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DML Brummbar Mid COMPLETE 07-30-12

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:36 PM

Mike, yes indeed! It's my reward for good behavior during the week!

Tread, not yet...tracks are still a good way down the road but will get there eventually!

My wife had a school event this evening so I was left home alone...and decided to sneak in a little extra bench time to take advantage of the situation!

Step 8 is a prep step that assembles the side air intakes and the rear engine deck top as well as the rear plate...and then puts them all off to the side until Step 17. There's no real reason to wait that long so I went ahead and assembled the rear hull and installed it into the lower hull. The Atak set includes a replacement rear hull plate but it doesn't have the spare wheel holder parts attached to it, so those will have to be transplanted from the DML kit part later on. It's also important to note that in Step 8 the diagram isn't very clear in how the step plate over the muffler/exhaust installs...it has three L-shaped support arms that install to the back of the plate and support the plate over the exhaust. The Atak side panels were added as well at this point.

The installation into the hull in Step 17 includes the install of the rear bulkhead, the tread plate floor for the fighting compartment, and the gun mount base. The base is a 4 part affair that has to be assembled just so or it won't be possible to fit it into the hull in the correct position. You cannot assemble it outside the hull as the diagrams indicate and then install it as one piece into the hull. This is due to the way the two side supports interact with the hull...they have slots in their sides to fit into the angled "ribs" molded into the lower hull and also slots on their feet that match up with tabs on the hull floor. You have to install these first, then position the top part, D7, within the hull at a slight angle to clear the fender edges, then turn D7 to sit properly and flush on the side feet. The front support should be glued to D7 prior to doing this. It took me a couple of different attempts to figure this out, hence the glue marks on the hull floor you see in the photo.

The interior tread plate part, D6, should then install into position between the rear bulkhead and the gun mount. A test fit showed this was no problem and while my back was turned to take the photo above, my beloved boxer Brenda somehow managed to get hold of the plate. She only had it for a few seconds but the damage was done as she's a "power chewer"!

It's not a big loss as I wasn't planning to display the hatches open for the interior and this sealed it for sure if I did have any doubts otherwise!

Next up will be working on the 15cm gun assembly.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:43 PM

wbill76

http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Brummbar/Step12.JPG

WOW!  I never thought about using dogs to create perfect battle damages like you did.  Thanks for the excellent tip!  

Great process there... Yes

Andy

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:45 PM

Battle damage made by your dog ? I had a cat do that to a B-24 prop once ....................Super Angry

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 11:46 AM

Andy, yes indeed...her teeth approximate shell damage quite nicely but the method is a bit, shall we say, uncontrollable? Big Smile

Carl, cat's are evil...they bide their time, hatch their schemes, and then strike!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 12:42 PM

deafpanzer

 

 wbill76:

 

http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Brummbar/Step12.JPG

 

 

WOW!  I never thought about using dogs to create perfect battle damages like you did.  Thanks for the excellent tip!  

Great process there... Yes

Might want to submit that to the forum tips. LOL Perfect for schurzen.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 5:55 PM

LOL Eric! Brenda does have the nickname of "trash compactor" as she will pick up and chew on just about anything that catches her attention. Thank goodness for rawhide bones! Wink

  • Member since
    November 2010
Posted by IanBeginner on Thursday, May 17, 2012 5:57 PM

Wild Bill:

I plan in the future to do some Tamiya tanks that require zimmerit and I was wondering about your use of Atak Zimmerit. What is it exactly and where can I order it online if it is something I can use?

Ian

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:10 PM

Ian,

Atak zimmerit is produced by a company in Poland. Here's their website: http://atakmodel.istore.pl/en/authorization/index , you can order directly from them or look for their products with various online retailers depending on your country/location if needed. It's a resin product and they don't come with specific instructions so you do need to be a little knowledgeable about the vehicle you're working on. They produce sets that are specific for certain kits so make sure you get one that's right for the kit you're looking to work on to avoid potential issues. HTH!

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Lehigh Valley PA
Posted by garrand on Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:26 PM

Also consider what upgrade parts you're using. I picked up Dragon's StuG IV Early kit, and the Atak Zimmerit. My Dragon kit did not come with suspension mounts (the instructions showed them integral with the lower hull, but my kit had the newer lower hull ... without the associated correct suspension parts!). I chose at this time to use the Tasca Pz. IV suspension, and the Atak set did not fit correctly anymore. ..

 

Damon.

"Nicht kleckern, klötzen!"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, May 20, 2012 7:53 PM

This weekend's round of bench time was very productive and work continued on the gun and superstructure. I decided to build the gun first as it's designed to go into a static mount in the fighting compartment and everything else revolves around it as a result in terms of fit and placement.

That meant skipping to Step 11 which assembles the gun and breech as well as the collar and recoil cylinders. The breech block can be left movable if you so desire and some sanding is necessary on the join halves of the breech but otherwise it's a straightforward step.

Step 12 combines the elements from the previous step and adds the recoil guards. Step 13 assembles part of the gunner's side of the gun mount by adding a choice of two different styles of traverse gears. I chose the simpler type for expediency. 

Step 14 completes the gunner's side of the mount with the addition of the gunner's seat, the gun sight, and the elevation wheel. There's also a toothed gear that is added that the instructions indicate shouldn't be glued...I tried this out and found it to be unnecessary to allow the gun to elevate and omitted it since I'm closing up the interior anyhow. I suppose if you were really really careful with the glue you could find a way to make the gear actually "turn" with the gun as it elevates but it's not essential to the gun assembly in the long run.

Step 15 is the moment of truth, it adds all of the previous components together along with the base and ball mantlet to create the full gun assembly. The fit on E19, the ball mantlet, was too tight for the gun barrel to slide through so I had to trim and sand it with a round needle file on it's inside diameter to get the gun barrel to fit. Even then it was an extremely tight friction fit and a challenge to get it to slide all the way down. It also has to fit tightly over the side hinge points of the gun mount and the fit has to be just so for it all to work. I got it as far down onto the mount as I could make it go but I suspect that it needed to go about another 1mm or so to actually fit correctly. Unfortunately the friction fit made it impossible for me to remove it and try again...and this in turn resulted in some issues down the road in the following steps.

I added the interior plate from Step 9 and did a test fit with the gun mount dry-fit in place and sure enough, the mantlet interfered with the fit, causing the rear of the superstructure to not align properly with the fenders and engine deck...a major problem. This meant that the interior ring around the ball mount needed to be trimmed back to allow the mantlet to clear it. This was done with careful trial-and-error and much trimming and sanding.

This led me to wonder if the same issue might be encountered with the exterior circular plate, so I added the Atak zim panels and resin plate and did a test fit. It too had the same issue, so same trimming and sanding treatment was called for. I also used some Squadron White putty thinned with liquid cement to fill small gaps around the circular plate and create a unified look with the rest of the zim panels.

I decided to go ahead and zim the rest of the superstructure before installing it to the hull to make sure I didn't run into any more fit issues. I decided that I would not mount the schurzen rails and opted instead for just the small mount tabs as called out in Step 21. The tabs were installed first and the zim panels added after followed by the lifting hooks and pistol ports from Step 9. Small amounts of trimming were needed here and there and lots of test fits with the lower hull, so I'm glad I decided to zim first. I also opted for the command version "adler's nest" 2nd antenna mount and added that from Step 18.

With all that out of the way, it was time to install the superstructure to the lower hull. I used a combination of regular glue, liquid glue, rubber bands, and finger pressure to get a good join all around.

Next up will be the roof and small details and then I'll start in on the tracks.

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Sunday, May 20, 2012 8:17 PM

Bill the detail on the gun mechanism is an armor builders dream . Those zim pannels are fitting very well .Yes

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Sunday, May 20, 2012 9:14 PM

Bill - Nice small detail work. Zim is looking good. Hopefully the battle damage of the battle of the *** can be repaired!!

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, May 20, 2012 11:04 PM

Wow Bill, the Brummbar is really coming together nicely!  Can' t say enough good things about that Atak zim!  Your exceptional skills, of course, make it look easy!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by Reserve on Sunday, May 20, 2012 11:52 PM

Sounds like a few mousetraps hidden in this one, you are overcoming them quite well. It's a great thing for you to be sharing all this with the rest of us.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Monday, May 21, 2012 1:18 AM

Seemingly zipping through this one Bill. Gun and case mate look great.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, May 21, 2012 9:23 AM

WOW!  You are definitely on roll here.  The Zimm just looks great!!! Yes  Do we really have to wait until next Sunday for an update? LOL  

Andy

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Monday, May 21, 2012 9:54 AM

Yeah Bill I had to spend a lot of time getting the ball down where it belonged. I had to remove much material on the inside first, little by little, a real pain.

Good progress made otherwise Tex.Yes

Tony lee

 

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, May 21, 2012 10:01 AM

Carl,

Have to agree, Dragon did a fine job with the gun details. Most of it is on the non-hatch side so once installed most of it isn't visible but I could see it being used in say a field-repair scenario for a dio or similar.

Mike, thanks as always for the comments!

BeerErnest, glad you like how it's coming together! The Atak zim (like anything AM) is never 100% and some adjustments are always needed here and there...for example on the left side superstructure angled panel, one of the openings for the schurzen braces was missing and I had to do a little surgical work there to correct it. Still beats having to putty and texture everything yourself IMHO! Wink

Mark, my pleasure to share the good and bad when it comes to a kit...even if it might have been partially self-inflicted! Anything that helps someone else enjoy their build a little better. Thanks for the comments!

BeerEric, so far I've been able to keep up a fairly good pace with it since it's in the building stages. Things will have to slow down a bit once painting and weathering starts but I'm doing my best to keep to a regular schedule with this one. Fingers crossed!

Andy, yes unfortunately, you do have to wait until Sunday...unless something unusual happens mid-week and a window of opportunity opens up. Wink

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, May 21, 2012 11:48 AM

Thanks Tony, we must've been posting at the same time! Glad to hear I'm not the only one who had trouble with the gun. Wink

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Monday, May 21, 2012 1:30 PM

wbill76

http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Brummbar/Step17.JPG

Great photo of the barrel, looking foward to seeing this painted!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 12:18 PM

Thanks Steve, glad to have you along for the ride! Beer

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, May 26, 2012 7:38 PM

The Memorial Day weekend just happens to coincide with the completion of my latest MBA class so in celebration I'm posting an update a day earlier than usual because this is as far as I'm going to get this weekend!

Work continued on the fighting compartment roof as called out in Step 10. All of the hatches were installed in the closed position with the exception of the commander's "rabbit ears" scope hatch. I installed the base for the scope to the roof plate and will add the scope itself later after painting since a test fit revealed I could easily install it through the opening without problems. The plate was attached to the vehicle first and then the hatches and details added to avoid any complications with the fit. The gunner's sight and the driver's periscopes were masked with small amounts of blue tack putty to keep their faces clear during painting and small amounts of Steel painted on their rear faces to provide a little reflective color.

I also paid a little more attention to the ball mount collar...I wasn't 100% satisfied with the fit/gap look around the edge so I used some of the thin resin carrier film from the Atak set and some CA gel to add some strips around the curved portion to tighten things up a bit. Careful trimming with the tip of a #11 blade removed the excess and a little bit of sanding to make sure it was flush was all that was needed to improve it to my satisfaction.

With that done, it was a case of going through the various steps in the instructions and looking for details that needed to be installed before painting and cleaning up the stuff that had been temporarily skipped. I used the kit-supplied PE to add the rear superstructure scalloped braces, installed the fire extinguisher, the rear Notek light, and the rear side tool box. The antenna mounts had their bases drilled out with a #76 finger drill to prep them for the installation of brass antennae later on. I also surgically removed the spare wheel portions from the original kit rear engine deck plate and transplanted them to the Atak plate and added the rest of the mounts with CA gel.

The front fender details also received some attention. The front Bosch light was assembled and installed with some 0.5mm solder added to create the missing wiring conduit. The jack was also assembled and installed into position to round things out. The other fender tools and details will be added later after the hull base coat is applied.

The reason this is where the update stops for this weekend is due to the fact that the next step is the MK track assembly. That's a somewhat repetitive task and won't get done this weekend so there's no point in holding off as a result. Once the tracks are done it will be on to the painting stages!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Saturday, May 26, 2012 7:58 PM

A day early? WOW!  Life is really good!  It is really looking GREAT!  Can't wait to see it primed and painted soon after you are done with the tracks.  Have fun with those MK tracks!  

I neglected to ask you where do you usually buy Atak Zimm sets from... thanks! Beer

Andy

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Saturday, May 26, 2012 9:13 PM

Hi Bill :  ) 

Congrats on your continuing higher education, of course the Bear looks great and I must say it is unusual for your builds to have so much as a ' hiccup' but great recovery and have a great week end !

treadCool

   

 

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Saturday, May 26, 2012 9:21 PM

That zimm sure looks good Bill .Yes

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: ohio
Posted by vonryan on Saturday, May 26, 2012 9:42 PM

awesome work Bill!! i have the hole Family of Brummbars Early Tristar. and mid & late Dragons none with Zim. i like Atak zim, looks better than Zim added to the kit.  just looking at your's tells the hole story why. again AWESOME.

 

Clay

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Saturday, May 26, 2012 10:48 PM

I have the Early Tristar kit too. Looks busy and even a little intimidating.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Sunday, May 27, 2012 6:27 AM

Moving along nicely....the zimm work looks like it has the vehicle pants on and a vest.

As much as you can, enjoy the weekend...

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, May 27, 2012 10:55 AM

Andy, thanks as always! MK tracks are always a milestone with any build. They are worth the effort IMHO but kind of hard to show progress while they are getting assembled. I don't buy a lot of zim sets due to not building very many vehicles that require it, but when I do I usually buy from Atak direct or through Jadar Hobbies in Poland. HTH!

Tread, thank you kindly sir! The MBA program is moving along, only 7 classes to go, so getting near the mid-point. It's been a while since I encountered a problem of this magnitude in a build but they do happen from time to time. I always try to report them as honestly as possible when encountered, fortunately this one wasn't a show-stopper! Wink

Carl, thanks!

Clay, appreciate the comments, sounds like you've got the makings of a full line-up similar to what Tony has going on with the Jagdpanzer IV family.

Mike, that's a good analogy, I like it! All that's missing is a tie around the ball mount. Big Smile I'm enjoying the weekend and setting some time aside for relaxation...in between reading 4 chapters on Economics that is! Stick out tongue

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, June 3, 2012 8:57 PM

Dealing with the track assembly is always a time-consuming and repetitive exercise but the payoff comes in the end in terms of flexibility with the weathering and other finishing steps, so it's worth it. The MK set assembles fairly straightforward, just a matter of removing the links from their sprues, cleaning up the attachment points, and using the supplied jig to assemble the runs. The set includes 2 jigs, so it's possible to work on two sections of 8 links at a time which allows the glue to set up on the pins and guide horns but not cause an interruption in the process. The pins come with their own handles which simply twist off while the guide horn handles need to be removed with sprue cutters and the attachment point cleaned up a bit with a sharp blade tip.

The set recommends 99-100 links for a Pz IV family vehicle but I stopped at 96 links to allow for flexibility when the time comes to install the tracks onto the suspension and will add the extra links needed at that stage. So 192 links, 192 guide horns, and 380 track pins later, the runs are done!

Next up will be painting the exterior and moving on to the remaining details.

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