Tracks look excellent. The build isn't so bad either. 

Nice work on the turrets and tracks!

I am pleased with how they turned out and it was relatively easy to assemble, I will definitely be buying more of them! I finished the right side, using 129 links to get the desired sag.

whoa, Five turrets nicely done.

I've never used Friul tracks either so I'm watching to see how these work out 

Thanks for in the info guys, very helpful.  I've decided not to try the weld seams for this build, maybe I'll try it on something with fewer turrets ;).  Turrets are finished and I've started adding details to upper chassis.  I also just received my Friul Tracks and started assembling one side, what a chore but well worth it.  This is the first time ever using Friul.

Looking good   I too often use stretched sprue to make the welds.  Stretch the sprue to the appropriate diameter, glue on, coat several times with Testors liquid cement (pink bottle) to soften the sprue,  Then stipple with hobby knife to make the weld pattern.  Once you do it a few times it's pretty easy.

Many people use putties with really good results also.

VERY COOL BUILD David. i've always wanted to build one of those for a dio. oh well one day. again AWESOME.

Clay

For the weld seams on the IT-28 Bridgelayer, I got lazy with mine and didn't include the styrene rod or stretched sprue along the channel:

1) made a tool for shaping the softened plastic into a textured 'weld' bead

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/SprueOne/IT_28_bridgelayer/weldseam_rod.jpg

2) scribed with a sharp knife where the weld seam would be unless the kit parts already made one by it's assembled joint

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/SprueOne/IT_28_bridgelayer/weldseam_scribe.jpg

3) after running liquid cement along the channel to soften the plastic, I used the burnishing tool to shape the bead texture

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/SprueOne/IT_28_bridgelayer/weldseam_burnish.jpg

4) This is what it looked like after paint. Not the best I've seen but quick and easy

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/SprueOne/IT_28_bridgelayer/weldseam_weld.jpg

hope this helps

Brings the interior including the engine? For the weld seams, try stretched sprue then apply liquid cement. Let the sprue soften and use a knife or small screwdriver to texture the seams.

Yeah, I thought that it'd be proper to drill those out.  

As for the weld seams on the turret, how would I go about doing so?  Fill and sand the joints, and then put some testors glue on the corner and flatten them down with a knife?  I've heard of stretched sprue being glued along the corners and knifed down as well.  Any tips on this as I have not attempted it before?

Wow, I didn't know this kit had so much stock interior details. I want to get one of these kits now.

Looks like you're boring out the pistol ports and peep slots in the little turrets for added realism too. 

I like Friul tracks, but not the wire they supply as it's too soft. From hobby shops you can get music wire of the same diameter whic is striffer and won't bend as you insert it through the holes. the wire that Friul supplies bends so much that it's for me a pain to work with.

Mike T.

Wow, now that's some complex running gear!

A sure sign you're having fun is when time flies and you forget to take pictures of the progress! Rolling right along with this one David. You might want to fill some of the gaps around the joins of the MG turrets with puttty. IIRC these were welded constructions and ICM didn't mold on the weld seams.

It took me a good part of a day to assemble all of the wheel assemblies and lower chassis, but the fits are very good, and all of the wheels line up very well. Next is the upper chassis, to which I hope I can take more progress shots. I got so into the lower chassis I failed to take any real step by step shots.

Because I prefer to assemble as much as I can before painting, and that if I used the stock tracks, the side shields would make it difficult to paint, so I ordered the friul tracks; plus it will help show real sag. I opted out of the Eduard PE however, I am pleased with the detail of the kit.

The T-35 and T-28 have always fascinated me !!!  I have both of them in the stash.  REALLY looking forward to see what you do with yours, will be watching

These land-ships are always fun to watch come together, looking forward to see what you do with this one!

Ohhhh looking forward to seeing this monster come together!

Hi David. It should turn out great if it looks anything like the BT-35. 

I'll have to look it over again and see if it will work.  I also haven't had luck with CA sometimes, the bond over paint didn't seem good.  Maybe I need to find a better brand of CA, I'm using a generic brand called Extreme Power from Hobby Lobby.  For all of my prepainting glue, I use Proweld.  

And you are right about the grease, it's all over.  I wasn't sure if just soap and water would do but you're suggestion looks like a winner.  Thanks for the tip!

I don't have the T-35 kit but looks like you can CA glue the side armor skirts in place last. With CA you don't have to scrape and a light coat of flat will hide the glue spots.

The ICM box stock indie track links for the IT-28 were really nice to work with so I used them

I'll be watching this build

The last ICM kit I built was the IT-28 Soviet Bridgelayer. I straightened the warped hull with the dunk in hot water technique. 

And for the mold release grease, I soaked and agitated all the sprue trees in Denatured Alcohol and let air dry on a paper towel. The stuff was thick...

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/SprueOne/IT_28_bridgelayer/T-28_DA_agitation_tub.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k290/SprueOne/IT_28_bridgelayer/T-28_DA_dry.jpg