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Zvezda Black Swan 1/72

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  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:58 AM

I got my lower hull together last night, along with the 2 cross-pieces...One thing I've noticed is that the pieces fit very snugly...

Then I started detail-painting the upper hull pieces...got the raised planks painted, and the steps on the side, railings, etc....I figure I have a lot of detail-painting to do before I proceed with much more assembly...and the cannons still have to be addressed!  Plus, I don't want to get the decks closed up until my LEDs arrive and I have installed them....so in the meantime, I'll just start clipping parts and adding details/washes to them...

So do you think I shouldn't glue ANY of the step 1 deck/ladder/bulkhead parts before I apply the side hulls? Just kind of hold them together with bands?

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  • Member since
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  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Thursday, May 31, 2012 9:41 AM

I put all of the step 1 deck/bulkhead pieces together in the lower hull before I started adding thin glue.  My problem came when I was adding the sides in step 10.  The front bulkhead didn't key into the sides quite right.  That's why I had so many clamps/rubberbands at the front.  If I had to do it again, I would use the sides at the same time as the bulkheads/decks just to get the alignment right, but not glue in the sides yet.  

BTW, clamps and rubber bands came off and everything looks good.  I'll probably re-paint the top most sides again because they came out too dark.

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Thursday, May 31, 2012 9:44 AM

Hey Paul-

How about a few pics of those cars I see in the case in the background??  Hard to tell, but one of them reminds me of the Tamiya Jordan 191 7up kit....built that one back in 1995, my first Open-Wheel Tamiya kit....

 

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Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

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  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:02 AM

Sharp eyes!!!

That is a Jordan.  Those are the F1 cars I built without using paint on the bodies.  They're a little dusty right now.      

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Friday, June 1, 2012 8:39 AM

Ha....lucky guess!  I've done a few of the Tamiya F1s, and a number of their GT cars, too....my fave was probably the Nissan R390GT1.....and the Mercedes CLK-GTR....

Sorry, back on topic!

So I got some more detailing done on the sides and began clipping the deck parts off the sprues...then while waiting for paint to dry, I decided to slather some wash on the lower hull, to bring out grain detail and add some *dirtyness*....well, about halfway through I noticed some paint was beginning to flake off (I use acrylic for the colors, but enamel for the wash)....I checked the bottle of the Testors thinner I used to make the wash, and sure enough, it contains both Xylene AND Propynyxynol or whatever....basically, it's a thinner with alcohol AND spirits!!  Sheesh!  So now I'm gonna have to do some touch-up (or maybe a whole re-paint!) and find some thinner to make a wash that won't soften up my acrylic undercoat....I don't know when Testors started making thinner that affects BOTH kinds of paint, but they obviously don't know much about how hobbyists use their products, or they might have given some warning!  :)

Anyways, just had to get that off my chest!  Other than that, things are going smoothly...gotta get my deck detailed and washed (with the right thinner!) and the cannons built, then I can start putting the deck/bulkhead/hull together!

 

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Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

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  • Member since
    February 2006
Posted by Grymm on Friday, June 1, 2012 8:51 PM

Hey David.

For your wash...have you ever tried an oil wash?  It's a real easy technique that will make your deck and hull detail pop out like crazy.  Since thinned oil paint won't mix with acrylics or enamels, it will run nicely into lines and corners.  The trick is to spray a GLOSS clearcoat onto your model using Future Floor Wax.  That's what I said.  You use Future to Gloss coat your model/deck/whatever you're detailing.  Let that dry.  Then, thin down a very dark brown (Van *** Brown or Burnt Sienna) oil paint with odorless Turpentine.  Now, apply the wash to your deck.  You'll see the oil slip beautifully into the lines on the deck, into the grain detail...it will look awesome.  Let it dry thoroughly and then spray a matte coat on the whole thing.

Try a test with it first...you'll love it and take your models to a whole new level...

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Friday, June 1, 2012 9:05 PM

Good advice, Grymm!

I actually stopped by the craft store on my way home from work today, and bought a tube of Grumbacher oil paint and some Gamsol oil thinner...I re-washed the hull, and it is a DEFINITE improvement over using standard paints!  No little floating particles of pigment...and it just flowed so smoothly, like you said!  And it had NO effect on the undercoat!  Yayyy!

I didn't try using Future on it first, but I kinda wanted the wash add a little *dirtyness* to the entire area anyway, but I'll keep it in mind (I bought some Future recently) for other areas!  Yes, I'm happy with the results of oil artist paint instead of testors enamel, for sure.

Trouble is, the wash I applied last night with the Testors thinner, that ate some patches of the hull basecoat off on the starboard side, doesn't look good.  I hoped I could touch it up with the base color and then just re-wash the whole thing, but it's still patchy....kinda frustrated, because I thought the thinner I was using wouldn't mess up the acrylic base....anywho, now I can't decide if I should just re-paint the entire hull and start over (having lost the crsipness of detail due to multiple paint coats), or just press on and plan to display the ship from port side only....which I don't like that idea, either...

I generally try to avoid mistakes so I don't have to backtrack....

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     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, June 2, 2012 2:53 PM

Decided to re-paint the hull, and then I'll wash it again, using the oil paint wash...I can't stand the idea of having a disfigured area, especially when my plan is to build this kit as masterfully as I can.  Only took a few minutes, and now I feel better!

I also spent a couple hours this morning detail-painting areas of the deck, bulkheads, railings, and furniture, getting ready for the first assembly steps....

Paul, I have one word for you:  Cannons.

Dang, that's a lot of cannon parts! 32 guns X 7 parts per gun = 224 

And I'll tell you, you picked a heck of a kit for your first ship...I expect this to take quite a bit longer than I thought it would....good times!

I'll try to get a few pics up this weekend.

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     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, June 2, 2012 5:37 PM

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/

Pics so far...

Here's a bulkhead entry & rail, no wash yet...

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0231:550:0]

 

Stern decoration...I definitely prefer the enamel Gold paint!

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0232:550:0]

 

Lower Hull...

 [View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0233:550:0]

 

224 cannon parts!  They will keep me busy for awhile, I think!

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0234:550:0]

 

My Yellow LED circuits came today...that'll be fun to install!

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0235:550:0]

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Sunday, June 3, 2012 8:18 PM

David,  sorry to hear of the problems with your first wash.  But like Grymm said, oil washes seem to be the way to go.  Just tried a little tonight and it works pretty good.  Your detail painting on those bulkheads is AWESOME!!!  BTW, what did you use to get the gold detail on the rear?

 Yes, the word is CANNONS..........lol.  Do them all, then pick the best ones for the twelve that will be visible on the top deck.

Yes, I know I picked a heck of a kit, but it seems to be easy(and complicated) enough to work as a first.

I got most of the basic structure done and I have a feeling I will be slowing down quite a bit with all of the detail work coming up. 

 

 

 

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Sunday, June 3, 2012 10:19 PM

Yeah Paul...the artist's oil paint makes a sweet wash...I'm glad I tried it! And it's no worries about the hull, I got it re-painted pretty easily, so no real harm cam from it...I just hope other people realize those Testors thinners are made from chemicals that soften both enamel AND acrylic...gotta be careful!

Your deck/hull is looking good, coming together well!  And I dig your color scheme!  Similar to mine, but with a few differences....most notably, my deck and bulkheads are a lighter wood color....

For the stern gold detail, I just used a #1 pointed brush, and some Testors Model Master (enamel) Gold...I just hold the brush at a really steep angle when I do surface decoration, and let the tension of the paint do most of the work. I like to do as much detail painting as I can before assembling parts (even washes, in many cases), that way I can keep the piece I'm working on FLAT on the table, and I can be sure to use the brush at my preferred angle for the surface....I also brace my wrist on the edge of the table (or against my other hand) to help keep it stable while I'm painting tiny or difficult areas, when I really need to keep still and smooth.  It can be tough later, when the deck furniture (and the cannons are sticking out of the hull!) is on, trying to reach some awkward area....

one thing to remember:  When placing the gun port covers, it might be hard to get them into the correct position and glue them on....for the Wasa, I had to fashion a jig to hold the ship on it's side so I could put the covers on so they would stay in place while the cement dried...it's tough to do things like that when you have cannon barrels sticking out!  Speaking of cannons...sheesh!  The barrel tips are a PAIN!  Got them all trimmed up today, and glued on to the barrels, touched-up and ready to assemble.  Next, I'm going to paint the wheels flat black, and then I'll put the carriages together, and then touch them up.  Then, they get a nice wash for that sweet grain detail!

I guess I know what you mean about it being easy AND complicated, but I've done a couple of ships now, and this is no easy build!  It's got as much detail and almost as many parts as some of the *major* ship kits I've researched....I think more and more people will build this kit, and it will be recognized as something special...it may not be a *real* ship, and that may turn off some of the purists, but that doesn't make a bit of difference to me...I think it's great!  I expect it to be my masterpiece....I'll likely move on to another "type" of hobby after this...at least for awhile!

I guess what I was getting at is this:  Yes, slow down and take your time...nothing's worse than rushing to finish some section or detail, and then regretting it later, when there's a flaw you know you could have prevented....and also, this being your first sail ship...when the time comes for rigging, it can get confusing, and you may have to re-tie some lines when you start to get into it...don't get discouraged...after a few major learning curves, you WILL TOTALLY IMPRESS YOURSELF with what you can do, after you learn a few ways to craft complicated rigs....

Anyway, I expect to get the guns done within a day or two (the weekend's over?!?), and then I can commence with some deck assembly (finally!)....I'll have to install my LEDs when I get to the stage you're at, so we'll see how that goes!

BTW, I'm super glad to have someone doing this build at the same time as me!  Can't wait to get some stuff *together*, so I can start catching up to you!!

There I go, rambling again!

 

 

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     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Tuesday, June 5, 2012 8:33 AM

Got the cannons assembled last night....I was having some trouble getting the sides to line up until I got a few of them done, then I realized the sidewalls (?) need to be at a bit of an angle (camber? they should angle in at the top, just slightly)) relative to the base that holds them together...then I could get the holes to line up with the pins.  It was tricky, balancing the barrel and the frame together with two fingers and trying to get everything lined up! I left the cannon barrels unglued to the carriages, so they can be aimed up or down...Still need to touch the carriages up with a little paint...then I have a bunch of parts ready to be washed.  and THEN I'll start deck assembly....using Paul's advice of using the siderails to line up the deck parts before cementing.

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     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Tuesday, June 5, 2012 4:29 PM

Sorry David, I guess I should have warned you about the camber in the sides of the cannon carriages.

I did a bunch of air brushing today.  First I had the sails sprayed in Tamiya Fine white primer.  Then I masked off the yards from the sails and sprayed the yards wood, along with all of the mast pieces.

 

 

 

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Tuesday, June 5, 2012 6:27 PM

Sweet!  Looking good, bro!  I never considered masking off for the yards...I was just going to hand-paint mine, but it looks like the line is pretty straight, so I guess I'll try it....speaking of which, have you ever used Parafilm for masking?  It's awesome stuff!

The cannons were no problem, once I got a couple done, I was like, "why aren't the other sides going together easier?"...then I tried one without any glue, and noticed the angle....after that, it went pretty smoothly.  Here in a bit, I'm going to finish the cannon touch-up, then I might start in on some washes...we'll see, though...the Lady will be home soon, and she's been more than patient with my time at the workbench lately, know what I mean?  lol

Here's a pic of a couple of my sails....Model Master Flat White, with a light overspray of Model Master Tan...I like the look of some weathering...haven't clipped them, or done the yards, obviously...

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0238:550:0]

 

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Tuesday, June 5, 2012 7:41 PM

I've never used Parafilm.  How much is it?

I used Tamiya tape first to get a nice clean edge, then followed with 3M blue and paper.

I was thinking of over-spraying my sails also.  My thought was to lay some lines in the folds of the sails.

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Tuesday, June 5, 2012 8:33 PM

Parafilm was developed and used mainly in laboratory environments, for quick and easy seals on beakers and flasks...kinda like a really sturdy, heavy duty, wax saran wrap that doesn't react with chemicals.  Testors used to package it and sell it for hobby masking, but they haven't offered it for awhile now.  It's still readily available from Lab Supply companies, but I get mine from eBay.  There's usually a few sellers offering it in different sizes, and it's pretty cheap...I think I got my last batch for a few bucks, and it will last me for years, and many, many masks.

It's like a thick wax paper type of material, but when stretched (it stretches to about 3 or 4 times its original size) it activates and gets really thin and flexible, but still has a kind of tackyness to it.  It will hold well to complex curves and weird shapes.  It doesn't have a super adhesive property, but it holds okay, and more importantly, it doesn't pull any paint off.  I usually cut a piece, stretch it, apply it to the surface, pushing it into the crevices with a tool, then I take an exacto to trim off the areas I want to paint, then voila!  For something like the yards of a sail, where the line is straight, regular masking tape is fine, but in a lot of places, Parafilm is way more adaptable....I figured since you do cars, too, that you might like to try it.  I used it on a multiple color (4 colors on the cowling) Benetton F1 Tamiya kit I did years ago, and I don't think I could have gotten all the lines right with just regular tape....

here's a link to a page that shows it...
http://www.micromark.com/PARAFILM-M,7551.html

I definitely think any modeler should have some on hand...I recommend getting some, and trying it out...you'll like the way it handles!  But, don't buy it retail, you can definitely get it for cheap on eBay...just thought I'd bring it up.

BTW, did you notice anything unusual about how the paint set up on your sails when you sprayed them?  I felt like mine must have had a static charge or something, because the paint didn't go down totally smooth, it almost left a textured surface of paint...it's kinda cool, actually....it makes them feel like they have a fabric-y texture now....

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Tuesday, June 5, 2012 9:14 PM

I'll have to get some parafilm to try out.

My sails have a grainy texture also. But I thought it was mostly from the primer....

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, June 6, 2012 7:56 PM

Sorry, Paul...working on deck assembly, but I can't get the parts to hold up without gluing them...looks like I'm gonna have to fight my way through the lining up, too....I'm going to try assembling the deck to the sides before I install the whole thing into the hull, though...hopefully that will help!

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Thursday, June 7, 2012 3:43 PM

At least I got my LEDs in place.....one in the rear gallery quarters, and one in the gun deck, so the light should shine out of the windows, stairwells, and hatchcovers.....still don't know where I'm going to run the leads to, or where I'm going to *stow* the switch and battery....

Hopefully, I'll get a chance to attach the lower sides of the hull this evening...I'll put some pics up once I get that done...

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, June 9, 2012 10:39 AM

I got my leads run for the lighting....now I can commence with assembly...here's a couple of pics...

This is the control box I made, it contains a 3V battery, a panel-mount 1/8" jack, and a pushbutton on/off switch....and there's a 1/8" patch cable that runs between the box and the ship...

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0244:550:0]

 

Next is a shot of the lower hull, where I installed another 1/8" jack, connected to the LED leads (putting this in was kind of a PITA, since I had already glued the lower stern plate to the middle deck...but I was able to get it mounted...

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0245:550:0]

 

And finally, this is one of the LEDs lit, in the rear gallery quarters...this light will shine through the windows on the back of the ship, and though the hatch on the Mizzen deck...there's one more light on the gun deck, which will hopefully be bright enough to illuminate most of the gun doors and hatches on the main deck..

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0246:550:0]

 

Next is the anchor cords, and lower side hull application...the tricky part!  Unfortunately, I had to follow these steps because of the lighting...I'm hoping I can get the sides on without too much hassle!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Saturday, June 9, 2012 6:49 PM

So, I got the lower sides installed this afternoon....it was a little bit of a juggling act, trying to keep everything in position while holding the hull on my lap and gingerly shimmying rubber bands over the sides (and over gun barrels!) to hold it while the cement dries!  Got 'er done, though.  And didn't break any cannons off!  That would have set me back a couple steps!

After 2WHL's warning about the difficulty lining up the sides with the deck, I was cautious with my steps...he suggested jigging the deck assembly together and then dry-fitting it with the sides, to make sure everything lined up before cementing.  Well, I had a lot of trouble getting the *house of cards* of deck parts to stay put so I could line it all up with the sides...plus, the nature of my LED add-on project prevented me from being able to retrofit them after the fact.  So, I found a solution that seemed to work:

2Whl's experience told me that the numerous parts of the deck assembly presented too many variables in alignment, meaning any 1 or 2 parts that were not assembled in exact *plumb* or *square* would affect the fit of everything down the road.  Instead of leaving parts uncemented as I tried to finagle things into place, I cemented the deck parts as instructed, allowed them to dry while sitting in the lower hull slots, THEN I used a pin vise and over-sized the locator holes in the lower hull (they were super-snug as molded, and would have been a huge pain to snap together with everything else going on!) , where the lower side rail attaches...there are someting like 6 or 8 of them, per side, per hull level.  WIth the locator holes widened, it gave me enough leeway to account for any misalignment with the semi-circular deck locator holes, while still allowing for proper placement.  Then I whipped a couple of binder clips and heavy rubber bands along the length, added a little more thin cement to flow into some crevices and set it aside to dry.... Voila!  Could be helpful for anyone who builds this kit in the future. 

 

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Sunday, June 10, 2012 10:09 AM

Those are good tips, David. Locator holes can be as much of a pain as a helpful thing. I never hesitate to trim off the pins as it always seems that some don't ever want to align and then you are in there prying apart a wet glue joint.

As far as rubber bands and gun barrels, here's a trick I'll try to describe as I don't have a picture handy.If you have a rubber band that fits snugly around the hull, then it stands to reason that two will have the same fit if made double but also put on end-to-end.Take two rubber bands and two pieces of bamboo skewer, dowel etc. each about an inch long. Thread one band through the other, stick the dowel through the loop and pull tight. Wrap the bands around the hull, between the guns, and connect the ends with the other dowel.I guess that would be a "toggle".

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Sunday, June 10, 2012 11:21 AM

Good idea!  Definitely would make it easier than trying to hold the ship while stretching a band over the length of it, and risking severe damage!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Monday, June 11, 2012 12:59 AM

Having electrified a static display or two, my preference is to use the bolts through the finials supporting the model.  This keeps the wiring very simple within the kit, and remains so from finial to bas, and base to case, if the latter is used..

Being able to have switches (or motion detection) out side of the case can be very cool.

A striking contrast to finding dead--or worse yet, corroded--batteries buried in hours and hours of labor.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 3:02 PM

Well....I broke a cannon loose below deck.  Guess I knew it going to happen eventually!  I just hope it doesn't happen too many more times!
It's a PITA since I can't remove the cannon, and I can't open the deck back up.....I was lucky enough to grip the barrel with tweezers, then I took a toothpick with some white glue and smeared it on the underside of the cannon through the gunport opening....and re-positioned it....it's okay now, and I lucked out being able to get ahold of it, but if I lose one into recesses of the deck, I'm going to be hosed....

Moral:  Take GREAT care to secure the guns on the lower deck, or risk the likelihood of headache and disappointment later...

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     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
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Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 7:47 PM

Loose cannons are so common a problem that I really glue them in securely. I usually put a square of tape on each cannon location before painting the deck, rub the carriage on a sanding stick to make the wheels flat, and scrape the paint out of the trunnion grooves.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:02 PM

Yeah, I don't suppose this'll be the last one I break loose, either....wish I'd have been more thorough in my cementing...I'll just have to be extra careful!

Yesterday, I was applying a wash to the upper stern plate, and forgot that the gold inlay was done with enamel paint....well, it kinda softened up and washed out onto the surrounding area. I decided to re-paint the piece with the original acrylic color, then apply the wash BEFORE the gold trim detail, to avoid the problem...gotta remember that the gold needs to go on after the wash from here on out.

Other than that, everything's going smoothly...got the wheel deck furniture on, and the rudder, etc....next is the upper stern plate and associated gold trim (!) then the naked lady gold figurines (which by the way, have no pins or holes for locating....just flat areas on the side of the hull...it will be a test of steady hands and consistent placement!)...meanwhile, I'm working on the detail of the galleries.

Not looking forward to step 36...the gunports look like they're gonna be a challenge!

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
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Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Sunday, June 17, 2012 7:51 PM

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/Okay, got the rear galleries on, and tested out the lighting...looks pretty good, I think.

Here's a few pics of my current progress:

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0265:550:0]

 

Stern plate

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0266:550:0]

 

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0264:550:0]

 

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0262:550:0]

 

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0261:550:0]

 

Here's a few of the new lights

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0259:550:0]

 

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0256:550:0]

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/IMG_0257:550:0]

 

 

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Marysville, WA
Posted by David_K on Monday, June 18, 2012 7:21 PM

*Helpful Hint*

Part #  I 22

This little part is a support post that attaches to the hull above each gunport door.  They are molded with very little "pin" with which to secure the part in the appropriate hole.  My advice is to cut them from the sprue almost to where the big stubby part of the injection happens, and then use a sanding stick to file the end down to the right size to fit in the hole.  Otherwise, you won't be able to get a good connection.  Fortunately, there are 24 of these in the kit, and only 22 are required....I figured out that they needed special care before it was too late.

Alternatively, this part can be cut from the sprue at the "end" of the part, sanded smooth, and then inserted BACKWARDS into the hole....the diameter of the wrong end happens to fit in the locator hole nice and snug...but then you'll be left with a little lip around the end of the part...which might actually help keep the gunport rigging line in place later....

 

        _~
     _~ )_)_~
     )_))_))_)
     _!__!__!_         
     (_D_P_K_)
   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ~~~~~~~~~~~

Current Project:  Imai/ERTL Spanish Galleon #2

Recently Finished: Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Next Up:  ???

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: So Cal
Posted by 2whl on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 3:36 PM

David, your Swan is looking fantastic.  You went by me, I'm still painting the gold details.

I figured part I22 was going to be a problem.  I'm still daunted by the task of tying up all of those cannon doors!   What is one supposed to use for glue to keep the knots in place?  I've heard CA is NOT the stuff to use. 

 

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

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