IDF GB 4/20/08 - 4/20/09

I saw it and replied my friend.

Also since there was enough interest, the official start time will stay the same, but anyone who wants to start construction can do so now.  Just don't finish it before the end date.  LOL.  so "officially" it's still the 20th, but go ahead and start now.  I probably will, since due to various issues, there's not much I can work on right now.

Any idea's for paint color for this one?  I prefer to use Model Master Acryl for most stuff, but I can and will use Tamiya paints as well. 

No prob.  As I said add as many as you wish.  Onyl one will be in the official list, but as long as you complete at least one of the builds you get the badge.

Well I just finished with the suspension on my IDF SHOT Centurian.  Man 56 pieces in the suspension.  It's working suspension as well.  So that plus the main part of the lower hull, that is 57 pieces so far, and I'm not even 5% into the kit.

fantacmet I now remembered just who you are. I think you and I have butted heads once. it's weard that you and I are working on this type of GB hmmmmmmm......... The "Redneck_chevy_Psychopath" from Scale Auto Forum. I looked at your Photobucket album, You look good seated in front of your Redneck ((Rebel flag)) 

Actually the one you are showing right there is a TRUE rebel flag.  Note it only has 12 stars, instead of the 13 of the confederate flag.  The rebels loved their homes, but stuck with the north as far as philosophy.  One state of the confederacy, did have any rebels to join the cause, so there were only 12 instead of 13 stars on the rebel flag.  Good find digging that up.  I fly that flag because half of my family comes from Arkansas.  The other half comes from Ireland.  I also wear a cowboy hat, usually drive a jacked up truck, I wear cowboy boots, and a first place Rodeo buckle.  So I guess that makes me a redneck.

I never thought of that thread over there as butting heads, just a misunderstanding.  I never got to reply to it to clarify though, because Jim Haught accused me of copyright infringement when I posted a couple of photographs showing the covers of some 25 year old issues of Scale Auto.  He sicked the lawyers on me for copyright infringement as well.  Besides we live in America, everyone is entitled to their opinion, and I'm not gonna hold anyone's opinion against them.  Well maybe against the gun grabbers who want murderers and rapists to have total freedom of victims, but that is another issue.  LOL

Staying on that topic and of modeling at the same time your not a Redneck. I took the time to call a lot of my friends and family and talked about that issue of what is a redneck realy and just putting on clothing can not make you a real redneck. Now I'm talking about the realy rednecks not the guy running around hurting people and calling them selves :RedNecks: Real redneck and now you have to truly know all the U.S. History to know this any way once the Civil War was over the Northern business men called the carpetbaggers would get in to it with a lot of the southern poor people and would call in the union soldiers to back them up. Well once the soldiers would see the backs of the necks on the southerners they would call them Rednecks and that name stuck. Now from talking with my F&Fs the term Rednecks is to only the verey poor in the south, an Good ol' boys are what to day is call the middle class., an the Planters aka Plantation owners the upper upper echelon of fokes down south. Historicly speeking all those terms are right and what they mean but over the years the meaning of the words have changed to reflecked the way folk of to day think. So going back to what you said about you clothing or what you like to wear your an if we keep it right your a ((Good Ol' Boy)) (you have ahome PC)But if you think the way some of the folks in the south think about people of a different ethnic group then you maybe a rednecko or good ol' boy of to days standers.  Ok now that's some thing to think on isn't it.

Like I said, stuff doesn't bother me.  Prayers for your girlfriend who was attacked man.

As for getting back to building I agree.  I've gotten a little bit more done on my SHOT Centurian.  Man this thing has lots of small little parts to build up the bigger parts which in turn build up the major assemblies.  On the bright side, it looks GOOD!  I wanna take my time and really concentrate on getting this one look spectacular.  Since the origin of this tank is British, I think I am going to assume that the sand color is British Military Sand, and paint it as such, since I do have a bottle of British military sand color sitting here.

If anyone has a more accurate suggestion I'm all ears/eyes.

osher's right but remember your building a IDF version vehicle, and like here in the US the sand color is not the same as the IDF version. On one hand they would buy some military vehicle from us (A.I-the US) being the M113 APCs the colors some times were changed from green to sand. At that time we didn't have a use for the sand color. Oh now I see a friend has just informed me that when the IDF would buy vehicle from the countries that support them they would only change colors if needed. So you can leave your tank the sand color that you have., but if your building it to be in a certain conflict you may need to custom mix you sand color to mach a type of conflict version.

last bit of info was from a friend: Ashur

Well to me the british sand looks, off, but I can't think of anything else.  I have yet to get to the point where I have to decide which version of the tank to build.  Since you have a couple of options.  I noticed in some pics I found online some were green.  I would rather do this tank in sand, I think it looks better, and I can provide better shading.  Especially if I can get my brand new airbrush fixed(the second time using it the nozzle sheered off in the body, it's 30 bucks for a new nozzle and 118 for a new body if I can't get the broken section out of the body).  If y'all could help me with modeling a tank from a specific conflict and as a result help me decide which version from the kit to build, and which sand color to go with(I can get Tamiya, Polly S, and Model Master Acryl), it would be MOST appreciated. 

I would like to build the Mk.5/1 as opposed to the Mk.5 which is fine because all pics of the Mk.5 I have show it in green.  Plus the Mk.5/1 has more parts for a more interesting looking vehicle.  I'm just about to the point where I need to decide which tank to go with.

First off what type of airbrush do you have and how did you do what you did to it. Question do you have heavy hands meaning are you using your strength to much when you put the brash back together. But first I need to know what type of airbrush you have as I have so airbrush diagrams. Here's some links that may help you out on that.

http://www.dentalinvisions.com/diagrams/airbrush/files/page5_1.jpg

http://www.theartistsdepot.com/images/Site_Ready/Airbrushes/IwataAirbrushDiagram.gif

http://www.thebakerskitchen.com/CAKE_SHOPPE/Airbrushes/Airbrush_Diagram.JPG

and before you all go goofy on the diagrams. I googled them, you all need the learn the WAYSSSS of the ((GOOOGLE))

As for the tank I will look around and talk to some of my girls Brothers or my friends. "What ever"!!

Oh and after some time my girl has said thanks you for what you said.

I've got the diagram for my airbrush it is a precisionaire XFS.  I'm not particularly heavy handed, and on this particular one, I was screwing the nozzle in with the wrench just as directed in the instruction sheet, using nothing more then light pressure from a single finger and it just BINK off it came all of the sudden.  I was going slow and there was no resistance whatsoever.  Which makes me think it was a defect in the nozzle.  Weakened at some point during the manufacturing process.  The nozzle is brass, which tears real easy so I was being especially careful.  I bought the thing through bearair, but they are unwilling to do anything about it.  If I can get the part of the nozzle out of the body when I will buy a new nozzle when I have the $$.  It is a very nice airbrush.  I am VERY pleased with it.  I have 3 other working airbrushes, just none of them quite give the same detail as that precisionaire.  Nowhere near the detail.  The ultra fine tip and needle combined with being able to crank the compressor down to just 5psi allowed some VERY fine hairlines.  I was able to actually airbrush into panel lines like that without overspray.  I would love to show you the example, but alas my 2 year old somehow managed to get ahold of the model I did it to, and you can guess the rest.  I will check out the links anyway, althuogh I do have 2 copies of the bearair airbrush bible. 

Appreciate the look around for the tank.

Tell yer g/f NP, this kind of mindless violent crap has got to stop.  I mean c'mon has nobody ever heard of the phrase just leave people alone?  I'm not sure whats worse, violence for robbery or some other crime, or violence just for the sake of violence.  It makes me want to apoligize to my children for bringing them into such a world where this garbage happens.

For any others building the IDF SHOT Centurion, there is a detail missing from the kit that really does stand out.  It's not actually missing in the kit, but rather is missing in the instructions.  The parts are there in the kit.  Check out the two pictures below, for a before and after these parts are install shot.

There is a prue labeled, AFV CLUB AF35100-H, on that sprue it is parts, 12, 13, 18, and 19, that you will need.  The sprue also houses the mod guards.  It makes a difference.  They really should update the instructions to reflect these parts are included in the kit.  Fit overall is QUITE good.  So far I am impressed. 

First off dude it's a nice looking brush at a hight price if you add in the Shipping cost. For a brush that seams to be a good one and have that type of problems and the company is un willing to help I would not buy any thing from them ever again., but you will do what you want as for me I use a Badger 200NH I have fine tips to heavy tip & needles. An they work well for me. We have a company here that I think you may like   the name it's called http://www.dixieart.com/

But I see that you brush only comes from http://www.bearair.com/ So I think you may just nee to grab your Vise grips and take off that tip and just buy all the parts you will need to fix you airbrush. Question have you bean a customer of theres for a long time, if so is that the way they behave towards there customers. It's some thing you should ask.

I think this is you brush: http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100406 Man 28 bucks geez for a part that's is that soft http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=111603 good luck.

As for the IDF Centurion Tank colors here some links that may help.

 This one has the color your looking for I think (kaki color): http://news.webshots.com/album/75487635fipDFo

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/voyager/vm_pe35217.html

This One has a lot of images:

http://www.davidpride.com/Israeli_Armor/Armor_index.htm

The color looks to be more like a dark cakey color to me:

http://www.davidpride.com/Israeli_Armor/IL_Armor001.htm

In the Yom Kippur war that tank was some times Sand or kaki color as I see it and oliv drab. A lot of the images here are in black & white.

http://www.israelmilitary.net/showthread.php?p=27976

A book preview all ways helps out some.

http://books.google.com/books?id=qRWxjB961TUC&pg=PT38&lpg=PT38&dq=idf+centurion+tank&source=web&ots=iq7EUduGOU&sig=Tb6pdvBu62UrAmvi0Z9ivLIX268&hl=en#PPP1,M1

For the colors look here:

http://www.mheaust.com.au/IDF/Research/paint/sandchip.htm

Some Good color photos of the tank here:

http://www.mheaust.com.au/IDF/Research/Cent/Centidf.htm

http://www.mheaust.com.au/IDF/IDF%20Index.htm

And last  an image of a 1/35 scale version of the IDF Centurion Tank in sand color and some weathering:

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/internethobbies_1993_71859234

There aer a few companise that carry the airbrush I use.  I will probably get the part from one of the other companies even if it is more expensive.

Long time customers of Bearair don't have to worry about this sort of thing.  Long time customers pretty much get the world handed to them on a silver platter.  Of course long term customers aren't buy any airbrushes that cost less then about 600 bucks retail either.  I had seen Dixieart a couple of times, mentioned in a couple of airbrush video's and online.  If you recommend them, I'll definately give them a shot.

Thanks for those links, I'll definately be checking them out later today when I am done with my computer.  Things have been getting on the slow side even with all the maintenance, and the registry well it looks like a hornets nest, so time for a wipe and reinstall.  I must say I'm impressed, with XP I had to wipe and reinstall every month, with Vista I've been running over 6 months solid with no issues.  I have a few things that run better un XP, so I'm gonna put that back on until I get a faster proc.  Only running dual 3.8's right now.

Not sure if most of you have given this fairly new paint brand a try but I have and it is a very nice acrylic paint to work with, airbrushes nice as well as hand paintable and most important they have mixed Israeli colors for the different time periods.

http://idfmodelling.free.fr/article01.html

I got my samples from military hobbies.

Vartan041 wrote:

Too bad I'm too late...I just started Academy's Merkava Mk III  1/35

be BEGIN on 4/20/08 {but have been given an ok to start early just not to finish before the start date.} so joining should be ok

Vartan041 If you want in with that, just say so, and you are in.  Anyone can join after the start date, just as long as they feel they can get it done by the end date.

Hey White_R34 I have to head out of town to the Inlaws in the morning, for at least a week.  Would be much appreciated if you could takeover on this thread while I'm gone.  So everyone else, whatever he says while I'm gone, is what goes.  LOL.

Really?  IDF Figs?  I've not been able to find any of them for the right era, let alone any IDF figs.  I've been planning on just gluing all hatches closed.  If I can find a source for some though, I will get some, and put a couple popping up out of the tank and put it on a nice base.  Maybe even a dio out of it.

fantacmet I'm goint to post the place where I get my Figs. so you may want to think of shopping at the same place but first I'm going to call the place tomorrow and up dated you on the price and year, Oh as for the battle of the 3 man fig set I'm looking at one of the ded men is a PLO fighter, it comes from 1969-1988 and the IDF set is From Academy and is based in the '80s. Like my M151A2 Ford MUTT comes out of the '60's till the late '80 to Mid '90's. So I'm close to the right type of area. As for makeing a base I have never done that and this will be my first one.

As for holding things down here at the Fort I'll do my best.((Like they say when the cat's away)) As you adding a build that you have started on to this GB if you have not built the full thing; I think you can enter it, but first can you show us where you are on your build? We love pix here!!!