Tamiya 1/35 JSU-152 '1151': The Completed Build! 06.01.11:

Hi, Ben. Great progress, looking forward to seeing the green. everything comming together now.I noticed you are using the Vallejo primer, is there any reason for that? I'm only asking because the paints I use are Vallejo and games workshop. I only use games workshop because the shop is on my way home in the evenings. Well what I'm really asking is are you using it because it is a better quality or just because its handy to get?

regards,

Terry.

terry35

Hi, Ben. Great progress, looking forward to seeing the green. everything comming together now.I noticed you are using the Vallejo primer, is there any reason for that? I'm only asking because the paints I use are Vallejo and games workshop. I only use games workshop because the shop is on my way home in the evenings. Well what I'm really asking is are you using it because it is a better quality or just because its handy to get?

regards,

Terry.

Hi Terry,

Up until now I have always used the rattlecan primer that my LHS stocks that is made by Humbrol.The problem I found was that when you sprayed it, it BLASTED a whoosh of primer everywhere that, if you weren't careful, would hide every detail and cause runs.

The big cans of 400ml Vallejo primer are much better value for money (£3 extra gets you 250ml more primer) but the best thing about it is that it sprays a really soft, fine mist that settles perfectly and used properly couldn't run or block out details - I'm a definate convert!

Hope this helps,

Ben

I thought it looked pretty cool just in the primer. Should be even better with the base added.

tigerman

I thought it looked pretty cool just in the primer. Should be even better with the base added.

Hey Tigerman,

I thought so too! Like I've said earlier - It's a great primer - highly recommended.

I'm covering the 6am - 2pm shift this morning (it's 10am here in England now) so only 4 hours to go until I can get some real colour on her!

ATVB

Ben

Very nice work Ben,moving along nicely.lookinng foward to see your painting and weathering

PS,were you able to check out my improved pics in JSU-152 redux ?   I can take it

Now I think I am starting to fall in love with your ugly beast... the tracks are probably my favorite.  Thanks for the information about AM wooden boxes.  No need for you yo send it all the way over here.  Save it next time I come to England maybe in few years.   Maybe some too.

I agree about the risks of using those rattle cans.  In the past I have been using those from Walmart but it has been difficult to control the spray.  I have heard only good things about Mr. Surfacer primer recently so I had to give it a try on my Marder II... it is probably the best experience so far and much easier to control except that it is harder to clean the airbrush afterward. 

Looking forward to your next update!  Be sure to tone down the silver ends of cleaning rods?  

Hey guys,

Anthony - JSU Redux? Remind me buddy - I'm getting old & forgetful

DP - Andy, nice to hear from you matey!

I've just painted the beast and she looks killer! It's certainly a one off colour! I was planing to use Khaki Drab and Olive Green only but it was way too brown so there's been a touch of Dark Green and Olive Drad in there too and it's EXACTLY as I wanted it.

The tools and cleaning rod will be all be weathered down so don't worry about the metal ends - thannks for the heads up though buddy.

I'm going to paint the wheels now and get some weathering done on the tracks. I can't touch the build now as I've only just finished spraying her.

WIP update later!

ATVB

Ben

3 weeks have gone by and I missed this one entirely.  Well almost entirely.  Looking good.  Hope I don't miss the update

Hi guys,

Okay: The main basecoat is now on - it's dried a little 'greener' than I'd hoped (I'd wanted a hint of brown to it) but I'm really pleased with her overall. The dark pin washes & general weathering should tone it down and take the edge off the green anyway.

Like I said I've brush painted the Battle of Berlin white stripes as the decals are far too neat and tidy for a Russian build - I wanted them to look sloppy and a bit messy. I am using the number decals so I had to cut out the numbers to get the space right and I used two blobs of Blu-Tack to hold the number decals in place whilst I painted round them.

I've put the tools on but just as I glued it on I realised that the shovel would need to be put on after the decals so that got whipped off quick and the glue removed so I've left it in place held with tape.

The tracks were treated to a wash of MIG rust wash but didn't look quite right so I coated them in various MIG pigments and lightly brushed some enamel thinner over the top to hold the pigment-they came out very well.

I've got next weekend all to myself so I should have her about done. I've got some Vallejo Gloss and Matt varnishes to use insted of my usual solvent based rattlecan stuff; the gloss will be applied midweek when the paint is fully cured so I'm ready for decals next weekend. There are two small red stars that need to go over the white stripe at the front of the tank either side of the mantlet too. Some chipping and painting of the wheels should see her about there. I'm going to try stacking some stowage on her too ie a couple of them wooden crates, some track links and thinly rolled milliput to represent some tarp is in order I think!

Does anyone use the Vallejo 520 Gloss & Matt varnishes (100% Acrylic Resin)? I've got some in the 17ml dropper bottles but it seems a bit 'milky', will this milky white disappear? A friend is giving me some tips on using it but I haven't spoke to anyone else who uses this stuff. apparently It's very highly rated.

Check her out so far:

Thanks for looking guys - all feedback and suggestions greatfully received!

Have a good week & take care,

Ben 

Ben,

PM sent....

nice looking shade of green.

Ben, the green looks great but those tracks just look awesome bud!!!

Jester75

Ben, the green looks great but those tracks just look awesome bud!!!

Thanks Jester and Anthony,

I gave the tracks an initial coat of Gunze Steel followed by a wash of MIG rust (the wash didn't really work) so I built up different layers of pigment until I got this superb dusty, rusty appearance. A light mist of thinners to hold the pigment and voila - probably the best tracks I've ever done - plastic kit tracks too!

I'm a bit unhappy about the paint job: I can never get this pre-shade lark to work and just end up covering it all up. It's a bit green too and would probably look more suited to a Sherman but with weathering she'll be fine and with practice and I'll get the hang of pre-shading!

ATVB

Ben

Making good progress with this one Ben, have to echo the sentiment on the tracks.

Don't get too frustrated with the whole pre-shading element of things...there are many ways to get the effects you want and if pre-shading isn't working out for you, there's always "post shading" and/or use of filters and other tricks to achieve some variety.

Thanks Bill,

She's coming along nicely. I had hoped to do something a bit different with the paint this time but it didn't happen - next time maybe

The tracks have turned out perfectly - you'd think they were Friuls!

ATVB

Ben

That's looking quite sharp, Hinsky.  Your skills are truly beginning to shine.

For what it's worth, I've been using highly thinned Clear Smoke (Tamiya) as a post shader on my recent aircraft builds and with patience it can really add some depth to a monotone paint job, or one where preshading gets cvered up.  It'll take a few passes to build up the shading, but I find it somewhat easier to control the effect if it is thinned down as opposed to straight from the jar strength.  After I have fnished all of the painting, decaling, weathering and whatnot, I've found that model master flat acrylic mixed with a drop or two of a buff or other "dusty" color makes for a perfect flattener and highlight shader.  It combines the flattener and gives a dusty appearance once everything is complete.  I would suggest a low airpressure on the old AB when using these two tricks...

Ditto the looks of the tracks. Very nice save.

Thanks guys,

Each build is improving in it's own way. Perhaps not overall but eventually I'll hopefully be able to tie all of these little improvements together and start knocking out some really class work.

The biggest aid to my improvement has been slowing right down. When I first started out I'd try and get as much done as possible in a session. Now I mark a point where I would like to get to and if I find myself getting stressy I'll leave it until the next day - after all, modelling is supposed to be a relaxing pastime!

If I get four builds done this year I'll be pleased. I'm going to build my new Tamiya StuG III Ausf B after this (I picked her up yesterday-great kit) and then I've two Dragon mega kits so with only weekends to build on time is at a premium but there's no rush.

Any tips on the Vallejo Varnishes that I've just bought btw guys? They are in 17ml dropper bottles and it says to dilute with water and air brush on. The varnish is a bit white in colour so will this white just disappear and re the water - what ratio? I think the Gloss is Vallejo code 520 and the Matt 530 (I think).  

I'm really enjoying this build-a great kit!

Many thanks,

Ben

Hi Ben,

I really like the color you used for the base coat on your JSU-152.  I thnk you said  you mixed Khaki Drab and Olive Green as well as some Dark Green and Olive Drab.  Do you have any idea what your mixing ratio was for the basecoat?

Thanks,

Brian

Looking good Ben.

Nate

Brian D.

Hi Ben,

I really like the color you used for the base coat on your JSU-152.  I thnk you said  you mixed Khaki Drab and Olive Green as well as some Dark Green and Olive Drab.  Do you have any idea what your mixing ratio was for the basecoat?

Thanks,

Brian

Hi guys,

Thanks Nate!

Brian: I'm glad you like it. Personally, it isn't the colour that I was after - I wanted a darker green with a brown hue but a good wash should sort it. I'll try my best to remember the mix but it was a real mish-mash of colours!

I used Khaki & Khaki Drab (XF's 49 & 51) to get the brown tint but this was just khaki without a hint of green so I got the Tamiya Dark green and added it until it I obtained a nice colour. In my mixing cup the colour looked PERFECT but it dried to the colour you see which wasn't the colour in the cup!

• 25% Khaki Drab
• 25% Khaki
• 50% Dark Green

This is a rough approximation but should get you very near to the shade I got.

I've just put my gloss coat on. No more hot rattlecans for me - this time I used the Vallejo waterbased 520 Gloss varnish in the 17ml dropper bottles. Mixed in the AB cup 50/50 with water it dried quickly and hard. Great stuff!

This weekend the decals go on (the numbers that go in the gaps in the white bands and the two red stars at the front either side of the mantlet.

After that washes, then chipping, then fine tuning and finally some pigments following the matt coat and my first build of 2011 will be complete! I would like to think that two more full weekend sessions should see her finished.

ATVB

Ben

Awesome!  Thanks for sharing your recipe for Russian Green.  I'm always looking for different formulations of this color, so this is great.  One note: I have been using Tamiya Dark Green as basecoat for my Russian armor.  The formula seems to have changed as it is less darker than what it used to be, an almost black green.

Brian

Ben,

It's good to hear you're slowing down and taking more time, patience is always a modeler's best friend! I know when I start to feel too pressured/rushed is when I tend to make mistakes so typically try to steer clear of that and when I feel it starting to grow, I just don't build and wait for it to pass. Fortunately it usually doesn't take too long for that to happen.

It's also good to see/hear that you're playing around with different paint ratios and also found a better solution re: the Vallejo stuff. Looking forward to the next round of progress!

Hey Bill,

Thanks buddy, You right re slowing down - I'm hardly making any mistakes and any I do make I notice before any glue is applied so I can rectify as I'm doble checking the instructions and dry fitting and I just wasn't doing this a year ago.

I'd rather have 4 beautiful models than 8 'not bad' models!

I'm really impressed with the Vallejo stuff. I'm still a fan of Tamiya paints and always will be but the extra variety of colours in the Model Air and Panzer Aces range is really helpful!

I'm definately going to try some basecoats using Model Air and Panzer Aces just to try for some variety in basecoat colours. I hear the Model Air is a 'weak' paint and easily damaged but I'm also told that I need to put a few drops of their Gloss varnish in the AB cup with the paint and it sets rock hard.

ATVB

Ben

Good afternoon folks,

Just a quick update:

The decals are on (the 1151 numbers and the two stars), the wheels have been painted and fitted and the tracks are also on.

A basic light Raw Umber oil wash has been applied all over and has changed the colour to something I like far better I used an Acrylic wash for the wheel hubs - about 25% Flat Earth mixed with water and dabbed onto the wheels using a brush. I might have to hit it again tomorrow as now the water has fully evaporated the wash isn't looking quite so effective - it works well though and is something I'll be using a lot more in the future.

A light mix of MIG 'Rubbel' Dust (that's how they spell it) and Dry Mud pigment applied to the lower hull and lightly airbrushed with Pigment Fixer looks just right.

Tomorrow will be the main challenge as I'll be doing the pin washes & attempting some chipping and general weathering to make her pop. Next weekend should see her complete.

NOTE: JUST BEFORE I TOOK THE PHOTOS I DECIDED THE WHITE STRIPES WERE TOO DARK AND I CLEANED THEM UP WITH SOME THINNER SO PLEASE EXCUSE ANY TIDE MARKS AROUND THE FRONT OF THE TANK WHERE THE THINNER IS STILL DRYING!

Thanks for looking guys; I hope you like her so far  

All comments & suggestions etc are very welcome!

ATVB

Ben  

Ben looks great, easily your best to date, you are improving in leaps and bounds. Can't wait to see more progress.

Congrats,

Terry.

Thanks Terry,

You are very kind!

I'm at a bit of a 'dead-end' at the minute with this kit.

I'm a total newbie where Greens are concerned and I just can't seem to weather her properly? I just can't get anything I try to work?

I've got some streaking to add later and a few other thing including an Acrylic wash around the fenders etc but I want to really make her pop and it's not happening.

It's nearly there but something is missing and I don't know what. I've got some stowage to add later to break up the monotony of the green but - any suggestions?

Any ideas guys?

ATVB

Ben

Ben,

Some questions, and then a critique.

First of all, your model looks awfully shiny in those photos. If that's the result of you having just put on a coat of thinner and it's still wet, then wait until the model is good and dry before taking them next time. I just can't really see anything there to honestly critique in way fo weathering with all that shine.

Now the second thing--why would you put on a full coat of gloss when all you needed were two small spots of gloss under the decals placement that could then be easily flatted? You may have given up the rattle cans, but you've still  got the same deleterious effect--an unnecessary overall coat of gloss. I chalk it up to falling back on old habits.

Next--I think that you're not seeing your model "pop" because of, once again, that overall gloss. It's only my opinion, but you're not weathering a Dodge 1971 Super Bee here. Unless you've shot a coat of flat over the hi-gloss, nothing you do to your model is going to make much difference until you get a proper canvas on which to work, ie, a "flat" model. Yes it's true that some models benefit from a semi-gloss sheen of the paint, but that sheen is so subtle that it's the kind that can be effected through something as little as finger oils.

I wish I could get not only you (but modelers in general) to give up this "old modeling" philosophy of putting down a gloss coat for whatever reason. It simply doesn't need to be done, and it's just not the canvas for proper weathering results. My opinion,. to take it or leave it.

Now a suggestion. Immediately flat-coat your model, get out the old drybrush technique, and hit it with a nice drybrushing of tan. Once you have all the panels well-defined with the technique, THEN use some chipping over that to show some wear. It will stand out a bit more against the drybrushing. Apply some lighter pigments as in a dust coat--LIGHTLY, so as not to hide all that nice db';ing, and then assess it and repeat some pin washes to re-define the creases where the pigments may have settled and taken away the definition of the lines.

Good evening guys and thanks for dropping by Karl

Righto, she's just about done and looking really nice. I'm very happy with her.

Streaking effect is on (mainly AK products but some oil dots too). Some MIG Grease stain has been applied around the spare fuel drums and around the rear hatches. Another pop of Buff & Flat Earth Acrylic wash applied with the AB around the fenders and on the wheels to give a nice dusty look. It's something I was reading about and it works well.

Dark pinwashes around the panels have been applied and some various drybrushing on raised areas and pencil work on hatches etc.

Finally a covering of Vallejo 520 Matt Varnish & some pigment work on the exhaust outlet area and a tiny bit of black around the muzzle (but not too much) & I'm done (I think)!

Obviously I don't have a 'bench' so everything get's put away now ready for next weekend. I wouldn't want to build every day as it would soon become a bit of a chore but a session midweek wouldn't go amiss!

Next weekend I want to add some stowage. I've made up a bundle of matches that have been shaped to make them round, not square and I've also got a 'log': I'm undecided on wether to use the log placed on the spare fuel drum brackets or just a bundle of wood placed on one and leaving the other brackets free. I'm also going to assemble to some spare track links along with some thinly rolled milliput to use as tarp to go on the the rear deck. Along with a couple of my crates and some hairspray weathered drums she'll be loaded up and ready to flatten Berlin (or sit in my cabinet at least)!

Re the Gloss coat: Everyone I speak to and every magazine I read advocates the use of a gloss coat - not just for decals but for use all over to protect the paint from harsh weathering processes and to aid with washes? I've stopped using my rattlecans and have started using the Vallejo waterbased varnishes applied through the AB mixed 50/50 with water. Everyone seems to advocate their use, be it Klear/Future or whatever! I know that you feel strongly about this so bearing in mind that Tamiya Acrylics are super strong, on my next build (Tamiya StuG for the StuG GB) I'm not going to use a gloss coat (except for decals) and see how I like it. Perhaps others can chime in on this subject to aid with an overall picture of how we use varnishes. No more solvent based rattlecan varnishes though - I can see what you mean about them darkening the base coat(s) Karl!

Here she is so far:

Thanks for looking guys,

I'm looking forward to working on my stowage & getting this build wrapped up.

Have a good week folks!

Kind regards,

Ben  

looking mean Ben !!