Churchill Mk.III AVRE COMPLETED 3/6/11

Cripes!  A month since my last posting?  I've been away from the bench far longer than I thought.  A lot has been going on around here of late.  Some of it good. Some of it pretty darn far from good. Really far.

The road way has been giving me fits.  I've fiddled with various techniques and materials.  I was going to make the cobble stone road from fish tank gravel.  Then I bagged that idea.  Then I thought, "Hey I saw where someone used lentils."  At first I was going to just do the roadway with lentil then I thought of a couple of things.

1. I dont't want these things sprouting or attracting pests.
2. I may want to do a master and make copies of it. Hey now! there is an idea.....

I tried making a master, albeit at test piece, from lentils.  The "mortar" was Elmer's Wood Filler.  Everything dried just fine but when I went to make the mold the lentils went to pot.  So I fell back to my original idea of fish tank gravel, while still using the Elmer's product.  It dried overnight just fine. So, today I shot it with some Future to seal it and make it a wee less binding to the RTV that I'll be using.  Which I need to venture back to the LHS and pick up some RTV.  

This will be the master for the roadway.  It is 14" x 4"

This is the test subject

Now I am simply waiting for the sealant to dry for the coming application of the RTV.  Then for some hydrocal test shots.

Cheers

Dave

Rob,

Thank you very much for the compliments. The ingredients are as follows:

1. Sketch out your idea. What are your main elements? How do they interact with each other?
2. Wood base cut with edges routered to suit. 
3. Seal the base prior to attaching anything to it.
4. Styrofoam for roughing in the terrain. I attach mine using a hot glue gun.
5. Elmer's Wood Filler.  Apply liberally to styrofoam.

That's for the rough version.  For the finishing touches stay tuned.  Whatever you do don't eat this cake. Because if you do, you are going to need an unbelievable amount of fiber to move this one through.

Cheers

Dave

VERY NICE   I like the down into the fight too.  What were your ingrediants for your cake?  I like the idea of cobble stone. Now I really cant wait to see the finished product!  Keep it comeing.

Rob

Bill,

Good morning! Thank you for stopping in and complimenting.  I almost went with the "up slope" approach and then thought of "descending into the fight".  That idea stuck with me.  

Well the "cake" is done and now that remains is all the various "toppings". The base work is roughed in with Elmer's Wood Filler.  This stuff is very easy to work with, as it is the consistency somewhere between cake batter and frosting.  Not to mention is is easy to clean up, both tools and mistakes.  All the surfaces will receive a sanding to knock down the high points.  The road will be a crowned cobble stone or brick.  Just trying to decide on which material I wish to use for that.

Cheers

Dave

Nice setup Dave! I like the "downward slope" positioning, not something you see done often and will definitely create some visual interest for the final dio/presentation.

Eric,

Thank you for the compliment.  This one has the most layers to date and it's still got a ways to go.

Today was mostly base work. Just your basic styrofoam, balsa, and a hot glue gun.  

There will be rubble that has strewn into the road and been run over and cleared. Also, there will be the remnants of a building off to the tanks right side.

I reinforced the road section with some strips of balsa just to be sure. 

Cheers

Dave

Very very nice there sir Dave!! Very realistic look you are achieving here!

Bill,

Thank you.  Sorry about the delay in responding. Work has taking a fair bit out of me lately.  Today, I'm looking forward to time at the bench and posting some updates later. I've been playing around with some MIG rain effects on a scrap hull and I think I'll have a go at it with the AVRE.  One more layer. . I've still to do the road wheels. I almost forgot that one.

Disastermaster,

Fancy cookin'?  Actually, just some pretty simple ingredients put together.  Thank you just the same

Cheers

Dave

some fancy cookin' here........

Really starting to come alive Dave, looking forward to the next set of updates.

Here is a sampling of what I got done on the hull before I had to start my work stretch.  All that remains is to do the road wheels. For the filter that is.  There is plenty more weathering to be done.

Cheers

Dave

This evening I got the dot filter on the turret using Abteilung oils thinned with Turpinoid. 

Dots before

Dots after

A few more after shots of the turret

Cheers

Dave

Bill,

Thank you sir and, I couldn't agree more.  I learned from taking notes from you and others that, the layers were necessary to achieve anywhere near the caliber of builds that I admired.  

The chipping is done and, now it needs to set for a bit.  I found some water marks on the paint. I'll be darned if they didn't just show up over night. Yeah, I know they didn't but, how the heck did I miss that?!   I mocked up the tracks to do a final check on the chipping.  I did find a couple of areas on the upper sponsons that were going to be more visible than I had originally thought.  So, while the touch ups dry out I'm going to grab a cup of tea and warm up, as the garage is rather cool today. outside today. 

I finally got around to getting the oils on the tool handles.  

Cheers

Dave

Looking good so far Dave, adding in more layers through the weathering process will really blend it together and bring it to life.

Eric,

Thank you sir for the kind words.  I got more done last night at the marathon bench session.  The hull and road wheels are close to completion.  I had gotten to the point last night that I needed to give the Mk I eyeballs a break that, I decided to give it a rest and come back at it with rested, fresh eyes.  There a still a lot of wee details to get done before any washes, filters or weathering (chipping not included) get started.

Cheers

Dave

Very nice work Dave, the chipping truly does look great!

Jose Luis Lopez,

Thank you sir for the compliment.  You should look back through the threads and have a look at Bodge's King Tiger.  Absolutely stunning.  Oh I found it!

/forums/p/120415/1217573.aspx#1217573

Cheers

Dave

Nice and subtle chipping!

Andy,

Thank you for following this build and your compliment.  I, myself have been getting more into British armor of late.  I've been called many things but never an influence that would cause someone to like something.  You may wish to take a look at this link

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/newkitnews/bronco.html

Check out the second vehicle down.  An Archer!  Wooo Hoooo.  I'm hoping that someone will do a Bishop. 

I got a bit more chipping done on the hull this evening.  I'll be able to get even more done this weekend as I'm batching it myself.  I used the same colors as on the turret but, I'm thinking of going back tomorrow and adding another shade of OD.  Just something to add more layers.  I'm getting excited to see what this is going to look like with the filters, washes and, weathering.  

Cheers

Dave

Outstanding work... no more lurking as I have been following your work since day one.  I am not into British armors but you have been such an influence that I am starting to like others than Americans and Germans.  Looking forward to the end!

Rob,

Thank you so much for the compliment sir.  The chipping will most certainly be staying.  There is one spot on the rear panel of the box that is just that, a "spot".  That'll get touched up.  The chipping on this beastie is going to take a while but, it'll be worth it.  I need to start in on a base for it soon.  Nothing too fancy.  Just a simple rubble strewn street.  

Cheers

Dave

The subject is great, dont see much British, The craftsmanship / artist is awesome!  This is a fantastic build so far.  The chipping looks great, I would also say keep it!  Looking forward to more.

Rob

I decided to try out some chipping on this beastie.  I figured the box would be a good place to start since stuff gets hauled out of it and tossed into it.  Also, if I didn't like it I could just repaint it.  I'm thinking I'll keep it.  Mind you this is just a start so, it's not completely done.  The box that is. For the light discolored areas I used Life Color UA223 OD Faded Type 1 and for the metal areas I used Vallejo 995 German Grey. For brushes I used a 3/0 size and, a light touch.  One of the tricks is to keep it as random as possible.  

Cheers

Dave

Tony,

Thank you for high praise. I've got a couple of Cruisers and a Matilda in the stash that I may pull out after this beastie is done.  By the way, How did you get the distressed paint effect on that wooden box on what looks to be the back of a Marder?  Or is that I was so tired that I did not see the "how to" in your thread?

Eoin6661,

Thank you very much for the compliment.  I saw a thread a while ago by Bill Plunk, where he applied a pigment wash to road wheels, let it dry, and brushed off the excess.  So, I took that idea and applied it to my tracks.  The results were far better than I had imagined.  

Cheers

Dave

Wow, been a couple pf pages since I last checked in Dave, but looking fantastic mate, as has been said the tracks look wonderful

Regarding the lifecolors, I've only tried their rust set for brushing, for airbrushing what thinner did you use, their own brand or water....any issues?

MERCY MERCY

Dave you sure are making it harder to top this one with your next project.

Tony Lee

Jester,

Thank you for your compliments.  Those were the best kit decals I've played with in a long time.  The Solvaset gave them that final nudge and, the result (seeing it in person) is that they look painted on.  Uber thin and tough.  Graphite is my go to technique for high wear areas.  It looks different when burnished with a smudge stick.  When coated with mineral spirits it looses almost all of its sheen and takes on a gray appearance.  As for the pigs, they gave the appearance of my builds a leap forward.  You don't really need to use that much.  A little bit truly goes a long way.

Bill,

Thank you for the compliments.  As I said above, they are some of the best decals I've played with in a long time.  I got some painting done on  the tools and exhaust system yesterday.  

The tool handles were painted with Vallejo Old Wood and the metal parts were base coated with German Gray then darkened up with a thin black wash.  

The exhaust system was painted with Vallejo Dark Rust.  The unevenness of the base coat was creation by mistake.  

v

The aerial recognition star that snuggled down ever so nicely.  This is after I Flat coated it with Polly Scale.  

Cheers

Dave

I like where this one's headed Dave, decals look sharp and those tracks are awesome as well.

The decals came out great Dave and those tracks really look fantastic!! Graphite is awesome for that burnished worn metal look IMO. Got to invest myself in some pigs though for sure!!

Jose Luis Lopez,

Thank you for your kind words, stopping by and, following this build.  I'm not breaking any ground speed records with the rate of speed on this build.  Come to think of it, I am not breaking any speed records.  

DM,

Thank you so very much for that compliment.  Aside from assembly, it's five rather easy steps:

1. Base coat with color of choice.  I use MM Exhaust Buffing Metalizer. Let it dry about 24 hours.
2. Coat tracks with wash.  My mixture of choice is MIG pigments with water.This mixture will not eat the delicate plastic track pins when it gets into crevices. Mix it  to about milk consistency. This concoction will dry in about an hour.
3. Rub graphite onto the high wear areas.  I prefer to use graphite sticks as they give me more options.
4. Rub the graphite areas with a smudging stick .These are rolled paper sticks that are pointed at either end and, come in a variety of thicknesses. You can get them at any art store or store with a decent art supply selection.
5. Take a stiff brush and brush off the excess wash.  This will also give the graphite areas a coating of dust.

I'll get some pics up later.  I flat coated the decals last night with something I forgot I had.  Polly Scale Flat Coat.  I gave a dead flat finish.  So, I went ahead and gave the commander figure a blast of this stuff as well since, there were a couple of areas that had a bit of sheen to them. Even better, is that I won't have to touch up any of the areas on the tank that received gloss coat for the decals.  There were only a couple of very small areas on the front serial number that had any trace of silvering. These may not even be visible once the weathering and washes start.

Cheers

Dave