The long awaited figure tutorial

You can order them from ausfwerks.com. I've never heard of this technique being used with enamels, although technically it could be as long as you let the paint fully cure before applying the next layer. Since applying a mixture containing a lot of thinner over an uncured layer will often lift the first layer, you would have to wait at least a day in between layers. Also, most enamels wouldn't have the same properties as Vallejo acrylics.

So technically, it could work with enamels, but it would take weeks to shade a single figure and probably wouldn't work as well.

 Hermesminiatures

After creating my own 2.3 cm high human figures out of wire and < sculpy> clay, ...about 2 weeks of difficult, tiny  sculpture , uniforms, canteens , ammunition belt , etc ... I  found that my work is NOTHING when compared to the exquisite figures that can be purchased ready made !

My curiousity is sparked by the enormous detail ...eyes, mouth, expressions that appear on faces 2.5 mm hig ..really detailed exquisite work for ready-made figures.

QUESTION:
1.  How are such tiny detals added to human figures only 2.3 cm high ?

2. Even IF the figures are reproductions of a prototype:
how is the prototype made wth such fine detail ?

3. Finally: What process is used to manufacture the production  "mold" for  2.3 cm high figures?

Thank you  for ANY information or answers ! !

falconeye  

Sounds like you're reffering to 1/48 or 1/72 figures. They are harder to sculpt than 1/35 (about 5cm tall) so if you do want to try your own sculpting, it would be a good idea to start with larger figures.

To begin with, sculpy is not the thing to use - it's basically glorified play-doh. What you want is a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput or Apoxy Sculpt - epoxy is smoother, easier to work, and cures much stronger than any play-with clay will. Best of all, epoxy putty is water-soluble before it cures, so you can wet your tools to make your job easier.

You'll need special tools to sculpt fine detail - I use a dental pick with one flat end (similar in shape to a flat toothpick) and one rounded, pointed end. A cosmetic orange stick sanded to shape also works. The good old #11 blade isn't that useful for sculpting, so if you were trying to use one of those, it's no wonder it isn't working.

Faces are about the hardest thing there is to scuplt, I'd recommend using pre-made heads until you get very good at sculpting - even I can't do very good heads yet. It is all done by hand in most cases, so there's really no quick and easy altenative.

Plastic figures are made by injecting a metal mold with liquid plastic, than adding a hardener to make it cure. Resin figures are made by pouring a two-part epoxy resin into a rubber mold. Since the rubber is more flexible than steel, figures cast in rubber molds are usually better detailed and in fewer pieces because the rubber mold can have undercuts. You can buy casting resin and RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber online or at good hobby stores, however a good starter kit will cost around $50 and only contain enough rubber to make molds for about 7 figures. The molds must be designed very well, too, or they won't work.

I think your best bet right now would be to buy some plastic figures and practice modifying them using epoxy putty. You should learn how to sculpt well before you attempt an entire figure from scratch, because then you not only have to worry about the details, but all the proportions must be exact as well.