Gorilla tack worked well. It was a bit gummy but nothing I could not deal with. The textured paint went well too. 

Towards the end of the build I will paint the sand and rocks. With this portion now completed, I am shifting gears. I will start work on the tracks.

End.

Glad things worked out with the paint Bakster! Yeah, I've seen some the other stuff the Captian talked about but haven't gotten around to trying it yet though. 

Good luck with the masking! I've generally just sprayed a poster board with the texture paint and then when dry glued it to a wooden base and never masked it. I hope the masking works out well. 

So, last night I pulled the trigger and epoxied the rocks down. In my zeal, I didn't think things through very well. I have yet to texturize the base and that means, I must mask the rocks somehow. I tested using liquid mask on scrap rocks and though that works, the mask is a major pita to remove. As a result, I decided not to go that route. It was then I read Capns post about blu-tack and the light bulb went on. Yes, try using that. I have a piece with paint curing right now. I will give that a few hours and check it then. Pretty confident that will do the trick. My biggest concern was how corrosive this paint might be. I feared it might melt these masking materials, but it didn't melt the liquid mask. So, I have a high confidence that the Gorrila tack will be fine.

End.

CapnMac82

Ah, their textured line has become pretty wide.  Some of the line are available at hobby places like Jo-Ann and Hobby Lobby; but thebest selections are the big box home imporvement places. There are someinteresting effects that can be made by using a texture paint  for the texture, then applying a finish color for the effect.

Indeed! They offer an impressive line of paint.

CapnMac82

That's a slick method, especially given how less-than easy those tracs are for painting. Might be worth getting some Blu-Tak to mask the tires, for being able to "mush" it around the tyre surfaces a bit better.  Dunno, it's a thought, and, possibly, a touch easier than the ten fathoms of 5mm tape wanted.  Mayb.  Perhaps

Thanks, Capn.  Btw. That is great thinking about the Blu tack. I just came back from Menards. They don't stock that brand but they have Gorrilla brand which comes in an off white. I bought it.

Serendipity continues. Your timing could not have been better with the blu tack. Not only will this help with the wheels, but it may just solve another problem I stepped into. More on that in post I will do shortly. 

You guys are bringing it.  Thank you.

Bakster

The entire row is dedicated to Rustoleum.

Ah, their textured line has become pretty wide.  Some of the line are available at hobby places like Jo-Ann and Hobby Lobby; but thebest selections are the big box home imporvement places.

There are someinteresting effects that can be made by using a texture paint  for the texture, then applying a finish color for the effect.

Bakster

using the mask tool I made

That's a slick method, especially given how less-than easy those tracs are for painting.

Might be worth getting some Blu-Tak to mask the tires, for being able to "mush" it around the tyre surfaces a bit better.  Dunno, it's a thought, and, possibly, a touch easier than the ten fathoms of 5mm tape wanted.  Mayb.  Perhaps.

I went to the hardware store today. My mission was to locate the textured paint Gamera mentioned. It was quite the adventure because I forgot my glasses. The entire row is dedicated to Rustoleum. It was three passes and with blurry eyes that I finnaly located it. I am glad that I did.

I sprayed the test piece and below is the outcome. For clarity sake, the bottom third had a thin layer of Durhams, the middle third nothing, and the top third was also Durhams but I added white glue. I tested it with white glue because I was concerned that Durhams might not adhere well to the base putty. I was covering my bases. In the end, I think the concern was unfounded.

All I can say is, wow! The paint did the job and then some. So much so, I might eliminate Durhams from the equation. If anything, if I do use it, it will be for the sole purpose of altering the topography. 

So, Gam, you sir, are the man of the hour. Thanks for mentioning this. It doesn't get any easier than this.

While I continue to work on the base, I turned my attention to the track assembly. Specifically, how will I mask the rims. I knew this would be the most problematic portion of the process, and it did not disappoint. I tried cutting circular Tamiya tape masks, then vinyl tape, and lastly, Bare Metal Foil. I could not get a good result with any of those. I came closets to achieving the goal using BMF but with the wheels being recessed, it was difficult to trim. I scrapped the idea using any of the mentioned.

What I came up with was to make a circular mask using styrene. I will paint the rims, mask the front face of the wheels, paint the tracks and most of the rubber tires, then remove the masking and one by one trim out the forward facing portions of the tires using the mask tool I made. I should be able to get a nice and tight wheel rim. That's the plan.

I think from here I will prep the base for textured paint.

End.

Gamera

Those are working out well! 

I really like the captian's advice too! 

 

Those are working out well! 

I really like the captian's advice too! 

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

there are many ways to make rocks

 

 

The late Peter, who had posted some cool stuff in Dioramas, had a technique using crumbled coarkboard which make for some cool rocks.

 

That is interesting, Capn. Could be good for say smaller rocks maybe.

Bakster

there are many ways to make rocks

The late Peter, who had posted some cool stuff in Dioramas, had a technique using crumbled coarkboard which make for some cool rocks.

I suppose there are many ways to make rocks. Foam, bark, even natural rocks. I wanted something a little easier where it didn't require wasted time looking for the perfect pieces, or to fabricate something.

Below: I found this mold and I gave it a try. To make the casts I used the same Apoxie Clay used on the base. The stuff worked great. Mash it into the mold, let it cure, and out comes a piece with excellent detail. As well, I found the pieces easy to carve, sand, or file. 

Not sure yet how I will configure the pieces, but below is a possible option. Again, not a large footprint to work with here, options are limited.

An interesting side note. Or at least, I find it so. A few months back I re-subscribed to FSM magazine. It's been several years since I last let it lapse. The price was right, I figured, what the hey. The first issue I received had an article on dioramas. The main premace of the article is why not add a base to your model. We invest much time in our build, why not take it to another level. I wholeheartedly agree. What I found interesting is that the writer subscribed to doing them in compression. Basically, what I am doing here. Make the base a small footprint and strategically cram other elements into the scene, a sort of forced perspective. Also, the article talks about materials and interestingly, they mention Durhams, amongst other things.

I had not seen the article before starting this and to me, that is the interesting part. It's the serendipity of it. I found the article to be well done and informative.

Anyhow ... I am no expert with dioramas and for the most part, I am flying by the seat of my pants. Maybe it will look good, maybe it won't. I am keeping my expectations as low as I can.

End.

Hey Gam, thanks for the additional info. I like the idea of this being a paint. I will look for it and give it a try!

Bakster, what I've been using is the Rust-oleum Multicolor Textured Caribbean Sand. It's basically as stated a sand colour but I've made asphalt by painting it dark grey and then adding a black wash. 

I normally put about two-three layers down but you can start with one and then add as it suits you. 

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/multicolor-textured

Bakster

 

 

Gamera

Looks great Bakster! Glad you beat the shrinkage!!! 

Sounds good on the texture. They do make a texture paint now in spray cans. It looks like sand or something in the paint. Just spray it on the surface and you're done- it's like you put down a layer of glue and sprinkled with sand. 

 

 

 

 

Hey Gam, thanks. Thanks too about the spray on surface. I am interested. I will do some searching. 

 

Hey Gam, I didn't have much luck. If you know who makes it or link me to it, I will investigate. If not, that is Ok too.

Gamera

Looks great Bakster! Glad you beat the shrinkage!!! 

Sounds good on the texture. They do make a texture paint now in spray cans. It looks like sand or something in the paint. Just spray it on the surface and you're done- it's like you put down a layer of glue and sprinkled with sand. 

 

Hey Gam, thanks. Thanks too about the spray on surface. I am interested. I will do some searching. 

Looks great Bakster! Glad you beat the shrinkage!!! 

Sounds good on the texture. They do make a texture paint now in spray cans. It looks like sand or something in the paint. Just spray it on the surface and you're done- it's like you put down a layer of glue and sprinkled with sand. 

Update:  Apoxie Clay did the job. It dried rock hard and zero shrinkage. I don't see the slab pulling up either. It is there to stay.

Secondly, I experimented on the Sculpey slab using Durhams. Using a round stipple brush I dabbed it on. Overall, it adds nice texture. More testing to come but I think that Durhams is the way forward for texture.

End.

I alluded to the Sculpey Clay not working out. It did as I feared, shrinkage... and significant shrinkage. You can see in the photo below how far the slab pulled away from the rails. I suppose a person can backfill that but, who's to say it's done shrinking? It is not. I pulled the slab up two days ago and is still somewhat damp. For my purposes, I give the stuff an F+. So there it is. I tried it, it's not for me. 

Out comes the Apoxie Clay. In some ways it is a little harder to work with, in other ways better. In the end, I have a much higher confidence it will work better. As well, I feel it did a better job making the track impressions. Cure time should be shorter and I'd be surprised to see it shrink like the the Sculpey. Time will tell.

Not sure yet how I will add texture to it. I am pondering maybe by adding a layer of Durham. Or, maybe, apply a white glue wash then sprinkle sand and such. If anyone has some ideas, I am open to them. 

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

Done tried and now wait to see what happens as it cures. 

The clay made track impressions very well. I added some tracks for the Robot too.

 

I tried adding some sand, gravel, and stones. This clay is not very tacky, so little of it stuck even with pressing it down. It might be that the clay started to set up too. A film starts to form as it dries. In any event, I will need to add that stuff later.

 

 

 

Looks good.  Thos huge tracks actually have really low ground pressure (great for being on snow) IRL, but the average viewer will expect that the tracks would be weighty and leave marks.

This can confuse folk, my 13.5tonne excavator with the 60cm metal tracks "marked up" things, like lawns, or pavement, far less than my 25k pound excavator on 40cm rubber tracks.  Ground pressure is fickle that way. The smaller excavtor was better at compacting dirt as a result.

 

Thanks Capn. 

I had considered limted depth for the reasons you mention. The soil could impact depth as well. But like other things in this hobby, sometimes, scale is exaggerated for the sake of being able to see it. In this case, if I am going through the trouble, I want to see it. I don't know if it's terribly accurate, don't know, but it's intended.

Anyhow, more to come.

Bakster

Done tried and now wait to see what happens as it cures. 

The clay made track impressions very well. I added some tracks for the Robot too.

 

I tried adding some sand, gravel, and stones. This clay is not very tacky, so little of it stuck even with pressing it down. It might be that the clay started to set up too. A film starts to form as it dries. In any event, I will need to add that stuff later.

Looks good.  Thos huge tracks actually have really low ground pressure (great for being on snow) IRL, but the average viewer will expect that the tracks would be weighty and leave marks.

This can confuse folk, my 13.5tonne excavator with the 60cm metal tracks "marked up" things, like lawns, or pavement, far less than my 25k pound excavator on 40cm rubber tracks.  Ground pressure is fickle that way. The smaller excavtor was better at compacting dirt as a result.

Gamera

That looks really good! I may have to try some of it in the future! 

 

Don't go buying any until my next update. My concerns are realized. More to come.

That looks really good! I may have to try some of it in the future! 

Done tried and now wait to see what happens as it cures. 

The clay made track impressions very well. I added some tracks for the Robot too.

I tried adding some sand, gravel, and stones. This clay is not very tacky, so little of it stuck even with pressing it down. It might be that the clay started to set up too. A film starts to form as it dries. In any event, I will need to add that stuff later.

Trimmed the excess around the frame.

And now it's wait and see. Have my doubts, time will tell.

CapnMac82

I might have drilled some holes, so the clay could push through and "key" to the holes, to help adhere.  Basically taking advantage of the hollow base a bit.

Great minds think alike. I originally planned to do that. What changed is my OCD said, if you don't need to drill through, it would be nice to keep it clean when looking from below.

So, I am starting with a less intrusive look. Does it really matter? Probably not. Who will see it. Will it hold? Dunno. We shall find out.

To your points about the terrain, I totally agree. Creativity is wide open to potentially mind altering realities that are yet unseen.

That said... I probably won't go wild with it. For one, the small footprint will not allow for much and I may just play it safe by modeling it like Mars or something. All I really want is some semblance of reality that does not detract from the model. My goal for now is to make a basic form of the base. Primarily, to create tracks and such. I wanted to do that now before I start paint work on the tracks.  Painting the base will probably get done last.

Thanks for the input. You give me something to think about.

Gamera

Crossing my fingers! If the epoxy doesn't hold I don't know what else to use- it's the strongest thing I have. 

Let us know how the Sculpty goes. I always use Durham's Water Putty for my bases. 

 

Say Gam, I like Durhams as well. I like the texture it produces. It gives a sort of grain to it that mimics sand or soil. The only reason I am going with a clay is to try and create track marks. So, for that, I need something that will hold a track impression. 

Fingers crossed indeed.

PS: I am pretty darn sure JB Weld will hold. That stuff gives a good bond.

Crossing my fingers! If the epoxy doesn't hold I don't know what else to use- it's the strongest thing I have. 

Let us know how the Sculpty goes. I always use Durham's Water Putty for my bases. 

Bakster

I am going to try it... part of the learning process. Worst case, I pop it up and use Apoxie Sculpt.

I might have drilled some holes, so the clay could push through and "key" to the holes, to help adhere.  Basically taking advantage of the hollow base a bit.

Was gabbing with a bro on the nature of how a person might model exo-planets, and the point was brought up that being other-worldly leaves many options.  So, who is to say that raw closed-cell foam is not realistic?  Or various forms of sponge materal?  (Either would likely want 'unusual' coloring, as well, to help reinforce the "not terrestrial" effect.)

Just beacause we have an innate knowledge of swamps and mountains and the like does not require that to be "universal."

A point was made about how, what if a given planet had only non-newtonian fluids on its surface.  Now, that sould be tricky modeling, as it would mean "puddles" would be a sort of "quicksand."

This would be complicated modeling, as the ground would not look "right."  And that would be the point of it.  But it would be curst hard to achieve.

Thought I'd lay the terrain today, fate had different plans. The frame popped off. I am not entirely surprised since all that was holding it is Tamiya glue and a plastic base with dissimilar properties. So, the glue was not effective. It seemed to hold, initially. Anyway, out came my JB Weld 24 hour epoxy. I went with long cure epoxy for maximum hold.

Lastly, I marred the base so that Sculpey has something to bite into. I have my doubts going with sculpey because it can shrink. But, it seems, shrinkage is common to all the air dry clays. I am going to try it... part of the learning process. Worst case, I pop it up and use Apoxie Sculpt.

Later.

Gamera

Yeah the shadow box looks like a great idea to display the Chariot without having to deal with space dust. 

And a 3D rock will be much lighter saving wear and tear on your delicate back, the pain, THE PAIN! 

 

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

Power will be routed via an umbilcal to a battery box. It is like what I did with the Icarus.

 

 

Keep an eye out or USB "C" connectors.  The power options are good, and the cables are ubiquitous, and you can run the diorama from a phone charger, or a portable "power pack" (which could be handy on a competition table).

 

Good input, Capn.