Meng FT-17 French Light Tank Riveted Turret

More progress on the weathering, this time it was the pin wash turn to make all those rivet details stand out. I used a pointed 10/0 brush and some highly thinned MM enamel Burnt Umber.

After the first pass, I used some clean thinner and the same brush to remove excess wash or adjusted it where needed to get the desired effect.

And just for fun, a quick check with the base to make sure things are still headed in the same direction.

Thanks Karl and of course no problem at all with adding to the discussion on the origins and purpose of dot filters. Always more than one way to skin the cat when it comes to weathering and finishes.

Karl, indeed I do remember that and I believe it was your use of it that caught my attention. I think one of the problems I found with the method you used is that its easy to over do, I have found myself getting a rather over done finish, probably by using two many dots and dark colours. But with Bill's I found I got the exact result I wanted first time out. So, more practice, you can never have to many tools in the chest.

And thanks for the explanation. Knowing the history of these methods can helps explain their purpose.

Bish

Nice work there as always Bill. I have been meaning to ask you about your pin washes. The first time I heard about these, people were using all sorts of colours, red, blue, yellow, white etc. But yours are rather restrained. Is this just a matter of taste or do you think they are for different effects.

I was one of the first to use this "oil dot" method on my Hetzer here on FSM, if you remember that? I got the technique from a then-mostly-unknown Spanish modeler named Mig, who published in "Armor" Magazine, which was sold exclusively through Squadron. Mig came about the technique of using primary colors--red, blue, yellow, etc,-- as a means of simulating the effect of the bright Spanish sun on a vehicle, and the refraction from the brightly colored buildings and environment. (his explanation of it). Bill really rather pioneered the technique here of using more muted colors. I (being a purist ) used to give him heck about it but at this point it has become a "standard" technique in its own right, and his "signature style" if you ask me.

But I agree with you in that I think that the primary color method does lend a more "weathered" appearance whereas Bill's method is more restrained. Different methods for different results. What a wonderful modeling world.

Looking appropriately grimy and gunky, Bill!

Thanks. I had tried the other method in the past, including on my Marder, and I found it did give a darker result, which was fine for a more heavily weathered finish. But the inside of the 251 I followed your idea, but I didn't have raw sienna at the time and so used a different colour, but the effect was just what I have been looking for for ages, especially for a less weathered look. Its nice to get an insight into the reasons for the different methods, and its defiantly a method I really like.

And yes, sorry, I meant the dot filtering.

Bish

Nice work there as always Bill. I have been meaning to ask you about your pin washes. The first time I heard about these, people were using all sorts of colours, red, blue, yellow, white etc. But yours are rather restrained. Is this just a matter of taste or do you think they are for different effects.

Nice work there as always Bill. I have been meaning to ask you about your pin washes. The first time I heard about these, people were using all sorts of colours, red, blue, yellow, white etc. But yours are rather restrained. Is this just a matter of taste or do you think they are for different effects.

Weathering work continues on this little guy, first step was an overall application of thinned MM enamel Raw Umber. This inevitably darkens the finish but is meant to serve as a foundation for the dot filtering step that comes next and not an independent layer per se.

The dot filter application came next. I used small dots of MM enamel Raw Sienna, Light Gray, and the 50/50 base coat mid for the filter. The vehicle is fairly small to begin with, so I used different sized square-tip blender brushes where appropriate to get into some of the tighter spaces.

Will let that sit and the apply a pin wash to help pop out some of the detail as the next step.

Markings are on! The kit-supplied decals are by Cartograf and the only modification I made was to separate the little '5' numerals for the turret from the heart insignia and applying them individually. Some Solvaset was applied to ensure they snugged down tight and once dry, a 2nd coat of Future was airbrushed over them to seal and protect for the washes and weathering to come.

Thanks Mustang! Weathering is always the fun part of a build IMHO as well!

Good going Bill. This all has to be my favorite part of an armor build and one I hope to get alot better at. Without the weathering they look like brand new equipment on the battlefield.   

Started in on the weathering for the actual tank itself. First order of business were the tracks, they received some dry-brushing using MM enamel Steel to add to the previous airbrushed base coat and give them a more metallic look.

The metal contact surfaces of the sprockets and idlers were detailed with some MM non-buffing metalizer Steel and then dry-brushed with MM enamel Burnt Umber. Using an old worn out brush,  I also stippled some of the Burnt Umber onto the suspension and lower hull areas as the first round of weathering to create some scuffing/scratching and wear and tear. More to come in this area of course before it's all said and done!

Next up will be a coat of Future to seal it all up and allow for the markings to go down.

Thanks Steve!

Russ

The base is looking good, and I have to say I like the idea of a base included in the kit.

 + = YOU'RE ON FIRE

With the trench portion of the base done, I turned my attention to the top side of the base. Once the vehicle is placed, most of it will be covered with the shell crater being the main point of focus. I added some Mig Russian Earth pigments to the inner rim of the crater and in various places where I wanted to create some deep shadows. Mig Dry Mud pigments helped create more variation in the top side look and feel.

I hand brushed some Future acrylic floor polish to the bottom of the crater to protect the paint work done earlier and let it dry. Then a thinned wash of Afrika Braun was added and built up through multiple doses to create some muddy water effects. More Future was carefully hand brushed over the Braun wash to round out the 'puddle' accumulation.

I think I've got the base where I want it now, so will let it sit and turn back to getting the FT17 to match up.

Thanks Bish and Karl!

Perfunctory "attaboy" here, Bill. lol.

Seriousl--it's looking way cool. :)

Looking great there Bill and looks really nice on that base.

Thanks Mustang! Lots of different ways to tackle things when it comes to armor builds, sometimes things are forced on you in terms of the order, other times you have a choice! Glad to hear you're having as much fun as I am in terms of following along.

Things look like they are coming along nicelyon this one Bill. I like popping in on these WIP's like this with armor because I get to see the processes involved. Stuff like the details added on before the weathering process and all. With aircraft I add all that stuff last but can see where the details added before the weathering takes place benefits the outcome. Those MIG productions washes are tha bomb. I've been using those things religiously and havent been disappointed yet. This build here is a true blast to watch come together.

Continuing on with the base work, I decided the trench area needed some help in the pigments department. I used a combination of Mig Dark Mud and Dry Mud applied as dry powders with stiff bristled brushes and worked it around until I was happy with the depth/shading it was giving me.

Then the wood braces were permanently installed along with the sand bags and the glue allowed to set. Once that was solid, I blended them in where appropriate using more of the pigments.

Shifting gears a bit, I went back to the vehicle and did some of the detail work there. The sledgehammer, shovel, and pick were hand detailed and installed where needed. Leather straps were painted and detailed and the muffler/exhaust worked on and installed as well. The folded tarp was added to the tail to round things out in that department.

So here's where things stand at the moment as the little scene starts to come together.

Thanks Russ! It's the 'grand-daddy' of modern tanks in terms of the rotating turret and such so it might as well have a cuteness factor built in to go with it.

It's jus' cute as a little puppy......

SprueOne

Silly putty camo looking good and that wood grain effect, real real.

Ixion

Bill..... Sorry, but I'm still confused here. I have a jar of Model Master Enamel Gunmetal #1795, (not the Metalizer), in my hand. I stirred it up and looked at my stir-stick. I see flakes of metallic aluminum floating around in the paint.  Are we actually talking about the same paint here? If so,  my original question still stands. I can understand using a dark blue-gray for shading purposes, but I can't get past the metal sheen.

Bill..... Sorry, but I'm still confused here. I have a jar of Model Master Enamel Gunmetal #1795, (not the Metalizer), in my hand. I stirred it up and looked at my stir-stick. I see flakes of metallic aluminum floating around in the paint.  Are we actually talking about the same paint here? If so,  my original question still stands. I can understand using a dark blue-gray for shading purposes, but I can't get past the metal sheen.

Silly putty camo looking good and that wood grain effect, real real.

Thanks Steve! No need to go sit in the corner...it's all good! There will be more work done on the whole base to tie things together and make it all look more integrated. Right now the wood pieces are just dry-fit into their slots so I could 'see' if they were all looking like they belonged together vs. working on them as individual pieces. I had the same thought as you on the broken wood pieces...the trick here I guess is whether they were recently broken or just older scrap wood used for some of he braces, they all have jagged ends of one type or another as molded. I may do some one way and leave some as-is, not sure. The ones at the top at least will look like they were broken by the tank once it's posed, so those will probably get a different look at a minimum. I've also been playing around a little with some pigments to help make the painted plastic look a little more 'earthy' too, it's all still a work in progress though, so stay tuned!