hobby boss USS arizona 1/350 BB-39 [1941]

GMorrison

Its wider than you think, maybe 4 feet or so

Somewhere in my pile of refernce material is a guidline to boot topping widths, which was by class/size of ships.

And, IIRC, the widths are a guideline, as it mentions that ships at sea benefit from wider boot topping than ships largely in harbors in peacetime.

I want to say that battleships were recommended a 6' boot topping, as that allowed a lot of steaming (and using up expendibles) whitout showing any read bottom paint.

During wartime the boot topping width was doubled, as ships were more likely to expend ammo as well as ordinary expendibles; also to cruise to much more extended range.

The wider boot topping was also considered to help confuse exactly where i nthe water the ship was, which would confuse the range estimate.

The captain of the ship was the final arbiter of just where the boot topping started and stopped viz-a-viz load waterline.  Some captains would go 1/3 and 2/3; some 1/2 & 1/2.  Often, this was set out during dry docking when a ship would be at its lightest.  Weld lines would be scribed on the hull to guide painting layout (the hull numbers & name were similarly scribed).

6' at 1/350 is 0.205" (5.22mm)

thank's gene mate , will be using MM & tamiya paint's .

Steve, you are one of the best & your photo etch is really super. That is a beautiful PE set & you work on it looks perfect. What kind of paint did you decide on. 

                                                                  Gene

rcboater

 

 

GMorrison

Yes, that's a flaw on several Trumpeter kits. 

 

 

 

GM,

Is that really a “flaw”?  I thought it was a “feature”!  

The problem with most waterline hulls is that you that you can‘t show the model on anything other than a perfectly flat calm sea.  Having some extra hull material would allow you to show the subject underway, with some wave and wake action sculpted into the display base‘s “sea”.

 

-Bill

 

 

 

Or worse, I’m building a Dragon CL and the waterline version is ok, but the separate lower hull half is a good 15’ too shallow. It’s going to require a insert.

thanks gmorrison for the help in the math's , alway's was only average at that . I wasn't sure how I would go at the PE . seem to be bumbling through , will try the annealing process , and see what happen's after that regarding painting and gluing . as I will have to heat up the PE first and I don't think acrylic like's naked flames , or laqueur , enamel for that fact . but I appreciate the input .

GMorrison

Yes, that's a flaw on several Trumpeter kits. 

GM,

Is that really a “flaw”?  I thought it was a “feature”!  

The problem with most waterline hulls is that you that you can‘t show the model on anything other than a perfectly flat calm sea.  Having some extra hull material would allow you to show the subject underway, with some wave and wake action sculpted into the display base‘s “sea”.

-Bill

10 feet at 1/350 scale is 1/35 of a foot. Which is about 1/3 of an inch.

Round down a little to match the range Tracy noted- call it 5/16”.

Now there’s a black stripe at the waterline, the boot topping.  

Its wider than you think, maybe 4 feet or so. I’d be interested to hear the opinions on that. It’s a bit of a painting clenched as well, since it’s top and bottom edges are on level lines and it’s true dimension varies as the hull slope changes.

This does look very nice. 

May I make a couple of suggestions?

Assuming these are not test fit pictures. One real challenge of building complex warships at smaller scales is painting them. 

PE should be primed up front, either while still flat or at least before installing. ESP. With acrylic paint final colors.

This particular ship had vertical and horizontal surfaces painted two colors that are very close, but not identical, and in many cases the deck was a different linoleum color, or natural wood.

Later in the war the verticals of USN ships changed a lot, while the decks stayed mostly blue.

It is very hard to paint all of that once railings are installed. 

However much you can pre-paint, the better.

Hey Steve, that funnel looks awesome. Nice work bending and fitting all that. It looks really good! Yeah, look into annealing because it might make your job easier. It helps to keep the metal from kinking, allowing a person to achieve smoother curves.

thank's michael , I am going to have to practise my bending of the PE . it isn't great . I have heard about annealing the brass , might try it . after I watch some you tube .

Steve,

Such fine detail at such a small scale, looking good there mate, can't wait to see her finished.

Michael D.

the funnel

got some guns done ,

thanks tracy , as my maths isn't that great how much higher should I put the water line ?

Yes, that's a flaw on several Trumpeter kits. 

On BB-39, the rifles were set in threes at the same elevation.

One point to consider. The upper/lower hull isn't broken along Arizona's actual waterline, so if you don't paint or repaint following the break between pieces she'll be 8-10 scale feet too high out of the water.

thank's gentlemen

gmorrison - will have another look at them . I was Pretty tired whenI finished .

nino - I haven't set them in yet , was waiting till I fixed them on the deck before gluing them in position .

steve5

just starting to see what I'm getting myself into . 38 pieces of PE , plus 12 barrel's .

 

     The metal barrels look super.   I do note that in your picture they are set to different elevations as if they could be elevated/depressed separately from adjacent barrels in the same turret.  I think that may be wrong.  I was of the opinion that all 3 barrels in a BB-38 and BB-39 turret were set to same elevation on all 3 barrels.   Guess we need a Pennsylvania class expert to answer this one.  

   Something to consider before you use glue!

   Nino

It's probably the lens fisheye, but the barrels don't look parallel to me. Try making a pattern that had three truly parallel lines to adjust if you need to.

But it looks so good! Looks cool, Steve. Watching and learning.

just starting to see what I'm getting myself into . 38 pieces of PE , plus 12 barrel's .

steve5

I doubt anyone will ever look though . 

 

thanks steve , no they are only partially bored out . but I doubt anyone will ever look though . 

Hey Steve, those gun barrels look great. I think it was worth the wait! I can imagine they are more pristine than the plastic supplied parts. A dumb question for you. Are they cored out? Or partially? It is hard to tell from the pics.

Your project is moving along nicely. 

thanks steve , nino , really enjoy your comments .

finally recieved my barrels from masters , only took 5 weeks , nice job aussie post . I really think they make a difference . 

Steve,

  Like Steve said, "I am enjoying your build, ...Keep up the good work!" !

I made a tiny jar of that Spruegoo.  Much better than filling gaps with Superglue, at least for me.  It sands the same as the kit plastic or at least more evenly that dried CA.

     Jim.

P.S.  Nice fill job on the bow since I can't even see where you did it.

steve5

they mentioned the little dip in the bow , wish I took a pic of it , so I tried some spruegoo , shown to me by baxter , worked like a charm , all better after sanding . thank's steve .

Hey Steve! Thanks for letting us know that spruegoo worked well for you. I think you will find that the more you use it--the more you like it. 

I am enjoying your build, Steve. Keep up the good work!!

was looking at a few builds on you-tube , and they mentioned the little dip in the bow , wish I took a pic of it , so I tried some spruegoo , shown to me by baxter , worked like a charm , all better after sanding . thank's steve .

I have to agree with everyone. The PE, barrels, and deck sets will really bring this kit to another level. The verticles along with the stairs versus the plastic lumps are going to go a long way by themselves. The wood deck to cover the seams will be a big plus too. I think you will find that the PE will help the superstructure a lot as well. The catapult will be light years better than the kit part, etc., etc.

How hard was it for you to remove the molded in deck details?

What did you find out concerning the lower hull by the props, is it miss-shapened?

Ben

I agree with stik....nice start on her.  I promise, you will find a lot of new language skills with all the PE you have.