Pz III Ausf J ..Finished

Lordy me, I'm amazed at how active you are at the moment. Looks great Rob.

Terry.

 Thanks so much for posting this. Now, if it was only as easy as you made it look!!! Great job, friend!

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LOL!!!  hahahhahahahahhahaha!

I am going to die!!

Rob this is awesome! Great Tutorial!  Wayne you are going to kill me!

Rob,

You are really becoming a master at the worn/rusted effects....great work - keep pushing.

Rick

Thanks guys for checking out this practice model. Rick glad to hear you approve, means a lot coming from you. I am trying new things with this and the JT, and also trying to improve my write ups such as including the paints and such that are used in the painting/weathering stages. So all comments are most welcome, I'm still learning.

Rob

Ok this one took longer to build than planned, I had very little bench time this week, but it's done and I'll start the painting today.

As you can see in the pics I opted to remove all the fenders and just have there support arms remaining. This is not going to be my usual wreck or destroyed tank, It'll be a tank that has sat in the woods til present day. I plan on doing a VERY worn and bleeched out paint job, or what will be left of it. This will be a new technique for me so please be gentle.

The next update will be this evening and hopefully the weathering will start tomorrow.

Stay tuned friends.

Rob

Cool Rob!  I like the hanging fender support effect that will really offset this build. 

I am watching with baited breath.  Now I have a picture of a minnow hanging out of my mouth.................. 

Hey Edmund, I wasn't too sure about removing all the fenders but figured it would fit in with the missing return rollers, idlers and sprocket. This was the reason it took sooo long to build. Last time we spoke, I was glueing the bolts on the flanges that bolt the upper and lower hull together. It would have been quicker to use the fenders, but would be missing that something to set it apart from the norm.

Rob

Rob,

I like the concept...if it had indeed sat out in the woods for an extended period of time then it most certainly would've been stripped for anything that could be sold as scrap metal by the locals to raise a little cash. Remember the immediate post war years were very very tough so having the fenders gone would make a lot of sense to me given the scenario you're describing. Looking forward to your next round!

Thanks Bill. Here is a pic, for discussion purposes only, that inspired me to build something similar. The pic is in Waffen Arsenal and I thought it would be cool to build it, well sort of. I've had this book/photo for atleast 9 years but never got around to building a model of it. Now that my wrecking/rusting skills have improved it's about time to go for it.

Rob

Hah...when you said "OOB" I thought that meant a non-wreck.

You've been at the bench an awful lot lately, eh Rob?

Jim and Dupes, thanks guys. Dupes, I wish I had more time at the bench, right now it's mainly the weekends where I get most of the work done. I do plan on building a non wreck or rust bucket, I may start it this week. AgentG will really hate me when I post that on the forum.

Ok I got this bugger primed,painted and stripped of some paint. Here are some pics of what I did.

The usual dark brown base coat. Followed by hairspray in preperation for the main color.

The tanks colors, a very bright PG and pea green camo.

I started stripping the paint and this is where it stands at the moment. I'll seal it and start the weathering with oils and pigments tomorrow.

This is a model I built one year ago to give you an idea of what the PZIII is going to look like.

Rob

Looking great as usual Rob. I LOVE your Jagdpanzer.........it really conveys a knocked out wreck that has been sitting abandoned for years. Awesome!

Nate

Thanks Nate, yep the jagdpanzer IV was my favorite, got lucky with that one.

Ok, I working on weathering the turret this morning and I'm not happy with the results so far, waste of time. I used MIG oils and pigments for this and I definetly need to practice a lot more with them. No matter what I added to the metal sections, it would remain that dark brown . I'll remove what I can and start over again til I'm happy with it. Boy am I glad I didn't screw up the JT doing this, that would suck big time.

Well here are some pics of the dissaster.

It's back to the bench and start over again.

Rob

Rob,

What kind of a look are you going for? I think it looks wickedly cool. What are you after that you're not gettting? Perhaps I could make a suggestion?

Hi Karl. I want the corroded metal to be lighter and reddish in color. I think it's staying dark because of the dark brown base coat, I should have used a hull red color instead. I'm still trying to get it perfect, which will never happen.

Rob

scratchmod wrote:

Hi Karl. I want the corroded metal to be lighter and reddish in color. I think it's staying dark because of the dark brown base coat, I should have used a hull red color instead. I'm still trying to get it perfect, which will never happen. Rob

ANyway, I think you're being too hard on yourself--this looks pretty sweet.

scratchmod wrote:

Hi Karl. I want the corroded metal to be lighter and reddish in color. I think it's staying dark because of the dark brown base coat, I should have used a hull red color instead. I'm still trying to get it perfect, which will never happen.

I had a feeling that was what you think is missing...and since you've described this as being a derelict, the absence of any hint of red oxide primer is something that I would agree is missing. Maybe instead of redoing the whole thing, you could build this up with light wash or dry-brush applications, especially around the edges where the original paint is still intact or tattered? I'm thinking along the lines of the "bog StuG" that was pulled out a few years back and is at Ft. Knox if memory serves me correctly.

Bill and Karl thank you for the tips, Iwas thinking along the same line. I did add rust color pigments which usually works, but not this time. As for the red primer, I'm still working on how to incorporate that in the chipping using hairspray. This is a prctice model so I might as well leave it and take your advice, I'll let you know what happens.

Rob

Hi Rob!

One man's disaster is another mans Master Piece!

I have read Karl's and Bills' comments and correct me if I am misinterpreting this Rob but what you are looking for is a rusty primer effect underneath the hair spray barriar so when you basecoat and then rub away to the to the HP layer you have a rusty effect.  If you look through some of these pics of my Sarina build what I did is spray a coat of MM Nonbuffing metalizser Exhaust and then dry brushed some Vallejo Oily Steel followed by some opaque coats of Vallejo Calvary Brown through the AB.  I then used Lifecolors for the base coat which are water based and thined withwater and chip very easily.

Hope that helps Brother!  If that isn't what you meant as Rossa Danna used to sya on SNL "Nevermind"

Hi Rob,

Gosh, had you not mentioned that you were unhappy with your results no-one would be the wiser.   That said...I can understand that you have a different vision and are pushing for different results.   Bravo to you!

I've read these latest posts a few times and I'm still not quite sure that I understand what you are going for, but - if you are simply trying to get a "brighter/lighter", thus create a "new" rusty effect (as in more recent rusting) I used a color on my Panzer IV burns that worked really well.  It's a Game Color, #72009 Hot Orange.  It's bright, but when applied as a light filter - or stippeled (sp) as Karl suggests it might just do the trick for you.

Thanks for sharing your process, it helps all of us become better modelers.

Rick