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Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

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  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 6:51 PM

bondoman

Without the kit in hand I can only guess, but.... I will assume that the pinrails are separate parts and don't come as part of the hull casting. If so, you should consider making your own from styrene or brass stock. Then you can position the pins and those great looking "chain" rods at will, using Campbell's drawing as a pattern.

You also should consider modeling those rod braces for the rails. Drill the holes in the deck before you install it.

Thanks bondoman. The pinrails are separate part and I am scratchbuilding a prototype pinrail at this moment. One thing i have had to reconsider are the belay pins I made. While they looked fine on the Fife Rail they are far to thick and clumsy for the pinrail.

Geoff

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 9:03 PM

A couple of points about the pinrails. 

One - when the model is finished, lots of the pins will have coils of rope draped over them, and what's behind and/or under the pinrails themselves will be difficult, if not impossible, to see.  (The number of coils will, of course, depend on how much of the running rigging is included; if all the "sail gear" - clewlines, buntlines, leechlines, sheets, etc. - are included, the vast majority of the pins will be occupied.   If you stick to the more basic running rigging - which is my strong recommendation for newcomers - there obviously won't be as many rope coils.  But a lot of the space under the pinrails will be hidden in any case.) 

Two - that being the case, you can get away with some practical modifications for the sake of strength.  Few things in ship modeling are more depressing than to see a pinrail come loose from the bulwark when you're securing the last of twenty or thirty lines to it.  There are a couple of good ways to reinforce the pinrails.  One is to run some steel pins through the rail and the bulwark.  Better - add some reinforcement under the joint where the rail and the bulwark meet.  Said reinforcement can take the form of little basswood strips, or maybe pieces of styrene.  I made the pinrails for my little model of the Hancock out of L-section Plastruct (ABS plastic structural shapes - sold in the model railroad department of the hobby shop).  The L is upside down, with the vertical leg glued to the bulwark.  The vertical part is cut away at each end, where it would be visible; in the middle it's hidden by the rope coils.  That arrangement has now held up for about twenty-five years.

As for belaying pins - that's a decision for the individual modeler.  If you've got access to a lathe, it's a no-brainer.  If not - well, the brass ones from Bluejacket (which, in my experience, are considerably more uniform in size and shape than those from Model Expo) would be a big improvement over the kit versions.  But they aren't cheap.  (Remember, though - there's no earthly reason to buy all the ones you're going to need at the same time.)  The modeler needs to balance two factors:  the expense vs. the possibility that, when the model's finished, he'll find himself saying "Sheesh, I wish I'd spent a few more bucks back last year on decent belaying pins; the model sure would look better if I had."

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 7:10 AM

John.

Your comments are always worthy of note and are part of the reason for my ‘slow’ progress in assembly of the hull. Sometimes I think I am beginning to obsess about these pinrails, however, I think it will be worth it in the long run.

I thought I had found the ultimate solution to the belay pins with my 1mm dia copper wire recovered from discarded coax. My initial prototype rail proved these to be too thick and clumsy looking. They need to be at 2mm centers in places.

Yesterday I ‘discovered’ my local hardware store sold 50’ reels of brass wire in all different gauges at around $2.50 a reel. Seemed like a bargain to me!

I took your point, early on, about reinforcing the rails and that is one of the reasons I would like to have the rails attached to the hull before assembly.  It would seem to be almost impossible to do a good job of this once they were in place as per the kit instructions.

I was impressed with the look of Paul Robertson’s model where he had replaced those Bulwark supports:-

 

I take the point that not all of these will be visible on the finished ship.

Geoff

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 7:10 AM

GeoffWilkinson

 

 Shipwreck:

 

Geoff, I am glade to see you getting so ambitious about your Cutty Sark build. What I am doing is scratch building the pinrails that support the deadeyes. My new rails are about 7/32 wide and about 3 1/2 inches long. That gives me room to layout the belaying pins and dead eyes as in Campbell's plans. It also allows room for small bits and relocation of the wrenches. I am still working on a prototype for the main mast pinrails. They are nice and straight. The challenge will be the pinrails for the fore mast which must fit the curve of the bow. The next problem will be securing them to the hull so that they will stay there. I have been through several ways of doing that. At this point I plan on attaching strips of angle styrene to the bulwarks and then attaching the pin rails to both the styrene shelf and the bulwarks. The new pinrails will experience stress that the kit pinrails would never have to take.
I have those neat photos of the rigging and bullwarks in black and white. Where did you get the neat color shots?

With a scale size pinrail you might just be able to squeeze the deck in!

 

 

So, I am not alone! It’s very refreshing to hear that someone else is on a parallel course with me. Do you have any photo’s of your prototype?

The color shots I found on the internet in an album belonging to rubydragon_63. I have just tried to find his album again – without success although I did see some pics of his CS build. If you PM your email I can email you some of the photo’s I do have that may help you.

Geoff

 

 

I will not be working on the pinrails till next week. As soon as I can get something that seems to be worthwhile; I will try to share it!  When you space out your pinrails and then the deadeyes in a row behind them, consider the size of deadeyes you will be using. Campbell calls for 10, 9, 7, and 6 inch dia. dead eyes. You will not be able to duplicate those sizes in scale, unless you scratch build your own. I plan on using 1/8" for the 10" deadeyes and 3/32" for the rest (the upper deadeyes 3/32” and 1/16”). Visually, this will show that there is a difference! Also, you need to consider holes to mount the skids and davits on the main rail. BTW, the kit boats and skids are way short of scale. Easy fix to spread out the skids, but the boats would be ridiculously short!

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Kinetic 1/48 YF-104A 5-2957

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep & Reasearch

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 7:27 AM

GeoffWilkinson

I took your point, early on, about reinforcing the rails and that is one of the reasons I would like to have the rails attached to the hull before assembly.  It would seem to be almost impossible to do a good job of this once they were in place as per the kit instructions.

Geoff

 

 

Geoff, I will share my thoughts about attaching the rails before the deck. If you install your pinrails, stanchions, and chainplate, etc., then start flexing the hull in order to get your deck in place; you may be putting stress on all those connections on the hull. I do not think you will want to compromise the strength of all your good work!

On the other hand, if you can just drop that deck in place between those pinrails; you just made your build a lot easier! My pinrails are about 7/32", and that is a real tight clearance to get the deck between them! I would have to flex the hull out an addition 5/32" or so to get the deck in. And, wonder if you have to manipulate the deck to get it where it belongs?

 

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Kinetic 1/48 YF-104A 5-2957

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep & Reasearch

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 7:32 AM

Geoff,

One thing to remember when replacing the belaying pins with straight wire is you need to consider when you drill the hole it will be work to get the small wire into a slightly smaller hole.  Unless you decide to drill the hole slightly bigger and add a touch of ACC glue. Which is work in itself.  That is why I decided to use the brass pre-made belaying pins.  They are flared at the top half and won't fall through the hole drilled. You can still use a touch of ACC glue on the underside of the BP rack, so they won't move around or fall out while you setting the rack in place.

In this pic, I was able to carefully trim and paint the pin a tan color which looked great.

http://news.webshots.com/photo/1208521167054402330jhrTbU

BUT when I've done other Cutty Sarks, I use the brass premade pins, saves me about 3 hours of painting and retrimming.

Other sections of the ship need just about as much attention.  Depending on what period of her history you are modeling.  The detail on the cabin painting was just about the other most  PITA part of the build. This pictures shows the correct way to paint the panels as painted during her launching. The inset sections are correctly painted white, NOT brown as in the instructions. The best way is to paint these are to mask with micro tape, paint, seal with a flatining agent, remove the mask and paint the brown on.

http://news.webshots.com/photo/1208521301054402330Oafhvz

The white trim at the cabin top edges are correct, I have NO EARTHLY Idea why in some versions of the instructions they say to paint the rof sections  "blue".

Jake

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 7:34 AM

IF I ever figure out how to post pictures in these threads it will be great, but damn, I've tried and tried and tried, I give up.  Maybe it's something to do with web shots, Either I get no picture or a really small one.

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 9:39 AM

Jake,

IM me your email and I'll send you a sheet that explains how to do it.

Geoff

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 11:18 AM

Regarding the deckhouse paneling -

Mr. Campbell was of the opinion that when the ship was built the sides of the deckhouses were unpainted teak (presumably oiled and/or varnished).  His source is the "Tudgay Painting," which apparently was commissioned by John Willis, the ship's owner, at about the time she was launched.  I think (I'm not sure) there's also a painting by a Chinese artist that appears to date from quite early in her career and seems to show the deckhouse sides as a uniform brown.

Unfortunately the earliest extant photographs of her date from a somewhat later period in her career - when Captain Woodget commanded her.  It's quite clear that the white paint had been added to the panels by then.

She'd undergone at least one other major change of appearance by then:  the skysail yard had been removed from the mainmast.  An interesting question:  did the deckhouse sides get painted before or after the skysail yard was removed?  (In other words - is it correct to show the deckhouses with the white paint and the skysail yard fitted?)  Answer:  I have no idea.

One possible explanation of the change in color scheme is that the teak paneling got beat up in some way, and the white paint was added as a means of hiding the damage.  But that's pure speculation on my part.

On another website a Cutty Sark enthusiast rather emphatically contended that the Tudgay painting doesn't deserve to be taken seriously as a source.  I disagree; it seems to be just about the only primary source we have that shows the ship in her original configuration.  But that doesn't necessarily mean that it depiction of the deckhouse bulkheads is correct.

Those parts are among the weaker ones in the Revell kit, which depicts the panels in the form of fine raised lines surrounding the areas that (sometime or other) were painted white.  In reality the paneling is considerably fancier than that.  Both Imai and Airfix actually did a better job of represenitng it.  (I haven't seen either of the Academy kits, but I think they fall in the same category.  I have a suspicion that the most recent Academy version is in fact a clone of the Imai one.)

Bottom line:  the modeler can paint the deckhouse bulkheads in either style, and be pretty confident that nobody can prove it's wrong.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 12:11 PM

jtilley

Regarding the deckhouse paneling -

Mr. Campbell was of the opinion that when the ship was built the sides of the deckhouses were unpainted teak (presumably oiled and/or varnished).  His source is the "Tudgay Painting," which apparently was commissioned by John Willis, the ship's owner, at about the time she was launched.  I think (I'm not sure) there's also a painting by a Chinese artist that appears to date from quite early in her career and seems to show the deckhouse sides as a uniform brown.

Unfortunately the earliest extant photographs of her date from a somewhat later period in her career - when Captain Woodget commanded her.  It's quite clear that the white paint had been added to the panels by then.

She'd undergone at least one other major change of appearance by then:  the skysail yard had been removed from the mainmast.  An interesting question:  did the deckhouse sides get painted before or after the skysail yard was removed?  (In other words - is it correct to show the deckhouses with the white paint and the skysail yard fitted?)  Answer:  I have no idea.>>>Bottom line:  the modeler can paint the deckhouse bulkheads in either style, and be pretty confident that nobody can prove it's wrong.

 

We need to keep in mind that the original plans by John Rene indicated only one deckhouse on the fore part of the ship. According to the good people at the Cutty Sark Trust, the second deckhouse was added late in 1782. Probably while in dry dock being fitted with a new rudder. The Tudgay painting was probably after the refit. There is a painting by Francis Smitheman depicting the Cutty Sark leaving Shanghai just before loosing her rudder while racing Thermopylae. In that painting Cutty Sark has only one brown deckhouse (on the aft part of the deck concistant with other documents)!

We have had discussions about Smitheman's painting not being an original source. It probably is not; but, if you put put all the knowledge we have of the Cutty Sark at that time and put it on canvas, it would probably look very much like Smitherman painted it.

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Kinetic 1/48 YF-104A 5-2957

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep & Reasearch

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 3:33 PM

jtilley

Regarding the deckhouse paneling -

.......Those parts are among the weaker ones in the Revell kit, which depicts the panels in the form of fine raised lines surrounding the areas that (sometime or other) were painted white.  In reality the paneling is considerably fancier than that.......

Bottom line:  the modeler can paint the deckhouse bulkheads in either style, and be pretty confident that nobody can prove it's wrong.

I have come across this discussion in the past and had, more or less, decided to follow the Tudgay (and CS Org) color scheme. Your comments on the kit, John, just reinforce that decision.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 7:50 PM

The booklet by Mr. Carr that I mentioned in an earlier post includes a small copy of the inboard profile and maindeck plans by John Rennie - which are reliably reported to have been drawn before the ship was built (or, at least, before she was launched).  The after deckhouse is indeed missing from both those drawings.

Mr. Campbell says, in one of the little notes on his plans, that the after deckhouse was present "in 1871, if not when launched."  It's entirely possible, though, that the researchers have turned up some additional information since those plans were drawn (which was, after all, about fifty years ago). 

If I were building a model of this ship (heaven forbid), I think my inclination would be to include the after deckhouse, leave off the white panels on the deckhouse bulkheads, and include the main skysail - simply because, to my eye, all those options make her look better.  But that's certainly not the only approach to take. 

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Wednesday, July 7, 2010 9:53 PM

Since we were talking about the wood grain effect earlier, I'll try my hand at the first picture post.  This is the deck of the DaVinci Paddle Boat, I think it came out quite well.

Jake

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Thursday, July 8, 2010 8:42 AM

 

I think Geoff has created a monster!

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Thursday, July 8, 2010 8:49 AM

Oh dear! I guess you were able to follow my instructions..

Geoff

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Thursday, July 8, 2010 4:24 PM

Just ordered my deadeyes and 10' 42lpi chain - 150 3.5mm deadeyes for 6 bucks, 10' chain $5.20.

I thought that was pretty good pricing.

Model Expo are having a sale if anyone is interested.

Geoff

  • Member since
    December 2006
Posted by woodburner on Thursday, July 8, 2010 10:38 PM

Here is a contemporary model of a ship with white and wood cabins, in the NMM collection similar to ones shown on Cutty Sark.  

object.cfm?ID=SLR1847

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Friday, July 9, 2010 9:19 AM

woodburner

I can't address the Cutty Sark deckhouse paneling, but perhaps some background information could help.

Both options were in use in the early 1870s, and in fact at the height of their stylistic popularity.   It allows either one to be at least a stylistic option available to the owners of the ship - but what Cutty Sark had, I cant remark on - all I can do as suggest that both were contemporary.  

Useful input Jim.

Tudgay also painted ‘The Dunedin’, built in Glasgow in 1874. The deckhouse is also depicted in a uniform color. I am sure the owners/captains of these vessels would not have tolerated such an error in detail.

Close up of Deck house.

John referred earlier to the painting by a Chinese artist. The photo I have of this painting is not good enough to draw any conclusions but I thought I would post it anyway.

I have given much thought to the subject of how to represent and display a model of a ship. There has been much discussion, already, about the metal cladding and what is correct.

I’m not sure what is ‘correct’.

This is the way I feel – looking at a model is like looking at a three dimensional painting. A painting is merely a series of brush strokes of pigment on a canvas which is ‘converted’ into an image by our brain. When looking at an abstract painting no two people ‘see’ the same thing. Imagination goes to work.

In real life, the only time one would see the complete hull of a ship would be in dry dock. You would never see the hull of a ship under full sail. You would never see the hull of a ship with a huge section of planking removed exposing the cargo, stores etc.  yet ships are modeled in these ways – example on the cover of Wolfram zu Monfeld’s book ‘Historic Ship Models’.

A model only fails when it ‘doesn’t look right’ and that is in the eye of the beholder. The model above is impossible in reality but does it look wrong? Well, not to me. My eye only concentrates on parts of the model at any one time. My imagination then takes over. One moment I could be on the deck fighting with the wheel to maintain a steady course, climbing the ratlines, scared to death being out on the footropes, below deck watching cargo being stowed.

So, to start with, the first impression of the model has to match our expectations to look right. If I had never seen a ship in my life and the first model I saw had the roofs of the deckhouses colored bright purple then so be it. It wouldn’t look wrong but to most other people it would.

Then we start looking at detail. If our overall impression draws us to closer examination, the mass of rigging may hold most people in awe. However, anyone with a knowledge of the subject may observe terrible errors and that would lead to the disappointment of that individual.

First and foremost, my model has to ‘look right’ to me. It will have to draw out the memories and impressions of when I first saw her in dry-dock in Greenwich,  London. The finer details will then have to correctly describe  things to match with the knowledge I hold of that subject.

If the final outcome makes me happy then it was all worthwhile. If it gives others pleasure too then that is a bonus.

Geoff

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Lacombe, LA.
Posted by Big Jake on Saturday, July 10, 2010 7:39 PM

You know since we've covered JUST about every aspect of the ship, I'd thought I post this for the die hards amoungst us..

TAM O'SHANTER

"Of Brownyis and of Bogillis full is this Buke."
Gawin Douglas.

When chapman billies leave the street,
And drouthy neibors, neibors, meet;
As market days are wearing late,
And folk begin to tak the gate,
While we sit bousing at the nappy,
An' getting fou and unco happy,
We think na on the lang Scots miles,
The mosses, waters, slaps and stiles,
That lie between us and our hame,
Where sits our sulky, sullen dame,
Gathering her brows like gathering storm,
Nursing her wrath to keep it warm.

This truth fand honest Tam o' Shanter,
As he frae Ayr ae night did canter:
(Auld Ayr, wham ne'er a town surpasses,
For honest men and bonie lasses).

O Tam! had'st thou but been sae wise,
As taen thy ain wife Kate's advice!
She tauld thee weel thou was a skellum,
A blethering, blustering, drunken blellum;
That frae November till October,
Ae market-day thou was na sober;
That ilka melder wi' the Miller,
Thou sat as lang as thou had siller;
That ev'ry naig was ca'd a shoe on
The Smith and thee gat roarin' fou on;
That at the Lord's house, ev'n on Sunday,
Thou drank wi' Kirkton Jean till Monday,
She prophesied that late or soon,
Thou wad be found, deep drown'd in Doon,
Or catch'd wi' warlocks in the mirk,
By Alloway's auld, haunted kirk.

Ah, gentle dames! it gars me greet,
To think how mony counsels sweet,
How mony lengthen'd, sage advices,
The husband frae the wife despises!

But to our tale: Ae market night,
Tam had got planted unco right,
Fast by an ingle, bleezing finely,
Wi reaming sAats, that drank divinely;
And at his elbow, Souter Johnie,
His ancient, trusty, drougthy crony:
Tam lo'ed him like a very brither;
They had been fou for weeks thegither.
The night drave on wi' sangs an' clatter;
And aye the ale was growing better:
The Landlady and Tam grew gracious,
Wi' favours secret, sweet, and precious:
The Souter tauld his queerest stories;
The Landlord's laugh was ready chorus:
The storm without might rair and rustle,
Tam did na mind the storm a whistle.

Care, mad to see a man sae happy,
E'en drown'd himsel amang the nappy.
As bees flee hame wi' lades o' treasure,
The minutes wing'd their way wi' pleasure:
Kings may be blest, but Tam was glorious,
O'er a' the ills o' life victorious!

But pleasures are like poppies spread,
You seize the flow'r, its bloom is shed;
Or like the snow falls in the river,
A moment white-then melts for ever;
Or like the Borealis race,
That flit ere you can point their place;
Or like the Rainbow's lovely form
Evanishing amid the storm. -
Nae man can tether Time nor Tide,
The hour approaches Tam maun ride;
That hour, o' night's black arch the key-stane,
That dreary hour he mounts his beast in;
And sic a night he taks the road in,
As ne'er poor sinner was abroad in.

The wind blew as 'twad blawn its last;
The rattling showers rose on the blast;
The speedy gleams the darkness swallow'd;
Loud, deep, and lang, the thunder bellow'd:
That night, a child might understand,
The deil had business on his hand.

Weel-mounted on his grey mare, Meg,
A better never lifted leg,
Tam skelpit on thro' dub and mire,
Despising wind, and rain, and fire;
Whiles holding fast his gude blue bonnet,
Whiles crooning o'er some auld Scots sonnet,
Whiles glow'rin round wi' prudent cares,
Lest bogles catch him unawares;
Kirk-Alloway was drawing nigh,
Where ghaists and houlets nightly cry.

By this time he was cross the ford,
Where in the snaw the chapman smoor'd;
And past the birks and meikle stane,
Where drunken Charlie brak's neck-bane;
And thro' the whins, and by the cairn,
Where hunters fand the murder'd bairn;
And near the thorn, aboon the well,
Where Mungo's mither hang'd hersel'.
Before him Doon pours all his floods,
The doubling storm roars thro' the woods,
The lightnings flash from pole to pole,
Near and more near the thunders roll,
When, glimmering thro' the groaning trees,
Kirk-Alloway seem'd in a bleeze,
Thro' ilka bore the beams were glancing,
And loud resounded mirth and dancing.

Inspiring bold John Barleycorn!
What dangers thou canst make us scorn!
Wi' tippenny, we fear nae evil;
Wi' usquabae, we'll face the devil!
The swats sae ream'd in Tammie's noddle,
Fair play, he car'd na deils a boddle,
But Maggie stood, right sair astonish'd,
Till, by the heel and hand admonish'd,
She ventur'd forward on the light;
And, wow! Tam saw an unco sight!

Warlocks and witches in a dance:
Nae cotillon, brent new frae France,
But hornpipes, jigs, strathspeys, and reels,
Put life and mettle in their heels.
A winnock-bunker in the east,
There sat auld Nick, in shape o' beast;
A towzie tyke, black, grim, and large,
To gie them music was his charge:
He screw'd the pipes and gart them skirl,
Till roof and rafters a' did dirl. -
Coffins stood round, like open presses,
That shaw'd the Dead in their last dresses;
And (by some devilish cantraip sleight)
Each in its cauld hand held a light.
By which heroic Tam was able
To note upon the haly table,
A murderer's banes, in gibbet-airns;
Twa span-lang, wee, unchristened bairns;
A thief, new-cutted frae a rape,
Wi' his last gasp his gabudid gape;
Five tomahawks, wi' blude red-rusted:
Five scimitars, wi' murder crusted;
A garter which a babe had strangled:
A knife, a father's throat had mangled.
Whom his ain son of life bereft,
The grey-hairs yet stack to the heft;
Wi' mair of horrible and awfu',
Which even to name wad be unlawfu'.
Three lawyers tongues, turned inside oot,
Wi' lies, seamed like a beggars clout,
Three priests hearts, rotten, black as muck,
Lay stinkin, vile in every neuk.

As Tammie glowr'd, amaz'd, and curious,
The mirth and fun grew fast and furious;
The Piper loud and louder blew,
The dancers quick and quicker flew,
The reel'd, they set, they cross'd, they cleekit,
Till ilka carlin swat and reekit,
And coost her duddies to the wark,
And linkit at it in her sark!

Now Tam, O Tam! had they been queans,
A' plump and strapping in their teens!
Their sarks, instead o' creeshie flainen,
Been snaw-white seventeen hunder linen!-
Thir breeks o' mine, my only pair,
That ance were plush o' guid blue hair,
I wad hae gien them off my hurdies,
For ae blink o' the bonie burdies!
But wither'd beldams, auld and droll,
Rigwoodie hags wad spean a foal,
Louping an' flinging on a crummock.
I wonder did na turn thy stomach.

But Tam kent what was what fu' brawlie:
There was ae winsome wench and waulie
That night enlisted in the core,
Lang after ken'd on Carrick shore;
(For mony a beast to dead she shot,
And perish'd mony a bonie boat,
And shook baith meikle corn and bear,
And kept the country-side in fear);
Her cutty sark, o' Paisley harn,
That while a lassie she had worn,
In longitude tho' sorely scanty,
It was her best, and she was vauntie.
Ah! little ken'd thy reverend grannie,
That sark she coft for her wee Nannie,
Wi twa pund Scots ('twas a' her riches),
Wad ever grac'd a dance of witches!

But here my Muse her wing maun cour,
Sic flights are far beyond her power;
To sing how Nannie lap and flang,
(A souple jade she was and strang),
And how Tam stood, like ane bewithc'd,
And thought his very een enrich'd:
Even Satan glowr'd, and fidg'd fu' fain,
And hotch'd and blew wi' might and main:
Till first ae caper, syne anither,
Tam tint his reason a thegither,
And roars out, "Weel done, Cutty-sark!"
And in an instant all was dark:
And scarcely had he Maggie rallied.
When out the hellish legion sallied.

As bees bizz out wi' angry fyke,
When plundering herds assail their byke;
As open pussie's mortal foes,
When, pop! she starts before their nose;
As eager runs the market-crowd,
When "Catch the thief!" resounds aloud;
So Maggie runs, the witches follow,
Wi' mony an eldritch skreich and hollow.

Ah, Tam! Ah, Tam! thou'll get thy fairin!
In hell, they'll roast thee like a herrin!
In vain thy Kate awaits thy comin!
Kate soon will be a woefu' woman!
Now, do thy speedy-utmost, Meg,
And win the key-stone o' the brig;^1
There, at them thou thy tail may toss,
A running stream they dare na cross.
But ere the keystane she could make,
The fient a tail she had to shake!
For Nannie, far before the rest,
Hard upon noble Maggie prest,
And flew at Tam wi' furious ettle;
But little wist she Maggie's mettle!
Ae spring brought off her master hale,
But left behind her ain grey tail:
The carlin claught her by the rump,
And left poor Maggie scarce a stump.

Now, wha this tale o' truth shall read,
Ilk man and mother's son, take heed:
Whene'er to Drink you are inclin'd,
Or Cutty-sarks rin in your mind,
Think ye may buy the joys o'er dear;
Remember Tam o' Shanter's mare.

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Monday, July 12, 2010 9:20 AM

 

uote user="GeoffWilkinson"]

 

 Shipwreck: Do you have any photo’s of your prototype?

 

Geoff

[/quote]

This is what I have so far.  What you see is a full set of belaying pins, a couple of overscale eyes, a 1/8" deadeye representing the 10" deadeyes, and a 3/32" deadeyes which will represent the 6, 7, & 9" deadeyes. If a hole is off even 1/64", it is noticible. I am building (trying to build) two ships, a Cutty Sark and a Maria do Amparo. That means I need a total of eight pinrails for the deadeyes.

 

 

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Kinetic 1/48 YF-104A 5-2957

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep & Reasearch

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Monday, July 12, 2010 10:46 AM

Shipwreck

This is what I have so far.  What you see is a full set of belaying pins, a couple of overscale eyes, a 1/8" deadeye representing the 10" deadeyes, and a 3/32" deadeyes which will represent the 6, 7, & 9" deadeyes. If a hole is off even 1/64", it is noticible. I am building (trying to build) two ships, a Cutty Sark and a Maria do Amparo. That means I need a total of eight pinrails for the deadeyes.

 

That looks pretty impressive and better than my attempts so far. How did you get the holes so precise?

I have been pretty quiet the past few days because I was disappointed with my first couple of prototypes. You obviously hit the same problem that I experienced with the accuracy of the holes. I was trying to drill the holes with a hand held pin drill and it seems the years have not improved my hand/eye co-ordination skills!

I have spent most of the weekend trying to build a drilling machine out of junk. I will post pictures if it works! I do wish my parents had not disposed of the huge collection of Meccano (Erector Set) parts I had as a boy – 40 years ago.

Where did you get the 1/8” deadeyes? I could only find 9/64” and 3/32”.

Have you given any thought to what you will use for the Mizzen Royal Backstay deadeyes? I just wonder it the 3/32” might look too big.

My other concern is actually threading the lower deadeyes when they are so close to thee Bulwarks.

Geoff

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Monday, July 12, 2010 11:05 AM

Big Jake

You know since we've covered JUST about every aspect of the ship, I'd thought I post this for the die hards amoungst us..

TAM O'SHANTER

Jake,

I’m not sure of the relevance of this. Fortunately, I was spared eighteenth century Scottish poetry in my English Lit classes at high school. Shakespeare was enough for me. However, in my youth, my mother warned me, similarly:-

Ilk man and mother's son, take heed:
Whene'er to Drink you are inclin'd,
Or Cutty-
sarks rin in your mind,
Think ye may buy the joys o'er dear;
Remember Tam o' Shanter's mare.

Geoff

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Monday, July 12, 2010 12:49 PM

GeoffWilkinson

 

 Shipwreck:

 

This is what I have so far.  What you see is a full set of belaying pins, a couple of overscale eyes, a 1/8" deadeye representing the 10" deadeyes, and a 3/32" deadeyes which will represent the 6, 7, & 9" deadeyes. If a hole is off even 1/64", it is noticible. I am building (trying to build) two ships, a Cutty Sark and a Maria do Amparo. That means I need a total of eight pinrails for the deadeyes.

 

 

That looks pretty impressive and better than my attempts so far. How did you get the holes so precise?
I have been pretty quiet the past few days because I was disappointed with my first couple of prototypes. You obviously hit the same problem that I experienced with the accuracy of the holes. I was trying to drill the holes with a hand held pin drill and it seems the years have not improved my hand/eye co-ordination skills!
I have spent most of the weekend trying to build a drilling machine out of junk. I will post pictures if it works! I do wish my parents had not disposed of the huge collection of Meccano (Erector Set) parts I had as a boy – 40 years ago.
Where did you get the 1/8” deadeyes? I could only find 9/64” and 3/32”.
Have you given any thought to what you will use for the Mizzen Royal Backstay deadeyes? I just wonder it the 3/32” might look too big.
My other concern is actually threading the lower deadeyes when they are so close to thee Bulwarks.
Geoff

 

Thanks for your comment. I probably cut about a dozen of them before I had matching pairs (fore and main) for two ships (8 pairs total). The first batch was the exact length of the kit rails (read - direct replacement). Then I decided to match them to campbell's plans and include the wrench and bits on the rails. That added about 1/4", or start over! 

After cutting new pieces I took one and drew a line for the pinrails 1/16" from the edge, then another line for the deadeyes 1/8" from the edge. That give me about 3/32" to the bulwarks. Some of that 3/32" will be taken up with half the thickness of the deadeyes and and the diameter of the lanyards. That means you will have to, at least, reeve your lanyards and deadeyes, if not set them up, before you install them on the rails. The belaying pins can go in last! Three-sixty-fourths  offset for the belaying pin line would be closer to scale, but I am shooting for the least amount of counter-leverage of the rail in order to reduce the chance of breaking it off!

I measured of the first belaying pin hole and punched the plastic with a fine punch. That gave a seat to start drilling. Even so, the no. 78 drill bit sometimes walked 1/6"! And, I ware those magnifying glasses that have a band that goes around your head, or I cannot see anything that small!

I got all my stuff through BlueJacket after shopping around. The 1/8" stropped deadeyes are no. F0203, and the 1/8" scored are F0321 at $3.74and $3.28/ dozen. The 6/16" scored bullseyes, F0340 were $2.36/ doz.

We never discussed the Mizzen deadeyes and lanyards. They are nothing like Revell represents them and will be a challenge trying to get the belaying pins to remain in a vertical position. Anyway, I plan on using 3/32" deadeyes for the top mast. On the topgallant I plan on using 1/16" bullseyes. The 1/16 bullseyes will probably be used for anything else that needs them. At 1/96 scale, there not much of a chance of getting a 1/16" deadeye. After setting up a 1/16" bullseye, just fill it with glue, paint it, and it is now a deadeye!

Good questions, Geoff! They make me think about what I am trying to do. Some of the questions you have asked; I have not even thought of yet. Keep asking and please share your progress. I am on a very slow pace, so I expect to see your finished product long before I am near complete.

Question! The photos that I posted are small; can you double click on them and see a reasonably large Photo? I used PhotoBucket!

 

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Kinetic 1/48 YF-104A 5-2957

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep & Reasearch

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Monday, July 12, 2010 1:49 PM

Shipwreck

Thanks for your comment. I probably cut about a dozen of them before I had matching pairs (fore and main) for two ships (8 pairs total). The first batch was the exact length of the kit rails (read - direct replacement). Then I decided to match them to campbell's plans and include the wrench and bits on the rails. That added about 1/4", or start over! 

After cutting new pieces I took one and drew a line for the pinrails 1/16" from the edge, then another line for the deadeyes 1/8" from the edge. That give me about 3/32" to the bulwarks. Some of that 3/32" will be taken up with half the thickness of the deadeyes and and the diameter of the lanyards. That means you will have to, at least, reeve your lanyards and deadeyes, if not set them up, before you install them on the rails. The belaying pins can go in last! Three-sixty-fourths  offset for the belaying pin line would be closer to scale, but I am shooting for the least amount of counter-leverage of the rail in order to reduce the chance of breaking it off!

I measured of the first belaying pin hole and punched the plastic with a fine punch. That gave a seat to start drilling. Even so, the no. 78 drill bit sometimes walked 1/6"! And, I ware those magnifying glasses that have a band that goes around your head, or I cannot see anything that small!

I got all my stuff through BlueJacket after shopping around. The 1/8" stropped deadeyes are no. F0203, and the 1/8" scored are F0321 at $3.74and $3.28/ dozen. The 6/16" scored bullseyes, F0340 were $2.36/ doz.

We never discussed the Mizzen deadeyes and lanyards. They are nothing like Revell represents them and will be a challenge trying to get the belaying pins to remain in a vertical position. Anyway, I plan on using 3/32" deadeyes for the top mast. On the topgallant I plan on using 1/16" bullseyes. The 1/16 bullseyes will probably be used for anything else that needs them. At 1/96 scale, there not much of a chance of getting a 1/16" deadeye. After setting up a 1/16" bullseye, just fill it with glue, paint it, and it is now a deadeye!

Good questions, Geoff! They make me think about what I am trying to do. Some of the questions you have asked; I have not even thought of yet. Keep asking and please share your progress. I am on a very slow pace, so I expect to see your finished product long before I am near complete.

Question! The photos that I posted are small; can you double click on them and see a reasonably large Photo? I used PhotoBucket!

 

I had noticed the difference in length to include the bollards and winch. Did you also see the note regarding eyes for the halliards? Also, what do the marks represent under the letter L of skysail and D of halliard?

The drill ‘walking’ was one of the biggest problems I has experiencing – hence my question and attempt to make a machine.

I will check out the BlueJacket site although I have already ordered some deadeyes from ModelExpo. The bullseyes seem to make sense but 1/16” is pretty small to handle but would probably look right.

At the current rate of progress I’m not sure when I will get this thing built. I’m trying to ‘think ahead’ all the time to try and avoid errors that would later turn into disasters.

I’m just pleased to know that someone else is working along the same lines at the same time.

PhotoBucket – Your pictures are a bit on the small side for examining detail. They do get a bit bigger when I double click, but not much. I also use PhotoBuscket, I save my pics for the Forum at 500px (yours are 320 x 240). I think you could go up a little bit.

Geoff

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Lyons Colorado, USA
Posted by Ray Marotta on Monday, July 12, 2010 2:08 PM

Copper is still the active ingredient in modern anti-fouling paint...

All the best

Ray

 ]

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Winchester,Va.
Posted by rcweasel on Monday, July 12, 2010 7:58 PM

You mentioned the problem of drill walking. Even when I was young and doing remodling and maintenance my hands were none too steady. One trick I used was to start with a much smaller drill bit and go all the way through. When you switch to the size you want, it should follow the track of the small bit. If there is a very large difference, you might have to run a midsize bit through. Also you will only need a smaller punch or even a pin to make a starter mark, that will also be more accurate. It's also a lot cheaper than a drill press. I hope this helps.

Bundin er båtleysir maøur - Bound is the boatless man

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Friday, July 30, 2010 6:51 PM

After a brief interruption by domestic duties and a visit by family I am now just getting back on track. I’m still working on those Pin rails. I have made very detailed drawings and a number of prototypes to get to a point where I have, what seems to be, a workable solution.

Campbell calls for 4”, 6”, 6½”, 7”, 9” & 10” deadeyes. I have 2.5mm and 3.5mm walnut deadeyes and propose using 2.5mm for the 6” – 7” and 3.5mm for the 9” – 10”. I would need 24 bullseyes, approx. 1mm or 1/32” dia. I’m not sure such things are available this small.

While concentrating on this area of the plans another question has arisen where there seems to be a conflict between the Revell rigging instructions and Campbell’s drawings.

Revell show a shroud from the 6th deadeye and the capstay, from the 7th deadeye, looped over the top of the mast caps.

The Capstay arrangement just looked wrong. I have been trying to figure out the true arrangement of fittings on the mast caps and it looks as though the Capstays should be rigged to eyes on the cap rather than looped over the top.

As far as I can see, the 6th and 8th deadeyes are for the topmast backstay.

Has anyone else noticed these irregularities?

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Friday, July 30, 2010 7:05 PM

We were about to send out the longboat with a couple of marines! Welcome back!

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Saturday, July 31, 2010 10:04 PM

My bullseyes-scored came from BlueJacket, Item # F0340, 1/16" @ $2.36/doz. My 1/8" and 3/32" deadeyes also came from BlueJacket!

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Kinetic 1/48 YF-104A 5-2957

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep & Reasearch

 

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Cocoa, Florida
Posted by GeoffWilkinson on Monday, August 2, 2010 12:37 PM

Shipwreck

My bullseyes-scored came from BlueJacket, Item # F0340, 1/16" @ $2.36/doz. My 1/8" and 3/32" deadeyes also came from BlueJacket!

Thanks for that info. I am quite a way off needing the bullseyes so I will wait for a while and see if I can combine something else to ease the s&h pain.

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