Nope. He'd just be Karl. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfejV2R2UnQ

the doog

 

 

M. Brindos

 

Karl, Don't ever change. :)

 

 

 

 

Roger that, buddy!

 

 

Hmmmmmmmm... if The Doog lost his Doogness would he still be The Doog?

M. Brindos

 

Karl, Don't ever change. :)

 

Okay. Its been a few days (a sort of vacation away from home). And I'm starting to feel like getting back into all of it.

Thanks for the ideas my friends. I can see what I need to do now.

Karl, Don't ever change. :)

M. Brindos

So here is a question I've been pondering; Do we HAVE to add all of these effects on every build? I'm noticing that they do distract from the detail work I put into building this kit. I want them to enhance that detail and not cover it up. Where do I draw the line?

 

Yeah, I love the pigment powders. I only have the one color so far, but I'm going to expand on that when I get an oportunity.

So here is a question I've been pondering; Do we HAVE to add all of these effects on every build? I'm noticing that they do distract from the detail work I put into building this kit. I want them to enhance that detail and not cover it up. Where do I draw the line?

I suppose this is a question we must all face eventually. I do know that this build must be finished with the effects I've started, but it overall I just want it to look good. I pulled out my G-10 for a change of scenery because I'm needing to back away and regain my focus with all of the armor builds I've got going on. I posted in the aircraft section.

I've got another commission build for this next year starring a WWII dump truck, trailer, and dozer combo that my step-mother's father drove in the war. I've got some really good pictures of him and his truck, "Kay", and all of the markings except for a clear view of the registration number. Its either out of frame, or he's standing in front of it.

So the Mirror Models 1/35 US Diamond T 972 Dump Truck Kit No. 35804, is already in the que and the dozer still needs to be ordered. The trailer on the other hand is still being sought after. Any recomendations there would be greatly appreciated.

The new year has some interesting things in store for me it seems.

I hope you all had a very good Christmas, and I wish you a spectacular new year!

Gamera

 

Karl: Your link isn't working, I've had issues with links entered correctly still not showing up on the new site format. I found the tread without any problems though, just enter 'FSM The Doog M48 Patton' into your favorite search engine and it pops right up. In fact I've been finding using an outside search engine with the keyword 'FSM' added generally works better than using the site one. 

 

Hey Mike, good luck. I'm kinda in the same situation, all these new weathering techniques boogle my tiny lil brain. Back in the day I just hit the thing with a wash, drybrushed it, and called it done. Guess that doesn't do the trick anymore! 

Karl: Your link isn't working, I've had issues with links entered correctly still not showing up on the new site format. I found the tread without any problems though, just enter 'FSM The Doog M48 Patton' into your favorite search engine and it pops right up. In fact I've been finding using an outside search engine with the keyword 'FSM' added generally works better than using the site one. 

Mike, I agree with you that I think you need to invest in some more pigments. Use the AB to mist on some various dirt shades from ground up. Even if you completely cover the tank's nbase coat, that's where drybrushing can come in and help you restore base coat color to the high points. It's honestly like weathering or painting "in reverse". Use that technique to get the "flat" weathering effects, and then use corresponding pigment colors to bulk up on the dirt. You can even throw in ground material, white glue and grass material, and real dirt to make a loose "paste" and then apply that to the model on the suspension and wheels, later to conver that with pigments when it dries.

By the way, I also wanted to tell you that the MIG Rain Marks wasn't "dissolving" your acrylic flat--it is designed to be a glossier effect, and what you were seeing was just the way it's supposed to look. Flat, Semi-gloss, and Gloss effects are all part of the weathering process. A totally flatly-weathered tank isn't really any more realistic than a shiny one.

Here's the build and weathering that I did on mine. You might get some ideas out of this article.

Doog's Patton

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/131168.aspx?page=5#1349203

Mike-

I truly uinderstand burnout- I haven't touched a model in weeks. But in regards to the next step in weathering your M48, may I suggest soem dry pastels? I've have good results from using dry artists' chalks, bought at any art supply store, powdering them on very coarse sand paper and applying them both dry and wet. This may be just the ticket for you.

Yes I know he's right. I re-read my last post and it does read like a sarcastic remark and for that, I apologize.

I don't know anything about any Tamiya weathering sticks, ut I do have the weathering sets A-D and with some water they are really neat to work with. Dry, they kinda leave you wanting, but have subtle effects.

I'm not wanting subtle effects though, am I? Nope. You're both right, Karl. I need to let go of the lovely paint job and get my hands dirty and I know it.

I do have one Vallejo pigment and that's what's mostly on the bottom of the tank. That stuff is freakin superb. I really need ot get more of those.

I was really looking more for "you should try this" kind of suggestions, because as I stated, I'm kinda stuck. Modeler's block. But I honestly know that I should just strap on my big boy pants and just get it dirty. I know what I want, but I'm just not getting it in my head that I can. If that makes any sense.

I'll get there guys. I think I'm close to burnout is all. I've been at this solid for months.

Mike, I think that Pawel's suggestions are spot-on. First of all, look at the real thing of M48s in the field. On some tanks, the "base color" is really more of whatever environment they're operating in. You have to forget about the "nice paint job" and just really commit to taking it into the nasty.

I don't know if you've gotten familiar with the whole "pigments" thing yet, and I'm not sure how viable those Tamiya sticks are. To be honest, those things seems to me like just a marketing department's crafty product to get in on the craze, but really, from what I've seen of them, they're not much of a product to really go gonzo with. I think you ought to get some proper pigments and if you want to, hit up a few of my builds here for weathering advice. There's all kinds of techniques I've used, but you have to be brave; half-measures just won't get you any satisfaction. Come on, soldier--this is WAR!

more dirt. got it. Thanks buddy.

Hello Mike!

Sorry to hear you're in a bind!

I'd suggest two things: One: take a good look at the real thing - I mean reference photos on one hand, and, say, dirty cars on the other. I looked some of refererences up for you:

My second suggestion would be to break out your airbrush and do some dusting with the dirt colour - to blend all you have so far together, but also as a base for further actions. Before the dusting dries really well, you can do some really nice water streaks on it with a fine brush dipped in thinner.

I hope it helps you - good luck with your build, have a nice day and Merry Christmas!

Paweł

Okay. I tried using AK's enamel rain marks through my AB. That.... didn't work out so well. When I started using paint thinner to make the stuff streak it started to remove the underlying layer of Acrylic dull cote. UHG!!

I cleaned it up and decided, "Fine. Time to get messy" I made up a dark green/Brown wash with Vallejo and started slopping it around the top of the hull and lower half of the turret.




I really got into then and started wetting the wash down into the cracks and crannies. Just like I did with the M-103. I should have done this step much sooner. After that I got out the Tamiya weathering sets and went to town with the dust, keeping it random and sloppy as I went. I'm still not happy with this as it looks artificial still. I need to just keep slopping on more dirt and dust till it has that natural looking accumulation of crud that it should have.

For now, a few beauty pics I suppose. I'm not done though because I'm not satisfied that this is looking real enough yet. Back me up here guys if you think the same.





Toss some ideas at me. I need a few as it seems I have a bit of a block at the moment.
Thanks for checking-in. :/

Thanks Pawel. I guess I needed to hear that. You're right. I don't have to use the AK if I don't want to. I will follow your advice my friend.

I will practice on something first and see if I like it. The other AK products I have used have been brilliant, so this should be just as good and that's why I was wanting to try it out. I have a 1/72 KT that seems to get used for this purpose regularly anyways.

Yeah I'd have to change the a couple of grill covers and that wasn't practical. Late A2's had the retrofit done to them, but then the cupola and the idler tensioner would have to go and I wanted to keep them. So yeah, alternate universe stuff... GO!

Thanks Pawel. It really is quite obvious.   :) 

Hello Mike!

It looks even better now! You've got distinct borders between the mud patches and the background - this gives an impression of a fresh mud. Maybe it would be of advantage to blend it down a little bit.

I just checked out the instructions for the Revell M48A2 - here:

http://www.revell.de/fileadmin/import/images/bau/03206_%23BAU_M48_A2A2C.PDF

I guess the mods to make it more "kosher" would mean not only knocking down the filter boxes, but also changing at least sections of the rear grille - not really a practical solution. And so I guess you should roll with what you wrote at the beginning of this thread - let's see this as "alternative reality" thing. It probably doesn't give you a good feeling now...

It's exactly this kind of situation that motivates me to do a through research at the beginning of the build and try to get it right from the start - but that's my personal taste here.

And Mike - the fact that you have some paint, doesn't mean that you have to use it! I say use that AK stuff only if you're comfortable with it - otherwise it doesn't make much sense. Of course trying it out on some scrap material to gain this comfort could do the trick.

Anyhow - good luck with your build and have a nice day!

Paweł

I didn't know about the ration boxes either, so that was a good piece of info. Thanks again, Gino!

It was pointed out to me over Fb that it still looks more like an A3 than an A2. The reason being the back engine deck and the air filter boxes being there. Something I knew about, but how the heck was I going to fix that? I couldn't just leave the filters off. But I digress. Its looking like an A2 to me, mostly. I am kinda stuck working with what I have, and that hasn't included a new engine deck for this kit. Meh, it is what it is. An A2/A3 crossbreed.

I still have to get the dust a grime above the fenders and I have some AK rainmarks that I would like to learn how to use. I understand how they should work but I've not used the AK enamel rainmarks before.

What sucks is that I really like how it looks clean lol. But I know it will look better once its dirty. Once again I need to go bold, or go home. lol

I don't know much about ration boxes but the tank is really starting to look like a M48 to me! The weathering looks great to me so far.

Thank you guys, ever so much, for the compliments!

Gino, I fixed things on your suggestions. I do feel better it now.

Pawel, I should have been planning the weathering from the beginning and I'd not have ended up with a paintjob I'm afraid of ruining lol.

Well, I started weathering it yesterday. I've got the pin washes done and the rear deck really started to look good. Then I moved on to pigments and weathering powders on the lower half and got thet mudded-up pretty good.

I connected the electrical and that works very well now ;) and there is not much but weathering the upper half of the tank.

So yeah. Just need to take the next steps.  :)

Hello Mike!

Looks like the life had kept you from posting, but not from modelling - good priorities there! Your tank is looking good, just needs more dirt and abuse! I'm afraid you can run ito trouble trying to dirty up such an impeccably clean tank - from my experience it's better to make it dirty right on with the first layers of paint - that makes it a lot easier later. I mean mixing in some mud colour for the bottom areas of the tank or fading the parts some, that would otherwise look to new or clean, like the track. But I believe you can handle this baby here allright, too. So good luck with it and have a nice day

Paweł

Well, you ain't quick, but talented, you is, Mike... That light lighting up is one of the coolest little details I've seen in a long time. Nice detailing on the rest of this build!

You should be building models in LA for Hollywood.  As for your M-48, I'm speechless!

Toshi

If you are still going to use the rectangular, flatter, old-style MRE boxes, at least put them upside down or some other way so you can't read "Meal Ready to Eat" on the top.  The C Rations boxes did not say that.

The box in the basket is a flat rectangle, but I've got more and can swap out that squarish one easily enough.

The tail lights... yeah, I know. [sigh] dangit. I'll fix that.

Thanks Gino.  :)

It looks like it came out really nice.  I like the weathering and how the track came out as well.  Two issues I see with it though.  First, only the left upper oval on the tail lights should be red.  The others should be dark slits and are part of the black out light system.

M60, but the same set-up.

The second is the ration boxees.  They look like modern MRE boxes.  The rations at the time the M48A2 was in use were C rations.  The C ration boxes were less square and more of flattened rectangles.

Verlinden and others make C ration boxes in 1/35.

Wow. Seems I've not updated this thread in far too long. I've made significant progress since the last post.



The tracks have worked out a treat and look far, far better than the kits rubber band offerings.





The VSS-1 searchlight didn't show any fogging after I used super glue to secure it so long ago, but it did develop a mystery crack in the lens that wasn't there when I masked it before paint. Good thing I've got a cover made for it.  ;)



I've been working on the stowage recently and I've got that mostly sorted now. The stuff in the basket isn't glued in so If I feel like making changes that option is still open, for now.







The clear gloss hasn't fully cured yet in that bucket. I suspect that will take another day to completely cure and then I'll have to follow that up with a few more applications to get it nearly level because I'm using Vallejo clear gloss for the effect.




So yeah. I'm fairly happy with it so far. I haven't applied any washes or weathering yet and I'm feeling the usual nervousness about possibly screwing it up. This far into the build could really be disastrous.

Thanks for checking in mates!  Happy modelling, and even happier Holidays!!

Thanks Gamera!  :D  I'm not quite back on track as I've been completely distracted by an M1A1 for the last week lol.

Razzie, We'll just have to see where I go with the weathering. I'm still thinking about that part. I've got to get the rest of the painting squared away before that happens and I really doubt I'll be doing any really cool weathering like you do.

I'm thinking my weathering will be mostly just dirt so far.