SSGN-WIP...paint question

Josiah,

Be careful when attaching the turtle back to the hull.  There is supposed to be a gap along the length of the turtle back. You should cement only at the extreme forward end and the extreme after end of the part. Check photos of the actual ships to see what I mean.  I have seen too many well built Ohio class models with the part fully cemented to the hull with no gap appearing.

Bill

Josiah,

There is one other area that requires real attention. The missile hatch covers have a tendency to sag if not done carefully. They should sit flush with the turtle back.

Bill

I found it easier to attach the hatches to the turtleback before attaching it to the hull. That way you can work on them from both sides. Note that is is just for the hatches you are closing.

Tracy,

I couldn't agree more! I am currently building the Ohio for my son-in-law's father who is from Ohio.  I also used to build this kit for sale to crewmen for each of the boats down at King's Bay, and I learned early on about these issues.

Thanks guys...I did glue those hatches on before I put the turtleback on...unfortunately I glued the turtleback on before I read your comment Bill and without look at pictures 

I tried to get it up off the hull which worked a bit on one side, not so much on the other...I'll post some pics in a bit.

Here she is

What did you glue the turtleback with?  If it was CA, a little debonder should take care of it with no damage to the parts.  Anything else may get brittle if you put it in the freezer for a few hours.  Then just a bit of sanding and you're back at it.  Or, you could just scribe heavily along the join and leave well enough alone.

Groot

I used just plane modeling cement. I am hesitant to make anything brittle as I my track record is not very good when handling things that are far-gee-lay (must be italian). I tried scribing, and in person you can see a small gap, I will go back over it some more and then leave it alone.

And now a question about painting....

In a past post (searched on my phone so I do not have a url) it was noted that new subs do not have the hull red but rather its a kind of a grey/black instead. Tracy, you posted links to some of your builds of USS Skipjack and USS Los Angeles. On the Skipjack you used model master's "aircraft interior black" between the hull red and flat black top. The Los Angeles was just flat black with the red.

Would it be correct to use the aircraft interior black for below the waterline on this model, and flat black for above?

I don't have a good answer for you as I haven't seen any SSGNs in drydock *FOLLOWING* conversion, just before. The "common wisdom" is that the Navy has ceased using anti-fouling red on the SSNs, but I haven't seen if that is also extended to the Ohio Class or even the LA class, I've only seen it on the Seawolf and Virgnia classes.

I used the Aircraft Interior Black as it's a very, very dark gray that looks more "in scale." Pure flat black is too black and doesn't look "right" - this is something called scale effect that I don't always ascribe to, but tend to more often with black.

The old Polly Scale Steam Power Black and Engine Black are good ones too.

I also use Aircraft Interior Black toned down just a little (eight parts black with two parts gray) with German Dark Grey. I then paint the non-skid with flat black for contrast. It gives me a scale effect that I like.

Bill

I have also seen one photo of the USS Michigan (SSGN 727) in dry dock with the red lower hull.  This was sent to me by a crewman currently serving onboard.  I have also seen a photo of the USS Georgia (SSGN 729) in dry dock without the red.  However, I have also personally seen a model of the Georgia (SSGN version) made by a former Navigator onboard that had the red. There are various paintings of these ships that are easily found online in both configurations.

That said, it might depend on the date as to which is correct.  Tracy is in a better position than I to inform you about that. It might simply be a case of the red being correct at the time of conversion from SSBN to SSGN and all black today.  I will check with my friends currently serving.

Bill

Thank you for the clarifications Tracy, GM, and Bill

Hello all, I completed my research paper on submarines a couple weeks ago, though I was not able to go real in depth on either WWII, Cold War, or post-cold war submarines, I have definitely gained a much greater appreciation for submarines (and the Navy as a whole). I finished my senior thesis last night so now that that is out of the way I can get back to work on this build. I have it primed, I need to sand the seam of the top and bottom half of the hulls a lot more and then I'll paint it. My presentation is next monday and all I have is a paper due this friday so I'll definitely be able to get her done. Thank you for all the help and advice that you all have provided, it is greatly appreciated!

Awesome, glad to hear!

Good luck with your presentation and with finishing your model.  I would love a copy of your paper if you don't mind!

Bill