The Official P-61 Group Build Thread

Just a little buh-bump-de-dump - y'know, in case people decide they actually want to build one of these 

-Fred

Gigatron wrote:

Nope, nothing for the canopy interior.  Just go to the hardware store and get lo-tac (low adhesive) blue painters tape and use it on the inside. I usually don't use anything.  I dip the thing in future before I paint.  If I get overspray on the inside, I just dip a q-tip in windex and rub off the excess overspray.  Then use a brush to reapply some future. Just be aware that the eduard masks aren't full masks on some of the windows.  Due to the curvature of the glass, it would be impossible to create a mask that wouldn't kink up.  So they give you the outeredges and then expect you to fill in the centers.  They say to use liquid latex, but just use tamiya masking tape - it's easier. As for the exterior PE, there are some parts you won't be using, if you follow your references correctly.  For instance, they give you PE to put the dive brakes in the open position.  If you're doing a static, landed display, the dive brakes wouldn't be deployed, so those are kind of wasted.  Just pay attention to your reference material and you'll do fine. -Fred

Good to know you're still with us, Randie   How's the new cave coming along; got it set up to your liking, yet?

Looking forward to the progress pics and if you need any second opinions on choppin' up the bird, you know where to find me

-Fred

Still with you, guys!! Just waiting on my Lone Star order.  Once it gets here I'll start all the necessary surgery and start taking pics!!

Nope, nothing for the canopy interior.  Just go to the hardware store and get lo-tac (low adhesive) blue painters tape and use it on the inside.

I usually don't use anything.  I dip the thing in future before I paint.  If I get overspray on the inside, I just dip a q-tip in windex and rub off the excess overspray.  Then use a brush to reapply some future.

Just be aware that the eduard masks aren't full masks on some of the windows.  Due to the curvature of the glass, it would be impossible to create a mask that wouldn't kink up.  So they give you the outeredges and then expect you to fill in the centers.  They say to use liquid latex, but just use tamiya masking tape - it's easier.

As for the exterior PE, there are some parts you won't be using, if you follow your references correctly.  For instance, they give you PE to put the dive brakes in the open position.  If you're doing a static, landed display, the dive brakes wouldn't be deployed, so those are kind of wasted.  Just pay attention to your reference material and you'll do fine.

-Fred

Gigatron wrote:

You mean you're looking to have the same setup on both sides, i.e. two full engines instead of the one full engine and 1 half engine they give you?  Sure, why not?  It'll take a little hacking, but if you put up some pics, I'm sure the two of us can figure something out. -Fred

Just a bump in case anyone actually starts to build one  

-Fred

You mean you're looking to have the same setup on both sides, i.e. two full engines instead of the one full engine and 1 half engine they give you?  Sure, why not?  It'll take a little hacking, but if you put up some pics, I'm sure the two of us can figure something out.

-Fred

Gigatron wrote:

Hey Ross, don't sweat it, Pangea didn't seperate in a day Sanderson, I would recommend using the verlinden, it gives so much more detail than the stock kit parts.  Just cut it flat behind the second row of pistons and glue it to the firewall.  If you go back a page or two in this thread, you'll see how I modified the boom to accept the Aires engine.  The same thing should work for the verlinden.. plane_nut, try spruebros.com.  I can't get to the site from work, so i can't check.  Worse case scenario, you have to order the parts seperately.  As far as I can tell, the early A had the same black and interior green scheme as the later A.  Cockpit views are few and far between of the early A and color pics are even more rare. -Fred

I wonder if this would work with an extra Monogram engine and boom? I have an incomplete kit and I think it may have the parts needed.

Let me know what you think. 

Hey Ross, don't sweat it, Pangea didn't seperate in a day

Sanderson, I would recommend using the verlinden, it gives so much more detail than the stock kit parts.  Just cut it flat behind the second row of pistons and glue it to the firewall.  If you go back a page or two in this thread, you'll see how I modified the boom to accept the Aires engine.  The same thing should work for the verlinden..

plane_nut, try spruebros.com.  I can't get to the site from work, so i can't check.  Worse case scenario, you have to order the parts seperately.  As far as I can tell, the early A had the same black and interior green scheme as the later A.  Cockpit views are few and far between of the early A and color pics are even more rare.

-Fred

Fred - I am using the Eduard interior set and the True Details wheel set.  I also have a Verlinden engine but I don't know if I am going to use it now.  I've also re-scribed the entire model, but I think that I made the panel lines too deep - I'll have to see how painting goes. 

I will work on the photography - I should probably read the instruction manual!  I'll play around and see if I can get some better shots. 

Steve

Gigatron wrote:

Thanks, Kenji There's no rush, we've got almost 2 full years before the build "ends". And you've only got to build one, look at Ross and Randie, they're building multiples of this monstrosity.  They need to get a move on -Fred

I am moving—just at geological speed. I'm hoping to get up to glacial speed as soon as I can get the molds made and cast the six crew members I need for the two builds. My old molds had died (and didn't work well, anyway), and my first attempt at new ones with a new mold rubber and different resins did not work well. Back to the old mold rubber, which is a PITA to work with, but produces better molds that last longer.

Lookin' forward to some pics of the new cave, Randie.  I hope it's everytrhing you've wanted.

Sanderson, what AM parts are you using?  As for the pictures, try standing back and zooming in.  Your camera is focusing further back in the room (your tv is in focus, but not the plane).  Or try using a maco function on the camera (sometimes denoted by a flower) for close-ups.

-Fred

Gigatron wrote:

Thanks, Kenji There's no rush, we've got almost 2 full years before the build "ends". And you've only got to build one, look at Ross and Randie, they're building multiples of this monstrosity.  They need to get a move on -Fred

And I just moved!!! I'm hoping to have the 'Cave' and work bench all set and ready to go tomorrow.

Then, Monday morning? Look out!! It's time to get serious!!! Plus I've got a 1/72 OV-10, CDF fire boss and a Candair CL-215 Super Scooper to start on for the Secret Santa group build!!! Whew!!! I'm gonna be busy!!!

Hey everyone!  I've finally gotten around to taking some pics of my progress.  I haven't done any new work on this project in a few months, but plan on getting back to it soon.  I apologize in advance for the poor picture quality.  Thanks!

Thanks, Kenji

There's no rush, we've got almost 2 full years before the build "ends".

And you've only got to build one, look at Ross and Randie, they're building multiples of this monstrosity.  They need to get a move on

-Fred

Thanks guys, here's a few more pics.  I posted them in the A/C forum, I should post them here if anyone needs any future reference

Enjoy,

Fred

Wow Fred she's a real beaut! And the plane is fabulous!

sf_plane_nut wrote:

wow...those suck...

Adjust your depth of field! 

Well gang, this is a day I never thought I'd see - the beast is finally fnished.  After months of "anything that can go wrong, will", she's finally together.

Here are the basics:

Revell 1/48

LoneStar Models resin cockpit and Radar operators section modified with Eduard PE details

Eduard's exterior PE details 

True Details resin wheels

QuickBoost resin top turret guns

AM Cowl with corrected open flaps

twin Aires resin P&W R2800 Double Wasp power plants

Aeromaster's Decals

Paint is PollyScale Tarnished Black with a mix of PS Satin and PS Flat finishes

Anyway, on to the pics

As soon as I figure out how to take decent pics of the interior, I'll post them up (though, maybe I should figure out how to take decent pictures of the exterior, too )

All comments and criticisms welcome.

Enjoy,

Fred

Hey gang,

just a little update pic, for those that haven't seen it in the A/C forum

Enjoy,

Fred

Triarius wrote:

sf_plane_nut wrote: you know what...i found it...doh!...right after i finally gave up and was doing something else...thanks for the offer...its nice to know help is out there... Young feller, there's a few things you need to know: It is a mistake to let any mechanical device know that you are in a hurry. It is a mistake to let any inanimate object know that you are looking for it. (As you just discovered.)  There is a species of gremlins that has a vicious, sneaky sense of humor. They never really steal anything, they just move it, and they are very fast. When you are looking for something you "mislaid" (except that you remember precisely where and when you had it last) they keep moving it until you give up (at which point they put it where you will trip over it); or they get bored (hardly ever happens in less than a day, at which point they put it back where you expected it to be); or you placate them in some way (involuntary but self-inflicted injury almost always works—falling off a ladder ricketty chair used as a ladder, tripping over something (your own feet works best) or banging your head on something, especially if it draws blood. The object of your search will then either fall down and hit you on the head, or you will land on it when you fall, inflicting further injury to you and possibly damaging the sought object. Occasionally, it gets so bad that the person pops an artery and dies. Invariably, the sought object is found in their hand.

Oh how true!!!!!