An Acrylic over Acrylic wash job gone bad..

The best way to fix it is to paint it over with the same Tamiya acrylics--just lightly dust a thin caot over what you have there; it won't take much to bring this back to freah appearance. Then use an oil wash over it. Tamiya paints are so durable and hardy that you don't even need to seal them when using an oil wash over them--I do it all the time, without fail, without variation.

Use regular mineral spirits and you should be fine.

I'll second Karl's suggestion - oil washes are the way to go.

As suggested, just a light dusting with the base colour should even out the shading.  

I'd also suggest not using black for your wash. Black tends to be a bit stark and contrasty, especially over lighter colours like this one. I'd go with a brown/sienna colour, especially if you're trying to get a subtle, slightly dirty but not a "just been swimming in mud" look.

And remember, don't rust it up. The applique armour plates are steel, if I remember correctly, but the hull is primarily aluminium. 

A third Doog's answer. Tamiya paint is very durable. A light coat over what you have and you will be back in buisness.

Rounds Complete!!

You didn't say if you were washing over flat or a (semi) gloss surface.  In my limited experience, washes of any type flow better over a glossier surface and also can be wiped back off without the staining that occurs with a flat.  I agree that black is too stark, the first Panther I built looked like it was covered in soot. 

Lately, I use a burnt umber oil wash (Grumbacher Artists Oil thinned with mineral spirits) to accent the panel lines.  It gives a slightly rusty, dark line that shows well.  You can use a flat clear over the entire model after the oil has drieda couple days.

The advice handed out so far is pretty complete.

Un-sealed acrylic paints really soak-up whatever you put over the top.  This is why (and I believe that Doog disagrees with this method) I Future coat over my base color before weathering.

That said, I do use acrylic filters over un-treated acrylic base...but these are very thinned, very localized, and are specific to altering the base color of a particular area.  Also, I would strongly recommend NOT using black as your wash, it is too dark.  The purpose of your wash is to add depth and definition to the features, not to make it look overall grimey.

At this point...Doog is on the right track - give it another light spray of dust (or your original base color) and begin again.

Rick

tiki kat wrote:

You didn't say if you were washing over flat or a (semi) gloss surface.  In my limited experience, washes of any type flow better over a glossier surface and also can be wiped back off without the staining that occurs with a flat.  I agree that black is too stark, the first Panther I built looked like it was covered in soot.

Actually, my personal preference is to wash (with oils/thinner) over a flat (Tamiya acrylic) surface. To my eye it seems to integrate with the paint better, rather than looking like it's sitting on top of it.

I use very dilute washes and gradually build up the effect, so staining isn't an issue. It's far easier to apply more if required than it is to remove excess if you apply too much. To minimise "tide marks", I'll wet down the entire area with clean thinner first before applying the wash. 

Here are some thoughts about Acrylics. I have been using the following method for years in all aspects of scale models to include 1/35 WW2 armor and figures, 1/48th WW2 aircraft and HO railroad scenery. I have used all craft type Acrylic paints, i.e. Apple Barrel, CreamCoat and similar paints with no problems or bad results.

Painting with these products is very simple, first they go on very smoothly from the bottle, they mix with water for washes and they airbrush very nicely using Blue tinted windshield wiper fluid to thin them to about a 50/50 mix. The Badger A/B I have works well and by using about 25psi of air the results are very good and the Acrylics I use come in Glossy as well as Flat. The glossy blue matches very close to WW2 U.S. Navy blue.

For weathering armor I first let the base coats dry completely and the drying process is easily enhanced by using a hand held hairdryer set on LOW heat, this dries the paint to a very tough finish. Next I use Black paint thinned to about 70% water and spread the paint with a large sloppy brush letting the wash run all over the model. Then the fun begins, I used artist's chaulk in the color I want to represent for the weathering mud or winter look or any other used look. Scrape the chaulk with an Xacto knife onto the model so the powder spreads out in the black wash. This coat is not mixed with any other liquids.

Next, I apply as many coats as I wish to make the model look battle worn or as few as to have little wear and tear. This technique is great for muddy tracks and wheels and if you want to have a "wet look" for the mud use "MINWAX" brand Polycrylic Wood Sealer. This is a one-step water-based coating that is for sealing wood products. I use it for all water effects on dioramas and the HO railroad. Poured in layers of about 1/4 " it makes convincing water-ways. It is by far better than any product designed for models. One step, no mess and no odor.

It took me years to learn that Acrylic-based products are worth their weight in gold as they all mix together. One more product; Caulking in a tube works wonders to create ground and water surfaces, I mix the caulk with water and the paints I mentioned to make all sorts of scenery, thinned to about pancake batter thickness, I spread the mix onto surfaces such as newspaper for hardshell scenery and the like. For muddy tracks it cannot be beat. A trip to the hardware store is worth the money saved in these products over the specifically designed product for models. As for matching colors on my models to an era, I use a color chart with very good results.

I suggest that you try these techniques and with the wash in mind, if you don't like the effects you can use a stiff paint brush to remove the wash coats using plain water.

All the best,

johncpo (50+ years of model building and more)

Thanks for all the insights.

I may try a oil based wash on my next armor project.  As for my M2A2, I will try to add some more base color to it, and hope I don't wash the decals out too bad.

C. Alan wrote:

As for my M2A2, I will try to add some more base color to it, and hope I don't wash the decals out too bad.

All you need to do to get around that problem is hold a bit of card over the decal to "soft mask" it while you respray the base colour.

lexesbenz wrote:

Genrally you dont want to use an acylic wash over acrylic paints, the paint will resoften and glob away. for Acrylics definitely use oils.