Zvezda 1/72 English Medieval Ship Thomas - Fin 28 April 2014

Dave,

Thanks!  I agree, Zvezda makes good looking blocks and I will use those on this build like I did on the Hanse Kogge.  But I just could not bring myself to use the ready made deadeyes or the kit provided rigging line.  I also used the decals for the shields and they did not come out too bad especially after I weathered them.  I think it shows on one of the pictures of the fore and aft castles and if not, I'll post one.

Steve

Here is a really bad photo of the shields.  They had a gloss coat on and are not weathered or placed on the ship (DUH).  I'll need to try and take another picture but in the meantime try not to be TOO blinded by the reflection.

Steve

Working on the anchor lines.

Steve

Secured the anchors and glued the knee on.

Steve

I found that with the anchors secured as per instructions, the forecastle would not sit right.  There was a gap between the deck and the aft vertical supports.  So I painted some stock styrene and after priming, painting and cutting I glued them in.  Not perfect but better than the gap.  Here is the sequence if interested.

Steve

Most elegant progress--congratulations!

One thing that caught my eye was the elegant way the anchor line went round the capstan..  It keeps things neat and orderly.  So, I'd keep it that way even though turning the capstan would heave one line in while paying the other out.  Pushme-Pullyou!

Thanks Capn'  My navy training wants things squared away and even though I know it is a push me pull you rig, I think it works quite well.  That is, until we actually have to take in an anchor!

Steve

What a awesome build .Super great photos

Thanks IF, I appreciate the kudos.  Regarding the pictures, I am finally getting the hang of my digital camera so that I can actually see the progression following my other posts.

Steve

Steve,

Can you please post a quick list of the oils and colors you used.  I sent you a PM but you may not have had a chance to read it yet.  I've used mainly enamels and have no experience with oils, so a tutorial is needed.  

I'm cleaning out my stash and am focusing on just historic and time line ship in my collection.  I got the Thomas and would like to do mine as close to your as possible.

Thanks

Jake Groby

Lacombe, LA.

Jake,

I sent you a PM.

Steve

Here are some pictures of the rope ladder I constructed for the Thomas.  Octavius is there as usual for scale perspective.  I'll take some better pics later and post them since I still have not oiled the rungs and they look a bit flat.

Steve

Steve, not to be a pill but maybe the rungs are a bit over sized? Just a gut thing...

GM,

Now that you mention it, they are a bit.  Although they are close to the ladders on the fore and aft castle which look a bit over scale too.  Back to the drawing board…….

Thanks,

Steve

After trying different approaches I tore out the ladder and then tried to remember how to tie tiny clove hitches to make a "real" rope ladder.  The first knot took me about 20 minutes total and the second….. about 15.  When I go to the fourth line, I was humming along tying a clove hitch in about  a minute tops.

These shots are just a practice rope ladder to see if I could still do it and what would be the most efficient process.  It is a bit hard seeing the rungs but they're there.  I am now soaking the line to get the kinks out before I wax it.  Then we'll be in business to make a rope ladder.

Steve

I like it!  I remember a piece of advice I've heard here on the forum....and I'm paraphrasing:

"If in doubt about the scale, err on the small side."

Your first ladder didn't look too bad to me, but the smaller one definitely seems to fit into the scene better!

Well done, my friend!  Can't wait to see the finished product!

Thanks Dave and I agree, it is better to err on the side of smaller than larger.  After trying so hard not to rig the line I end up having to, I guess I should never have said that I wasn't going to tie this ladder..... Karma in a weird sort of way.

Steve

After a long period away from the work desk, I was able to actually start the rigging on this "ship that will never be finished".  After four attempts at rigging a rope ladder I decided to put that on the back burner for a bit.  I now know four ways not to rig the ladder!  So, beginning with the starboard shrouds I rigged wooden deadeyes instead of the plastic ones included in the kit.  I will use the blocks from the kit as they are actually rather nice.  Here is the sequence I took for the first two starboard shrouds.

Enjoy,

Steve

Yes, I did sneak in a port side shroud, since I did not take a photo of that step on the starboard side.

Good to see you back.  Our pictures will come in real handy when I get to that step.  I can't wait to see the final product, nice work.

looks great  from here

The Thanks guys.  I am adding these pictures today so that you can actually see what the heck I was doing.

Steve

The standing rigging is done at long last!  I'll start on the running rigging this weekend..... hopefully.  There are a few tweaks I need to make but all in all I am somewhat pleased.

Enjoy

Steve

This is plastic????!!!! Sure looks great, more like aged wood to me. Good job.

Thanks John, I appreciate the kudos and thank you checking out my build.

Steve

I have a great number of photos regarding the running rigging.  I will try and post them in sequential order so bear with me if I make a mistake.  I am ALMOST finished and all in all it came out pretty decent.

We’ll start with a single block. This is a kit block so it needed to be cleaned up, painted and then oiled. I just painted the stropping Black to match the standing rigging. 

Enjoy,

Steve

Then using the Magic Hands, Extra Hands device from Micro Mark (well worth the investment of less than $20 USD). Note that the line being used is lighter than the standing rigging. Standing rigging is tarred to protect the lines and so is either a Black or Dark Brown to simulate the tar.

The running rigging on the other hand isn’t tarred and therefore lighter, usually a Light Tan or even a Light Gray.

So the first photo shows the line running through the end of the strop.

Steve

I prefer using CA(SuperGlue), but white glue is just as effective but takes longer to dry. A little dab will do ya’! I either use a toothpick or a thin copper  wire to apply CA.

To secure the line, tie the smaller sewing thread around the two lines and pull tight. You can use a bit of CA now If you wish to secure the thread before wrapping it. Note in the last photo that I use Waxed Paper for my CA glue; CA doesn’t stick to Waxed Paper so it’s a handy and cheap glue holder.

Steve

I usually use about four to five turns before trying of the line.

And finally a dab of CA and then clip off the ends and you are set to do all the blocks now! I can’t express enough about how much using the Extra Hands tool is. It makes working with blocks SO much easier.

Steve