Tamiya Willys MB Jeep (1/35) - WIP Update (21.07.12)

I am glad you like the Verlinden set.  Sometimes I forget what I have brought already... that was long before I created an inventory list to help me keep track of my past purchases.   So figured you would enjoy the extra set I had in my stash. 

I would avoid using rattle can either especially for little builds.  Good move there... always wanted to try one of those Vallejo primers and they are top on my shopping list at upcoming show AMPS Auburn.  

That barrel is a HUGE improvement!  No question about it especially that MG will be the center of attention.  

Remember my Chaffee with lots of stowage?  

Same painting method we use on uniforms can be applied to stowage too.  

1. Paint a base coat of paint. 
2. Add darker paint to the base coat then apply inside the  crevaces. 
3. Now add lighter paint (yellow or tan) to base coat for highlighting on the edges or straps.  
4. Final step do dark wash for details and pin washing too.    
5. And have FUN!

It's not that hard... just take your time.  Hope this helps... 

Bish

The Jeep is coming along great. I wish i had seen your appeal, i'm sure i've got a few 35th US bits laying around somewhere. O well, if you ever need more, i will see if i can help out. Nice to see the guys on here helping each other like that.

Hey Bish,

To be honest I've got enough Allied Stowage to keep me going for a long time now seeing as I only occasionally dabble in Allied stuff - I plan to do more this year, especially that Bronco Comet in my stash.

It was really kind of Lasse and Andy to help me out - really generous! The Verlinden stuff is sweeet!

I'll be getting some paint on her tomorrow. Being a very small build I'll be avoiding rattlecan primer as it tends to sit heavy and thick even if you just slightly overdo it so I'll try that Vallejo dropper bottle grey primer through my AB. I bought a little dropper bottle to try before deciding to make the switch. It shouldn't kill any of the detail whatsoever when lightly airbrushed on. 

Update tomorrow!

Ben

The Jeep is coming along great. I wish i had seen your appeal, i'm sure i've got a few 35th US bits laying around somewhere. O well, if you ever need more, i will see if i can help out. Nice to see the guys on here helping each other like that.

Hi guys,

I've made some really good progress on the Jeep this afternoon and she is potentially going to be one sriously cool looking little build if all goes to plan!

If you recall, by the end of last weekend I had the chassis and engine partially assembled and was starting to get ideas together about which direction I'd take this build.

Two weeks ago I put out an appeal for a few little bits of stowage for a US Jeep i.e. US helmet(s), rifles, ammo and grenades along with packs and satchels etc. as all that is in my spares tub is German! The response was overwhelming with my good pal Lasse Thun sending me a great selection of stuff which included a couple of 'K' ration boxes, rifles and packs/hemets. A couple of my buddies in England sent me some bits too but my great friend and (sometimes) mentor Mr Andy 'DEAFPANZER' Leffler really came through with Verlinden's Resin Jeep Stowage set (#2089). I'd asked him to get me some Silly Putty and he sent this over too which was supremely generous and a real treat!

Thanks Andy, Lasse and everyone else who has helped me so far - be it with stowage, photo/video links or general advice! When I made an appeal for a few bits of US/Allied stowage I wasn't expecting a reply like this but what isn't used on this build will be used on the kit's in my stash (Bronco Comet and Dragon 1C Hybrid Firefly) and I like the look of the Bronco Chaffee so that will be a great platform for stowage. 

Onto my build: today completed the chassis (apart from the 'top' section of engine which can only be fitted when the cab and chassis are fitted together), assembled the seating, adjusted the pedals to better resemble the videos I've seen and I replaced the 0.30cal barrel on the kit MG with an RB Brass barrel which just looks great. Everything is left in several sub-assemblies i.e. chassis, MG, seats, hood, engine top section and wheels (I haven't touched the wheels yet). I'm planning to paint everything with Tamiya OD Green tomorrow and paint the seat cushioned areas separately along with lights and red lenses. Decals will be added and the build finally assembled and LIGHTLY weathered to resemble the box art - I'll then paint up the stowage, add it and then apply heavier weathering where needed so the stowage doesn't look out of place - I just need to practice painting this sort of stowage as my stowage up to now has been Jerry Cans, tools and barrels etc - not cloth bags and canvas windshield covers. I'm new to Resin items too!

Note: All sub-assemblies dry fitted for the photos:

I added a PE strap to the rear Jerry Can as the moulded one was, well, moulded!

The sub-assemblies:

Thanks for looking guys - I hope you like her so far?

As always, all comments and suggestions/advice are very welcome as are hints on painting effective Resin and Plastic stowage to give it that touch of realism.

Thanks again fellas,

Ben

Shellback

Ben i used chrome silver enamel from Model Master on my Italeri kit . You can get reasonably good effects with it . For me the trick is to mix it well and then put a brush all the way to the bottom of the jar and pull up the heavy paint from the bottom . I put one glob of paint on the mirror and dont touch it again . it takes a few days to completely cure . Not perfect but its a small area . There's better materials i'm sure .

on the Model Masters chrome silver. Makes an excellent mirror. I have also used BMF with some limited success. 

Ben i used chrome silver enamel from Model Master on my Italeri kit . You can get reasonably good effects with it . For me the trick is to mix it well and then put a brush all the way to the bottom of the jar and pull up the heavy paint from the bottom . I put one glob of paint on the mirror and dont touch it again . it takes a few days to completely cure . Not perfect but its a small area . There's better materials i'm sure .

Shellback

Ben , here's a nice look at the interior of a restored 1943 jeep . Its got a couple of nice close ups of the pedals , dash , gear shifts , engine .......should help a lot .

Nice looking build at this stage .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRAXTxxypaE&feature=related

Hey cheers SB,

I've looked at a few videos but this is by far and away the best - none of the others showed the pedals in any real detail for longer than a second or two or they were quickly skimmed over with the video whilst the Jeep was in a garage so it was pretty dark in the footwell.

Looks like I need to lift them the brake and clutch right up. My accelerator is looking ok but my other two pedals are way out.

He's lovingly restored that engine-not a spot of oil or grime in sight! A chap up the road used to have one but sold it about a year back dammit!

Thanks again Shell - this video is perfect

Ooh question guys - what do you use for wing mirrors (the mirror part obviously)? I'm thinking about a few options and most involve chrome coloured or Gunze Stainless buffable paint but I'm not sure how good that will look. I know there's mirrored stick-on stuff but it's darn expensive and I'm only in need of a 10mm square piece!

Hmmmm?

Cheers guys,

Ben

Ben , here's a nice look at the interior of a restored 1943 jeep . Its got a couple of nice close ups of the pedals , dash , gear shifts , engine .......should help a lot .

Nice looking build at this stage .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRAXTxxypaE&feature=related

Hello folks,

I know it's about time but here we go - a first proper photo update on my Willys MB Jeep!

So far all is good. Obviously it's going to be a very quick build due to the low part count (one little sprue containing 2 x clear  headlight lenses  and 2 x clear pieces for the for the windshield), 2 x smallish sprues in green plastic and the truck body is separate so not a lot).

The chassis literally fell together and all that remains of that part is the addition of the front bumper and a few more engine parts (battery etc.).

Onto the cab/upper portion the radiator and headlights are in place. I used two tiny squares of tinfoil pushed into the headlight cups with a match head then trimmed followed by the clear lens. The effect is a good one and gives a good impression of reflective lenses within the headlight casings.

Finally, the lack of any pedal detail by Tamiya is surprising and imo needed remedy as it's an essential part!

There was a faint moulding where the accelerator would have been so I cut some thin plastic to sizes to suit and popped on a new slim accelerator pedal, larger brake pedal and a more raised clutch pedal. 

The chassis is not glues to the body yet and wont be until much later and the pedals are only lightly affixed with a lick of Tamiya cement so if I'm told they need changing / modifying then that will be an easy task (I'm not too concerned with getting them looking perfect as when they are in place and painted/weathered they will blend in nicely

Please, tell me what you think so far:

Chassis Note - all dryfiited for photo:

Well I hope you like her so far. I could have had this this assembled and painted to some degree by now seeing as it was the Easter long weekend but I'm happy doing a section at a time to stretch it out and to avoid silly mistakes. It seems nearly everyone has built a Jeep at some point and if possible I'd like this to stand out a bit. I'd like a good base and having a total length of just over 3.5" (the Jeep) then a small round effective base would be an easy task.

With the Verlinden stuff that Andy is kindly sending to me I'm going to build, paint and decal a basic Jeep then see what Resin extras I get before choosing what I want to use, painting and adding them and THEN hitting it all over with some light washes and pigment.

As usual, any suggestion or comments are more than welcome!  I'm way out of my normal build 'comfort zone' here but  reckon this will be a pretty cool build!

Thanks again guys and enjoy the rest of your weeks,

Ben  

Thanks Ben, i'll check out the Stug.

Shell, any time buddy.

Thanks caSSius. I haven't had chance to use it yet, but i am deffinatly going to give it a try.

The plans for your Willys sound great Ben. I particularly liked that technique shown for the t-handles...I'm gonna have to write that down...I'll be watchin' on the side.

And Bish, you've guessed correctly about the Silly Putty; it will get much more pliable as you work it and transfer heat from your hands.

Cheers,

Thanks for the English lessons lads

Hey Bish,

What caught my eye first was Andy using it on his current StuG build to create an usual paint scheme. A grey basecoat with fine strips of Sillyputty all over it then sprayed white - He's hairsprayed it so he can attach the solid white when weathering to show the white coming away.

I've used Blu and White tack with success several times BUT every time it's been difficult to get a hard edge like Andy got with his SillyPutty as the Tack would lift and not stick effectively around the edges to be masked so I want to give this a try.

I'd like to give it a try so I'll be sure to give it a mention on the next build I use it on.

Andy's build is his current StuG F/8 so check out the photos - you'll be impressed!

Cheers matey,

Ben

I was sent some silly putty by garylee. I haven't tried it yet, but it doesn't seem as pliable as what i noramly use, Bostik White tac. maybe i need to work it a bit. From photos i have seen when it is applied, i thought it was more fluid like than what it is. So i will be interested to see how you get on with it.

The only place i have seen silly putty is on Amazon, but i can't recall if that was from UK or US sellers. But if you like it, try there.

Shellback

Ok , so far i have laddy = friend . Now then cracker ........something top notch ?

He he he!

'Laddy' is more of a North England/Scottish term but is basically the same as 'lads' i.e. "hi lads" or "where we off to tonight lads" when about to hit the beers with your buddies. Or maybe a singular like you might refer to one person as "the lad who builds the 1/72 stuff".

'Cracker' - something good! Often used when referring to attractive women i.e. "corr, she's a right cracker!"  

That's the British slang lesson for tonight!

As for a change of pace Bish I'm determined to get a few 'non German' builds in my cabinet. The Jeep is going to be a nice little build which will look nice in the old cabinet! Lovely kit and my good chum Mr Andy Deafpanzer picked up some Silly Putty for me as it looks better than Blu-Tack and I can't find it here anywhere and he has also found his Jeep Stowage set from Verlinden which is just brilliant - I'm going to take that off Andys hands and the set looks great (cheers Andy)!

The stash is running low but contains two builds I want to hit this year. 

The first is Bronco's Comet with Accurate Armour Resin Mantlet/barrel and Stowage upgrades and the second is Dragon's IC Hybrid Sherman Firely which looks like a particularly excellent but difficult kit. I'm not sure if I'm up to it and don't want to end up ruining it so I'm going to speak to the Sherman man at my model club called Alan as he'll be able to help me along.

The Jeep is a nice little de-stressing build before I attack something bigger and more involved!

The new(ish) Bronco Chaffee has caught my eye and I'd like a crack at a Hobbyboss Pershing as Alan builds a lot of them in different livery and they look great. Another Tiger is on the cards too after the success of the Initial Production Dragon one I just built.

So far I've only made a start on the chassis and got the basics together. Tomorrow I'll get stuck in and get some sub-assemblies made up. This weekend has just been manic so hopefully I'll get some decent bench time in tomorrow.

Cheers lads (aaaah)

Ben

Shellback

Ok , so far i have laddy = friend . Now then cracker ........something top notch ?

You got it. We will have you lot speaking proper English before you know it

Ok , so far i have laddy = friend . Now then cracker ........something top notch ?

Interesting change of pace Ben. Nice tip for those bonnet hooks. Looking foerward to another craker build from you.

Shellback

Ben here's a video that has a nice closeup of the windshield and hood latches . Pause it about 15 seconds in .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=jy602Hwua2U&feature=fvwp

There is a slit in the canvas windshield cover that allows the hooks on either end of the windshield to protrude from the cover so that the latches can be attached .

Cheers guys!

Not confusing at-all JM, just VERY helpful Like I said I want to learn about Allied stuff and this is ideal.

Having just checked the video kindly posted by Shellback at 15 seconds that's ideal and as Lasse said, the box art portrays it perfectly too - I noticed that last night!

I think I'll have to make up 4 'T' hooks using the method shown earlier in the thread - sorted.

I've seen loads of pictures of Jeep models (Tamiya mainly) and I'm surprised at just how many people decide to omit this simple scratchbuilding step  which makes a HUGE difference at the end of the build and even gives a little talking / focal point.

I haven't even had time to get my butt into gear to get things underway so I'm starting very shortly plus it's Easter Monday holiday tomorrow so I'll get a few hours in then, too

Thanks again guys,

Ben

Ben here's a video that has a nice closeup of the windshield and hood latches . Pause it about 15 seconds in .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=jy602Hwua2U&feature=fvwp

There is a slit in the canvas windshield cover that allows the hooks on either end of the windshield to protrude from the cover so that the latches can be attached .

Yes the windshield retainers,the T hooks, would be visible.Like I said the cover had small circular holes so the T hook could attach to the windshield frame.The covers slip over the windshield from the top and cover both sides of the windshield with the canvas.The T  hooks have a pivot mount on the hood end that lets them point up vertically to attach to the clips that mount on the edge of the windshield frame.If you look closely at the excellant picture on the Tamiya box top it shows how the windshield rests on the two wooden blocks on the hood and the position of the T hooks.The T hooks all have a spring built into the shaft of the T that exerts a down ward pull holding both the windshield and the hood in place.Hope I am not confusing you just trying to help.

Ben, check the box-art. You can clearly see them there, holding the windshield down.

jeepman

Hinksy,remember when you install your covered windshield that the T latches on top of the hood were used to hold the windshield down.There are two small clips on the windshield frame that the T latches hook to.The covers had circular holes that corresponded to the clips.So install your hood clips after your windshield.I am in my third year restoring a 1 to 1 scale 1943 Willys MB.Good luck with your project.I will be watching it.

Cheers for that JM,

When the windshield (with cover) is down would the windshield retainers be visible - I'm assuming the windshield retainers are mounted on the two things in the hood, about 10mm either side of centre on the models hood?

Cheers buddy and good luck with your project too!

Ben

Hinksy,remember when you install your covered windshield that the T latches on top of the hood were used to hold the windshield down.There are two small clips on the windshield frame that the T latches hook to.The covers had circular holes that corresponded to the clips.So install your hood clips after your windshield.I am in my third year restoring a 1 to 1 scale 1943 Willys MB.Good luck with your project.I will be watching it.

Hi guys,

That is perfect Shellback! I shall most definately try that method

I won't need to pose the hood open as the Resin windshield and cover will be fixed in place laying flat on the hood.

I'm hoping to make a start on the chassis later today.

Cheers guys,

Ben

Ben , yup the little ole Jeep is a nice project . I built the Italeri kit and it also lacked the hood latches .Here's how i made mine .

I made the "T" shape by bending a strand from some picture haging  wire   .

I filled in the gaps by flowing c.a. over the wire .

Not perfect but this is how it looks with paint .

 Heres the corresponding latch on the hood .

The finished latches.

Who doesn't like Willys Jeep?!?!?  Count me in as usual I will be following.  I have built several when I was a boy but none after my return so I probably will buy a set soon.  Down the memory lane we go...