#3 DML Pzkpfw III Ausf N sPzAbt 501 Afrika (W.I.P.)

Hi Wayne,

I have placed a call to Homeland Security reporting your attempt to hijack this thread but I think the number was disconnected due to the fact that Government stopped paying their phone bills because they gave all their money to AIG! 

No worries if I had the answer I would provide it!

the doog wrote:

Lets see, Schnobs...not sure what a "Tamiya watermark" is? Maybe he means a Tamiya decal of the two decals that were normally on German helmets? I know Tamiya has some of them i early figure kits? I think that's a "European" way of saying "decal"? You should pick up a back issue of December 2008 Finescale Modeler where the article of my 56 Chevy Nomad is in; there's afull description of the method I used in there. It's weird; they have the "subscriber extra--gallery" of this build online, but not the actual method I used to do it.  As far as darkenig rust, I would personally just use a wash. Either that, or more darker pigments I'm looking forward to seeing this one put to the ropes and weathered up!

Hey Karl,

According to the F.A.Q. book it states the following in the how to paint a helmet section:

Paint the base color with acrylics, using either a paintbrush or airbrush.  Apply a dark brown wash and allow it to dry.  Finally, apply a buff-colored Tamiya water mark letting it accumulate in the more horizontal areas.  It looks like a bugg colored wash with maybe a little gloss.  i do not see any decals but I cannot see both sides of the helmets so it doesn't mean there not there.

I will get that back issue.  I love to rust stuff gosh dogitt! 

I thought that I would use a pin wash made of brown wash and black oil pigments and would hit the struts then that that should do the trick.

Thanks for getting back with the info.

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

That's really good looking, Edmund.  I like the way you were able to keep the monotone schem interesting without going overboard. Nice work, can't wait for the final pictures. Slow and steady works well, doesn't it?  I find myself planning weathering more carefully simply because my time to build is so limited, it takes me forever to finish up a build, it's sure not hampering your results here. Bill

Thanks for the support Bill,

I am following a plan on this one and so far it has paid off.

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Can definitely see the benefits of your "slower" approach taking shape...you're getting sound advice and making good progress, looking forward to the next update! Given the mediums that you work with, I'd say the hairspray method is your better bet for something small like the jerry cans. The salt method tends to work better (such as I've seen, never tried it myself) on larger surfaces due to the size of the salt grains. That's assuming of course you really want to abuse them...if you're just looking to show wear from handling and use, dry-brushing or stippling might give you more control in the end for that type of effect. Once the cans are installed in the rack you aren't going to see very much of them except the fronts and tops. The only ones that will show more than that will be the ones on either ends...just a thought.

Hey Bill,

Yes you are right the effect will be hidden by the other cans so maybe I will just wait on the salt effect or try just one or two for fun and expereince.  Slow and steady is hard!

Lets see, Schnobs...not sure what a "Tamiya watermark" is? Maybe he means a Tamiya decal of the two decals that were normally on German helmets? I know Tamiya has some of them i early figure kits? I think that's a "European" way of saying "decal"?

You should pick up a back issue of December 2008 Finescale Modeler where the article of my 56 Chevy Nomad is in; there's afull description of the method I used in there. It's weird; they have the "subscriber extra--gallery" of this build online, but not the actual method I used to do it. 

As far as darkenig rust, I would personally just use a wash. Either that, or more darker pigments

I'm looking forward to seeing this one put to the ropes and weathered up!

That's really good looking, Edmund.  I like the way you were able to keep the monotone schem interesting without going overboard.

Nice work, can't wait for the final pictures.

Slow and steady works well, doesn't it?  I find myself planning weathering more carefully simply because my time to build is so limited, it takes me forever to finish up a build, it's sure not hampering your results here.

Bill    

Thanks Stick Man and Marc for the kind words, and rest assured I wil not be using the salt method on the the vehicle itself just the jerry cans and the jack as a test.  After I finish mounting the accessories and pioneer tools I will be applying a wash brown and black pin wash before I start some dot oil fading.

I took a couple shots in some natural light that we had today which is quite rare in Seattle!   so I can track the color change and affects of weathering.

Edmund,

Can definitely see the benefits of your "slower" approach taking shape...you're getting sound advice and making good progress, looking forward to the next update!

Given the mediums that you work with, I'd say the hairspray method is your better bet for something small like the jerry cans. The salt method tends to work better (such as I've seen, never tried it myself) on larger surfaces due to the size of the salt grains. That's assuming of course you really want to abuse them...if you're just looking to show wear from handling and use, dry-brushing or stippling might give you more control in the end for that type of effect. Once the cans are installed in the rack you aren't going to see very much of them except the fronts and tops. The only ones that will show more than that will be the ones on either ends...just a thought.

the doog wrote:

Schnobs, that looks really nice. But you're making me nervous--that salt method has the potential to ruin a model; be careful. YOu can get a lot of frosting from residual salt left behind.  Why not try the hairspray method? That's versatile, far easier in my opinion, and of you look at the thread "WIP-Knocked out Porshe King Tiger" by maveric1 here, you can see some of the possibilities of that method?  I myself have used it on a KT and on my "Rust Bunnies" car to really make it look old and abused!

Thanks Karl I was wondering when you might swing by for a look. 

I am trying to slow down on this one and actually plan out each weathering step as oppossed to the last one whch was a couple wild nights of being a mad scientist! 

I have no intention of using the "salt chipping" method on the vehcicle itself.  Excuse me if I was not clear.  I have a number of extra Jerry cans and an extra jack that I am going to exeriment with.  I also have four german helmets I want to try as well. Speaking of that In the Mig Jimenez F.A.Q. book he mentions using a Tamiya water mark on the helmets?  What the H. E. Double Hockey Sticks is that?

I could experiment with both methods at the same time.  Do you a cool tutorial other than the other link you alredy mentioned that demos the "Hairspray" method the most accurately?

One other question hey you started it!!

What is the best method to darken rust?  I am using as you know Mig Dark and light rust pigments and I have also used the Pigment fixer preceded and followed by Abteiung Dark rust oil washes but I want a darker more muted look.  I think the support strusts on the jerry can rack are still to bright.

Thanks again as always for the gentle and somtimes not so gentle nudges and shoves towards excellence!!

Cool looking tank.... I hope the salt weathering go's well for you.

Nice build.

Schnobs, that looks really nice.

But you're making me nervous--that salt method has the potential to ruin a model; be careful. YOu can get a lot of frosting from residual salt left behind. 

Why not try the hairspray method? That's versatile, far easier in my opinion, and of you look at the thread "WIP-Knocked out Porshe King Tiger" by maveric1 here, you can see some of the possibilities of that method? 

I myself have used it on a KT and on my "Rust Bunnies" car to really make it look old and abused!

Build Update:

I applied the last filter which was a darker brown and finished painting and weathering the tow cables. Here are a few pics:

Next steps will be finish detailing pioneer tools and accessories and mount as I complete each one.

The salt chipping experiement of 09 commences tomorrow!

plastickjunkie wrote:

Schnobs I would use the drk grey as a base coat for the yello cans and a dark steel for the grey cans. How I use the salt is I put some in a small container mixed with a couple of water drops, then with a small brush dab on the salt in the desired effect. Let dry and airbrush with choice of color. Let dry and gently wipe with your fingers or a soft cloth. It really looks like real chipping. Just go easy with the dabbing, less is more.

Thanks for the mini-tutorial and base coat suggestions Plasticjunkie.  I have read about this method and was curious to try it so I am finishing up all the tow ropes, pioneer tools, and jerry cans this weekend so I will post the results.  I am also gong to use the salt chipping method on the jack which I will base coat Dark Grey. 

Thanks again for your helpful comments!

Schnobs

I would use the drk grey as a base coat for the yello cans and a dark steel for the grey cans. How I use the salt is I put some in a small container mixed with a couple of water drops, then with a small brush dab on the salt in the desired effect. Let dry and airbrush with choice of color. Let dry and gently wipe with your fingers or a soft cloth. It really looks like real chipping. Just go easy with the dabbing, less is more.

plastickjunkie wrote:

That's coming along great. I like that jerry can rack. Are you going to try the 'salt' method for the chipping efffect on the cans?

Thanks Plasticjunkie & Jim for the kind words I am glad you like it is was fun doing and I plan to darken the rust on the support struts but it's going great. 

I thought the Jerry cans would be an excellent opportunity for me to try the "salt" method for chipping but I have a few questions I have not been able to get answered yet via my research and here they are:

1. Is regular salt going to be in 1/35th scale for chipping Jery cans?
2. I plan to paint both dunklegelb and Panzer Grey Jerry cans and I will use Panzer Grey for the base coat of the Dunklegelb but not sure what to use as a basecoat for Panzer Grey?  
3. I could just basecoat it a dark rust?
4. Would a chemical masking agent be more approropriate?

Build Update:

As promised here are a few pictures of the detailed the wood frame for the jerry cans:

I used a Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan followed by a number of brown oil washes.  I also painted the frames a blend of light and dark rust oil pigments followed by a light dusting of Light Rust and Standard Rust Mig pigments.

I assembled half of the Jerry Cans last night.  I do not think I will be using all these for this build but I might as well get tham all done at the same time.  I am looking forward to painting them.

Edmund,

I was curious as to where you were headed with it by "stacking" filters. Not saying you shouldn't do it, just wanted to get a feel for what the end result you were angling for was. You're right about going dark...very easy to do, much harder to bring it back if you go too far.

wbill76 wrote:

Coming along nicely Edmund! Out of curiosity, what effect are you looking for in applying the second filter of Grey?

Hey Bill,

I have read a number of sources that recommend using varied tones of Filters especially on different components of the vehicle to add realism and variety.  I am not sure if I am going to do that now.  Here is where I am at a crossroads.  To cool my weathering jets last night so I would not get too dramatic or dark on the filters I detailed the wood frame for the jerry cranes with a Vallejo Model Color Deck Tan followed by a number of brown oil washes.  I really enjoy handbrushing with Vellejo model colors they go on like a dream. I also painted the frames a blend of light and dark rust oil pigments.  I really liked how it turned out and will post pictures later today.

I plan to use the oil dot filtering method which will also darken the tone and potentailly negate the filter.  I can always add a darker Filter if the dot filter application does not result in the darker color I am looking for.  Getting darker is easily accomplished as opposed to getting lighter!

I want to stay subtle but the Force is strong in this one!

Thanks Jim I really enjoyed the decals and am getting more confident with them. 

I ordered some Mig Productions Dry Transfers to try as well.

Build Update:

I carefully started weathering tonight and applied two types of filters.  The first filter I used was a simple Oil wash using 592 Abteilung Oil paint with Oderless Minerals spirits.  The mix was about 10\90.

The effect was very subtle and I dried each area of the turret with a hair dryer to avoid tide marks.  I then applied a very light coat of Sin Filter Brown For Desert Yellow which is the lightest colored filter I could get.  The effect was just a little more noticeable.

The directions for the the Sin Filter states to wait two hours betwen coats so I  will allow it to dry overnight before I apply another Sin Filter Grey for Dark Yellow.

Here is how it looks so far:

Thanks Tony & Bill!

I had fun with the decals and I like how the color modulation worked out.  Bill I was spot on on the highlighting free handed.  I do believe I am ready for a Camouflage paint job! I

I want my weathering to be more subdued this go round which is the challenge and only be slowing down and thinking things through will that occur.

    Those decals look perfect and the color is just right in my eyes.

Tony the Mutt

Build Update:

This weekend ended up being very productive.  I wanted to try a variation on the Future application and I only sprayed two very light coats more like a misting and then waited about three hours before applying decals.  The first time I sprayed future I went really heavy on the coat and waited 24 hours.

I then applied some Micro Set on the areas of the model I was putting the first decal and used warm distilled water to prep.  I really had a blast with the little tiger decals.  I applied more Micro Set on the surface of the decal and then used a dry cloth to firmly blot dry.

I then waited approximately three hours before I applied two light coats of MM Flat Clear Acryl to seal the decals instead of a second coat of Future.  My hope is that this will provide enough proctection for the decals during the weathering process.  While I was waiting I finished the other two doors and fixed them in place. I really like the final look even though it hides the turret decals a little but it definately adds character. 

My next step is to start adding all the tools and details but I might put a light Brown wash filter first because it is begging to be weathered.  I hear it right now behind me whispering I am too clean! 

I hope everyone had a great weekend!  I need to slow down now because I do not want to rush this and I want to be subtle about the weathering and learn a few more techniques as well.

Cheers!

Thanks Jim!

You have been very kind to me in all my postings and it's appreciated.  Your encouragement and support in fact everyone's has helped me continue to strive to improve. 

I just sprayed a coat of Future an hour ago and I went a lot lighter in the coat this time so I will not have to wait 24 hours.  I am also going to try something different and not seal with the second coat of Future.  After applying decals later today I will seal with Model Master Flat Clear Acryl as the sealer coat.  I have also hear of people mixing future and a flat clear but I am going to try to seal the decals with just a flat clear.

It's not an original ideal Karl suggested it and I tend to agree if I can reduce one extra coat I will have more detail to work with.  I have nothing to lose except many hours of hard work! 

I will post later today with the results.

Cheers!