"Pulling a Baer".....   now that made me giggle.

I like the LED too, very cool.

Thanks DM. I'm just not feeling all that productive. Sluggish.

But I have been working on the searchlight so I can finish that up.

I have a picture of the afore mentioned searchlight cover. I think it looks pretty cool but since I made it removeable it is lacking the retention straps.

And I wired up a longer set of wires just before I tested the connections and sealed up the unit. Just a few more parts and it's ready for primer.

:)

Just don't get stressed and burn ya'self out..... 
                                              

                           I've done that several times.

Thank you ever so much Gentlemen.  :)

Heres a bit of an update. I haven't been all that productive because I'm not feeling well.

I've got the AFVC tracks all built up and fitted, but I'm thinking I need to use these on the M-60.

The angle on the final drives and drive sprocket are right where I want them.

Started adding some crude welding to some of the fixtures.

Then I got the lens on the searchlight. I had a little trouble here as the lens is meant to sit flush into the housing. Unfortunately the bulb housing is in the way of it sitting exactly where it's supposed to. I had to build up some super glue around the edges and then sand and repeat until I got it flush. This means I lost the bolt head details, but I'm not going to worry about that. I'm just hoping I don't have a lot of frosting on the inside of the lens now.

Also I've got a set of 90mm brass casings that will enhance things later.  :)

I can remember that spotlight coming on at night illuminating what seemed like all of South Vietnam. It was comforting, at first, then you realized "they" saw it too..........

Good job sir!

M. Brindos

He he he he! Yeah. Isn't that neat?!

Sorry, sometimes I'm just a little kid. :)

I'm always a little kid............   (der).

YES on the LED 

He he he he! Yeah. Isn't that neat?!

Sorry, sometimes I'm just a little kid. :)

Hahaha! That searchlight just made me giggle out loud. Love it!

I believe this build has officially crossed over into 'awesome' territory. Well done.

--Chris

Thanks DM!! These Pico LED's are so perfect for this stuff. I've always wanted to light one of these searchlights up! I feel like a kid in a candy store lol.

                                        

                                   Gonna look awesome!

Continuing the work I started on the electrical from this morning.

I'm using the ANVSS-1 from the AFVC M-60A1 because it has a lot more detail than the Tamiya one does. Although the Tamiya ANVSS-1 is a lot simpler to build. I had to steal the mounting hardware from the Legend Productions set because I used the AFVC part for the ANVSS-3 that will be going on the M-60.

I have some ancient BMF that should work well in here. I used it on the ANVSS-1 for the M-103 and it turned out alright after a second try lol. So now that I have the Pico LED installed it was ready for the next steps of dry fitting and testing.

I think the wires will be long enough to accomplish what I'm trying to do here. :D

This is without any BMF in there yet. Now that I know it all works it's time to get it all finished up.  :D

You honor me. I'm always picking up things from you guys to improve my own builds, so I guess this shouldn't come as a shock lol. But still, I look up to many of you and I rufuse to think of myself as better than anyone.  :)

I am making significant progress because I'm not bogging myself down in crafting too many extra details. I should have filled in the backs of all of the suspension arms and I may still yet do that. I just wanted to make some progress as the M-60 is still waiting for more reference photos and scratch building to take place before I can move forward again.

Because that build is more accurate it does take more time to make progress in any significant way. This one has been more fun.  :)

Thank you for your input! I hope I can continue to entertain all of you with my oddball M-48 build lol.

M. Brindos

I am truly flattered, Gamera. There are literally hundreds of builds based on this kit and you want to use mine as a reference later?! I'm not even building mine accurately!

I will need to process this.   :D  [stunned]

 

Lol, well whenever I get around to them I'll probably be using several builds including yours 

You're making some real progress there. 

I finished up the other side of the wheels last night. I don't have them chipped or roughed out yet, but the seams are gone. This morning I installed the power switch for the searchlight.

Now to finish up the return rollers and all of the fittings on the lower hull.

I spent the better part of my day working on the suspension. Everything lines up okay and I'm pretty happy with the results so far.

I've got the road wheels done and in these pictures I just have the return rollers sitting there. All of these are just dry fitted and none of the wheels are glued on yet. I'm still planning on changing a couple of them out.

Unless, of course, the spares I have don't fit or line up right. I'm really hoping for the ease of all of these modifications to continue. Wish me luck.

Hmmm.....

I am truly flattered, Gamera. There are literally hundreds of builds based on this kit and you want to use mine as a reference later?! I'm not even building mine accurately!

I will need to process this.   :D  [stunned]

Super cool Mike! I recently won this Tamiya kit in a raffle and have one of the new Dragon ones in the stash too. Will be refering back to this if I ever get around to building either of them. 

The texture has been added to the lower hull.

I back-dated the drive sprockets.

And now that I have some casting texture on there I glued the final drive assemblies on the hull with a slight downward angle.

This is going to look neat.  :)

Right! You just keep those little tidbits of info coming. You haven't been wrong at all up to this point and I value that kind of information.  :D

Yeah, I got that hole sorted out. It was easier than I thought it would be.

I've got the rear deck grill sorted out. There was a lot of dry fits before it settled into place.

 I've got all the gaps puttied up and that should be ready to reshape and clean up later today.

I filled a large gap under the rear deck grills with plastic card and Bondo. This looks off but it should be okay after I texture this are later to make it believable.

I've also removed the incorrect left side gas filler cap and filled the hole with a bit of sprue from the kit. This should clean up nicely later.

And the last thing I did was to start rebuilding the rear deck hinges.

And I found a couple of Ep marks on the face-side that had to be filled in. I'm also going to make new grab handles for it. I accidentally knocked one off and lost it so wire will be a good replacement.

Thanks for looking! :)

Mike - I got you on that build philosophy - it's fine with me, and it's your model anyhow! Just wanted to add some info in case somebody finds it interesting. That gap above the sprocket sure is something to fill. But now I believe you'll be OK. Good luck with your build and have a nice day!

Paweł

Ginormous hole is now filled. Once this cures overnight I'll start filling and shaping it.

That's all dry fitted and unfinished so far, Pawel. Yeah, I figured there was not supposed to be any tensioner rollers, but they look cool, don't they? lol

I pulling a Baer here, and building up my own tank. I am fully aware of what I am doing and I'm okay with it. But I will modify those drive sprockets later. I just have them there for the pictures as that was how I was dry fitting things and making sure I had the room to play with. They are still unassembled.

This isn't going to be accurate, Pawel. This is an alternate version of my own design. Because I can.  :D

But by no means take any of what I just said as a brush-off for your advice. I value your advice because you're right on the mark with it. I still plan on using it so keep it coming, my friend.  :)

Hello Mike!

I'm happy you're havin' fun!

Now the tensioning rollers were there on the -A2 tanks and gone on the -A2C and -A3 tanks. But the fittings were the same, left with empty holes - so Tamiya is somewhat accurate here. Granted, it looks funny.

You might want to check the sprockets again - I believe they should each have two disks and the track guide horns go between these. You also have M60 style sprockets there, with those recessed rings on them. On my M60 I used some light sanding to convert them back to M48 style.

Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

I got further into building the suspension last night and then again this morning. Its all sorts of wrong lol. Well I'm going to make the best of it regardless and I'll make it look cool.  :)

First thing I noticed is that there are locations for the tensioner rollers, but no arms or rollers supplied in the kit. Not sure why this was left on the lower hull, but I'm going to have a little fun building because of it.

Once again the left-overs from the Dragon M-103 come in very handy. I had extra suspension arms and idler wheels and I think I've put them to good use here.

I used some lengths of paper clip to pin the pieces together and add strength and support to my concoctions.

I then worked out how I'm going to fit the final drives to the hull and the drive sprockets. I came up with a combination of Dragon and Tamiya parts with Def Models slotted drive sprockets made to fit the Tamiya kit. The way I have these mounted up will allow me to adjust the final angle of the final drives/sprockets to get them just where I want them without any problems. I'm going to have them angled downward slightly like I should have done on the M-103, showing the influence that the developement of the M-103 had on the features of the M-48. Which never happened in our history, but I'm having a bit of fun playing with alternate time lines here, so give me a little slack.

And another round of dry fitting and alignments made after that.

I'm loving all of this re-engineering. Its fun and it's really going to look pretty cool I think.

I've gotten into the first steps of assembling the hull. Of couse this began with the obligatory filling-in of the holes in the bottom of the hull. I'm still marvelling over the effort its going to take to fill in the ginormous gap in the back over the drive sprockets. Holy poo that's a huuuuuuge area to fill in. Can't skip it.

Luckily I still have a lot of spare parts from the M-103 that I can use to update some of the features on this model. Specifically the rear deck grills. Those are pretty sad in detail compared to more modern replicas. I'll also be trying to use the final drive assemblies to replace the Tamiya ones, but I'm uncertain of how I will get the drive sprockets adapted yet. I have a lot of spare road wheels and I plan on mixing up a few of those for fun.

While I was playing with the suspension arms I realized the front right arm is off center. Seems Tamiya engineered it to be in line with the arm on the other side so they are even. That's not how this works Tamiya lol. So a little fabrication is going into that one. The rest are where they should be and line up fine.

Alright, lets discuss the suspension height. I notice that a lot of you think it's too high and so you lower the arms to compensate for it. Well that's not the problem at all. I don't know if anyone has mentioned it before or if it has ever been discussed, but its the hull itself that is the issue. Its too tall and out of proportion. That's not a problem one can easily fix however. Not without a lot of effort and refabrication. So I'm not going to even go there. This kit, in my opinion, is not worth THAT kind of effort. Not when there are better, modern, and more accurate kits out there.

I toyed with the idea of adding the older style engine deck, but I've decided I'm going to stick with the classic Tamiya style this kit has and just add my own brand of detailing and upgrades as I go. Its still going to look pretty cool when I'm done and only the "Tank Guys" will really notice what is wrong anyways.

Since accuracy will be an issue anyways I'm already decided on going for a "Time Slip" build where everything is different, but the same. Like the tanks orriginal design features were chosen differently and the vehicle was made based on slightly different choices being made during testing, before production. Why not? I can't make an accurate model based on this kit with out Herculean efforts to do so, and that's not worth the time for the above mentioned reason already stated.

So, its fun time in imagination land lol.

^ I closed up the holes on the bottom, except for the switch hole which I plan to use for the switch for the search light. I have a plan.  ;)

GMorrison

I don't know if the Legends kit has them, but there's a very visible set of clips that run around the outside of the frame at the back of the mantlet cover, where it mates to the turret.

 

Yes it comes with the clips. I just haven't added them yet. Just like Arty says.  :)

It's a wonderfull kit of resin and PE and I highly recommend it. My set seems to be an updated kit because it even comes with resin bolt heads for the clips. Tiny little things that I know are going to drive me nuts for an afternoon lol.

HeavyArty

 

 

I used the mantlet from Legend Productions...

I had to build up some Bondo to meet the sides of the mantlet cover. I'm not sure if the slope is wrong or if the mantlet cover is wrong, but it was far easier to match the slope to the cover than to modify and carve the mantlet cover to match the turret slope..

 

 

 

Which Legend mantlet did you use?  The reason I ask is if you used the one from set #1268, that set is for the new Dragon M48A3s.  Set #1033 is the older set for the Tamiya kit.  The Dragon and Tamiya kits have slightly different shaped turrets.  The Dragon one is more correct. 

 

 

I have the set for the Dragon kit, which is okay with me anyways because if that's what the slope should be, then I'm golden there, right?

RBaer

Following too.

A word: US castings are pretty good as a rule and cast texturing is generally relatively fine and uniform. I normally use some Mr.Surfacer over all the turret and hull castings, and only do light stippling, with maybe even some sanding after that. Your choice of course, but at this point it would be fairly easy to add some more of the bondo and even things out.

 

Don't worry. This should even out fairly well after some paint. I'm not leaving much of it raised too much as I don't want it to look like a rough Russian copy. I'm aiming for uneven, but level. I still wanted some of the smooth left on there and that's why the Bondo is not covering the entire turret.

That texture, I don't think, is what I will end up with. I will see better after some primer goes down.

I don't know if the Legends kit has them, but there's a very visible set of clips that run around the outside of the frame at the back of the mantlet cover, where it mates to the turret.

I don't know about set #1033, but #1268 has the attachment clips as PE parts.  It comes out nicely.  I used it on the Dragon kit.