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M60 AVLB conversion Complete.

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  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Monday, February 18, 2019 5:51 PM

Hello Gino!

That machine is looking good! I like the extra detailing you did a lot. Good luck with your build and with the paint, looking forward to seeing more pictures here. Thanks for sharing and have a nice day!

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Tuesday, February 19, 2019 9:41 AM

Thanks Pawel.  It has been a fun build so far.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, February 19, 2019 4:45 PM

Very cool, like the idea of making the bridge workable.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Wednesday, February 20, 2019 6:48 AM

Thanks Gamera.  The bridge being movable does leave lots of options.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Thursday, March 14, 2019 5:09 PM

I finally got some paint on it.  It is depicting vehicle 14 from B Co, 10th Engineer BN, 3ID during the initial invasion of Iraq in March '03.  It is a PrePo stocks draw vehicle as part of 2 BDE.  I used the below picture of a USMC AVLB as a reference.  

I was able to find a few other pics of it that showed all the stenciling on the bridge.  I created all the decals in PowerPoint and printed them on my home printer using computer decal paper.

I painted it using Testors Model Master Modern Desert Sand (FS33722) in the small spray can.  It is a little more yellow than their Sand (FS33531) that I usually use.  It looks pretty good and should represent modern CARC Tan/Sand pretty well once weathered.

Here it is so far.

Here is the bridge with all its stenciling.

Next is the tracks and weathering it a bit.  Then I will add some gear to it and a couple of figures.  

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Thursday, March 14, 2019 9:27 PM

Nice, very nice. Weird that the lighting in the room where you photographed these latest images make the model look, primer gray.

 

 

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, March 14, 2019 11:25 PM

This is a stunner. Your decals look the part. You have done a very nice modification. I'm sure it will even be better after the weathering and figures.

Well Done...

Ben

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, March 15, 2019 11:31 AM

Nice! Looking forward to seeing her all together with the weathering worked in there. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Friday, March 15, 2019 7:21 PM

Thanks guys.  It has been fun so far.  Almost done.

SprueOne, it must be the colors on your screen.  It still looks sand on mine.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Friday, March 15, 2019 10:35 PM

HeavyArty

I was able to find a few other pics of it that showed all the stenciling on the bridge.  I created all the decals in PowerPoint and printed them on my home printer using computer decal paper.

Here is the bridge with all its stenciling.

 

Gino, you did an excellent job! I’m particularly impressed with the decals that you created on your computer. I received some Archer Fine Transfer decals for my project and in the box was advertising for Archer decal paper, is that the kind of paper you used? Do you print with an inkjet type of printer? Please post some details about your cool decal making process. Thanks

Harold

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Saturday, March 16, 2019 7:23 PM

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Sunday, March 17, 2019 12:39 AM

HeavyArty

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

 

Thank you for the information.

Harold

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Tuesday, March 19, 2019 11:59 PM

HeavyArty

Hi Harold,

Making your own decals isn't hard.  I don't use the Archer paper; I used Testors clear film paper this time' but have used others as well.  It is pretty much the same though.  As I said, I design the decals in PowerPoint.  Then I print a test page on regular paper to confirm size, font, etc.  I then cut a piece of decal paper slightly larger than the area of decals I want to print.  I use scotch clear tape to tape the piece of decal paper over the area I want to print on the test paper;  seal all edges so the print head doesn't catch the decal paper edge.  I then run the piece of paper through my inkjet printer (make sure the paper is compatible for your printer - they make inkjet and laserjet paper).  Once the decal paper is printed, let the ink fully dry for about an hour.  Once dry, spray the decal paper with clear topcoat (gloss or flat) to seal them; let this fully dry for an hour or two.  Once dry, carfully cut the scotch tape to release the decal paper from the larger sheet.  Then cut out each decal and apply like any other water-transfer decal.  Good luck.

 

Gino, what font did you use for your decals in PowerPoint? I can see your lettering on the AVLB is black; do you know how to print ‘white’ lettering?

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 8:55 AM

The font varies, depending on the size of the stencil.  I think the smallest is 2 or 3 font.  The "3ID 10E" is about 8 font.   White is a problem.  Unless you have a special printer, you can't do white easily.  Since home printers assume you are using white paper, they just leave white font as a blank area.  You can get white decal paper and print the surrounding area the color of your model to get white lettering, but it is hard to get the color to match perfectly.  For white stenciling, it is best to get AM decals for what you want.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 3:42 PM

HeavyArty

The font varies, depending on the size of the stencil.  I think the smallest is 2 or 3 font.  The "3ID 10E" is about 8 font.   White is a problem.  Unless you have a special printer, you can't do white easily.  Since home printers assume you are using white paper, they just leave white font as a blank area.  You can get white decal paper and print the surrounding area the color of your model to get white lettering, but it is hard to get the color to match perfectly.  For white stenciling, it is best to get AM decals for what you want.

 

Thanks Gino, I’ll check into AM decals. I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well because there is no way to hold the backing sheet still, or tape it down while making the transfer. I think a classic water slide decal would work better and allow me to move it into position before the decal dries.

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 3:51 PM

Hello!

It might be worth it here to draw up your own decal pattern on the computer and then try to find a company to print decals for you - I have done it severeal times now and I'm very happy with the results. Unfortunately I only know such companies in Poland and Germany - maybe with the exception of DRAW! decals (USA or Canada - I'm not sure) - but I don't know if he takes every custom order, but hedefinitely has a machine for printing decals and printing white letters is no problem for him.

Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Thursday, March 21, 2019 7:22 AM

Sergeant
 I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well ...

Yes, you can take a sheet of clear decal film and rub the Archer dry-transfers onto it.  It can then be applied as a water-slide decal.  It works just fine.  Archer actually includes a small sheet of wet-transfer paper in some of their newer sets with instructions on how to do it.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Thursday, March 21, 2019 10:34 AM
Okay, now do the AVLM. Seriously good job.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Thursday, March 21, 2019 11:45 AM

Thank Rob.  I hope to have some updated pics soon.  It is almost done.  I had thought about an AVLM too, but didn't want to spend the extra for either Hobby Fan MICLICs or those out of the Rye Field ABV kit.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    April 2016
  • From: N. Burbs of ChiKawgo
Posted by GlennH on Thursday, March 21, 2019 8:39 PM
Stencil decals really tip it in.

A number Army Viet Nam scans from hundreds yet to be done:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/southwestdreams/albums/72157621855914355

Have had the great fortune to be on every side of the howitzers.

  • Member since
    September 2018
  • From: Vancouver, Washington USA
Posted by Sergeant on Friday, March 22, 2019 1:35 PM

HeavyArty

 

 
Sergeant
 I have some Archer Fine Transfer decals that I understand can be used to make white water slide decals, but I’ve never tried that process. I like the Archer decal image quality, but there are places on my models that transfer decals just don’t work very well ...

 

Yes, you can take a sheet of clear decal film and rub the Archer dry-transfers onto it.  It can then be applied as a water-slide decal.  It works just fine.  Archer actually includes a small sheet of wet-transfer paper in some of their newer sets with instructions on how to do it.

 

Gino, I tried out the method using Bare Metal Foil‘s decal film and Archer Fine Transfer decals; it worked perfectly as you indicated it would, thank you. Your custom decals really make your model look realistic.

Harold

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Sunday, March 31, 2019 4:08 PM

I have finally finished it.

Firstly, I fixed the bridge where the angled section meets the flat section.  It was pointed out that the 70-ton bridge has a fixed pin at the top and a bolted plate at the bottom.  The 60-ton bridge in the kit has removable pins at both locations.  

I cut off the removable pins and modified both locations to match the above pic.

Now on to the completed build.  I weathered it with acrylic paint washes and some drybrushing of a sandy color.  

I added a bit of rust and bare metal to the foot that supports the bridge as well.

With the erector arm deployed.

The weathered bridge.

The whole enchilada...bridge mounted on the carrier.  This is one big model.

That is it, fine'.  I really enjoyed building this conversion and am very satisfied with the way it turned out.  It looks impressive sitting on my shelf as it dwarfs an Abrams.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 1, 2019 8:17 PM

She turned out great!!! Again it's always nice to see something a little different like this.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Tuesday, April 2, 2019 6:58 AM
Thanks Gamera. It was a fun build and I am happy how it came out.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Wednesday, April 3, 2019 5:29 PM

Very well done! I'm sitting here thinking about the actual size of the model, must be impressive as heck in the case (or shelf...).

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Wednesday, April 3, 2019 7:15 PM

Thanks RBear.  It is quite huge.  It dwarfs an Abrams and does look impressive on the shelf.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: https://app.photobucket.com/u/HeavyArty

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

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