Dragon Tiger I Initial - COMPLETE! c/w photos from today's show! (18.03.12)

Holy cow!  That's five years ago... who was the host?  I'd sign up only in the fall... can't commit more GBs until I finish mine first.  Unless it will last for a year or so...

deafpanzer

Big Cats GB is overdue!  

You got that right. 2008 was the last one.

Ben, ben, ben, my good ol' English friend, I have to say this is your BEST work so far.  Everybody has noticed that you are turning into a master after every model.  Can't wait to see how it comes out at the end! 

I finally brought two sets of inactive washes at the show yesterday.  Of course I had to get another Tiger kit.  I think you are right... Big Cats GB is overdue!  

Ben, in re Bill's post above, you can use some black pastel chalk or charcoal and brush it over the orange to tone it down and give it more of a burnt rust look.  Cheaper than Mig pigments.

Looks like your experimentation has paid off Ben! Only small suggestion I would make is to tone down the orange rust on the exhausts a bit and/or introduce a bit more darker color variation to keep it interesting but not quite so strong. Purely a taste suggestion though. Best of luck with the show if you enter!

Thanks Ben. I hadn't checked them for AK stuff. At the top of my AK shopping list is the streaking grimes and the stuff for Pz Grey. Going to be a while before i get back to armour, but i will make sure i am stocked up by the time i do.

Thanks Satch,

Thanks for the !

Over here in Blighty we have the Hinckley (it's a little town near me) Model Show and my local club have a few tables and if I can get someone to cover my overtime shift I'll be going for the day - otherwise I'll only be going for a look round at the end of my shift at 2pm.

Failing that I'll be going to the next show which again is nearby and we have a table there too.

I'd like to have my most recent StuG III B, Pz III Ausf N and of course this Tiger. The Pz III is also painted in a similar scheme and falls under the 'Leningrad' banner, the idea being this Tiger could be a cabinet mate for my Pz III.

I'm glad you like her anyway. One more bench session and she'll be complete  

Bish: Thanks too matey. The AK range is great - Their Filters/Washes and streaking effects in particular are just excellent and will last an age too.

I use Creative Models-excellent fast service:

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paints_pigments_filters_washes-c-5_76.html?oscsid=ab12909c8f69b027384e681e1f027e55

The link I've given you is to the AK page of Creative Models - the top few items (Rust Streaks, Winter Streaking Grime and Streaking Grime are my personal faves. Get a few different filters and streaking effects definately. I've got the AK DVD so let me know if you want to borrow it. It really helps when starting to use AK stuff. Fuel spills / Grease stains is very good too - either from Mig or AK.

As for pigments I'm happy with MIG but anyone does them i.e. Vallejo or AK. I'll stick with MIG as I've got so much of the stuff but the range of colours is great anyway and has me well covered. 

Have a good week guys,

Ben .

Sa-Weet!  Are you going to enter that in a contest there?  It's a winner!  Your progression has amazed me, Ben.  Let me hoist a pint to you.

Satch

I am planning on getting a variety of AK items for weathering. It was a toss up between AK and MiG and i have decided to go for AK. I will add that track stuff to the list. By the way, where do you get your AK products. I can only find places that do a part of the range, short of getting them direct.

I don't like rusting tracks much, it just doesn't happen. The end results you have got there look spot on to me. I have the other Dragon kit of this tank and i can't remember what the tracks are. I didn't realise Fruil did a set of mirrored tracks, i better check on that.

Again, looking great, and looking forward to seeing how you get on with the pigments. Thats my next step in armour weathering.

Bish

Afraid i lost track of this build, sorry Ben. She has come out great. I like the finish on the tracks. I didn't know AK did that for Fruils. I may just have to get some.

How come you went for Fruils over the kit tracks.

Thanks Bish,

Try the AK stuff mate - it definately darkens them but doesn't  really 'rust' them (I couldn't get them to rust up anyway) so you'll need to do that separately. Tim's Track Black stuff is the one to go for imo.

I was going to go with the kit tracks (DS tracks btw, not Magic Tracks). They look ok but don't sit right so Friuls it was and they really do the job. This thing is getting pretty heavy now!

Glad you like her - she'll hopefully be a contender for personal best build when fully weathered. Just pigments and mud on the running gear and fenders to go!

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Afraid i lost track of this build, sorry Ben. She has come out great. I like the finish on the tracks. I didn't know AK did that for Fruils. I may just have to get some.

How come you went for Fruils over the kit tracks.

Hey DM,

Thanks buddy - I'm really pleased with her.

Karl urged me to experiment and experiment I did.

Thanks for the heads-up on the Jack Block. It is waaaay too neat so next weekend I'll attend to that.

I'm glad you like her

Take care,

Ben

Looks great !!!

My only nitpick would be with the jackblock...... 

    needs a bit more work to match the quality of the rest of the build.

Hi guys,

Good progress made again today

I've concentrated totally on upper hull weathering only. The mufflers and wading extensions have been rusterised using Mig light and old rust pigment and the tips topped off with black soot pigment.

Deeper chipping is shown by the use of Hull Red colours applied with a 5/0 brush. I applied a very light all-over Raw Umber W&N Oil Wash; more than a Filter but not quite a Wash and it looked good.

Some AK Winter and grime streaks with a few light rust streaks did the trick. Similar was done on the turret, turret roof and frontal armour. I used a bit of Mig Fuel Spill/Grease and two flat brown streaks from the engine area down the side wall on the left with Tamiya Clear painted with the brown to give a 'wet look'. 

Next week I'll be finishing this beast. I started on the on the upper hull today as next work is all about the running gear will see some mud work on the lower hull under the fenders and pigment work on the outside road wheel walls. I'll be adding some lightened basecoat superficial chips on top but that will be all. A final matt coat and pigment will look good and finish it off nicely (I hope)

Check her out gents:

So, here is where I'm at. The helmet came with the kit and on the PE Fret there are nice straps so it can be hung anywhere - not decided yet. The bucket (from RB) I will use as I'm going to make it look like there was Whitewash in this bucket. The snow shovel - again, undecided!

I've really enjoyed this build and will definately be building a late Tiger I at some point with Zim etc.

I know Andy Deafpanzer got this kit for Christmas and I know he'll do something very special - C'mon Andy!

Thanks for looking - please post comments and suggestions

Take care,

Ben

Lookin' good pardner !!!

Hi guys,

At last I've had an entire 6 hours modelling time without distractions today. Week upon week it's work or family but not this week!

I've blackened the Friul's using AK's new Burnishing fluid. It worked well-it didn't leave them looking rusted though, just rough and blackened like newer tracks in use would look like. I used Mig's standard Rust Effects Wash to add the rust - the effect, after filing the raised parts to expose worn metal, is VERY good.

So tracks done, I painted the tools, fitted the spare links up front and painted the rear Jack Block.

She is looking really nice now so tomorrow I'll be starting the weathering. I'm still not 100% on how far to take it so I'll be super cautious-there's no rush!

I hope you like what I've done today - she's got potential! 

Tools Fitted:

Burnishing the tracks (note: the guide asks for the links to be cleaned with soapy water - DON'T DO IT! AK messed up - you should use Vinegar and then water with a toothbrush to scrub the links prior to treatment).

I might have left them in for a couple of minutes too long but no problem!

Thanks for looking guys,

I didn't expect to get anywhere near this point today and I didn't rush so I'm pretty chuffed!

I'm starting with a light all-over Umber Oil Fitler/Wash tomorrow then some streaking. Then chipping and drybrushing, then a matt coat and finally some mud and pigment work.

By then end of next weekend I reckon she'll be in the cabinet!

As always, please let me have any suggestions or comments!

Cheers guys and enjoy the rest of the weekend,

Ben 

That's cool. Thanks Bill

Ben,

In answer to your weathering questions...the answer is "it depends". It's a question of layering and desired effect. If you do the chipping/sponge stuff before the washes...then they will appear as being underneath the washes, fading, etc. that you apply. If you do them after, then they will apper as being on top of them. All comes down to the type of look you are trying to replicate. A light umber wash will not ruin the white patches but it will alter their color...so you need to think through that in terms of "seeing" the end result in your mind's eye. If you want the white patches to wear/weather and blend in with the gray, then the wash will accomplish that. HTH.

Hi chaps,

Here's a bit of an update as to where I am with Tiger '100':

The plan was to have all the Friuls assembled by yesterday latest as I was planning to make a run every morning thus enabling me to do the Blacking and paint the tools this weekend BUT I'm having to work all of the overtime that I can get this month for saving funds towards a decent holiday this year. I woorked yesterday from home and finished one complete run of Friuls whilst I was keeping an eye on the work phone and have finished the other run today. I'm working next Saturday too then I've two free weekends all to myself - I reckon I could have this one in the bag by the end of March but I definately won't be rushing her!

The realistic plan of action is to remove the Friuls now for Blackening near the end of the build. Next Saturday whilst I'm working I'll paint up and fit all of the tools. Next Sunday I'll look at adding a light wash, doing some sponge work on the white areas using the grey basecoat mix and I'll be lusing Karls low-lighting recommendation (Umber oil mixes with some Enamel Mettalic Silver to make a Metallic brown to be added to the side walls etc in a dry brushing fashion. Obviously the usual streaks and pigments will play their parts

This may sound like a total newbie questionI'm still a bit unsure of the colours to use when adding tiny chips on top of the Grey basecoat with a very small brush? Also will a light Umber wash work all over or will it ruin the white patches?

Ideally should I be adding chips and sponging etc pre or post any washes. What will work best in your opinions? Is there a 'best way'?

Where I'm at right now:

I'll be adding the top spare link reataining bar after the links have been Blackened:

 AK's Friul Burnishing (Blackening) Fluid:

Thanks for looking guys,

Sorry it's slow-going but time is at a premium this month!

If any has suggestion on washes and the best chipping colours I'd love to hear them!

Have a great week folks and take care,

Ben

Hey Bill,

That's what I was thinking of doing but thought it it best to make sure.

I sat down to write my PPP (Personal Performance Plan) for work which I estimated would take 1 hour. It actually took four - thus eating into valuable modelling time

Before I started typing my plan I'd got a run of about 30 links assembled so when I was finished I decided to drill out all remaining links plust a few for the spares up front

With all links pre-drilled now and I easily get 20 put together every morning which means AK Friul burnishing and the start of weathering next weekend!

I cannot wait to get these blackened and rusted up a bit - these big Friuls really do look the business!

It's been so annoying this weekend as I thought I had a whole two days to myself i.e. yesterday and this morning to assemble the Friuls which arrived yesterday morning and this afternoon to Burnish them and mount the spares up front with the second retaining bar in place. With that daft Performance thingy and the meal out yesterday my two sessions at the bench turned out to be literally a couple of hours!

Ahh well, next weekend is definately mine as the folks are away and I'm not working. I might turn all the phones off in the house next weekend! It would be great to be able to go into next weekend all set to start the weathering!

Anyway chaps, have a great week and take care

All the best,

Ben   

I would fix the idlers in position once you have the tracks positioned and slack arranged. It not only makes life easier when moving the model around for photos and placement in your display cabinet (and moving around later if you need to), the weight of the Fruils over time will need a strong support to stay in place.

deafpanzer

You pushed me into using Friulmodel tracks.  Now you are trying to get me hooked to another MIG product?   Never heard about this before and I have several MIG washes and they work great as long as you don't overdo!

Can't wait to see it with full tracks on!  You plan to use new AK or Blacken-it product?

Hey Andy,

That Mig Winter Cammo Wash is great if you really do want to make your whitewash look like it is slapped on with mops etc!

I ran out of time with the Friuls today and still got one run left to go so I'll try and spend an hour making a run every morning before work (I don't start until 2pm) so next weekend I'll be ready to blacken them.

I've got the AK Burnishing stuff for these tracks ready to go. I normally use Tim Ivatts Black Track. His stuff treats 2-3 sets of tracks and costs the same as this AK stuff which treats 1 set. I'll see how these come out and decide. I mean, I only use Friuls every few months so the odd tenner won't hurt. The problem with Tim's stuff is that you can treat the first set and they look great but the second set never looks as good plus his method involves three types of liquid, the AK method is far more simple!

http://www.affinitymodels.co.uk/p94037/AK-159--INTERACTIVE-BURNISHING-FLUID/b0-2537-2537 (the new AK stuff)

http://www.tihobbies.co.uk/ (my usual Friul stuff)

Next week I'll see which gives the best results. I've watched the you tube videos on using this stuff and the AK seems so easy. One bottle, use it and throw away!

Oh-a question! At present the rear idlers are not glued in place, it's just pushed into the hole and swivels therefore tensioning or slackening the tracks. Do I leave it this way or do I find a good fit and glue the idlers in that position?

Cheers guys,

Ben

You pushed me into using Friulmodel tracks.  Now you are trying to get me hooked to another MIG product?   Never heard about this before and I have several MIG washes and they work great as long as you don't overdo!

Can't wait to see it with full tracks on!  You plan to use new AK or Blacken-it product?

Nice work on the Tiger so far Ben.
Following your build with a lot of interest since I have the same kit waiting.
Looking forward to see how those tracks are going to turn out :)

Very Best Regards
Johan 

satch_ip

That's a sweet Tiger, Ben.  Kind of an unusual choice for a first Tiger.  The double side bins really make it look strange.  Same unit markings as the III N?

Satch

Cheers Satch,

Same markings matey yep.

I've built a couple of 1/48 Tigers before (Tamiya) but wanted something better for the cabinet. I'd seen the Tiger '100' featured in magazines and at shows and really wanted to build it.

I'll finish this one and then later I'll build a late model Tiger I with zim etc.

Cheers buddy,

Ben

That's a sweet Tiger, Ben.  Kind of an unusual choice for a first Tiger.  The double side bins really make it look strange.  Same unit markings as the III N?

Satch

Hi guys,

Saturday wip update!

All the wheels are painted up and look fine - I think my rubber mix must have been way too dark as it's almost impossible to tell where the metal ends and the rubber starts but no problem as the hubs will be washed and muddied up so all will be well

For the minute I've slopped on some of Mig's 'Winter Camouflage Wash' which looks great and with the mud and umber washes over the top will look even better.

The ATL-116 Mirror Tracks arrived right on cue this morning and my AK Burnishing Fluid (basically a type of Blacken It) arrived yesterday so although I didn't get much done today as I went out with the folks for the afternoon tomorrow should just about see the Friuls complete. Every link needs drilling out which is a real time eater but I find Friul assembly relaxing so I won't complain.

This is the first time I've used Tiger Friuls and they look excellent-and massive! The crew must have had a nightmare swapping tracks over or carrying out maintenance on the real things!

After this build I'll be building everything in my stash (Bronco's Comet, Dragon's Soviet SU-85M and their Dragon IC Hybrid Firefly and also Tamiya's Willys MB Jeep so I'll be 'going green' for the rest of of 2012 as it will even things up in my cabinet but after they are done and I'm building German again my first build will DEFINATELY be a later Zimmed Tiger I with Summer Cammo - I have really enjoyed building this beastie! 

Here are few quick photos to show progress - the wheels are all properly fitted now btw:

Mig's brilliant Winter Cammo Wash and the Initial Type ATL-116 Mirrored Friuls: 

Thanks for looking folks.

I'd love to hear any comments etc.

I'll post an update tomorrow which hopefully show completed Friuls - I doubt I'll have enough time to Blacken them but that can be done any morning this week seeing as I work the afternoon shift

Take care guys and all the best,

Ben  

Byrden

Tiger "100" always wore mirrored tracks, i.e. the left and right links were different.

David

Cheers guys - very helpful link there DM

116 it is then!

All the best,

Ben

Tiger "100" always wore mirrored tracks, i.e. the left and right links were different.

David

Hey Ben, read all about track directions HERE.