Airfix wasa and ratlines.

thanks for the tip,i have thought about how to "highlight" the planks.
its the space in between the planks i should darken right?
i can take my black colour but i wonder if my thinner works...cause its not made for hobbypaint.

im thinking about to start on wasa again,but not building,painting as this is for me the most fun thing to do.
ill touch up some faults,fill in where it has not been painted properly,and i found out that mom keeps some hobbypaints in the...uhm...i dont know the word for it...laundryhouse?
its not a laundry room but ill say that.
its just 4 basic colours but just the ones i need,since i dont have yellow and green and im gonna use hers to paint the ornaments and sculptures,atleast try. 

CoreTech,

One thing that would help your decks look more realistic is a dark wash to bring out the planks.  Mix 1 part dark brown or black with 5 of thinner and let it run over the plank lines.  Another method is to darken the lines with pencils or charcoal. 

Bill Morrison

here is the photo update,although not much of an update but still.
some of the yardmasts have fallen of so...http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb428/Core-Tech/DSC00636.jpghttp://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb428/Core-Tech/DSC00636.jpg 
the glue spots i talked about (or stains)
http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb428/Core-Tech/DSC00633.jpg
sorry,my camera isnt the best..

i wish we had more money and lived in england or something,models aren't the biggest industry here in sweden.
but i agree,batavia looks very beautiful and im eager to build it. 
though the rigging is a pain indeed... 

Actually, that is how so many of us approach the hobby!  One kit gives some trouble, lay it to rest for awhile and come back to it sometime in the future and get something else.  Many of us have collections of hundreds of kits that we have accumulated in this manner.  Mine is over 500 kits, some started, most not, and about 50 completed.  The point is to have fun with what you are modeling . . . when it becomes frustrating, put it down and come back to it later.

Batavia is an excellent kit; mine sits in a protective display case in my den. But, you will experience some of the same rigging issues.

Bill Morrison

technicly its my second,but my first serious attempt,so i say its my first,my previous experiences is 2 houses,one tank, and 2 swedish fighter jets.
wich doesnt give a lot when your building a sailing ship 
my first ship was wasa but i was so sloppy that i barely want to tell you about it.
humiliating.
but ill lay wasa to rest for a while,also post pictures to show you how it looks.
maybe ill go for the batavia instead of victory,if thats less of a challenge... 
or maybe ill just buy a tank or something,pretty fun little builds,and often ends up extremely nice looking. 

CoreTech,

I would put it down for a few days then try to tackle it again.  Is this your first sailing ship?  If so, please understand that sailing ships present unique challenges; many have said that it is the most difficult type of modeling.  Rigging properly takes time, patience, and more patience (even for those of us who are much more experienced at it!)

Stay patient and keep asking questions! It might help if you could show us some pictures.

Bill Morrison

hmm...well,maybe ill stick with with the basic rigging and no shrouds...but i still want the model to be complete.
as you may notice i am not good at taking decisions.
probably ill justlet it rest for a while then continue,ill give you a small update on it later either today or tomorrow. 

I'd recommend taking a break. Whenever I get frustrated with a sailing ship model I build a cheap 1/72 aircraft kit. Usually helps. I wouldn't recommend trying to rig the small scale HMS Victory  (either Revell 1/225 or Airfix 1/180) as if anything it is even more fiddly. I'm sure you'll get the hang of the Wasa.

Failing that, you could always scrap the rigging and represent Wasa on her launch- Like this rather nice diorama:

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/ftopic15871-0-0-asc-.php

I really like the presentation of this model.

Will

this model is getting reeeeaaaally frustrating,the shrouds are coming off all the time,i have tied shrouds for the whole ship on just 3 deadeyes,and on top of that i have lost a gun hatch.
i dont know if its best to lay this to rest for a while or i should force myself to complete it.
im thinking about buying hms victory and work on her instead.
im pretty sick of wasa. 

too bad but still thanks warshipguy!
enemeink,im thinking about the hull,as you said the wasa was a new ship and the deck wouldn't be weared out so im gonna stick with the sand colour with the original colour shining through a bit. 
the gunport (or hatches) is gonna be a pain but ill manage it.
i got sand,light tan i think it was called,and a weird grey-brown,i dont remember the name but its #29
i haven't got any decent wooden colour so im going to buy one if you could tell me what would fit wasa or atleast guess.will one of the ones i have fit as a  basecoat?
i know i ask a lot of you guys,and i cant say in words how greatful i am,my wasa wouldn't be half as good as it is now without your opinions and you have tought me things that will make my models in the future be twice as good as wasa.

CoreTech

you know any humbrol colours you might recommend?

what parts are you looking to paint? for the deck i would use desert yellow #93 or ochre # 83. but that's just me. If you wish to do an oil wash on the deck i would suggest using colors like raw sienna, burnt umber, and black. here's an example, bear in mind that I over did this was to make the ship look like a dirty privateer. the Wasa was brand new and would not have this amount of neglect or wear on the deck.

I wish I could help but I do not use enamels.  There was a line of lacquers put out by Railroad Colors years ago called Marine Colors that had wonderful colors. Now I use Model Expo's acrylics that are almost as good.  I am not very familiar with Humbrol.

Bill

the sanding worked very well,even though i cant get in between the guns.
but it still feels like it needs a paintjob,i would be very greatful if you guys could recommend some humbrol colours. 

you know any humbrol colours you might recommend?

The glue spots can be taken care of by lightly sanding them with fine grit sandpaper. Be careful to not sand too heavily or you will delete detail.

You can get the plastic to look like wood by a series of washes with a darker color, then highlighting with a lighter color by drybrushing.  I'm sure that others might offer more insight but a lot depends on the base color you used to paint the hull.

Bill

the lubbers holes are done and im fixing the lower main shrouds now,wich were more of a pain then joy.
the general build is going to hell,glue "spots" all over the model and the rigging is loose,forcing me to do it all over again.
something is telling me that this model will not be as good as i wanted it to be. 
i want to paint over the glue  spots but i dont have a nice brown and i've already installed almost every gunport (or hatches?).
another dissapointment is that i dont know how to paint it so it looks like wood...
maybe you guys can help me out on something of this? 

hmm,thanks for the tip! :D
ill try it.
and ill see if i can find that brush in a swedish hobby shop.
i have one prob.
a drill seems a bit big for drilling in an allready finished mast.
we have  a mini drill but even that feels to big (though i havent tried yet) 
drilling in the platform will be a tuff one 

Thanks! one thing that i did to add detail was to remove some of the paint from the brush with a paper towel. this is called dry-brushing. this way you can control the amount of paint that is being applied. it takes a little longer but it will be worth it. also a single fine sable brush will be the best brush you have ever purchased!

actually enemeink,im using your wasa as reference :)
now...i know the hull paint should come before even assembling any piece,but do you know some techniques on how to make it more wooden,look like wood or this is something that requires years of experience?
my wasa isn't done yet,the rigging is far from it.
and a last word enemeink,i aint got the skills you have in painting,and my brushes arent the best + i havent got all colours (i just got the critical ones,that airfix suggests) so painting the figures are almost out of question,i will paint some,on the bow for example,but not much more than that. 
your wasa is  INCREDIBLE,i hope to be able to build something like that in my life.

The current issue of Ships in Scale has a beautiful cover picture of a model of the Wasa. The cover is a closeup of the figures details.  It should be a big help to you.

Bill Morrison

a lot of the figures on the ship were painted instead of gold flaked. this gave a lot of color. the picture from the wasa muset helped me decide how to paint the figures on bow.

as far as i have read or know there is no evidence of the hull having been tarrowed (black below the waterline) to give your model some life i would suggest finding some wooden ship kit pitctures nd install the rigging based off of those pictures.

the instruction manul is very basic. i used an enlarged picture of the Corell Wasa kit to add the rigging. you can also buy rigging diagrams from wood kit manufacturers for a couple of dollars, depending on the brand. it would be a shame to paint

a beautiful model to have the rigging simplified. but remember this is yours and do what makes you happy. :)

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb428/Core-Tech/DSC00623.jpghttp://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb428/Core-Tech/DSC00625.jpghttp://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb428/Core-Tech/DSC00625.jpg

well now the rigging isnt a problem since all the fine gentlemen in this forum has helped me out.
But im thinking about one thing.
the colours of wasa,im gonna show you some photos of how it looks,but i want too know if you have any suggestions on how to spice it up a little.
the dutch (i like the dutch ships so im gonna take theirs as example),had very colourful ships even though it sometimes was a little bit different colours.
you think a waterlinepaint would be in place?
some planks painted in black?
lines similar to the hms victory's?
something,i think it looks pretty boring right now even though it is its historical appearence. 
but unlike some i just want it too look good in my eyes and not too be historicly accurate. 

oh i didnt see the green line that goes over the platform and bak down again,i thought the two were seperate,sorry,my misstake.
now i see.
That shouldnt be to hard then. 

No. Look back at Emeninks drawing with the green line. Start with the first deadeye on the starboard (right) side.Tie it to the deadeye then take the line up the mast and through the first hole. Then take the same line down through the second hole, and tie it to the first deadeye on the port (left) side. Then go back and do all the shrouds the same way working down the line of deadeyes. Up one side and down the other.

i know theres deadeyes your supposed to put on the platform,is this the ones you mean? 

CoreTech

now ill just have to try drill a hole in the platform...could be a bit tuff since the masts are already completed.
but how should i tie down the shoruds?
feels like theres no other place to do that than on the mast itself?

if you drill the 2 holes in the platforms you will not have to tie the shroud to the mast. you will tie each end of the string to a deadeye on each side of the ship.

now ill just have to try drill a hole in the platform...could be a bit tuff since the masts are already completed.
but how should i tie down the shoruds?
feels like theres no other place to do that than on the mast itself?

   CoreTech: Lubbers hole--- A hole in a platform, called a top on a mast, through which a sailor can climb through without climbing on the shrouds.

   Montani semper liberi !       Happy modeling to all and every one of you.

                    Crackers