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Attack Tomahawk 1/100 - W.I.P.

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  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:11 AM

Phil_H

Nice detail work CJ, she's coming along nicely.

 Thank you. I’m enjoying it – it’s a fairly easy yet well engineered kit, which makes for a hassle free build.

 

SLW 45

Looking very good

What you got planed for paint

Here, let me show you. Big Smile

 Painting started with the detail parts that would need to be masked before putting on the base color. I used Testor’s Model  Master enamels for almost everything on this build.

I wanted a reddish-brown for the cover of the missile launchers located on either side of the “head”, and waffled between Burnt Sienna and Military Brown – the Military Brown won out.

 Now, for this kit, I wanted a strong definition between the highlights and shadows – to give the impression of large size and mass, but also to try to copy the paint scheme on the box cover. To that end, when I post-shaded all the colors, I used a high ratio of burnt umber mixed w/ the base, at about a 50/50 ratio. As it turns out, the contrast wasn’t nearly as strong as I thought it would be…

 The main guns have some inset stripe-type things on them. These were painted Black, and the I post-highlighted the upper surfaces of them by mixing Neutral Grey w/ the base, at about 25%. Again, not as much contrast as I thought.

 For the “eye”, I first airbrushed the whole area Dark Red mixed w/ Black, and then Bright Red in the center. I then mixed a little Chrome Yellow into the red, and sprayed a small spot right in the middle. I kept mixing more yellow in, and painting a smaller and smaller area until I reached the limits of my airbrush. It’s not perfect, but I think it looks good enough.

Front openings in the feet were sprayed Jet Exhaust, as was the inside of the main gun barrels. Neither was shaded, as I liked the way the paint looked already.

 

 

The spotlight was first undercoated w/ Anthracite Grey, then painted Steel, followed by a Gunmetal shadow tone sprayed around the edges, w/ some Silver highlighting in the center.

When all that paint was dry, I masked everything off w/ Tamiya masking tape. I also masked the contact points where I would be putting liquid cement later. For such a small kit, there sure was a lot of masking.

Notice that I left the upper hull in two sections. This was to make painting and masking some parts easier, like the missile covers and the eye, but also because the head piece sits on top of the hull, and painting and shading underneath there w/ an airbrush would have been almost impossible otherwise.  Also, the head mounted machine guns are fitted into place from the inside, and I wanted to avoid dry brushing metallics in so confined an area when painting them.

Masking done, I airbrushed the whole model Dark Tan. I was worried there might not be enough difference between the Military Brown and the Dark Tan, but it looks okay.

Then I began shading the base color. First, I mixed Burnt Umber w/ the base to get a shadow tone, and airbrushed this all over the undersides of all the parts.

Then I mixed Raw Umber w/ the base, and airbrushed the highlights on the undersides, and all the vertical surfaces. The vertical surfaces were then highlighted w/ the base color, and the upper horizontal surfaces were highlighted by mixing Armor Sand into the base and spraying the inside of some panels, like the top if the auxiliary missile launcher, the searchlight and the head. At this point, the effect is more subtle than I had hoped…

 Then I removed the masks to see how everything looked. Unfortunately the paint on the face of the spotlight was ruined - for some reason, the gluey backing from my Tamiya tape stuck to the paint, and couldn’t be removed without pulling up the metallic colors too. So I just tossed the light in some paint stripper and started over.

That done, I fitted the head into place, and glued the two halves of the upper hull together. I then masked the missle covers to keep them from getting damaged during sanding.

 The seam between the parts was carefully removed, and the paint process was repeated to cover up the repair. I’m liking it now.

 

Time to do a little work on the base…

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Thursday, July 22, 2010 11:38 PM

Nice detail work CJ, she's coming along nicely. Yes

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Central IL
Posted by SLW 45 on Thursday, July 22, 2010 6:56 PM

Looking very good

What you got planed for paint

                 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Thursday, July 22, 2010 4:08 AM

Continuing on, I began looking for ways I could improve the details of the kit. The first thing I wanted to fix was the hips. On the sides are some molded in grills or louvers. Unfortunately, they don't line up, they're somewhat sunken in the middle, and it would be almost impossible to sand away the seam...

...so I just covered them up w/ a bit of sheet styrene. If I had some more time (or the inclination), I would have replaced them w/ home made grills, or some grooved evergreen sheet stock - I just didn't have any on hand. I'll probably do that on the next one.

Next up was the gun arms. After putting them together, there was a seam to remove as usual. Unfortunately the seam ran down the inside of the barrel. Same problem with a corresponding hollow space at the back. I couldn't figure out how to sand those smooth, so I decided to cheat the seams.

On the front, I drilled out the barrel with a drill bit slightly larger than the original bore diameter, and then fitted a short length of brass tube of the appropriate size into the muzzle. In the rear, I applied liquid cement and then dropped a small plastic burner nozzle from Kotobukia in the space. After both had set, I sanded them flush. Much better.

On the tops of the "shoulder" pieces, there was a significant gap above the "arm", as well as an ugly, uneven edge. Can't have that.

Again, cardstock came to the rescue. Also in this picture, I used the same plastic to seal off the inside of the heel parts. They were otherwise totally hollow, and this was an easy fix.

Other uses for cardstock/scrap plastic:

Adding missing detail to the front of the legs...

And covering some difficult to reach seams.

After that, all the excess plastic was sanded flush.

At this point, I checked the alignment of the legs to see if further modification of the hips was necessary. The stance is a bit stiff, but I'm cool with it for now.

As a final modification, I drilled out all the gun barrels on the torso and head mounted guns.

Notice that I left the torso in two sections, front and back. I did this to make painting some of the details easier.

Speaking of which, next up is paint!

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:37 AM

iafrate

What do you use to sand in between each "grille" channel on the thigh pieces?

Iafrate, I think your avatar is trying to tell me something.

For removing those little seams, I used a micro carbide drill bit. I laid the bit in the groove and slid it side to side, scraping away small bits of plastic w/ each pass. Worked quite well, and quick too. It made the grooves a little concave, but it’s actually hard to tell because they’re so small.

 

Phil_H
Yep, I recall looking at some of the original boxings on EBay several years ago going for somewhere between $50 and $60. I believe I have one or two of the chrome plated "special edition" kits deep in the stash..  
You got a great deal for $6 each  

Yeah, that’s about what they’re going for now. The 1/72 scale kits can be priced at $100 or more. Just crazy.

The Tomahawks are sold out, but the Phalanx kit is still available on HLJ for around $7, if you’re interested in one of those.

 

SLW 45

Been looking forward to this build

Please keep the updates coming

 

Will do. Big Smile

 

SteelSnail

Keep us posted.

I'm very interested cause I also got one of the re-injected ones along with a phalanx

Absolutely. Smile

 

I’m not a fan of the Phalanx design. The "arms" are a bit too big for my taste – they overwhelm the rest of the kit. However, I was thinking I could use the legs and body from that model as replacements on my Defender kit, which really suffers in those areas. If you have pictures of the Phalanx parts, I wouldn’t mind seeing them.

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: México
Posted by SteelSnail on Monday, July 19, 2010 5:11 PM

Keep us posted.

I'm very interested cause I also got one of the re-injected ones along with a phalanx Smile

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Central IL
Posted by SLW 45 on Monday, July 19, 2010 11:18 AM

Been looking forward to this build

Please keep the updates coming

                 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, July 19, 2010 6:31 AM

Cosmic J
Unfortunately, the kits were expensive and hard to find - examples of the 1/100 scale version show up on e-bay at absolutely crazy prices.

Yep, I recall looking at some of the original boxings on EBay several years ago going for somewhere between $50 and $60. I believe I have one or two of the chrome plated "special edition" kits deep in the stash..  Big Smile

You got a great deal for $6 each Yes 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Kathleen GA / Robins AFB
Posted by iafrate on Monday, July 19, 2010 5:50 AM

What do you use to sand in between each "grille" channel on the thigh pieces?

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Attack Tomahawk 1/100 - W.I.P.
Posted by Cosmic J on Monday, July 19, 2010 5:04 AM

Since the first time I saw Robotech as a teenager in the 80's, I've wanted a model of the Destroid Tomahawk from Macross. Unfortunately, the kits were expensive and hard to find - examples of the 1/100 scale version show up on e-bay at absolutely crazy prices.

So as you can imagine I was very happy when Bandai re-popped some of the old kits. I grabbed two of these off of HLJ at about $6 apiece - now that's a low price!

Opening the box, I find that the Tomahawk is a relatively simple kit. I expected that at 1/100 scale.

Just two sprues and some decals, with a one page instruction sheet. This should be easy...

Riiiight...

Looking at how the kit goes together, I decided to assemble and paint the "thigh" portion of the legs before building the rest of the kit - sanding and painting the knee area after construction would have been difficult or impossible. The grooves on the joint are very tiny, I had to use a micro drill bit to remove the seam in them.

 

So far, so good...

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