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Dragon #6253 Tiger I Late Production-Complete 12-20-13

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155 replies
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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, November 4, 2013 12:42 PM

Hey,that camo is making me dizzy,it does look good Bill

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, November 4, 2013 10:26 AM

Thanks Brian! Always a huge hurdle to clear to get the major paint work done.

Ernest

, appreciate the kind words, glad you like where it's headed.
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, November 3, 2013 8:48 PM

Man that's looking soooo good Bill! I better make sure to renew my FSM subscription!  This one is sure to be in a future issue!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Sunday, November 3, 2013 6:50 PM

"Here comes the paint, do do do dooooo" Big Smile

It all starts to come together.  The best part of every build! Yes

Brian

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 3, 2013 5:35 PM

Thanks Eric! Had to work a little at a time to avoid getting to repetitious with the squiggles...that's the trouble with trying to create something that's supposed to be disruptive, the mind's eye wants to set a pattern with it! Big Smile

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, November 3, 2013 5:20 PM

That camo looks sweet Bill.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, November 3, 2013 5:14 PM

I had a couple of small details to attend to on the build before paint work could begin. Those details involved the spare tracks. The 7 links that mount to the turret were missing their individual pin details so I used some 0.8mm diameter styrene rod to recreate the pins on each link. I also drilled out the exposed end of each link to show the empty pin hole at the top that's exposed once they are mounted in their holders.

For the front spare track run, I used the remaining links I had from the MK set for the 12 links required there. There weren't enough links left over in the MK set to do this and the turret links and since the workables are better suited here, that's where they got used. The instructions for this little addition are in Step 12 but they parts callout for the support bar is wrong, it should be K3 and not C15.

With that done, I prepped the vehicle for painting by masking off all the suspension arm mount points with blue-tack to prevent paint build-up from causing an issue with the wheel fit later on. I also mounted all the wheels, sprockets, and idlers on toothpicks with blue tack to make it easier to deal with them, fitted a temporary handle to the turret in the form of a cardboard toilet-paper cylinder cut down to size and let the paint fly.

First up was an overall primer treatment using MM enamel Italian Dark Brown. The zimmed surfaces exponentially increase the surface area so more paint than usual was required to get complete coverage.

Next came the base coat using a custom mix of 50/50 MM enamel Panzer Dunkelgelb and enamel Light Gray.

Same treatment was applied to the road wheels, sprockets, and idlers. Since everything's all steel wheels, that sped up the process here a little bit but I still have to paint and detail the contact surfaces for them before they are fully detailed.

Then the real fun began with the application of the camo pattern. First I applied the rot-braun elements using a custom mix of 50/50 MM enamel Military Brown and Leather and then the olivgrun elements using MM enamel Khaki. Final step involved spraying a mist coat/filter of the original base coat highly thinned from a distance of about 12 inches to help tie everything together.

Top down view shows what it would've looked like from the air.

This will get a chance to sit and cure up thoroughly before moving on to the next phases. Still a lot of work to do in the details department as well with the tools and suspension.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, October 30, 2013 5:46 PM

Of course Jack! Glad to have you along for the ride. As for your question on the liquid glue, I typically will use the bottle's built-in brush to let the glue flow via capillary action under the panel. For smaller pieces, I use a smaller ordinary paint brush to do the same trick. HTH! Beer

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Wednesday, October 30, 2013 4:07 AM

Bill, is there room for one more passenger on this bus?

Looking very good, and great tips along the way.  One question about the second use of glue on the zim sections, do you have a special tip on the liquid glue bottle, or some other dedicated tool to apply it?

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Gothenburg
Posted by JohanT on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 5:57 PM

Thanks Bill!

And I was wrong - no U bend but still some flex...

tiger1.info/.../Side-skirts.html

Very Best Regards

Johan

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 5:27 PM

No worries Johan, I went through the same thought process myself and considered the same solution! But, as you discovered, the zim goes all the way down the hull. On the real vehicle the mount points were raised out from the hull enough to allow the fender panels to sit properly once attached but Dragon designed theirs to sit flush to the hull, so that's why the surgery and putty work was necessary for them to sit correctly.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Gothenburg
Posted by JohanT on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 5:22 PM

Hi Bill,
Super blog as always Bow Down

Your comment about having to cut the side zim panels to allow for the mudguards to sit correctly made me think...(don't laugh Stick out tongue)
Got the same ATAC set and I was simply going to cut it off under the mounting brackets. I was not sure if they would have ever applied zim under the side skirts...but they sure did.

The brackets where high enough to allow for a good connection even with the coat applied.
If I am not mistaking the skirts are bent in an U shape at the top allowing for some flex when the bolt goes through into the threaded bracket hole. Need to check tiger1.info.

Very good fix - the cut is not visible at the missing skirt.

Very nice progress - thank You for sharing! 

Very Best Regards
Johan 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, October 28, 2013 7:50 PM

My pleasure Scott! Wink

Garzon

, I always try to provide as much info as possible in the build logs, glad you find it helpful! Beer
  • Member since
    March 2013
  • From: Puebla, Mexico
Posted by garzonh on Monday, October 28, 2013 6:12 PM

Hey, very nice, its the kind of pictures used to make on "how to...." book or magazine.

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: The Great North Woods, Maine
Posted by Chazzer on Monday, October 28, 2013 5:52 PM

WOW!!! This is one great build and an absolute "clinic" for modelers.  I am proud to be following this. Damn, it's good to be back and see this. Thanks for this!!!

ChazzerBlack Eye

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, October 28, 2013 12:38 PM

Tigerman

It's one factor or the other, sometimes both! Wink

IB

thanks for the comments

BeerLars

the hobby has changed a lot in the past decade, no question about it. Welcome back to the hobby and thanks very much for the kind words. Always glad to hear a build of mine provides helpful info to anyone else looking to build the same kit.
LSJ
  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by LSJ on Monday, October 28, 2013 1:45 AM
I am truly amazed... After coming back to the game after 30 some years, it's an absolute joy to see things like this.. Craftsmanship on a level I can only dream of. And a wealth of information in how to build (and patience) in this thread.
And as an amateur historian I am very happy with the precision to historical correct details.


Lars
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Sunday, October 27, 2013 10:45 PM

As always Bill things are looking stellar. Yes

IBuildOne48

Teach modeling to youth!

Scalefinishes.com

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/NMF%20Group%20build%20II/Group%20Badge/NMFIIGBbadgesmall.jpg

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, October 27, 2013 6:43 PM

I guess I always thought the white spots were a result of no glue in that spot. I learn something every day.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 27, 2013 5:56 PM

Eric

thanks as always!

Ernest

the Atak sheets vary slightly in thickness/translucence, so the 'white spots' you're seeing (if I understand correctly) are areas where the sheet is a little thicker and adheres slightly differently to the underlying surface as a result. Some of what you are seeing is the result of different glues as well but mostly it's the thickness difference.

Tony

me too! Wink
  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Sunday, October 27, 2013 5:28 PM

Nice clean construction BillYes

I'm ready for some color.

Tony lee

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, October 27, 2013 4:00 PM

Sweeeeet!!!  The Dragon kit and Atak zim is going together very nicely!  But what are those "white" spots on the zim?  Different glue?

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, October 27, 2013 1:58 PM

Looking impressive Bill.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 27, 2013 1:52 PM

Work moved on to the turret in the latest round with efforts focused on Steps 13 and 14 to build up the main gun and mantlet. The kit includes a metal spring to allow for 'recoil' but it's not essential and I left it out deliberately. I opted for the kit-included turned aluminum barrel. The small locking piece that secures the base of the barrel into the breech and recoil housing, part A9, is shown in the instructions installing upside down. The 'open' end installs down and not up, otherwise you can't get the recoil housing halves together.

The Atak set includes two different resin replacement mantlets that have the zim pattern, The 'monocular' sight version was introduced in April '44 so I went with that one. I replaced the kit coaxial MG34 barrel with a turned brass item from JB Models. I used a small amount of ApoxieSculpt putty to provide something for the brass barrel to hold onto and also blank off the open port since the JB barrel's base diameter was smaller than that of the kit part.

The rest of the gun was assembled per the instructions. The kit provides a choice of muzzle brakes but has the part numbers backward on the instruction diagrams. Parts A11-A17-A18 construct the larger type brake used before April '44 while parts E7-E10-E11 construct the smaller type seen after that date. I used the smaller type to match with the mantlet type selected previously. The brake has a 'D' shaped opening that has to be opened up to a full round opening to mate up with the aluminum barrel, so that was carefully drilled out with a small drill pit and pin vise.

Step 15 adds interior details that I skipped since I'm not showing any of the turret hatches open. Step 16 addresses the turret roof, I chose the roof style used after June '44 and added the hatches and other details. The clear periscopes were left out for now since they can be installed into their spots from the turret underside later after painting.

Step 17 assembles the turret but before I could do that, I needed to add the zim. The Atak set includes the choice of small or large ridge patterns panels and I opted for the larger patterns often seen on Tiger turrets vs. the smaller pattern used on the hull. Panels were added using a combination of CA gel and liquid glue since the curves of the turret put a little more stress on the panels in terms of the surfaces they needed to conform to. Strategic use of some smooth-jaw clips helped get everything to stay put until the glue set. The Atak set provides a replacement resin escape hatch as well as zimmed parts for the view ports on the turret sides. The view port parts aren't the same size as what is molded on the turret, so the turret ports were carefully sanded down until the resin parts sat flush with the zim panel. Then just a little bit of white putty to join everything up to round it out.

Turret roof was then installed in place and the rest of the details added in the form of the spare track holders, the rear turret bin, and the MG AA mount.

Test fit with the hull showed that I needed to adjust the placement of the shovel clamp installed earlier to allow it to clear the bottom of the mantlet. Otherwise everything else played nice.

Next up will be starting the paint work.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, October 21, 2013 8:55 PM

Thanks Bish!

Panther G

glad to have you along as well! Beer
  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by Panther Ausf G 122 on Monday, October 21, 2013 3:06 PM

Nice build, watching your WIP.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, October 21, 2013 2:56 PM

Looking good bill.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, October 21, 2013 1:55 PM

Tony

careful what you wish for! Big Smile

BeerErnest

happy to be of assistance! It's not an uncommon thing for those little types of things to pop up since of course the kit designers can't know what the actual thickness of AM or DIY zim might be, so the parts are designed to fit without that consideration. Makes life just a little bit more interesting but that's all part of the process of adding mods anyhow. Thanks for the comments as always! Beer
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:41 PM

YEAH!!  

Looking good Bill!  Thanks for the heads up on the parts that need mods or replacement due to the zim!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:36 PM

I want MORE

I want more

Tex give us MORE

Tony leeWink

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

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