1/16th Trumpeter T34/76 Update Pg3. Dec 2

No work as of late Toni, boxed up for a while, working on something this big takes time, and the second I feel like I'm going to rush or cut corners, I always put it away. Thats mainly for safety sake, I just don't want to destroy anything by being stupid.

I go back to it when I feel I can give it 100% concentration, no more no less.

Terry.

Thanks Graham, glad you like it. Toni, I've uploaded some pics of T34's to a photo bucket folder. Either Pm or e-mail me and I will send you the link. THanks capnjacksparo, wheres your T34/85 at the moment?

Hows your half track comming along, wheres this weekends progress?

Terry.

Ohh-Emm-Jee, Amazing! This is super cool! If any build right now deserves a this one does! (And I thought your Y-wing looked good...)

Alright, another round!

Hi Toni, I will be back on at the weekend, I use two broadband connections at home a 1mb, and a 3mb.

I do have about 100 or more photos that may be of use to you. I will either upload them in batches to you or create a new photo bucket account for you and let you work at them at your own leisure.

I will PM you saturday afternoon.

Terry.

Hi, Toni, to start the unit in the center of the floor is the PTO  (power-take-off) that scratchbuilt part is pretty accurate. Youu will have to copy an ammo bin for the floor. 

Now as for the batteries look at the with between the two suspensoin units, you will have to scratch those as well, and do them from tube, the swing arm for the suspension sit into them.

So that is the lenght of the batteries for a 76, through research we have come to the conclusion that theh batteries were "wet", each cell wrapped and joined in series. The height of the batteries should be below the radiator bracket, drop that a couple of mm so your radiators will fit.

The fuel cells are based on stuff from the now defunct tanxheaven, but have since been confirmed to be correct in T34 Mythical weapon. They were drawn in a cad programme and cut into laminates of plastic card on an engraving machine. Its been a few years since that programme was created.

I highly recommend you get intouch with treadwell, he has done a fantastic job on an engine mount and has done a drawing with measurements.

I trawled for a while and got you some links that might be of use to you,

http://images.google.ie/imgres?imgurl=http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1095/1005123281_2d706f2772.jpg%3Fv%3D0&imgrefurl=http://flickr.com/photos/dahlin/1005123281/&usg=__Ujc0OcQyJY_1pWaz9vHsJ5bPSDA=&h=500&w=335&sz=136&hl=en&start=7&sig2=g8MtPkisSP2pHEWuQNHZHw&tbnid=3sf6LO1Q0YwZJM:&tbnh=130&tbnw=87&ei=LillSc67Mom0jAeCuPnUCQ&prev=/images%3Fq%3DT34%2Binterior%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

http://images.google.ie/imgres?imgurl=http://photos.kitmaker.net/data/12349/thumbs/daz.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.armorama.com/modules.php%3Fop%3Dmodload%26name%3DSquawkBox%26file%3Dindex%26req%3Dviewtopic%26topic_id%3D128852%26page%3D1&usg=__pS543oIMO-BAZb0KVQSCR3uDHYY=&h=150&w=150&sz=5&hl=en&start=135&sig2=Qnjfb8K0049yNSO4Wrr1SQ&tbnid=Noi8DZ2zW4lNvM:&tbnh=96&tbnw=96&ei=eSplSfufGo-vjAeP-fnWCQ&prev=/images%3Fq%3DT34%2Binterior%26start%3D126%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN

http://images.google.ie/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b4/T-34-85_interior_Parola_Tank_Museum.jpg&imgrefurl=http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:T-34-85_interior_Parola_Tank_Museum.jpg&usg=__11bVb39o-yYj9KpHE8f0T4fksJ0=&h=768&w=1024&sz=295&hl=en&start=4&sig2=7erRtdW1vmqFkb857EhEPQ&tbnid=EhV2SPmx-rNmXM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150&ei=LillSc67Mom0jAeCuPnUCQ&prev=/images%3Fq%3DT34%2Binterior%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

With this kit, you need to scratch most of the missing parts, so the cost is minimal, so I cannot recommend T34 Mythical Weapon to you enough, its expensive but boy OH boy by the time you finish you will not regret the cost.

Terry.

Terry, I decided to give my love to the T-34 I'm going to build it right. So I am going to scratch build as much of the interior as I can, I was wondering though, How did you make the pattern on the fuel cells? do you have any reference photos or dimensions for the batteries you have made? and lastly, you told me I had to make a PTO for the turret, I'm not very familiar with tank terminology yet, could you explain what that is? I can't thank you enough.

Tony

Thanks Karl, Happy New Year to you my friend and all your family.I never got back to you with a 1/35th beside it for comparsion, I'm sorry for that but I put the kit away for a few weeks/months as ploughing into this and rushing would be criminal at this stage.

Lexesbenz, I was using an actual manual for a T34 which was published on the internet but can't find it. The book I'm using is the same as treadwell , T34 mythical weapon from airconnection in Canada, its about $130 Canadian, but worth every penny.

Happy New Year to all.

Terry.

Tues. Got home and was too tired to do any work, so I thought I'd post some progress.

Some weathering on a side panel. More to be done.

One of the scratchbuilt gate valves painted.

Exhausts almost done.

One of the chairs Bulked out with Gamesworkshop Putty.

Painted, I decided to add some tears and simulate some of the stuffing sticking out. Now I need  to see a shrink.

Oh, I used wire wool, stuffed into the gaps then trimmed.

Some more.

I know the seats look a bit red at the moment but I must now work out how they will look when installed, I mean from the point of view of how they will be seen through the hatch.

I will be doing a lot more on these but I just feel a bit tired at the moment. I'm going upstairs to watch "Family Guy".

Thanks for Looking.

Regards,

Terry.

Hey Terry,

   A fantastic build, both amazing and depressing to me, amazing in it's quality and depressing to know that my build will never compare favorably to it!

   I've just started working on this and my build will be straight OOB except for an aftermarket metal barrel. I've been having minor problems with painting. I use Tamiya primer and spray cans  and the plastic doesnt seem to agree with the tamiya acrylics, I'm having to use very light coats, anything heavier just causes bubbles on the surface of the part. I tried washing all the sprues in warm water and that helped somewhat but I'm debating on switching paint.

Cheers,

Steve

Awesome work for sure.. Can't wait to see more man..

KC

Wow. Like's been said, makes me feel like I should hang up my tools.......

Awesome work.

Hi Terry

The half track is on hold, there's severable builds going on now and I have to solve some problems with the build. I'll wait until they catch up.

Go to your other message /forums/1032822/ShowPost.aspx I'm not sure if I gave you this other site.

 Terry, This truly an engineering marvel of multimedia in modeling, speaking of engineering what firm are you the owner of, or are you just the head engineer? Your skills take modeling to the level of museum quality scratchbuilding. Lookout, if the "Smithsonian" sees this you may be asked to build one in 1/16th scale or is it 1/8th? Beautiful work Terry.

 I now consider myself an assembler of plastic parts, Disastermaster, move over I need some space under that rock you guys are under.

Hi, Dante, I forgot that in America the trade of fitter is probably known differently, I think in the states its known as a MILLWRIGHT. Basically its a qualification in the engineering trades for a person who will be able to make precision parts from scratch, from supplied drawings.

It involves turning, Milling, welding, grinding, pipe work and a couple of other things. I done that and plant maintenance. It is an engineering qualification.

I hope that clears it up a bit.

Hows the haalf track comming along?

Hope your keeping well.

Terry.

Hi Terry

Pardon my stupidity, what is a fitter.

Dan

Sorry about that the only part I meant to be taken seriously was the part where I am going to bury myself in the back yard as I cannot hope to compete with such fine work. I guess that part is even more justified now.

 BTW  your rust and corrosin are clearly from steel made from Iron ore from Norway as oppossed to From the Russian Urals. You can tell by the color of the oxidation. Work on it.

Cheers, Thanks, you got me there, Ya see I am in the engineering trades, fitter to be exact, I worked in the Glass industry for 17 years, and am all too aware of the consequences of the wrong lubrications being used. But I did notice that a new machine will look the same as a 30 year old machine after about 6 months in service.

I used the "ARTY FARTY" method of doing the stains but do know that a machine in service for 3 to 4 years will be in a state after the kind of running these got, and not to put too fine a point on it but the T34 was never built with engineering excellence in mind. I think the Q.C. guys only got a Crayon drawing of the shape of what a T34 was meant to look like.

I do remember Hilary Doyle telling me at one time that at the panther assembly plant 20 or so hulls were rejected because the red primer did not exactly match the swatch book.

I believe him because heis in posession of original paint cards.

Thanks again.

Must  go and do some painting on my tank. I'm gonna watch Blade2 as well.

Terry Burke.

 Uh that was kinda not a serious reply   You know all too well I am crazy about your work...... You know we Irish fellows gotta stick together!  I mean eyeballing oil weight at any scale? Im just a little nuts thats all.

I will say though in our deisal engines the bottom of the engine compartments were pretty nasty. Especially after a rain fall where the sludge would float on the trapped rain water. Unscrewing the drain plug was always one of those moments I will treasure.

sfcmac wrote:

Hope I am not being too critical but it is all too apparent that your oil stains are from a modern 5-40 Weight oil when they should be a russian 30 wt oil. The heavier weight oils were a no no in that they would make the engines more difficult to start in extreme cold. Probably need to work on that. Other than that it looks ok, I guess................

Thanks,  what exactly do you mean about the stains. I'm  intrigued, I have the ones that will be visible placed under the radiator, but would they be lighter or heavier. Please clarify and I will try to correct. Honestly I do appreciate this input.

Thank You "sfcmac".

Reagrds,

Terry Burke.

 Hope I am not being too critical but it is all too apparent that your oil stains are from a modern 5-40 Weight oil when they should be a russian 30 wt oil. The heavier weight oils were a no no in that they would make the engines more difficult to start in extreme cold. Probably need to work on that. Other than that it looks ok, I guess................

Geeze I am going out to the back yard and bury myself now! How do you compete with that?

You're getting some great reference picts but when do you start on the build??

Needless to say, outstanding work.

Nice to see you still slugging away on this one Terry, it's already a showstopper now and it's not anywhere near completion!