SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

The long awaited figure tutorial

18996 views
63 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Thursday, May 29, 2008 6:12 AM
 Hermesminiatures wrote:

Hmm...are you totally monochromatic, or do you just have problems with red-green or blue-yellow? I could see that being a problem...

Actually, blue and yellow are the "good" colors for me...hence the corresponding bike scheme. Heh. Red/green/brown tend to be a pretty confused mush. Don't have a copy of my army medical records anywhere close, so no official diagnosis, but i seem to remember failing all of the color tests pretty badly. Blindfold [X-)]

 Hermesminiatures wrote:

If you do end up having to use off the shelf colors, I'd suggest that you ask around for the best colors to use for a particular project...Vallejo's colors aren't exactly what you'd expect. For example, WWII US Uniform is a bright apple green, not the olive shade it should be Shock [:O]

That could certainly be a problem. Shock [:O] Do you have any recommendations for a figure-paintable brand that might have more accurate colors?

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:55 AM

The Vallejo colors aren't entirely inaccurate, there are just a few that are slightly off. Many of them are made to go in threes, with a base, shadow, and highlight, and don't look good by themselves. Later in the tutorial I'll teach you about filters and how to change the tone of a color after you've applied it.

Dupes - you'll still be best off with Vallejo, nobody else is any more accurate. You just need to ask around, because you wouldn't know that 'US Uniform' is actually the Vietnam-era color and not appropriate for WWII. Nobody should worry too much about getting spot-on color shades - temperature and tone of the real uniforms would vary with production batch, wear, and dirt.

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posted by T-rex on Thursday, May 29, 2008 10:05 PM

Finally, a figure painting tutorial, just what i need, with all the kits bougth and dio's waiting to be done, I need to know how to paint figures, it been a skill that i haven't still master.

I hear to never use acrylics on figures because it too thick and doesn't achieve the skin look and enermals are better, is this true? cause all i got is tamiya acrylics.

Working on: Trumpeter SU-152 (1/35) Trumpeter E-10 (1/35) Heller Somua (1/35)

"The world is your enemy, prince of a thousand enemy. And when they'll find you, they will kill you... but they will have to catch you first ''

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Friday, May 30, 2008 7:26 AM
 T-rex wrote:

I hear to never use acrylics on figures because it too thick and doesn't achieve the skin look and enermals are better, is this true? cause all i got is tamiya acrylics.

Se the posts from Dupes and me, as well as Hermes regarding Tamiya vs. Vallejo/Andrea. This 200mm bust was painted almost entirely in Vallejo and Andrea acrylics. Acrylic Citadel brass for the buttons, an oil wash in the hair and Humbrol gold on the shoulder boards.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Friday, May 30, 2008 8:59 AM
 T-rex wrote:

 

I hear to never use acrylics on figures because it too thick and doesn't achieve the skin look and enermals are better, is this true? cause all i got is tamiya acrylics.

 I'm just starting in 1/35 figures and by no means as accomplished as some of the others who have posted, but generally I use oils for the face(Blending) and Vallejo acrylics for everything else. They dry a lot faster and as long as you thin them they cover excellent,IMHO. They're not as durable as enamels, but unless you plan on juggling your completed figures acrylics should work fine for you.Confused [%-)]

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Friday, May 30, 2008 7:47 PM

Great stuff there, Al. Cool [8D]

Hermes...how's part 3 coming? Still recovering from those bike rides? Mischief [:-,]

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Friday, May 30, 2008 9:16 PM
Nope, I've been working on finishing up my Jagdpanzer for the Hunters GB so I've been a bit pressed for spare time. After Sunday, I should begin writing again Smile [:)]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posted by T-rex on Sunday, June 1, 2008 3:28 PM

Read a figure tutorial and it says "acrylics when are dry are just too dry and unrealistique for flesh color on figures, enermals are better canse there smooth..." 

Well it doesn't really matter the paint use on the figure as look as it looks good, it just eyes and shadows that I can't do right, as well as highlights.

Working on: Trumpeter SU-152 (1/35) Trumpeter E-10 (1/35) Heller Somua (1/35)

"The world is your enemy, prince of a thousand enemy. And when they'll find you, they will kill you... but they will have to catch you first ''

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Newport News VA
Posted by Buddho on Sunday, June 1, 2008 4:00 PM


Here are some of my figures painted with Vallejo and Citadel acrylics:

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Indy
Posted by raider83 on Sunday, June 1, 2008 5:32 PM
I remember seeing that first bust in FSM recently Buddho. Good stuff!
On the bench: Monogram 1/48 Kingfisher Cardinal Ritter- Class 1A 2008 Indiana State Football Champs
  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Sunday, June 8, 2008 9:10 PM

An excellent tutorial so far,

I will be keeping an eye on this one. I've tried painting faces with acrylics but failed miserably. The shading thing threw me for a loop. The mini gallery was a great idea. I've already picked up a few pointers that I always rush thru, the prep work. So I would like to thank you for sharing this tutorial.Thumbs Up [tup]

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Thursday, June 12, 2008 8:00 PM
Well I finally got my laptop back from the repair people, so I should be able to add part 3 soon. Borrowing computers isn't exactly ideal for writing long detailed things like this tutorial Smile [:)]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Friday, June 13, 2008 5:56 AM
Well it's about time. Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Sunday, June 15, 2008 10:28 PM
Okay guys, part 3 is finally up Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Monday, June 16, 2008 1:34 PM
Wow, fantastic. All the detail and description that one would need. Thanks very much.
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Saturday, June 21, 2008 5:00 PM
So, anybody still following this? I was kind of surprised to hear no Part 3 questions...

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, June 21, 2008 5:45 PM

 Hermesminiatures wrote:
So, anybody still following this? I was kind of surprised to hear no Part 3 questions...

I'm still here!  After reading part 3, I had some questions about glazes.  Before I asked them, I wanted to look at the photos again but that was when Photobucket went all skrewy!

I read your descriptions about the glazes, but having never tried it- I am hesitant to give them a whirl.  DO you have any other photos that show the progression of shading using them, or perhaps a photo showing a typical glaze in a cup/on a tray so I can get a better feel for their consistency?

Thanks for the toot, and the help! Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Cheyenne, Wy
Posted by cheymike on Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:53 AM
As a newbie to the forums and a recent returnee to modelling who had NO clue what to do with those figures included in the kits other than make them look like blobs of painted plastic.... THANKS!  Great tutorial!
Cheymike
  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: League City, Texas
Posted by sfcmac on Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:06 PM
 THis is interesting to the extreme. Working on figures is just like doing a whole separate model to me. Thank you for sharing your techniques!
  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Kansas City MO
Posted by Dougums on Sunday, June 22, 2008 7:36 PM

Hermes - Thanks again for putting this together.  The third installment is great.  I have worked with glazes before and I really enjoy watching the figure come to life.  Now only if I could paint a pair of straight eyes.

 

 Hermesminiatures wrote:

The key to learning this, like most of the other techniques, is practice, practice, practice.

 

Ain't that the truthWink [;)]

Doug 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:16 PM

Okay guys, I'll see about adding some more photos of mixing and applying glazes.

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Monday, June 23, 2008 7:41 AM
 Hermesminiatures wrote:

Okay guys, I'll see about adding some more photos of mixing and applying glazes.

Thanks, I'll be watching for those! Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, June 23, 2008 10:18 AM
 Dougums wrote:

 Now only if I could paint a pair of straight eyes.  

Doug 

To check on properly aligned eyes, I keep a small mirror on my bench. When I've added the irises, I look at the face in the mirror. I don't understand why that makes it easier to see the alignment, but it does. It's like when you get your haircut, the barber/stylist is watching your reflection more than directly at you.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Monday, June 23, 2008 11:18 AM
So what's the ETA on part 4, Hermes? All of my figures are asking...Laugh [(-D]
  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: Kansas City MO
Posted by Dougums on Monday, June 23, 2008 2:34 PM

    Thanks for the tip ajlafleche! I will give it a try.

    And ditto that dupes, some figs just dont stand up on thier own. I need some bases. 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, June 23, 2008 3:00 PM
 Dougums wrote:

    And ditto that dupes, some figs just dont stand up on thier own. I need some bases. 

For a figure that's to be displayed by itself, I mount them on a 2 inch cube from Michael's. I stain it, add groundwork et voila, a base. If you want to display it next to a piece of armor, they also have 1/8 inch circles and other shapes. These can be painted  and will allow you to give your display as sense of scale. The blocks sell for a dollar and the smaller pieces less, I believe. Running a piece of brass rod or even paper clip up the heel allows you to drill a hole in the base to make the figure more stable.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Canada
Posted by Birdgunner on Sunday, July 13, 2008 4:32 PM

Hey, we are still waiting on pins and needles for part 4!!!  Any idea when it will be posted?

Thanx's

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: LaValle, Wisconsin
Posted by Hermesminiatures on Sunday, July 13, 2008 8:05 PM

I've been pretty busy lately but I'm almost done with it. Should be posted within a week if things go as planned.

Also, I'm going to be pretty upset if somebody doesn't actually start posting some photos of all the figures that they were so eager to paint when I started this tutorial....you've already got all the needed info to start painting! Wink [;)]

Jonathan

For every modeling technique that works, I have three that don't.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Monday, July 14, 2008 7:06 AM
Hahahah! Wouldn't I love to. The whole colorblind-with-colormixing thing has got me a bit worried, however, so I'm still stuck on deciding whether or not to buy that ENORMOUS box of Vallejo Model Color paints, or just a few bottles and hope to find some "recipes"...wanted to use what I have on hand (read:Tamiya) but have been warned against it. Whistling [:-^]

Contemplating just the smaller "Panzer Aces" sets, but don't know if they have all that I need. Confused [%-)]
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: St. Petersburg, FL
Posted by sawdeanz on Sunday, July 27, 2008 7:54 PM
First of all thanks, this tutorial is helpful. I can't wait to try out this technique. At first I was confused about the glazes but now it makes sense and easy. My question is, where can I get vallejo acrylics and do they have any flesh sets or something that would have the colors i need for painting faces etc. None of my lhs carry them. Could this technique work with enamel at all as long as I waited for them to dry between coats?
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.