Revell 1/90 Nina Completed

Haha!  Capstan!  Who would build a ship model with a capstan around the base of the ma-.......um.  Nevermind.  :)

Looking  good!

I've never built any of the models of Columbus' ships from any manufacturer but I'm inclined to put the Nina & Pinta on my list after visiting the reconstructed  ships several months back. Such tiny ships to cross such a big ocean so many years ago.

Mr. Tilley - in regards to the Revell Pantograph machine you mentioned in your post, I found a picture. I did a Goggle search (my son always tells me - goggle is your friend) for 'Revell Pantograph Machine' and an article for Popular Mechanics Dec. 1960 came up with an article on Revell entitled 'Modelmakers in a Tizzy' by Carson Kerr came up.

It's a great article, well worth reading.  The Pantograph Machine is shown on page 83 along with an original sculpting for a sailor - I didn't realize the original sculptures were so Big!

Anyway, thought you might like to check it out.

I'd leave a link but I'm not quite sure how to do that.

Adrian

Wow!  Many thanks to Tnonk!  That whole article is fascinating.  

It's actually pretty simple to put links in posts.  This is how it works (on my computer at least) :

1.  Call up the page for which you want the link.

2.  Put your cursor in the web address box at the top of the screen.  Left click.  The web address will be highlghted.

3.  Right click anywhere in the highlighted area.  A drop box will appear.  Left click on "Copy" in the drop box.

4.  Go back to the FSM Forum page.  Put your cursor wherever you want the link to be.  

5.  Right click.  The drop box will appear again.

6.  Left click on "Paste" in the drop box.  The link will magically appear where the cursor is.

The whole process takes about ten seconds.

Here's the link to the Popular Mechanics article:  http://books.google.com/books?id=0tsDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA81&lpg=PA81&dq=Revell+pantograph+machine&source=bl&ots=ilccizWNk5&sig=mWVSgDo2q1YALcI40L9_SjKg3h0&hl=en#v=onepage&q=Revell%20pantograph%20machine&f=false .

I was surprised to see how small the machine is.  I figured it would be the size of a small room.

I'm not surprised at how big the original sculpture was.  If you look carefully at those tiny figures you can see upper and lower eyelids, shoe buckles, etc., etc.  (The figure in the picture, incidentally, is one of the nineteenth-century officers who were originally issued with the 1/96 Cutty Sark.)

Years ago I read a book about Airfix, which said that all the masters for the company's kits (including crew figures) were carved from basswood - at model size.  Maybe that's even more amazing.  Airfix apparently didn't have a pantograph - at least at that time.  I wonder how many model companies did.

I especially like this paragraph, from later in the article:  "Nowadays, Junior gets to play with model kits because Dad has his own.  They provide 'a legitimate source of pride, satisfaction and serenity,' explains Dr. William Menninger, the mental health authority, commenting on the fact that modeling is becoming a prescription for relaxation."  Dr. Menninger presumably never saw a White Ensign photoetched detail set.

Fascinating stuff!  That whole PM issue is worth reading.  For a real nostalgia trip, check out some of those old ads.  Thanks again to Tnonk!

Interesting article.

Did anyone notice the pictures further down in that magazine of the Windjammers Kaiwo Maru, Christian Rodich, and the USCG Eagle? There are a few more pictures of saling ships as well.

1943Mike

Prof. Tilley,

Pantograph machines come in all sizes, but the machine in that article looks like an old (probably not back then!) Dekel Pantograph. They were the best and most common back in the day.  That machine was about the size of a washing machine. Nice to work on, I had the opportunity several years ago. And yes, starting with a large master sculpt was the best way to get a highly detailed final piece. The trick was to have super fine cutters to replicate the detail. I've seen cutters as small as .015" diameter, but they might have used finer. In the case of those little figures in the ship kits, my guess is that they cut a carbon electrode with the pantograph and used an EDM (Electrode Displacement Machining) to burn the shape into the steel molds.

Conversely, Aurora almost always sculpted their figures the same size as the finished piece and cast the molds in Beryllium Copper. If you look at the detail on their little figures the process becomes truly amazing.

BTW it's been a while since I chimed in on this forum, glad to see you still helping folks out with your impressive knowledge and gentile wit. I still have the lovely print of the USCGC Eagle hanging in my work room awaiting the day I build my old Revell kit,

Warm regards,

Tory

Just in case anyone was wondering, I have not fallen off the face of the earth.....yet.  Been a bit busy with the Turkey Day festivities and family, etc....  Hope everyone is starting to shake off the self induced sloth and gluttony.

I actually got a little painting done so I thought I post them and get everyone's input.

Thanks to Mark, Rob, Adrian, Woj, Dave, Goshawk, Prof John, and GM for the input and support.  I always learn something from you.

I think I am going to follow GM's suggestion on using scribed basswood on the deck of the Pinta.  You can see how bad I messed up the detail on it.  If all goes well, I might do the Nina but I'm sure yet.

Thanks again everyone and happy holidays,

Steve

First the Nina

It's a bear trying to post off an iPad.  Anyway, I tried to add some depth to the decks of the Nina, not bad but still not there yet.

On the Pinta, you'll see that the missing detail is just too much even if I try finishing the faux wood finsh I had started.  Basswood, here we come.  Any tips on how to cut the basswood around the hatches, et al, would be greatly appreciated!

I also darkened up the hull color on the Pinta to try and get more of the grain to come out.

Totally replace the deck piece with the basswood. Carve off the deck details from the original plastic and glue them on to the wood.

Thanks George.  I think I will give it a go this weekend.  Has anyone used the "Age It Easy" from Micro Mark on basswood?  Or would it be better to use tung oil first then a gray stain after?

Thanks,

Steve

She is looking very nice with your weathering technique Steve. I enjoy looking at your work.....Cheers Mark

Thanks Mark, it is coming along........

Since I decided to cover these decks with basswood, I thought I would experiment with greying them down. I would like the group's opinion on the graying down process I tried on the Pinta deck.  The quarterdeck on the left is grayed down the main and fore decks on the right are the base color for comparison. I still think it needs some more work, but what do ya'll think?

Steve

Hmmm....It's none of my business, of course, but I think that decision to use basswood for the decks is worth thinking about.

One of the most impressive aspects of these models is Docidle's use of oil paint on plastic.  The contrast between the plastic "planks" on the hull and the real wood ones on the decks would, I think, be pretty conspicuous.  There's just no way they're going to look alike, in color or texture.

I've never done this, but I'd be tempted to try Evergreen scribed sheet styrene.  It's high-quality stuff; you should be able to get it with the right "plank width," and it's flexible enough to be shaped to form the necessary deck camber.  You could use the kit parts as templates, and maybe use sandpaper or some sort of scraper to imitate the wood-grain texture of the kit parts.  Then spray on a primer coat that closely matches the color of the molded plastic.  Then use your terrific oil paint technique.  The result should (I think) fit in beautifully with the rest of the model.

All this, I should emphasize, is purely hypothetical; I've never tried it.  But I think it's worth experimentation.

jtilley

Hmmm....It's none of my business, of course, but I think that decision to use basswood for the decks is worth thinking about.

One of the most impressive aspects of these models is Docidle's use of oil paint on plastic.  The contrast between the plastic "planks" on the hull and the real wood ones on the decks would, I think, be pretty conspicuous.  There's just no way they're going to look alike, in color or texture.

I've never done this, but I'd be tempted to try Evergreen scribed sheet styrene.  It's high-quality stuff; you should be able to get it with the right "plank width," and it's flexible enough to be shaped to form the necessary deck camber.  You could use the kit parts as templates, and maybe use sandpaper or some sort of scraper to imitate the wood-grain texture of the kit parts.  Then spray on a primer coat that closely matches the color of the molded plastic.  Then use your terrific oil paint technique.  The result should (I think) fit in beautifully with the rest of the model.

All this, I should emphasize, is purely hypothetical; I've never tried it.  But I think it's worth experimentation.

Evergreen makes an almost bewildering selection of scribed siding. It gets subdivided into railroad, scenery etc. so it takes a little looking to find what you want. It also comes in pretyy short lengths, which of course is not a problem here.

It may be best to cut a new sheet for the deck and scribe the wood in yourself.  I work with plastic sheets often and the pattern may not match your kit's parts.  I.e. the panel lines may be too heavy or too light.  Take the part with you to compare the sheet to.

Also consider matching the grain on the kit parts as best you can.  A little practice goes a long way.  Before long, you'll be scribing like a pro.

Thanks for the suggestions Professor T and Tom.  It makes sense and seeing what an amazing job Force9 did with his Constitution I might try laying the deck with individual strips or at least try, if not, then I can always go back to sheet styrene.

Thanks again,

Steve

Alright, I have sawn off the hatches, etc... I am going to see if I can get styrene strips that match the width of the planking on the deck and redo the deck in the spirit of Force9's Constitution. Here are the pictures of the decks at this time.  I actually got to use my flexible razor saw and it worked great!

Steve

Here is the start of the planking.  Hopefully it will come out, if not then I'll just rip it up and start again!

Steve

Dry fitting the stern of the Nina.

Constructing the base for the Nina.

Looks good, Steve!  I love the ambition of planking your deck with styrene...and I'm sure it'll be awesome when it's done!  I wonder if I should make a base for the SM....

I have 11 days off for the holiday, so I expect I'll be able to find time for modeling soon!

BTW, my boss gave me a $150 gift card for Model-Expo.com as a gift...how sweet is that?!?

I'm self employed.  The gift card sure sounds like a good idea.  

Dang Dave, I am jealous!  What a sweet bonus your boss gave you.  I sure wouldn't mind one of those myself.

Tom,

I know what you mean about working for yourself come Christmas time, I have never received a bonus from my clients in all these years.  And I never received a bonus like that in all the years working at the university either!

Steve

Pinta build:

i am trying to remember the old phrase...... Research twice, cuss once or some such thing!  I cannot believe I had forgotten how to lay decking after all the years I spent on sailing vessels!  So, I ripped up all the decking I had laid and will now do it correctly.  It is amazing how looking at a photo sometimes shows defects that I missed otherwise.

well here's a shot back at square one.

Steve

Nina build:

Glued on the bulwarks and started dry fitting the guns and main mast with the yard.  I also put together a rope ladder for the main mast.  I'll secure it to a ring bolt on the deck and the "crow's nest" if that is the correct terminology.

Enjoy!

Steve