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Based on my extensive and expensive research, the pic of 710 is the most accurate color (sort of a slate grey/blue). The other is just too blue. Also, the colors topside (horizontal areas) should be the same...
Of course, I could be wrong...
Revenant Based on my extensive and expensive research, the pic of 710 is the most accurate color (sort of a slate grey/blue). The other is just too blue. Also, the colors topside (horizontal areas) should be the same... Of course, I could be wrong...
Lots of variations out there though, but it seems that "scale effect" has not been applied to these colors--they seem to bright and rich:
Well, as a reference, please consider USS Texas which is fitted out to appear as she did in support of the Iwo Jia campaign.Please note, during the 1989-1991 refit, the colors were extensively researched and color atched before being applied at the Todd Shipyards in Galveston.Deck Blue:
This hull color will be close to that used i nthe Pacific:Which can look very "blue"
Steel decks are a similar color to the wood:
USN chose 20B as a deck clor as it was a similar hue as deep ocean water
Scale effect will be required, along with grains of salt.
How did I miss this thread? Beautiful work on the PE! I love these Dragon 1/350 DD kits, and wish that they would manufacture a square bridge Fletcher and Cold War DDs such as the Adams class and Forrest Sherman class ships.
Bill
warshipguy How did I miss this thread? Beautiful work on the PE! I love these Dragon 1/350 DD kits, and wish that they would manufacture a square bridge Fletcher and Cold War DDs such as the Adams class and Forrest Sherman class ships. Bill
Ditto. That is some great P/E work you are doing my Friend.....Cheers Mark
If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL
Progressing slowly on this one.
A bit of a PITA figuring out when to paint what, as some areas need to be painted before other parts are added.
Getting there though. Still have the light grey to do (obviously)...I'm really looking forward to all the masking...
fermis Progressing slowly on this one. A bit of a PITA figuring out when to paint what, as some areas need to be painted before other parts are added. Getting there though. Still have the light grey to do (obviously)...I'm really looking forward to all the masking...
Finally got the gumption to do all the masking and paint the light grey. 3 hours of masking...for 5 minutes of painting [bored]
Nothing but fiddly bits now....
Looks good...the base looks smaller with the ship on it...
I sympathize with you regarding the time ratio of masking to painting - it's just what one has to deal with when building ships like the ones we're building. In your case you're doing an exceptionally neat job.
Mike
Hector Berlioz
1943Mike I sympathize with you regarding the time ratio of masking to painting - it's just what one has to deal with when building ships like the ones we're building. In your case you're doing an exceptionally neat job.
Prep is a B!+@#...when I was doing paver patios...it could take 3 guys 3 days to prep...I could lay all the pavers (where the money is made) in less than half a day. Even now, seal coating driveways...2-3 hours of prep, for 1/2 an hour of money makin! It's fun to complain about...it's all part of the job.
Update please...
Decals done.
All the deck walkway decals are black..on the paper...put em on the model and they're purple (???)...the world wonders.
Wow...she's coming together nicely...
...maybe you put em on upside down???
Revenant Wow...she's coming together nicely... ...maybe you put em on upside down???
I am still curious about it...if that's right or not.
Also...who's got a good go-to source for some anchor chain? The kit comes with some PE "chain"...but it's flat and looks stupid. I'd like to replace it with some real chain. I'd like to get a decent length of it...I have 2 more Destroyers stashed that are gonna need it too.
try your local craft store . or a jewelry shop
I've used this stuff, 3-d printed. Called "stud link anchor chain. Has the center bar in each link just like the real stuff.
3 sizes, 7 1/2 links / inch, 9 1/2 links / inch, 11 1/2 links / inch.
Came from Floating Drydock.
Completed - 1/525 Round Two Lindberg repop of T2A tanker done as USS MATTAPONI, USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa Dec 1942, USS Yorktown 1/700 Trumpeter 1943. In The Yards - USS ESSEX 1/700 Hasegawa 1945, USS ESSEX 1/700 Dragon 1944, USS ESSEX 1/700 Trumpeter 1945, USS ESSEX 1/540 Revell (vintage) 1962, USS ESSEX 1/350 Trumpeter 1942, USS ESSEX LHD-2 as commissioned, converted from USS Wasp kit Gallery Models. Plus 35 other plastic and wood ship kits.
fermis I guess, what I need to know is, is there much difference between the darker sides and the deck? In those builds above, I'm not picking up any difference between the sides and deck.
Note that last photo. There's a stark contrast between deck and horizontal. The color for the horizontals ought to be as deep and dark as the ocean.Photos of other builds can be misleading as you never know what camera correction was applied, or if a given monitor is rendering that photo correctly; and that also presumes that the model itself has the contrast--it might, it might not.
ejhammer I've used this stuff, 3-d printed. Called "stud link anchor chain. Has the center bar in each link just like the real stuff. 3 sizes, 7 1/2 links / inch, 9 1/2 links / inch, 11 1/2 links / inch. Came from Floating Drydock.
By the time this is posted it will have fallen waaaaaay back in the thread and be useless because I'm being moderated, but I think the colors and walkways look fine. If they were solid black they would look too harsh...
I picked up the smallest chain I could find (at Michaels)...way too big, compared to the PE stuff.
I really like this...but even that smallest size looks to be the same size, or close enough...to the stuff I got.
Could it be that the pe is just too small???
Here's a comparison shot...
fermis Here's a comparison shot...
Don't know. I just liked the realistic "center Bar" links. Aboard ESSEX, the anchor chains had links that were about 24" long or so with those bars. I used the smallest size for my 1/350 carrier models. Just liked the way it came out, although the scale might be off a bit.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Very nice...
Spent all of yesterdays bench time adding tiny bits to this ship. I feel like I added 100 pieces, and nothing changed. Very tedious work, especially trying to clean up the snip points. Words, I can not repeat, were spoken.
Question now...I painted all the guns black....cuz...guns are black! The bigger guns though...should they be black???
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