Tamiya 1/35 Tiger I WIP *update*

101stAirborne

Thank You very much Mike you have been a great help to me! So when the tracks are done after about 20 mins of soaking in the balcken it I can por the blacken it back into the bottle and re-use it?!? because there is so little in the bottle.

I'd say the Blacken it works in less than a minute so to do both sides would take no less than 4 minutes since you will need to use soap and water and a toothbrush to wash the tracks afterwards to deactivate the solution so it wouldn't eat through the track pins. Definitely reuse the Blacken it it will last you at least 10 to 20 tracks.

Thank You very much Mike you have been a great help to me! So when the tracks are done after about 20 mins of soaking in the balcken it I can por the blacken it back into the bottle and re-use it?!? because there is so little in the bottle.

What you need to do is finish your tracks first before you use the Blacken it makes things easier if you do.

when you are done get a plastic container and use half of the bottle of blacken it (you need to keep half of the contents in the bottle to reactivate the amount that was poured into the plastic container after it is poured back in) pour it into the container and dip your completed tracks into the solution and turn it over a few times to get both halves with even coverage. The Blacken it creates a chemical reaction that blackens the metal sort of like the reaction Eduards PE sets have when touched by oily sweaty fingers (They darken to a gunmetal color).

101stAirborne

Bish I would like it to be Normandy and Against US troops since those are the figures I have for the Dio. I think I found a Tank # that will work though. # 211 fought in Normandy in the Falaise gap. I'm pretty sure the US fought in Falaise.

I also bought the last bottle of Blacken it at the hobby shop today. SO how should I apply it to the tracks? Should I do it in sections or all together?

Bish I would like it to be Normandy and Against US troops since those are the figures I have for the Dio. I think I found a Tank # that will work though. # 211 fought in Normandy in the Falaise gap. I'm pretty sure the US fought in Falaise.

I also bought the last bottle of Blacken it at the hobby shop today. SO how should I apply it to the tracks? Should I do it in sections or all together?

101st, does the tank you build have to be one that fought against US troops, if so, does it have to be Normandy.

Try Micro Mark

http://www.micromark.com/blacken-it-4-fl-oz,7267.html

might try doing my metal MG barrels with it to see how it goes.

101stAirborne

Mike I might use blacken it but I don't know where to find it or how much it is. I don't think I've seen it at my hobby shop, but I might have missed it. I also think I heard somewhere that it attacked CA. Not sure if thats true.

Alo I am thinking about what unit # I should have for my Tiger. It's come down to:

Number 213 - fought in Normandy in 1944. Not an SS division though and I painted SS insignia on my figures. 

Number 231 - fought a Villers Bocage France in 1944. It is an SS division tank, but the English fought at Villers Bocage. I don't believe the US did so that wouldn't work. 

Number 134 - Panzer Ace Willi Fey was in normandy 1944. It is an SS division tank.

Number 211 - went through France in 1944, is an SS division tank. 

 

Mike I might use blacken it but I don't know where to find it or how much it is. I don't think I've seen it at my hobby shop, but I might have missed it. I also think I heard somewhere that it attacked CA. Not sure if thats true.

Alo I am thinking about what unit # I should have for my Tiger. It's come down to:

Number 213 - fought in Normandy in 1944. Not an SS division though and I painted SS insignia on my figures. 

Number 231 - fought a Villers Bocage France in 1944. It is an SS division tank, but the English fought at Villers Bocage. I don't believe the US did so that wouldn't work. 

Number 134 - Panzer Ace Willi Fey was in normandy 1944. It is an SS division tank.

Number 211 - went through France in 1944, is an SS division tank. 

101stAirborne

It came with two bags. I think one is left and the other is right. I will probably just paint them black with a spray can or my airbush. Is that going to work?

probably best to use the airbrush spray paint would probably make them stiff. But Blacken it does make them the right color in a few minutes though.

It came with two bags. I think one is left and the other is right. I will probably just paint them black with a spray can or my airbush. Is that going to work?

101stairborne is there a definite left and right hand side to your tracks? Of all the "Handed" Friul tracks I worked with there were only left hand tracks in both bags but I don't have a problem with thatat all.  And a trick I learned when working with those type of tracks is to work with the right side of the tank and have it propped at a 45 degree angle so that when you put on the road wheels and the idler and sprocket wheels without gluing them you can put on the track and make any adjustments to the length of the track to get your desired sag. Once done you can work on the other set and make your adjustments and final work before you trim the pins and get the tracks set for use of the blacken it solution if you have any. I also suggest after painting the road wheels and idler wheels and thesprcket wheels you can attach the road wheels if you want but leave the Idler wheels and the sprocket wheels off till you install the tracks to make instlling them easier and hassel free.

Excellent tip Mike!  Why didn't I think of that earlier?!?!  Thanks!

What I do with the pins is raise them slightly then cut them with wire snips then push the cut ends back in and they are slightly below the level of the hole so there is no need to file them.

101stAirborne

I found some pins for the tracks antd they work great! I have a question though, What should I cut them with? I don't have any wire cutters that cut the pins close enough to the edge. Should I buy on? or does a hobby saw work?

 

Yes it worked much better! the pins actually stay in when I put them in!

I don't think saw will work well... those pins are tough.  I used a mini wire cutter to cut the pins as much as possible then I used metal file to smooth the edges out. 

Was it was easier to use the dress pins than kit supplied wiring this time?

I found some pins for the tracks antd they work great! I have a question though, What should I cut them with? I don't have any wire cutters that cut the pins close enough to the edge. Should I buy on? or does a hobby saw work?

What a nice looking build - coming on very well!

The interior and Zim are both excellent.

I love Friuls and Magic Tracks. If, like Andy, you can find dress pins that are just tight enough then no CA should be needed unless the odd one is a bit loose.

I can't find these pins so I use the Friul wire for detailing my builds as it's a perfect size but too flimsy to assemble Friul links. Instead I use .35mm(?) Copper wire which has a bigger diameter and doesn't bend as easily. Just take your time and assemble links of ten or fifteen at a time; if you don't you'll have a wonky track length. Just fix all the rows of 10-15 x links together at the end.

I use a tiny dab of CA Gel applied with a toothpick or pin to seal the end of each hole but if you are planning to use a chemical blacken-it treatment be careful as it doesn't like CA. The UK Blak-Trak I use doesn't anyway, it won't touch any area with CA on.

Best of luck,

Ben

Mikeym_us

Wasn't it Wingnut who made the Jig?

Bish:

My mistake. can't think who it was now. I know to explain it, but pictures would be better.

 

Ye, think your right.

I bought couple of dress pins in different sizes.  I think I used 35mm and it worked like a charm.  50mm was too thick I recall.  35mm was little tight so I didn't use CA at all.  But I realize after moving them around the pins may move little.  A box of dress pins was like only $2 at Hobby Lobby for 250 pieces.

If I had to do it again, I would use CA... tip the head of pin into the pool of CA before inserting into the links.  Then use a good wire cutter to cut the rest of pins off, be sure to wear safety goggles because they go off flying! 

That should help a lot because I was having trouble with the kit supplied wire falling out. Do the pins need glue or do they stay in there tight enough because I know at my hobby shop they have flexible CA. I'm glad I won't have to do any cleaning out, that will save a lot of time. Thank you!

It's been a little while since I posted an update because I was busy with school and I didn't get much done, but I had some time this weekend so I got a little more done.

A weathered the interior a little, or maybe a lot but most of it will be hidden so it doesn't have to looke perfect.

Thanks for looking!

Nice process on your Tiger.  I did Friulmodel tracks recently.  Learned a great tip from a friend here I think it was Hinksy.  Instead of using the set supplied wiring, use dress pins.  It made my job alot easier that I was able to assemble one side of track in less than 45 minutes.  No cleaning up necessary...

I didn't use CA but I will next time to make sure the pins stay inside.

Hope this helps...

Wasn't it Wingnut who made the Jig?

Bish

My mistake. can't think who it was now. I know to explain it, but pictures would be better.

My mistake. can't think who it was now. I know to explain it, but pictures would be better.

Not me Bish, can't take credit for anything related to Fruils...I've never built a set for a build!

I love em. I would replace every kits tracks, even the magic ones, if they were not so damn expensive.

Just make sure the holes are clear before you try putting each link together. Sometimes a hole can be blocked. take your time, i tend to do them in sections, the put sections together. Someone, i think bill, came up with a great jig. I haven't tried it yet as i haven't had a chance.

I will have to wash my hands after using them then. I did want to see how they tasted, but I guess i cant do that. I've never worked with fruils before. Any tips?

Yep, commonly misunderstood fact that Fruils (and all similar white metal products) contain lead and standard precautions should be taken with them in terms of handling and dust (if you drill or grind them for any reason). Same thing goes with the chemicals/products out there used to blacken/age them...they usually contain an acid or similar mildly corrosive substance so careful handling is a must there as well. Lots of nasty stuff around in the hobby these days (can't tell you how many products on my workbench contain the warning that they contain stuff known to the state of California to cause cancer, pregnancy issues, birth defects, etc.)

Nice score on the Friuls, they should be a great addition to your project.

                                   Hey 101,nice score on the fruils,just dont eat em and wash your hands well.

                                                               Greg"Detailfreak"Rowley

I've never noticed they had lead in them. Will teach me to pay more attention. I don't think they will be a problem unless you plan on seeing what they taist like. I would just make sure you wash your hands after handling them.