Good to know my memories of be trundling about Camp Mabry and Ft Hood were not rose-tinged by time.

Standard military wheeled vehicle locking system is just a chain through the steering wheel to prevent it from being driven. HMMWVs used a cable and HEMTTs and later had a built in spot to lock the steering wheel. CUCVs all were keyed alike so one key would start any CUCV. For some reason, we called the pickup truck the Ten-Oh-8 and the Blazer was the CUCV. Then there was the "Contact Truck" which was the M1031 but never called by the nomenclature. The ambulance was the "Cracker Box".

No worries, the links are just images of the chain on the driver floor that I think you were describing. This reminds me that I need to get to the craft store and get some chain

My AVG just tripped on those links and blocked them.

Side note:  I have the six keys which will start just about any scissor lift or bucket lift (except the newer JLGs).  The things a person collects over a long carreer around construction.

LOL, I heard about those. To lock the steering wheel to the floor, right?

http://www.vintagemilitarytrucks.com/1986_Chevrolet_CUCV_M1008_LaPorte_13.JPG

http://www.vintagemilitarytrucks.com/1986_Chevrolet_CUCV_M1008_LaPorte_12.JPG

SprueOne

Thanks. The blackout light and jump start plug and other military version accessories could be found around on the interwebs too probably

Lots of those out three in the military vehicle restoration community.

Except, I have this vague memory that there's supossed to be a chain and padlock . . .

The brush guard is glued to the front bumper but just dry fit onto the front clip. I'll glue it on after all painting is done.

In a previous post I noted that I shaved off the lower end mounts that were suppose to be left on to help position it correctly onto the front bumper. To correct this, I scratch built a couple mounts that look a little more accurate to the real thing.

I used PE-13 from the PE set included with the kit. I wasn't going to use this part because it was for rear bench seats in the truck bed. Since I wasn't going to install these bench seats in my model, I wasn't going to install the 3 brackets along the top ridge of the bed sides.

I cut two 3mm lengths from PE-13 and used the fold to make the bracket mounts. They worked out perfectly.

Then the 8 rivet heads were sliced from MENG's set and glued into position referenced on-line.

It looks like it's wearing glasses now

Thannks, Rob

Yes, drill out the center.

I want to add a spare wheel under the rear, in front of the rear bumper like in these pictures:

http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_04_of_12.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/trucks/don_busack/m1008_cucv/images/m1008_cucv_05_of_12.jpg

I made a mold of a couple wheels from the kit so I can cast one for this roll. What does it look like when it's mounted? Should I drill out the center hub or leave that detail in place?

Thanks!

 http://imgur.com/a/US5PM

stikpusher

Marine Corps technicals?  

I love it!

tonka

In Guantanamo Bay, I had more 106MM recoiless rifles than I had Mules or Jeeps to mount them on, so being Marines, we improvised, adapted and overcame. Mounted the 106s on CUCVs, Deuce and 1/2s and Navy Jeep J10s. Want to do a version of those in 1/35th. I'll have to look for the kit.

 

 

Marine Corps technicals?  

I love it!

BTW, AFV Club makes a nice weapons set of TOW and 106 RR ground mounts in 1/35...

goldhammer

I hate resin stuff.  You are doing an excellent job with it.

Haha, Thanks. Yeah, it's different than styrene.

goldhammer

As to having a 1:1, look for an 81-86 Chev or GMC 3/4 ton (2500 series).  Personally I'd opt out on the diesel.  Body wise they are pretty much identical.  IIRC the military version had 1 ton axles and springs, and if you find a 3500 series civvy rig you pretty much have it in the bag.  Can fab up the brush guard out of flat stock and a mig welder.

 

Good detailed info, Thanks. The blackout light and jump start plug and other military version accessories could be found around on the interwebs too probably.

tonka

Just saw this build! Outstanding. I personally owned the civilian version of this vintage Chevy, and drove/rode in the CUCV many times. Didn't know there was a 1/35th version. Been looking for one and for a jeep J10 pickup.

In Guantanamo Bay, I had more 106MM recoiless rifles than I had Mules or Jeeps to mount them on, so being Marines, we improvised, adapted and overcame. Mounted the 106s on CUCVs, Deuce and 1/2s and Navy Jeep J10s. Want to do a version of those in 1/35th. I'll have to look for the kit.

Your detail is fantastic, cannot wait to see finished model. Thanks for sharing!

 

Wow, if you have pictures of any of those 106s mounted in any of those configurations, that would be invaluable reference material.

Navy Jeep J10s... that just sparked another interweb search campaign for hours...

Miniman Factory is the only model in 1/35 right now and they also make the M1009 and both also in 1/48. Both complete resin kits. Super fine quality.

Thank you both for checking in and commmenting and providing great information.

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I finished the front brush guard and mounted it to the front bumper part last night. I did not attach it to the front clip yet so I could paint both effeciently. I've been taking more pictures and will have time this weekend to download, optimize, load, and blog then.

goldhammer

Tonka--not to hijack, but the Jeep J-10 kits show up on ebay once in awhile.

 

Thanks Goldhammer,,I havent checked in awhile will do though...Now i need to find that CUCV model and follow this build!

Tonka--not to hijack, but the Jeep J-10 kits show up on ebay once in awhile.

Just saw this build! Outstanding. I personally owned the civilian version of this vintage Chevy, and drove/rode in the CUCV many times. Didn't know there was a 1/35th version. Been looking for one and for a jeep J10 pickup.

In Guantanamo Bay, I had more 106MM recoiless rifles than I had Mules or Jeeps to mount them on, so being Marines, we improvised, adapted and overcame. Mounted the 106s on CUCVs, Deuce and 1/2s and Navy Jeep J10s. Want to do a version of those in 1/35th. I'll have to look for the kit.

Your detail is fantastic, cannot wait to see finished model. Thanks for sharing!

I hate resin stuff.  You are doing an excellent job with it.

As to having a 1:1, look for an 81-86 Chev or GMC 3/4 ton (2500 series).  Personally I'd opt out on the diesel.  Body wise they are pretty much identical.  IIRC the military version had 1 ton axles and springs, and if you find a 3500 series civvy rig you pretty much have it in the bag.  Can fab up the brush guard out of flat stock and a mig welder.

You're welcome, Thanks for checkin out the build progress. I dig all the stories from people who actually drove or rode around in these.

 Do you mean, You've always wanted a 1/1 of these or the Miniman Factory model of it? I'd like to have an operable 1/1 of these myself.

Thanks, Gamer. I just steeped some green tea, lit some incense, and played "sounds of tanks in the meadow" at a medium volume. That's the trick really. Anyone can do it 

Oh gosh, you have a steady hand my friend. I'd have broken the brush guard into a zillion pieces trying to get the flash out! 

This is the resin brush guard part included in this kit. I bought another M1008 Miniman Factory kit which includes a white metal and lazer cut version of the brush guard part.

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This should be a testimony of the fine quality of resin casting of this kit. I carefully removed the material from these corners with a fine square file while holding it in my hand. Followed by fine grit sand paper for finishing. Didn't even break once. 

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Continuing removal of material with a sharp knife one quadrant at a time.

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Even with a sharp knife there is a rough stand out material left behind. After all quadrants were cut out, the flat side (front) was carefully sanded with a sanding stick, for nails, of approx. 1000 grit.

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Those blocks are outer attachment points to the front bumper.

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The brush guard dry set on top of the front bumper part. The final position will be a little more forward on the bumper. 

 He went all the way with brake lines and interior details...

SprueOne

Thanks!

I was going to forward a URL of a 1/25 build of an M1008 to you but looks like you already found it.

 

 

 

Thanks!

I was going to forward a URL of a 1/25 build of an M1008 to you but looks like you already found it.

I think it looks good enough PERIOD!!! Wished they had one of these in 1/25 scale.

I filled the gap around the grille with Zap-A-Gap medium CA. I think it looks good enough in 1/35.

Haha, even bought the t-shirts that's funny.

Well, luckily I found the piece because I just had to glue it back in place. And the slats didn't break completely off and get lost so I got lucky there and glued those back in place as well.

Looking good! 

I know what you mean about breaking fragile resin parts sanding them down, been there, done that, got several t-shirts...... 

While dry fitting the grille part in place I verified the clearance with the floor part to see if the front of the floor part would conflict with the back (the pour block) of the grille part. It did by approximately 1mm. So I need to sand down the back of the grille part or cut another 1mm off the front to the floor part.

If I cut another 1mm off the front of the floor part then some engine detail will be lost. I decided to sand down the pour block of the grille part instead. Mistake again. The fragile front slats of the grille part started breaking so I stopped. I'll wait until it is glued into the cab front then continue removal of material for clearance of the floor part.

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Something else I notice while dry fitting parts is that the angles of the cab hood and fenders are different than the grille part. That's weird because it leaves gaps on each side that are not present on a 1/1 prototype.

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Now glued in with that little corner piece re-attached. Almost can't tell that it broke off earlier.

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Now I can safely remove some of the pour block from the back of the grille part. Why didn't I think of that in the first place?

Thanks for looking...