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The Runner-Up: DML Tiger (P) Complete 12-09-09

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, November 5, 2009 9:11 AM

Thanks Rob!, will do my best as soon as my world travel tour is over, I promise! Wink [;)]

MR, I was thinking about this some more re: the horizontal zim question and there were definitely exceptions. The pattern on Stug IIIs and IVs for example comes to mind where the horizontal plate on the nose over the transmission/brakes is always zimmed. Same thing with Pz IVs...so I don't think it's that far-fetched for the Tiger I (P) area to be zimmed as well despite the "official" orders regarding which surfaces were or were not to be zimmed. What got zim did have a tendency to change over time...for example the Pz IV H sometimes even had zim on the schurzen plates depending on the time period in the production period.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Nashotah, WI
Posted by Glamdring on Thursday, November 5, 2009 4:47 PM
I'm loving this build Bill, I'm kind of disappointed that there aren't as many roadwheels on the Tiger (P) as on a normal Tiger.  Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

Robert 

"I can't get ahead no matter how hard I try, I'm gettin' really good at barely gettin' by"

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Ventura (at the beach) in California
Posted by *INDY on Thursday, November 5, 2009 7:33 PM
[quote user="Manstein's revenge"]
 INDY wrote:

Note the Citroen Traction CV11's the germans have car-jacked and are shipping by train to thier little officers elsewhere.....now thats a well organized car-theft ring(among other things)

Oh, wow---you are right, and since we are both building that car, too cool...I am painting mine panzer grey and added a Notek light up front on the fender and a convoy light on the rear bumper...vignette to come very soon...any guess as to what colors those are on the railcars?

~On closer inspection, it looks like only the rearmost car is a Citroen Traction for sure. If I had to guess I'd say it's an all-Silver car, like this one.

(My friend Marc's car, his photo)

~Although it could be dusty white(as common as silver) or it may be already Germanized and  repainted in dunkelgelb.     The car in front of it appears to be an Opal Saloon I'm guessing.

~On the zimmerrit ongoing debate(dare I?) This is really basic to the conversation(but sometimes that helps) a good rule-of-thumb in these difficult to determine cases, is anything that may be in reach by a footsoldier from the ground Likely was zimmed(vertical or no)

"Well...you gunna pull them pistols, or just whistle Dixie?"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, November 5, 2009 11:03 PM

 Glamdring wrote:
I'm loving this build Bill, I'm kind of disappointed that there aren't as many roadwheels on the Tiger (P) as on a normal Tiger.  Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

That gave me a chuckle...it definitely is one of the chief model-related advantages to doing the Porsche suspension even if in reality it wasn't as reliable as the Henschel design. Laugh [(-D]

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Friday, November 6, 2009 2:37 PM
Hey Bill!  This was my choice for #100...I'm looking forward to this one!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, November 6, 2009 5:33 PM
Thanks Steve! It's going to be hard not working on this one for a whole additional week but should give me something to look forward to in exchange for spending 14 hours in coach crossing the Pacific! Laugh [(-D]
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 15, 2009 8:43 PM

After being away for a while, it felt good to get back to the bench this weekend and continue on with this project. After some careful study of the remaining hull assembly steps, I decided it was best to go ahead and deal with the hull PE details at this stage since it would make it much easier to work with the zimmed areas. The first order of business was to assemble the brackets for the tow cables. The Lion Roar set includes some very nice working hinged brackets but they are small and require some patience to assemble. The LR set also includes a length of 0.2mm diameter brass rod and I borrowed a trick from James Bella over on Armorama on how to assemble them. I removed the full set of 6 front hinge parts and bent their hinge fingers to shape around the length of the brass rod. This made it much easier to deal with them instead of trying to work them individually.

I then did the same thing with the opposite half of the bracket, threading it's little finger through and bending to shape. The whole unit could then be cut free of its neighbor, slid down the length of the rod to almost the end, and then a small dab of CA gel used to glue the rod in place. The ends were trimmed with sprue cutters and voila! hinged brackets.

Since the Atak zim only provided cutouts for the large hooks at the front, the rest of the locations had to be determined using the kit part as a template. I used a pencil to mark where each needed to go to maintain the necessary alignment, then carefully trimmed out the zim with a sharp #11 blade. The brackets were then glued in place with CA gel and the hinges left unsecured until after the cables get mounted later.

Next came the tool brackets for the left hull side. The kit-supplied part is molded with all three tools and brackets as a single piece and this meant they had to be split up and the molded on clamps removed. Before doing that, I used it as a template to mark out the general locations for the two shovels and axe with a pencil. Instead of the 3-piece LR clamps, I used three 2-piece clamps from a Griffon set I keep on hand as I prefer them for ease of assembly and attached them in the strip cutout in the Atak zim panel. Due to the location and size of the larger shovel, I had to mount it in position to avoid problems with the tow cable bracket underneath it but the short shovel and axe will get mounted later.

With that taken care of, it was time to return to the instruction assembly order and work on Step 11. I installed the fenders and rear mud flaps to both sides using a combination of regular and liquid glue. The LR PE fender brackets were designed for use with the LR plates and didn't work with the kit fenders in terms of size/height, so I opted to stay with the kit styrene parts. The instructions don't tell you this but you need to open up holes at the front and back on the fenders in order for the brackets to mount properly since they have pins molded on their underside. This was easily taken care of with a #68 finger drill before the fenders were mounted. I had some slight fit issues on both sides where the angled hull side mates up and some putty was needed to fill small gaps.

Once the fenders had set up, I completed the step by installing the hull top plate. This fit well at the rear and sides but the front had a significant gap along the right side that no amount of coaxing and pressure could close. I opted to close up the left side with glue and let it set and then used putty in the gap on the right side, recreating the weld seam detail there with a sharp #11 blade point after the putty had dried. I also installed the spare antenna rod case on the right fender where again the instructions failed to indicate there are 2 holes that need to be opened up on the underside but I'd caught on to this by now and was ready for it! The grab handles for the engine deck were installed along with the large rectangular access hatch to round things out for the day.

There's still more work to be done with the engine deck and rear fender details but that will have to wait until next weekend.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Sunday, November 15, 2009 8:51 PM
Bill,
You are a braver man than I. I wait until the last possible moment to put on small fiddlely parts. 'Cause otherwise I WILL break them off!

Glad you got back safely.

Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Sunday, November 15, 2009 9:04 PM

Heeeesssss Back!!!   See all those travel juices built up to take on the tiny PE. Nice....I like the shovel....looks like a PIA and turned out nice.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: mass,USA
Posted by scratchmod on Sunday, November 15, 2009 9:17 PM

Welcome back Bill, and I must say what a great post. Some beautiful work with the PE, really adds a lot of detail to the model. But then this is what we expect from Wild Bill, nothing but perfection. Always a pleasure Bill.

 

Rob

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 16, 2009 8:59 AM

Dave, that's my normal method as well but had to make an exception in this case due to the location and handling required to get the stuff mounted. Once the fenders are on for example the tow cable brackets are almost inaccessible! Thanks for the comments!

Mike, yes it's good to be back! The long shovel was a bit of a PITA...had to do a lot of careful trimming to remove the shovel head on the kit part and get it sized down to take the PE replacement. It's worth it though as the kit part was pretty chunky!

Rob, thanks for the comments and for stopping by! Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Monday, November 16, 2009 9:22 AM

Welcome back, Bill!

The kit's looking good for sure!

Its funny; watching you build this, I'm reliving all the research and scratchbuilding I had to do to build mine a few years ago. Man, it sure would have been easier with some sharp-looking PE like you've got going here! lol.

It's rockin'! Cool [8D]

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Monday, November 16, 2009 10:15 AM
Bill,
Thank you for the tip as I've got a PE set for my Elefant. You just saved me a lot of woulda, coulda, shoulda.
Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Monday, November 16, 2009 10:32 AM
Welcome home Bill.  Must feel good to be able to settle down at the bech to relax.  Looks good too.  Nice tip on the hinges.

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 16, 2009 2:38 PM

Karl, the LR PE definitely adds value...I can only imagine what your scratch-build effort must have been like! The DML-supplied tow cable brackets are PE steel for the tow cables and totally unusable as a result...very stiff, I think they were replaced in the "Premium" version with brass but not 100% sure on that.

Dave, I'm happy to hear the tip is helpful! I stole it off another modeler who got tired of working things like that one at a time...amazing how a little frustration can often create the necessary spark!

Marc, thanks for the welcome back. It took me all day Friday and most of Saturday just to ge re-oriented back to the right day/timezone. Going out to Sydney is always easier than coming back...the dateline is a killer...I took off from SYD at 3:20pm on Thursday the 12th and landed at LAX at 9:10am on the 12th, proving that it is indeed possible to travel back in time! Laugh [(-D]

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Syracuse, NY
Posted by lexesbenz on Monday, November 16, 2009 2:53 PM
Hey Bill, do you have a link to the hinge technique over on armorama? I looked but couldn't find it. The zimmerit seems to have gone on nicely, have you ever done your own?
The flying hamster of doom rains coconuts on your pitiful city!!!!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 16, 2009 7:03 PM

 lexesbenz wrote:
Hey Bill, do you have a link to the hinge technique over on armorama? I looked but couldn't find it. The zimmerit seems to have gone on nicely, have you ever done your own?

Here you go LB: http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=143409#1198433

I've never done my own zim for a whole vehicle although I have done sections when needed on builds before. I generally prefer to go the Atak or Cavalier route for convenience sake more than anything else. Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Syracuse, NY
Posted by lexesbenz on Monday, November 16, 2009 10:48 PM
Thanks Bill. I used atak zimmerit on a tiger 1 that came out ok, but trying to blend the edges was a pain, anyway I lost so many parts to that kit I figured I would just turn it into a scrap heap one of these days.......scratchmod style lol. My god that technique looks so simple compared to others I have seen!!
The flying hamster of doom rains coconuts on your pitiful city!!!!
  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 1:12 PM
Bill - reaaaaaly don't know how I missed the start of this one. Interesting project of a not-frequently modeled subject. The zim looks great...and those workable hinges are top notch! Thumbs Up [tup]
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 1:38 PM

LB, glad it's helpful for you! The first time I read it I thought it was so simple and obvious a solution but had always done it the "hard" way one at a time myself. It's in my favorites so I can refer back to it whenever i have to tackle that kind of thing as a reminder. Got to love being able to get tips like that via online forums for sure! Wink [;)] As for the zim, I've read about some being able to stretch the resin panels using hot water but that's never really worked for me and I usually just go with the putty work on the seams/joins as a routine thing when dealing with this type of media.

 dupes wrote:
Bill - reaaaaaly don't know how I missed the start of this one. Interesting project of a not-frequently modeled subject. The zim looks great...and those workable hinges are top notch! Thumbs Up [tup]

Thanks Marc, this one started a couple of weeks ago then went quiet while I was in Sydney but is now back on track. The Tiger P is a "one off" in every sense of the word and I've had this kit for several years now as it patiently waited its turn. If it hadn't come in as the runner-up it probably would've waited some more until I actually got to it if I'm truthful! Laugh [(-D] Glad you like the zim and the hinges, they were time consuming but worth it.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 3:38 PM

Glad to see you back Bill, have one of these inthe stash, interesting build so far. Looking forward to seeing this one progress.

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 6:05 PM
Thanks Terry! The weekend is fast approaching so should be able to get some time in on it again soon.
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Thursday, November 19, 2009 1:27 PM

 wbill76 wrote:
Thanks Terry! The weekend is fast approaching so should be able to get some time in on it again soon.

Sounds good Bill!  What's the ETA on the first coat of paint?

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Syracuse, NY
Posted by lexesbenz on Thursday, November 19, 2009 3:20 PM
Yeah that is a great tecnique, It will help a lot!! as for stretching resin panels ehhhh I think I will just stick with blending the edges with putty lol.
The flying hamster of doom rains coconuts on your pitiful city!!!!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, November 19, 2009 4:33 PM
Thanks Steve, the ETA for paint is still TBD! Laugh [(-D]
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Connecticut, USA
Posted by Nachtflieger on Thursday, November 19, 2009 4:56 PM

Looking good Bill.Thumbs Up [tup] I've got this one in the stash also, and am watching your build closely.Smile [:)]

Nate

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, November 19, 2009 8:27 PM
Thanks Nate, appreciate the comments and the interest. Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Bodge on Friday, November 20, 2009 7:46 AM
Nice job Bill but can i ask why you have changed the way the zim pattern is facing on the angle parts at the front, as youve done the rest horizontal then why are these verticle?
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, November 20, 2009 9:16 AM

 Bodge wrote:
Nice job Bill but can i ask why you have changed the way the zim pattern is facing on the angle parts at the front, as youve done the rest horizontal then why are these verticle?

Andy,

It's not a decision that I made, that's how the Atak set created the pattern. Seems to match up with the photos though and at first I thought it was an error too. I'm guessing that due to the small space/angled nature, the factory crew that applied it changed the pattern to fit the space...but that's just speculation on my part. Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 22, 2009 8:31 PM

This weekend was a very productive one but didn't quite get all of the construction complete, which means I'll have a little bit still to do this holiday weekend before I can start painting.

First order of business was to add the zim panels for the front and rear mud flaps that I didn't get to last time. These were attached using the same combination of Gator Grip and CA gel as the hull panels but a little bit more trimming was necessary around the edges to get everything lined up. With that out of the way, I continued on with Step 12 in the instructions and added the remaining front hull details in the form of the Bosch lights and the periscope guards. The instructions have an error regarding the bases of the Bosch lights, the parts numbers are reversed in the instructions from the way they ought to install. The bases also have a half-post socket but unfortunately the way the light posts are molded, it is necessary to remove the little step on the post in order to mount the lights facing in the right direction. I also added some detail by drilling small holes with a #72 finger drill in the base of the lights and in the hull panel and using short lengths of 0.5mm diameter solder to create the wiring conduits.  I used the LR PE periscope guards in place of the kit supplied items and used some Squadron White putty to fill in the gaps in the hull roof since the PE items are thinner than the kit parts.

Step 12 also calls for the installation of the side and rear intakes on the engine deck. The rear intake is supposed to have two framed screens and the LR set replicates this beautifully using bent brass rod frames and PE mesh but their assembly is very intricate. To accomplish this, I used some T-pins and a piece of fiber-board as a set of "extra hands" to hold the rod frame and mesh in place and then used tweezers and the tip of a #11 blade to bend the mesh "fingers" over the rod and secure the mesh in place.

The screens were then glued down in place over the intakes with CA gel and the four small support posts at the front added by using short lengths of styrene rod cut to size and glued in position with regular glue. The side intakes were assembled and the DML provided brass screens added as well to complete the step.

Step 13 adds more details to the rear deck in the form of the hinge blocks, rear fender supports, antenna mounts, rear Notek light, the jack, and the sledge hammer. I drilled out the antenna bases with a #72 finger drill before gluing them into position in preparation for installing brass antennas later on. The sledgehammer mount was replaced with the LR PE cover for the head and a Griffon clamp for the handle.

Step 14 begins work on the turret and main gun so this meant my first order of business was to assemble the RB Model Tiger I initial barrel to replace the two-part kit barrel. Since the muzzle brake threads on just like on the real thing, it's important to attach/assemble the barrel completely first before mounting to the turret to insure proper alignment.

Since the Atak set replaced the turret in its entirety with a resin turret shell and separate roof, I assembled the mantlet using the Atak zimmed resin exterior mantlet and interior styrene mount parts. The coaxial MG's muzzle was drilled out with a #76 finger drill since it was molded solid and installed as well. The mantlet was able to elevate since I didn't apply any glue yet to the mount pins on the inside and the barrel was installed. The fit inside the outer sleeve was a bit loose and CA gel by itself wasn't strong enough to hold the barrel in position, so I mixed up a small amount of Aves Apoxiesculpt two-part putty and applied that in a thin layer around the base and then inserted the barrel into the sleeve, allowing the putty to ooze out a bit around the sleeve and trimming that excess away with a knife point to restore the small gap around the barrel for the recoil. I propped up the turret and barrel and let gravity do the work for me while the putty hardened over a couple of hours.  This effectively completed the work called for in Step 15.

While the barrel was setting up, I worked on the turret roof. Atak provides a full resin roof part that accurately places the pilzen crane sockets and also has some very nice weld detail around the cupola and hatches. I assembled the commander's cupola as called for in Step 17 and also added the loader's hatch and fume extraction fan cover as outlined in Step 16. I didn't notice until just now that I forgot to add the grab handle to the loader's hatch, will take care of that shortly. With the gun barrel set, I did a test of the turret to the hull to determine what elevation the barrel needed to be at since it was too heavy to hold position on its own and then applied CA gel and liquid glue to the mount pins and let that set up. The turret roof was then installed to complete Step 16. I added the LR bracket mounts for the smoke grenade launchers from Step 17 and also added the LR PE strip that creates the small rain drain holes around the edge of the commander's cupola. I added the smoke signal basket to the rear of the cupola from Step 18 but didn't quite get to the rest of that step before having to call a halt for the night.

Not much is left, just need to work on the rear turret basket and spare track mounts before this one will be ready for paint.

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