#3 DML Pzkpfw III Ausf N sPzAbt 501 Afrika (W.I.P.)

Build Update:

I applied the last filter which was a darker brown and finished painting and weathering the tow cables. Here are a few pics:

Next steps will be finish detailing pioneer tools and accessories and mount as I complete each one.

The salt chipping experiement of 09 commences tomorrow!

Schnobs, that looks really nice.

But you're making me nervous--that salt method has the potential to ruin a model; be careful. YOu can get a lot of frosting from residual salt left behind. 

Why not try the hairspray method? That's versatile, far easier in my opinion, and of you look at the thread "WIP-Knocked out Porshe King Tiger" by maveric1 here, you can see some of the possibilities of that method? 

I myself have used it on a KT and on my "Rust Bunnies" car to really make it look old and abused!

Cool looking tank.... I hope the salt weathering go's well for you.

Nice build.

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, that looks really nice. But you're making me nervous--that salt method has the potential to ruin a model; be careful. YOu can get a lot of frosting from residual salt left behind.  Why not try the hairspray method? That's versatile, far easier in my opinion, and of you look at the thread "WIP-Knocked out Porshe King Tiger" by maveric1 here, you can see some of the possibilities of that method?  I myself have used it on a KT and on my "Rust Bunnies" car to really make it look old and abused!

Thanks Karl I was wondering when you might swing by for a look. 

I am trying to slow down on this one and actually plan out each weathering step as oppossed to the last one whch was a couple wild nights of being a mad scientist! 

I have no intention of using the "salt chipping" method on the vehcicle itself.  Excuse me if I was not clear.  I have a number of extra Jerry cans and an extra jack that I am going to exeriment with.  I also have four german helmets I want to try as well. Speaking of that In the Mig Jimenez F.A.Q. book he mentions using a Tamiya water mark on the helmets?  What the H. E. Double Hockey Sticks is that?

I could experiment with both methods at the same time.  Do you a cool tutorial other than the other link you alredy mentioned that demos the "Hairspray" method the most accurately?

One other question hey you started it!!

What is the best method to darken rust?  I am using as you know Mig Dark and light rust pigments and I have also used the Pigment fixer preceded and followed by Abteiung Dark rust oil washes but I want a darker more muted look.  I think the support strusts on the jerry can rack are still to bright.

Thanks again as always for the gentle and somtimes not so gentle nudges and shoves towards excellence!!

Edmund,

Can definitely see the benefits of your "slower" approach taking shape...you're getting sound advice and making good progress, looking forward to the next update!

Given the mediums that you work with, I'd say the hairspray method is your better bet for something small like the jerry cans. The salt method tends to work better (such as I've seen, never tried it myself) on larger surfaces due to the size of the salt grains. That's assuming of course you really want to abuse them...if you're just looking to show wear from handling and use, dry-brushing or stippling might give you more control in the end for that type of effect. Once the cans are installed in the rack you aren't going to see very much of them except the fronts and tops. The only ones that will show more than that will be the ones on either ends...just a thought.

Thanks Stick Man and Marc for the kind words, and rest assured I wil not be using the salt method on the the vehicle itself just the jerry cans and the jack as a test.  After I finish mounting the accessories and pioneer tools I will be applying a wash brown and black pin wash before I start some dot oil fading.

I took a couple shots in some natural light that we had today which is quite rare in Seattle!   so I can track the color change and affects of weathering.

That's really good looking, Edmund.  I like the way you were able to keep the monotone schem interesting without going overboard.

Nice work, can't wait for the final pictures.

Slow and steady works well, doesn't it?  I find myself planning weathering more carefully simply because my time to build is so limited, it takes me forever to finish up a build, it's sure not hampering your results here.

Bill    

Lets see, Schnobs...not sure what a "Tamiya watermark" is? Maybe he means a Tamiya decal of the two decals that were normally on German helmets? I know Tamiya has some of them i early figure kits? I think that's a "European" way of saying "decal"?

You should pick up a back issue of December 2008 Finescale Modeler where the article of my 56 Chevy Nomad is in; there's afull description of the method I used in there. It's weird; they have the "subscriber extra--gallery" of this build online, but not the actual method I used to do it. 

As far as darkenig rust, I would personally just use a wash. Either that, or more darker pigments

I'm looking forward to seeing this one put to the ropes and weathered up!

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Can definitely see the benefits of your "slower" approach taking shape...you're getting sound advice and making good progress, looking forward to the next update! Given the mediums that you work with, I'd say the hairspray method is your better bet for something small like the jerry cans. The salt method tends to work better (such as I've seen, never tried it myself) on larger surfaces due to the size of the salt grains. That's assuming of course you really want to abuse them...if you're just looking to show wear from handling and use, dry-brushing or stippling might give you more control in the end for that type of effect. Once the cans are installed in the rack you aren't going to see very much of them except the fronts and tops. The only ones that will show more than that will be the ones on either ends...just a thought.

Hey Bill,

Yes you are right the effect will be hidden by the other cans so maybe I will just wait on the salt effect or try just one or two for fun and expereince.  Slow and steady is hard!

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

That's really good looking, Edmund.  I like the way you were able to keep the monotone schem interesting without going overboard. Nice work, can't wait for the final pictures. Slow and steady works well, doesn't it?  I find myself planning weathering more carefully simply because my time to build is so limited, it takes me forever to finish up a build, it's sure not hampering your results here. Bill

Thanks for the support Bill,

I am following a plan on this one and so far it has paid off.

the doog wrote:

Lets see, Schnobs...not sure what a "Tamiya watermark" is? Maybe he means a Tamiya decal of the two decals that were normally on German helmets? I know Tamiya has some of them i early figure kits? I think that's a "European" way of saying "decal"? You should pick up a back issue of December 2008 Finescale Modeler where the article of my 56 Chevy Nomad is in; there's afull description of the method I used in there. It's weird; they have the "subscriber extra--gallery" of this build online, but not the actual method I used to do it.  As far as darkenig rust, I would personally just use a wash. Either that, or more darker pigments I'm looking forward to seeing this one put to the ropes and weathered up!

Hey Karl,

According to the F.A.Q. book it states the following in the how to paint a helmet section:

Paint the base color with acrylics, using either a paintbrush or airbrush.  Apply a dark brown wash and allow it to dry.  Finally, apply a buff-colored Tamiya water mark letting it accumulate in the more horizontal areas.  It looks like a bugg colored wash with maybe a little gloss.  i do not see any decals but I cannot see both sides of the helmets so it doesn't mean there not there.

I will get that back issue.  I love to rust stuff gosh dogitt! 

I thought that I would use a pin wash made of brown wash and black oil pigments and would hit the struts then that that should do the trick.

Thanks for getting back with the info.

Hi Wayne,

I have placed a call to Homeland Security reporting your attempt to hijack this thread but I think the number was disconnected due to the fact that Government stopped paying their phone bills because they gave all their money to AIG! 

No worries if I had the answer I would provide it!

model maniac 96 wrote:

wow......well, I suppose that I can't say anything I have not said before, but still, great job man. Jim

Thanks Buddy.  Here is a build update from today:

I wanted to tone down the rust on the struts and finish detailing pioneer tools and get most of them mounted.  I also wanted to paint the antenna tray that had a nice wood grain to it to match the jerry can rack.  Here is how it turned out:

Build Update:

I was able to finish detailing and mounting the remainder of the pioneer tools.  I also applied a pin wash and dark brown wash to the entire vehicle before I detailed the tracks I wanted to mount on the hull front, glacis and additional space armor.  I had to make a mounting bracket for the small track run on the space armor which was fun.  I just bent some extra PE I had left over nothing really earth shattering but new to me. 

Here is where I am at the moment on weathering and have some oil fading, chipping and pigment fading still planned.  Please provide feedback as I go forward so I do not overdo or over state the weathering.  I am forcing myslef to slow down and think through each step as I proceed.

Schnobs,

It's a little hard to make out the tinting of the paint in your photos because of the shadows--can you photograph your model outside in natural light, perhaps? That's really the best way to get a good look at the true color of your finish. It would be better to see what you've got going on in terms of the true finish.

As far as what I can see here, it looks like everything is going proceeding to plan? I can't see anything that jumps out at me worth critiquing?

The top-down look really shows off the detail work Edmund, making good progress.

It looks very good I hope all your weathering works out well!

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, It's a little hard to make out the tinting of the paint in your photos because of the shadows--can you photograph your model outside in natural light, perhaps? That's really the best way to get a good look at the true color of your finish. It would be better to see what you've got going on in terms of the true finish. As far as what I can see here, it looks like everything is going proceeding to plan? I can't see anything that jumps out at me worth critiquing?

Karl,

I absolutely agree that pictures in natural light would show the true nature of the paint and weathering effects but I live in the convergence zone in Seattle!!  I laughed when I read it because to heck with the model I would love some natural light!  We have approximately 265 days of out of the year that it is cloudy and rainy and at my house because of the convergence zone it rains east to west and then an hour later west to east!

I also have an hour commute to and from campus so I do not see my house in the daylight except for weekends except for a few months in the summer.  It is a challenge painting and weathering and I look forward to days that the sun shines through the clouds and into my garage!  I use a combination of Sylvania daylight florescents and one 100 watt and one 60 watt incandescent GE Reveal lightbulbs in swingout lamps.

Any suggestions on how to improve the lighting for painting and taking digital pictures would be appreciated other than moving.    Do you use a dedicated photo booth?  I see some posts were people obviously do I need to do some research about that because I am enjoying taking the pictures as much as everything else.

Anytime you and Bill do not find something to critique is a good nights work!  My plan is to walk through as many weathering techniques as I can without forgetting less is more. 

I will try to get some outside natural light shots if possible later this week or weekend.

Thanks again Karl,

wbill76 wrote:

The top-down look really shows off the detail work Edmund, making good progress.

Thanks Bill and also thanks for your tip about calling out the wrong part number in the DML instructions for assembling the jack in your build log that saved me some time. 

stick man wrote:

It looks very good I hope all your weathering works out well!

Thanks Orion!

Schnobs,

UGh! I sympathize with you, buddy! I remember playin in Seattle, and it rained, rained, rained, the two days we were there. People said it was "normal". I remember thinking I would kill myself if I lived there with the gloom and gray! No wonder "grunge" came from Seattle, lol!

I have a big ol' picture window behind my modeling desk, so I usually getgreat daylight photos. The only other thing I do at night is use my normal flourescent desk lamp with a flash to avoid as many shadows as I can. I don't have a photo booth--no room for one anywhere.

If you have the flourescent lamps, I would say to try possible not using ALL those lights you have, and tryjust the flourescent lights with your camera's flash? Maybe you have too much light hitting the model and causing all those shadows?

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, UGh! I sympathize with you, buddy! I remember playin in Seattle, and it rained, rained, rained, the two days we were there. People said it was "normal". I remember thinking I would kill myself if I lived there with the gloom and gray! No wonder "grunge" came from Seattle, lol!

I moved out to Seattle from North Dakota on Jan 3rd 1996.  Like most bad decisions it involved a woman.  In North Dakota unless it is actually raining or snowing and often at the same time the sun is shining.  When I first moved here everyone kept on asking me if I had seen the mountain yet and I had moved out here with my girlfried and was very busy looking for employment and had a strong suspicion that everyone out here was lazy. 

The first sunny day I saw Mount Raineer in it's full glory through my windshield I almost hit a parked car!  Interesting enough Seattle sells more Sun Glasses than any other metropolitan city of comparable size and we have actually have sun slow downs during out commutes! Don't ask!

I am way So I will try your ideal of turning off extra lamps and just use florescent lighting for pics on the 265 days a year I have no natural light.  Hey BTW what instrument do you play?  I would assume the guitar. 

agentg wrote:

This is looking really really good Schnobs. I love all things DAK, musta been reincarnated LOL, and cannot get enough of Afrika armor. Did the rack come with the kit or did you make it? If you made it share the wealth, I'll be putting those on every build LOL

Hey Wayne,

Thanks man I really like Afrika armor as well and the only reason I purchased this kit was because of the Jerry can rack.  It's a long story but I ended up with two identical kits so I want to reverse engineer the extra rack I have and scratch build some.  I will definately share that info as I go forward.

I love the music here as well, but not the rain I just endure that.

The reason natural light works so great is that it's diffused...and the easiest way to get that indoors is with nice even lighting. Here's a link I always point people too, easy way to get yourself a very simple photo booth setup without spending a fortune or needing a lot of space. You'll be amazed at what such a simple little thing can do for your photos.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html

wbill76 wrote:

The reason natural light works so great is that it's diffused...and the easiest way to get that indoors is with nice even lighting. Here's a link I always point people too, easy way to get yourself a very simple photo booth setup without spending a fortune or needing a lot of space. You'll be amazed at what such a simple little thing can do for your photos. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html

Excellent link Bill!  You must of read my mind in between meetings today I was doing granular web searches for digital photograph booths.  I had turned of my search filters on my work machine so I was a little suprized at some of the search results.

I am going to get right on building this week and I am going to officially name it the Plunkinator and every future build log will reference it as the final stage of the build. 

Pictures coming but I wonder if I should make a Grand Daddy Punkinator to take pictures of the Plunkinator?   hmmmmm....

Schnobs wrote:

I would assume the guitar.

Edmund,

I can only claim credit for saving that link that someone else posted somewhere else (can't even remember where!) and I put in my Favorites. In an online community, the photos are the model so getting good photos is something that takes on more importance IMHO. You don't have to spend a fortune though with solutions like this but can still get good/great pics in the process. The idea of their being Plunkinators running around in posts gave me a smile though!

Introducing the Plunkinator!

I went to Office Staples and Target and the total cash outlay including two lamps, a tripod, two natural light 26 watt Flouresent bulbs, a pad of tracing paper, and a white poster board was $45.00.

I spent about an hour making it and then another hour testing different angles and lighting and here are the results:

Thanks again Bill for doing what you do so well and naturally which is to freely pass on your knowledge and experience. It has made my enjoyment of this hobby so much more richer.

Now guys what do you think of my weathering so far and what should I do next?

Cheers!