#3 DML Pzkpfw III Ausf N sPzAbt 501 Afrika (W.I.P.)

Excellent thanks loads Bill.

I will use Panzer Grey and Steel for the main gun breech unless I am way off. I will take a look on the forums and keep an eye out for examples still on a steep learning curve having fun!   

Build Update:

I took some time off from assembly to plan how to paint the turret interior due to the the fact that I want to model the turret doors open on both sides but I had not ideal how to paint an interior!

The great thing about the internet is that it has terrabytes of historical data which is a double edged sword.  I checked and rechecked data sources and finally decided to give it my best shot and interpation of an open hatched interior in Afrika and here is what I came up with.

Oh and I checked with Bill as well!

I approached painting and weathering the interior just like I learned to approach the exterior.  I used my AB to base coat the interior with Model Master Acryl Panzer Interior Buff after masking any areas that might end up with paint on the exterior.  I then then used Poly Scale Reefer Grey for paint chipping.

My next step was to use a Mig Production Brown for Desert Yellow Filter to provide tone and blend in paint chips.  I also added a light coating of Mig Pigment Gulf War Sand to blend everything together.  I was happy with the end result and it looks like my ideal of a well worn desert vehicle.  I also used Squadron's White Putty to add texture to the interior before I base coated it to simulate a rough trexture from multiple coats of primer and Dark Yello over Panzer Grey.

JEEZ you're a machine!  Good thing oyu weren't in charge of German production during he war

Looks good so far and no reason to thinkthat should change  As for the magnifier, my choice is the Optivisor.  More mobile... can llok left and right easier.  Plus I set it a little high so it is easy to look under it for a normal view.  And for light, there is an LED light that attaches to the front of the lenses.  I don't have it... but I do want it.

Edmund,

Looks like a well-used interior for sure! The only suggestion I would have is that the spent shell basket was canvas and not metal so there wouldn't be any chipping there. Chipping around the top metal frame yes, but the basket itself wouldn't have been chipped since it's cloth.

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Looks like a well-used interior for sure! The only suggestion I would have is that the spent shell basket was canvas and not metal so there wouldn't be any chipping there. Chipping around the top metal frame yes, but the basekt itself wouldn't have been chipped since it's cloth.

I must of searched a hundred times on what materials and colors the shell basket should be!

Oh well it is easy to get to and I have some new Vallejo Khaki and other sand colors that I had ordered to use on the sand bags I have planned.  I will make the changes.  If it was made of metal I made it look cool!

Thanks for keeping it real Bill!

wing_nut wrote:

JEEZ you're a machine!  Good thing oyu weren't in charge of German production during he war Looks good so far and no reason to thinkthat should change  As for the magnifier, my choice is the Optivisor.  More mobile... can llok left and right easier.  Plus I set it a little high so it is easy to look under it for a normal view.  And for light, there is an LED light that attaches to the front of the lenses.  I don't have it... but I do want it.

This one has actually been pretty slow Marc compared to my second one.  I hate it when you have to be a grown-up, a father, a husband and make a living all beween builds...

I took a look at your web site and build logs today and I was very impressed!   I really like the PZ.IV G with winter wash.  I have heard people talk about the hair spray method and I read your log but I still have a lot of questions about it. It sound slike some people swear by it and others are really opposed to it.  Is there an end to end tutorial that you might point me to?

Build Update:

I completed the majority of the assembly today and was able to basecoat and add some highlights.

I was impressed with the Model Master Acryl Armor Sand and can't wait to see it after the filtter, wash, oil paint fading and pigments.

Here are few pics of it in it's grey plastic glory!

After basecoating and color modulation lightened with MM Light Grey.

wbill76 wrote:

Coming along nicely Edmund! It would appear that your headlights are in danger of becoming disconnected though...as the pics progressed first one and then the other went out of alignment. DML designed these to have fragile attachment points so you might want to recheck them so you don't inadvertently lose one along the way.

Thanks Bill yours too. It looks like we both had a long day modeling today. 

I still don't how you pick out the details so quickly and accurately.

I will re-attach the healdlights first thing.

I do appreciate your thoughful constructive comments. 

Regards,

Hi Schnobs.

This is a very nice build.  I really like the beating you gave the interior, it looks very random and not at all..."planned".  Sometimes I see chipping and wear and it looks contrived, yours simply looks lived in, I guess there's an art to it, yours looks great.  Can't wait to see what you do with that basecoat, please keep us posted.

Bill

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Hi Schnobs. This is a very nice build.  I really like the beating you gave the interior, it looks very random and not at all..."planned".  Sometimes I see chipping and wear and it looks contrived, yours simply looks lived in, I guess there's an art to it, yours looks great.  Can't wait to see what you do with that basecoat, please keep us posted. Bill

Thanks Bill I enjoyed the heck out of painting and weathering the interior.  If has fired me up for getting a a AM interior for my my next build.

Here is a few pics of what I was able to get done this evening.  I was able to mount one door one each side of the turret because I will have to spray future and decal before I mount the other doors on each side.  I also painted and mounted extra wheels and painted the leather pads on the cupola doors.

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Hi Schnobs. This is a very nice build.  I really like the beating you gave the interior, it looks very random and not at all..."planned".  Sometimes I see chipping and wear and it looks contrived, yours simply looks lived in, I guess there's an art to it, yours looks great.  Can't wait to see what you do with that basecoat, please keep us posted. Bill

Thanks Jim!

You have been very kind to me in all my postings and it's appreciated.  Your encouragement and support in fact everyone's has helped me continue to strive to improve. 

I just sprayed a coat of Future an hour ago and I went a lot lighter in the coat this time so I will not have to wait 24 hours.  I am also going to try something different and not seal with the second coat of Future.  After applying decals later today I will seal with Model Master Flat Clear Acryl as the sealer coat.  I have also hear of people mixing future and a flat clear but I am going to try to seal the decals with just a flat clear.

It's not an original ideal Karl suggested it and I tend to agree if I can reduce one extra coat I will have more detail to work with.  I have nothing to lose except many hours of hard work! 

I will post later today with the results.

Cheers!

Build Update:

This weekend ended up being very productive.  I wanted to try a variation on the Future application and I only sprayed two very light coats more like a misting and then waited about three hours before applying decals.  The first time I sprayed future I went really heavy on the coat and waited 24 hours.

I then applied some Micro Set on the areas of the model I was putting the first decal and used warm distilled water to prep.  I really had a blast with the little tiger decals.  I applied more Micro Set on the surface of the decal and then used a dry cloth to firmly blot dry.

I then waited approximately three hours before I applied two light coats of MM Flat Clear Acryl to seal the decals instead of a second coat of Future.  My hope is that this will provide enough proctection for the decals during the weathering process.  While I was waiting I finished the other two doors and fixed them in place. I really like the final look even though it hides the turret decals a little but it definately adds character. 

My next step is to start adding all the tools and details but I might put a light Brown wash filter first because it is begging to be weathered.  I hear it right now behind me whispering I am too clean! 

I hope everyone had a great weekend!  I need to slow down now because I do not want to rush this and I want to be subtle about the weathering and learn a few more techniques as well.

Cheers!

    Those decals look perfect and the color is just right in my eyes.

Tony the Mutt

Thanks Tony & Bill!

I had fun with the decals and I like how the color modulation worked out.  Bill I was spot on on the highlighting free handed.  I do believe I am ready for a Camouflage paint job! I

I want my weathering to be more subdued this go round which is the challenge and only be slowing down and thinking things through will that occur.

Thanks Jim I really enjoyed the decals and am getting more confident with them. 

I ordered some Mig Productions Dry Transfers to try as well.

Build Update:

I carefully started weathering tonight and applied two types of filters.  The first filter I used was a simple Oil wash using 592 Abteilung Oil paint with Oderless Minerals spirits.  The mix was about 10\90.

The effect was very subtle and I dried each area of the turret with a hair dryer to avoid tide marks.  I then applied a very light coat of Sin Filter Brown For Desert Yellow which is the lightest colored filter I could get.  The effect was just a little more noticeable.

The directions for the the Sin Filter states to wait two hours betwen coats so I  will allow it to dry overnight before I apply another Sin Filter Grey for Dark Yellow.

Here is how it looks so far:

wbill76 wrote:

Coming along nicely Edmund! Out of curiosity, what effect are you looking for in applying the second filter of Grey?

Hey Bill,

I have read a number of sources that recommend using varied tones of Filters especially on different components of the vehicle to add realism and variety.  I am not sure if I am going to do that now.  Here is where I am at a crossroads.  To cool my weathering jets last night so I would not get too dramatic or dark on the filters I detailed the wood frame for the jerry cranes with a Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan followed by a number of brown oil washes.  I really enjoy handbrushing with Vellejo model colors they go on like a dream. I also painted the frames a blend of light and dark rust oil pigments.  I really liked how it turned out and will post pictures later today.

I plan to use the oil dot filtering method which will also darken the tone and potentailly negate the filter.  I can always add a darker Filter if the dot filter application does not result in the darker color I am looking for.  Getting darker is easily accomplished as opposed to getting lighter!

I want to stay subtle but the Force is strong in this one!

Edmund,

I was curious as to where you were headed with it by "stacking" filters. Not saying you shouldn't do it, just wanted to get a feel for what the end result you were angling for was. You're right about going dark...very easy to do, much harder to bring it back if you go too far.

Build Update:

As promised here are a few pictures of the detailed the wood frame for the jerry cans:

I used a Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan followed by a number of brown oil washes.  I also painted the frames a blend of light and dark rust oil pigments followed by a light dusting of Light Rust and Standard Rust Mig pigments.

I assembled half of the Jerry Cans last night.  I do not think I will be using all these for this build but I might as well get tham all done at the same time.  I am looking forward to painting them.

plastickjunkie wrote:

That's coming along great. I like that jerry can rack. Are you going to try the 'salt' method for the chipping efffect on the cans?

Thanks Plasticjunkie & Jim for the kind words I am glad you like it is was fun doing and I plan to darken the rust on the support struts but it's going great. 

I thought the Jerry cans would be an excellent opportunity for me to try the "salt" method for chipping but I have a few questions I have not been able to get answered yet via my research and here they are:

1. Is regular salt going to be in 1/35th scale for chipping Jery cans?
2. I plan to paint both dunklegelb and Panzer Grey Jerry cans and I will use Panzer Grey for the base coat of the Dunklegelb but not sure what to use as a basecoat for Panzer Grey?  
3. I could just basecoat it a dark rust?
4. Would a chemical masking agent be more approropriate?

Schnobs

I would use the drk grey as a base coat for the yello cans and a dark steel for the grey cans. How I use the salt is I put some in a small container mixed with a couple of water drops, then with a small brush dab on the salt in the desired effect. Let dry and airbrush with choice of color. Let dry and gently wipe with your fingers or a soft cloth. It really looks like real chipping. Just go easy with the dabbing, less is more.

plastickjunkie wrote:

Schnobs I would use the drk grey as a base coat for the yello cans and a dark steel for the grey cans. How I use the salt is I put some in a small container mixed with a couple of water drops, then with a small brush dab on the salt in the desired effect. Let dry and airbrush with choice of color. Let dry and gently wipe with your fingers or a soft cloth. It really looks like real chipping. Just go easy with the dabbing, less is more.

Thanks for the mini-tutorial and base coat suggestions Plasticjunkie.  I have read about this method and was curious to try it so I am finishing up all the tow ropes, pioneer tools, and jerry cans this weekend so I will post the results.  I am also gong to use the salt chipping method on the jack which I will base coat Dark Grey. 

Thanks again for your helpful comments!