Dragon #6253 Tiger I Late Production-Complete 12-20-13

I had a couple of small details to attend to on the build before paint work could begin. Those details involved the spare tracks. The 7 links that mount to the turret were missing their individual pin details so I used some 0.8mm diameter styrene rod to recreate the pins on each link. I also drilled out the exposed end of each link to show the empty pin hole at the top that's exposed once they are mounted in their holders.

For the front spare track run, I used the remaining links I had from the MK set for the 12 links required there. There weren't enough links left over in the MK set to do this and the turret links and since the workables are better suited here, that's where they got used. The instructions for this little addition are in Step 12 but they parts callout for the support bar is wrong, it should be K3 and not C15.

With that done, I prepped the vehicle for painting by masking off all the suspension arm mount points with blue-tack to prevent paint build-up from causing an issue with the wheel fit later on. I also mounted all the wheels, sprockets, and idlers on toothpicks with blue tack to make it easier to deal with them, fitted a temporary handle to the turret in the form of a cardboard toilet-paper cylinder cut down to size and let the paint fly.

First up was an overall primer treatment using MM enamel Italian Dark Brown. The zimmed surfaces exponentially increase the surface area so more paint than usual was required to get complete coverage.

Next came the base coat using a custom mix of 50/50 MM enamel Panzer Dunkelgelb and enamel Light Gray.

Same treatment was applied to the road wheels, sprockets, and idlers. Since everything's all steel wheels, that sped up the process here a little bit but I still have to paint and detail the contact surfaces for them before they are fully detailed.

Then the real fun began with the application of the camo pattern. First I applied the rot-braun elements using a custom mix of 50/50 MM enamel Military Brown and Leather and then the olivgrun elements using MM enamel Khaki. Final step involved spraying a mist coat/filter of the original base coat highly thinned from a distance of about 12 inches to help tie everything together.

Top down view shows what it would've looked like from the air.

This will get a chance to sit and cure up thoroughly before moving on to the next phases. Still a lot of work to do in the details department as well with the tools and suspension.

That camo looks sweet Bill.

Thanks Eric! Had to work a little at a time to avoid getting to repetitious with the squiggles...that's the trouble with trying to create something that's supposed to be disruptive, the mind's eye wants to set a pattern with it!

"Here comes the paint, do do do dooooo"

It all starts to come together.  The best part of every build!

Brian

Man that's looking soooo good Bill! I better make sure to renew my FSM subscription!  This one is sure to be in a future issue!

Thanks Brian! Always a huge hurdle to clear to get the major paint work done.

Ernest

Hey,that camo is making me dizzy,it does look good Bill

Thanks Anthony! Don't stare at it too hard or your eyes will stay that way!

I really "graben" that camo scheme Bill!

Thanks IB!

LOVE your base-DY color, Bill! That's a nice pale Tigger!

The camo is very imaginative and well-rendered, too---should look great under some weathering!

OOOhh that cammo is going to look great!

Great steady hand, so nice the flow of colors.

Liked it!

Thanks Karl! I've found the 50/50 mix for the DY makes the ideal foundation for later weathering and such, there's still a lot more to do with this one in the details department for sure.

Garzon

Not a lot of photos in this update round but definitely a lot of progress. I got the tracks ready for more work later on by airbrushing a base coat of MM enamel Burnt Umber. This is just the first step in their finishing and weathering process of course.

Attention then shifted to the details for the hull. All of the tools and tow cables that I'd cleaned up earlier were now hand detailed and installed. The larger tow cables proved more of a challenge than I expected as they kept wanting to lift up out of their mounts on the rear deck. Some finger pressure and liquid glue provided the necessary persuasion to get them to ultimately settle down.

Next up will be continuing work on the remaining hull and turret details before moving on to the suspension and tracks.

The little details are making it come to life Bill!

Thanks Ernest! It's always one of those stages where so much time goes into little things but it's all worth it in the end!

She is getting two thumbs up from me so far Bill!

Brian

Thanks Brian!

Bill, great application  of that camou.  Do you have a separate airbrush for fine lines, or a fine tip set you would interchange with?

regards,

Jack

VERY COOL

Love that scheme bill, she's looking great.

Jack

Thanks ps1 and Bish always good to see you drop in and comment!

More progress to report in the details department. Following on from last week's efforts, I turned my attention to the remaining hull details first. The spare track run for the front hull and the turret individual links were given a light dry-brush of MM enamel Steel followed by a wash of MM enamel Rust. Then some burnt orange and raw umber artist pastels were worked into their finish to add some additional depth/layering. I also detailed the hull MG and coaxial MG in the turret using a base coat of MM non-buffing Metalizer Gunmetal followed by a light dry-brush of Steel. Rounding things out, I also detailed the exhausts using a base of metalizer Gunmetal followed by a heavy wash of enamel Rust and then some artist pastels using the same colors as the tracks as well as black for some soot staining.  

The rear hull also received some attention. The tools were installed in their respective positions and the rear Notek convoy light added. I used Tamiya Clear Smoke for the light's body

Efforts shifted back to the suspension and I detailed the road wheels using MM non-buffing Metalizer Steel for the wheels contact surfaces as well as the idlers and sprocket teeth. Some enamel Burnt Umber was stippled on the wheels to simulate scuffing/wear in anticipation of more weathering to come. The innermost wheels were left in primer since they get hidden away and the middle wheel pairs were installed in place while the outer wheels were left off for now to make it easier to weather them separately prior to their installation. Sprockets and idlers are dry-fit only at this point as well.

Tracks also received some attention as well. Dry brush pass with MM enamel Steel followed by a wash of MM enamel Raw Umber to tone things down and get them ready for the pigment weathering later on.

Next up will be dealing with the markings!

Love those tracks Bill, this one is gonna be sharp!

Thanks Eric! Got to love the advantage that workables bring to a build.

Nice, great work on the tracks.

Thanks Bish! Happy belated b-day btw, hope you had a good one!

thanks, ye it was. Got two new kits and went to the village pantomime sat night that my other half's daughter was in, again.

Its looking good Bill, as always.

Question---How do you get the painted tools on after you have painted your armor? I either use elmers or blu tack to hold the tool clamps in place.

Curios as to your technique.

Thanks

IBuild148

Its looking good Bill, as always.

Question---How do you get the painted tools on after you have painted your armor? I either use elmers or blu tack to hold the tool clamps in place.

Curios as to your technique.

Thanks

Thanks IB! If I understand your question correctly, it depends on whether I'm using PE clamps or not. If PE clamps, they are glued to the hull with CA gel and then painted along with the rest of the hull. The Griffon clamps I prefer allow the top portion to be bent over and locked in place without glue after the tools are installed which makes life much simpler. When I'm not using replacement clamps, I glue the tools directly into place using regular Testors glue (or sometimes liquid glue depending) after the tools have been painted/detailed. Because I work with enamels, the glue will bond with the painted surface and once dry the tools are secure in place for the next stages. HTH!