Dragon Tiger I Initial - COMPLETE! c/w photos from today's show! (18.03.12)

Bish

Some niced looking goodies there. Does that RB bucket come ready made or do you have to put that together, i think it looks rather nice. Though personally i would go for Ordanance Green for that, i use tamiya XF-11 for that.

damn, i used to know the shell colours off the top of my head, but it been that long since i needed that info i have forgotten. I know one colour used is field Grey, which i think goes on the HE rounds.

Hey Bish,

Ordnance Green eh? That's fine - just something to give a little shot of colour.

I ordered all these bits from Steve (formerly Lou) at Armour Models. The bucket came ready made and just needs the handle fitting.

I recall seeing shells of all colours. I definately recall seeing one with a Field Grey tip and what I'm sure was like a Parkerised colour for the case - almost gun metal like? 

If I choose to use just a couple of spent BRASS cases on my build surely they wouldn't need painting again? Just a bit of black pigment where the shell has fired?

Cheers buddy,

Ben  

Some niced looking goodies there. Does that RB bucket come ready made or do you have to put that together, i think it looks rather nice. Though personally i would go for Ordanance Green for that, i use tamiya XF-11 for that.

damn, i used to know the shell colours off the top of my head, but it been that long since i needed that info i have forgotten. I know one colour used is field Grey, which i think goes on the HE rounds.

Hey guys,

I hope you are all very well.

I'm afraid I haven't any new work as such to show to you as as I've had the most incredibly enjoyable day Christmas shopping with my parents and visitng family - all day looooong  and now that I'm home I just feel too shattered to do any work.

The plus side being I have the WHOLE day to myself tomorrow to get a fair chunk of work done and my Brass uprade parts for the kit turned up today - I only ordered them yesterday! The post in the UK is (usually) great! He he he!

Here's what I've got: 

RB Early Tiger I Barrel:

RB Brass Bucket to add a splash of colour. I'm thinking of painting it in Enamel Blue and hang it on the tank like the crew have simply 'borrowed' it:

Quickwheel Mask - I love these things: 

Finally, 12 x 88mm shell cases and 12 shell tips which can be used optionally. I'm  thinking of digging a figure out of the spares tub and having an arm chucking a spent shell case out of the shell hatch and perhaps a spent shell case on the rear deck - or the idea of simple vignette/dio isn't out the window yet?

As you'll see there are three different types of shell. I'll need to do some research but there's going to be an armour piercing one, HE one and something else. Have a look at the three types of shell tip on the photo below and let me know what you think - colours will be very handy too! I've got a book somewhere so I might have to dig that out yet. I think the live shells will go in the spares tub for a future build yet but thet are handy to have.

As you can see in the top right corner of the photo there are three different shell tips - a smooth, bullet-like one, another with a rounded piece sticking in the tip and a third which has two 'steps' in the tip producing a rib shape?

Plenty of stuff to keep me going!

Looking at the instructions below showing turret and barrel assembly which I should reach tomorrow I'm wondering shall I just assemble as normal omitting the kit barrel (shown in section #15 with the kit barrel markes as 'S') and spring - instead just using my new barrel?

What's the length of barrel exposed i.e. from Mantlet opening (part A20) to Muzzle? I need to get this right!

Thanks for looking guys,

Hopefully I'll have a good wip update for you tomorrow!

Take care,

Ben

Gotcha David - I've just popped them off with an older scalpel blade.

Obviously the photos of the last update show the top deck dry fitted hence it's sitting up at the rear but after looking at whats next to come I can see them 2 little parts are going to make the rear grilles sit up waaay too much when the deck is fixed.

Anything else you know of that should be left off David?

Thanks buddy.

Ben

Yes, part G31.

David

Cheers David,

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll remember that for next weekend as that is part of what I'll be doing.

Erm, when you say omit the top part of the radiator, what part are you referring to buddy? I'm assuming you mean the thin rectangular piece on each radiator? I've already fitted them if that's the case but they'll come off easy enough.

All the best,

Ben

There's something you need to watch out for. Dragon's hull roof is thicker than the real one, so it collides with the radiators. As a result the back of the hull roof will not sit into the hull sides properly.

Here's how a real Tiger looks at the rear side;

Only the hinge protrudes above the side walls.

The solution is to omit the top part from each radiator. They're not visible when you're done.

David

Hey Guys,

WIP update time - I'm on call today so have been on the work phone a lot sorting problems out so I marked a nice point to get to today in readiness for a big 'attack' next weekend. Our customers are selfish interrupting my build time! LOL!

Andy - I'm glad I've got you interested in a Tiger. I'll know youll do something special. I'm a bad influence eh? I've been told that I'm that a few times before, too! I'm still waiting for you to take me up on the offer of painting me a Commander figure for this Tiggy (in Cold Weather clothes)! My figures - no chance (yet).

David - I wouldn't worry matey, I'm on the case! The rear end was all square and when I slapped the additional armour panels on the sides they butted up at the rear all nicely as it should but because of how it is shaped there is a part that protrudes back over the rear panel, see below photos ( text continued below the photos):

David - The assembly seems spot on and, the gaps and assembly where everything 'butts up' are identical both sides and it honestly looks like it should be like that. If I'm not happy prior to paint I'll fill the little gaps with Milliput but it looks fine at present. Just keep an eye open as the build progresses and let me know what you think as I keep blogging  If this is the only problem that occurs then I'll be very happy!

Anyway, frontal armour is in place totally now and the horseshoe is on (most important). I've opened out all the holes that are shown beneath the top deck with my Pin Vice. Most have to be opened up anyway but a few are marked for tanks 3, 100 or 123 - you open up the holes that are for your tank only (obviously).

The lower bar which retains the spare tracks links is in place - I'll have to leave the top bar until after painting as I want to insert the spare links separately after weathering with a bit of rusting etc.

Hatches and 'scopes are done, covers are on, top deck has been dry-fitted and it fits PERFECTLY! It was a teeny bit tight so I've took a whisher off the top deck guides which slot in behind the frontal armour and it couldn't be better now.

Next week I satart with the rear grilles and photoetch intakes, then onto the turret. Tools and wheels last. I have an RB turned Barrel, Quickwheel mask, spent and live shell cases and a brass bucket (pre-formed) all on order. I am still undecided about the Friuls!

Some photos from today (remember the top deck is not fixed in place yet):

That's it for today guys - I hope you like!

I'll definately be building a Zimmed Mid Production Tiger next year - great fun!

This kit is superb (so far at least). No fitment issues, no noticeable instruction screw ups apart from the order in which way Dragon show you to put the frontal armour on. If a buddy hadn't mentioned this on an old blog of his I think it would have been nigh on impossible to assemble the way the instructions ask you to as I tried myself and dry fitted it wouldn't have gone without removing glued parts so I'm pleased I read about that!

Have a good week everyone - update next weekend!

All the best,

Ben

Looking real good buddy.   This is it!!!  Just told my wife I want to get a Tiger kit for Christmas.  It has to be either mid or late model.  You are such a bad influence...

Take your time and enjoy this massive beast.

I'm a little worried about those gaps at the rear; they shouldn't really be there (although the real Tigers were often 1 or 2 cm oversize due to tolerance).

Have you tested the fit of the hull roof? When I'm building, I fit and correct all the large parts before the small ones.

David

Hi Bish,

Yep, that double armour is what caused the little gaps at the rear where it 'butts up' and sticks out.

You should DEFINATELY try a Quickwheel mask from Steve at Armour Models. I have bought one for Dragon Panzer III/StuG III wheels and it perfection! It is a square of hard plastic with say 18 holes for a Panzer III for example (12 for the roadwheels and 6 for the return rollers). You just give the tyre area area a portion of your rubber colour, let it dry well for at least 24 hours then stick the in the holes - only the rims are exposed and it's so quick, neat and easy. I say let the rubber colour dry well because the bit that covers the rubber portion is sticky and it pulled a bit of the rubber colour paint off two of my Pz III wheels. 

I've ordered the suitable Tiger one for this build - they cost £8 or £8-50 depending on size.

http://www.armour-models.co.uk/model_kit_Quick.html

I'll be assembling this fully but all wheels, tools, tow cables, Jack and block etc will be left off for extra detailed painting after air brushing the main build. I have tried to paint a build with parts in place but I found it hard and not enjoyable - I enjoy painting tools and wooden blocks etc with a quality Sable brush.

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Right, i see now. That's my kind of painting. Though i airbrush my wheels while they are on the sprue as i am doing the rest of the camo, then i brush paint the rubber.

I did see in your pics a double layer of armour on the side. I haven't looked at any of my DML Tiger instructions that closely so hadn't noticed that. I would imagine that makes it easy for them to produce the zimmed and none zimmed kits. They just have to change the outer part.

Hi Bish,

I've just fitted the extra side armour where it sticks out at the rear slightly (I think it's supposed to do that by the looks of the drawings-it's all butted up so the installation seems fine).

A lot of it like the Jack and block etc will be coming off prior to to painting but it's been made so well it literally snap-fits without glue!

I only paint the bare-bones with the ab. Stuff like the wheels and Jack and tools all get brush painted.

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Thats coming along very nice. I see theres a gap between the side and rear plates, are they just waiting to be glued, or are they in need of some filler.

I still don't get how people can paint armour with al those other bits fitted.

Hi guys,

I've managed to squeeze in a few hours this afternoon.

I've not got that much done as although the destructions are fine - they do require CLOSE scrutiny and dry fitting is essential too.

Someone did mention to me somewhere that if you folloed the guide and fitted the front glacis armour in the way shown then it is nigh on impossible to fit the top deck with front panel where the MG is etc as it won't slide underneath. He was very right so I've assembled it like this and the top deck will drop straight on now (maybe)!

So, rear Jack Block has been Blu-Tacked in place for removal prior to painting, MG has been assembled and it moves on the ball mount nicely (I didn't go for a fancy MG assembly as it won't be seen apart from the barrel and the air intakes are in place.

I'm improving with my PE use now - the rear fan intake surrounds are a bit rough and could be better but they took be surprise (ie study instructions - I didn't at that stage and before I knew it I saw that PE was needed! I also fitted the tiniest little PE parts ever to the MG external surround - that was fun and the carpet monster had nothing to eat today either! Ha!

I've just noticed that I've not fitted the '100' Horseshoe so that will be fitted tomorrow.

So far - so very good. Lovely kit and a fun build.

Thanks for looking guys,

I'd love to hear all comments etc!

I reckon I could easily get into building Tigers - I'm gonna need a bigger cabinet! LOL!

Update tomorrow,

Take care,

Ben  

Hinksy

Good tactic - let me make all the errors so you can avoid them later on when you start!

You can count me in on that as well. I haven't built any of dragon's Tigers yet, so i will be keeping an eye out

That and you can't beat a good Tiger.

Cheers Andy,

Good tactic - let me make all the errors so you can avoid them later on when you start!

It looks like a nice kit, nothing too crazy on the instructions and a dream to weather too.

I'm going to be pretty busy in the run up to Christmas so it's going to be a slow blog!

Thanks buddy and take care,

Ben

Ben- I always wanted to get this kit.  I only have two Tiger kits in stash but they are protocol and early version.   Of course I will be following your build with interest.  Good luck!

Cheers Stuart and David,

David - I'll be lopping them two posts off then!

Stuart - I've got a replacement barrel on order, I use replacement barrels for the majority of my builds as I can't stand the seam lines which are a real pain to shift properly. The fact that they are so cheap also helps the decision!

What Mantlet are you going to be using for your aftermarket barrel? I see that there is a ready to go Mantlet as opposed to the one that is for the sprung barrel and needs building up.

Cheers guys,

Ben

Ben:

On the photos of "100" taken in Summer 1943, the posts for the adapter plate simply aren't there. It looks like they were never there. I can't explain it.

In all the photos of these Tigers with their winter camouflage, the crew are wearing a variety of fur coats, winter jackets etc. They don't show up in black Panzer uniform until the snow is gone.

David

Currently building the exact same kit.

I have finished the hull and am working on the turret.

I got some aftermarket gun barrel and machine gun barrel for the turret.  You may want to think about that if you havent already as the metal barrel will not have any seem lines.  Also the small machine gun barrel for the turrent will be hollow.  Difficult to get a hollow barrel that size in plastic.

I will be doing mine as a the box shows...Russian front at Leningrad seige.  I want to get some figures for the commanders and a driver to show off the hatches.

Easily done mate. It can often take someone else to point out something that we have missed. I know its happened to me more than once.

Cheers Bish,

How obvious is that!  Totally unsuitable - forget I asked guys.

The set will be fine do for an up and coming project in 2012!

I might have another go myself yet.

Cheers Bish,

Ben

A good start. As to the figure, the unifroms for tank crew didn't change that much. They did wear camo and other types later in the war, but the standard black unirom was used from start to finish, the only change being the headgear early in the war. Only problem with him is that i don't think he would last long in a Russian Winter in the far North. Looks more suited to a cool summers day with those thin gloves.

Hi guys,

Just a very update as my wrist is absolutely killing me and I haven't been able to much at all. You know if you were to fall over and you put your hands out to protect yourself but your hand bends back too far at the wrist? It's that pain x 10 which is making any assembly difficult, painful and also not to the best of my ability 

Anyway, the rear guards are on as are the exhaust outlets and extended tubes.

I've also assembled the Jack and put that on it's mount and a couple of other little parts and that's it. I wish I had more to show you but I'm going to start messing things up if I carry on with a bad hand making assembly a nightmare!

I've had to reverse the Brass Shackles as the part you would hold to screw in the threaded bar slightly foul the guards and would foul the tracks as they were initially positioned with the bolt heads sticking outwards. They are a massive improvement on any Styrene Shackles!

Questions if I may: 

1) On the destructions Dragon have the '100' vehicle (Pz.III turret bins on the turret sides) shown without that rear plate and ask you to remove it's locating lugs - I think that's that starter isn't it? Suggestions or advice anyone?

2) A good friend of mine sent me a trio of Masterbox figures, all painted and looking good. He's been really unwell lately and I'd love to use this fine fellow shown below in my pictures as a Commander figure. My figures are getting better but I wouldn't put one within 100 yards of one of my builds plus this tiger is going to munch a lot of space in my cabinet so at some point I'll be putting it on a small base, possibly with the other two figures my friend sent me which are two German grunts with field accessories - I'm just unsure about his uniform i.e. is it suitable for this era (early 1943, Eastern Front). I know he'd love to see them used.

Today's work - not much!

Herr Commander figure  -  will he be ok?

Thanks for looking guys.

I'd love to hear what you have to say about the figure and if he's suitable?

Any pointers or advice all greatly received btw

No doubt the wrist will be fine for next Saturday so I'll be ablt to make a start on the upper assembly and really get stuck in and get this show on the road!

Have a good week everyone,

Ben  

Darn it Bill, you were supposed to be commenting on my post - not Andy's! LOL!

Seriously, thanks for the 's and the wheels will be left 'til very last as I've got a Quickwheel Mask for the and want them done properly. I'm thinking about the Jack, the Jack Block and a lot of other stuff. The exchanust could also be tricky to get full access to when fully assembled.

It loks like a great kit and not the mind bender I was expecting when I first checked the destructions - it's going to be fun I reckon!

I'l be using your blog on your site for some references seeing as I've gone for the side bins like you did.

I'll really get stuck in tomorrow as long as my hand stays calmed down a bit - it's a bit easier now actually.  

All and any suggestions - please chuck them my way!

All the best,

Ben

Off to a good start Andy! You have the usual roadwheel fun in store coming up and they were all rubber rimmed, so definitely would suggest leaving those off and painting separately (at least the outer 2 sets since those will be visible).