Building Revell 1:72 Pirate ship

Don Stauffer

Looking great.  Good pictures showing nice detail.  Only thing is they are a bit underexposed.  Can you get more light on the area, or else brighten them a bit in a photo editor?

 

Yes, I noticed that the photos are a bit dark, I shot them outside under a canopy, I may have to add some other light source. I will try to redo them.

I am still searching for the proper spot to take the photos within my house, one that would not required an excessive amount of lights and/or space. The time in which I had access to those facilities are long gone. I am researching some ideas to that effect.

Looking great.  Good pictures showing nice detail.  Only thing is they are a bit underexposed.  Can you get more light on the area, or else brighten them a bit in a photo editor?

That is a cool thing! Your rigging is really well done. Look forward to another model from you.

Bill

Well, I went over the ship very carefull and clear up most of the defects that I found.

Here is a photo of before I started cleaning up:

This is after the cleanup on the same angle:

Next is a closeup of the dingy area:

Next a phot of the inside rear and 2 photos of the rigging

Finnally a photo of the entire ship:

Sorry if I put too many photos, after looking at the photos carefully, I can see there is some room for improvements, I may do those in a future day.

GMorrison

Another goofy detail are those outriggers that the gun port lid lifting ropes descend from. I guess it gave mechanical advantage to the set to make the port lids pop open quickly.

HF another nice similar model is either the Airfix or Revell Golden Hind. The latter is one of my alltime favorites.

 

Tell me about those outriggers! They were a pain to get them glued, and had to reglue at least 6 of them becuase they keep falling off at the least provocation.

Another goofy detail are those outriggers that the gun port lid lifting ropes descend from. I guess it gave mechanical advantage to the set to make the port lids pop open quickly.

HF another nice similar model is either the Airfix or Revell Golden Hind. The latter is one of my alltime favorites.

Having-fun

 

Bill, I never took your comment as offensive, I simply wanted to know what your comment means. I am willing to take any constructive criticism of the work I am doing, because I believe that is the best way to learn, from some one that has been there and therefore is an expect.

Thanks

PD: if not an expect, at least someone who knows a lot more than I do. As an example, I am using your idea of running any typing through my Word speller.

 

GW,

Yes, the capstan was around the main mast (coaxial) in the movie.  I also thought that was a silly arrangement, but saves deck space.  I have the plans for the Black Pearl from a family member who works for Disney.  Also Davy Jones' ship The Flying Dutchman.  Kit bashed them years ago before any of the models came out so I could put them on top of my Pirates pinball machine.

Bob

Bill, I never took your comment as offensive, I simply wanted to know what your comment means. I am willing to take any constructive criticism of the work I am doing, because I believe that is the best way to learn, from some one that has been there and therefore is an expect.

Thanks

PD: if not an expect, at least someone who knows a lot more than I do. As an example, I am using your idea of running any typing through my Word speller.

This is all meant to be lighthearted criticism of the kit, not the modeler, nothing serious. The kit is a version of a kit brought out by a Russian modeling company named Zvezda named the Black Swan, which in turn was a renaming of their original Black Pearl kit.

The movie has happily left my brain, so I don't know for sure if the ship/ barge used had a co-axial capstan.

A capstan is a winch with a vertical axle.

It's used to do heavy lifting chores that require multiple man power. In the case above, it's being used to raise an anchor. It also gets used to operate a crane boom, lift heavy sails and similar jobs.

It rotates on a vertical axle that extends down several decks or even all the way down to the keel, so as not to get ripped from the deck.

The mainmast you are familiar with. It definitely extends all the way down to the keel.

So the two can't be in the same place at the same time.

Apologies for going on about it.

It's all for fun and your model looks great. Another similar but nicer model is the Revell Wasa.

Bill

GMorrison

That's a nice build, sir. I look forward to the next one.

One ridiculous part of the kit, no reflection on the builder; is how the main mast is coaxial with the capstan... design by Disney I suppose.

For spell checking, one way to do it is to type your post in Word, spell check, and then paste into the forum. I do that with longer posts and WIPs like yours here because this forum has an annoying way of sending partial posts to the ether halfway through.

 

Not been a nautical expert and not knowing the names of the different components of a ship, I do not understand your comments, could you kindly explain it, thanks.

Est.1961

Spell check or no spell check I like your handy work. 

 

Thank you, sir.

Rick Sr

If you have a computer copy your clearest photos to it, enlarge and post.

 

I did moved to my computer and enlarged it, that is when I noticed that my brush work needed more work. I did not have no.1 size brushes so I ordered some and I also ordered the putty to attempt to fill in the cracks, once all that work is done I will take more photos and post them in this forum.

Thanks

If you have a computer copy your clearest photos to it, enlarge and post.

Spell check or no spell check I like your handy work. 

Having-fun

 

Here is a closeup of the rear of the ship. I believed that the boat was completed, however, after seeing this photo I realized that I still have a lot of work to do.

 

Took the photo using a 50mm lens with an aperture of 22 and with a small micro tube.

 

The ship has some bad cracks on it as it can be seem in the photo, I just ordered the Tamiya putty recommended by you guys and also a set of very fine brushes so I can work on the details.

 

 

Looks very nice!  Good brush work.

GMorrison

I like it. You could also just cover those gaps up with additional detail. It is after all a complete fantasy.

 

You have a point there, maybe I could add some fancy columns or something.

Thanks

I like it. You could also just cover those gaps up with additional detail. It is after all a complete fantasy.

Here is a closeup of the rear of the ship. I believed that the boat was completed, however, after seeing this photo I realized that I still have a lot of work to do.

Took the photo using a 50mm lens with an aperture of 22 and with a small micro tube.

The ship has some bad cracks on it as it can be seem in the photo, I just ordered the Tamiya putty recommended by you guys and also a set of very fine brushes so I can work on the details.

Having-fun

 

 

Don Stauffer

 

 

Having-fun

 

 

 

 

PD It looks like I will have to break out my micro lenses to get photos that are sharp, my present lens only focus to 1 feet, so if I get any closer it looses focus.

 

 

 

 

Do you have any control of exposure?  Is there any mode for closeups, like an icon with a flower?  Selecting a high aperture ratio/small aperture really helps for closeups.  Otherwise, yes a closeup or macro lens will do the job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The camera I am using is a semi-profesional Nikon D7000, it has a 18 - 200mm zoom lens attached to it, and that may be the problem, this lens is very powefull, but it only focus to about 12 inches. I also have a 50mm fix lens, I think I will try it to see if I get better results, if not I will try to put some extenders on this lens to increase it magnification.

Yes, the camera has all kinds of special adjustments, I also need to find the correct setting, but, as you know, I will have to keep trying until the correct formula is found.

 

Go to aperture priorty exposure.  Select f/16.  You'll need a tripod, but most people find they need a tripod anyway for closeup model photography.  I bought mine for about twenty bucks a few years ago at Walmart.  Also, exposure will probably be about 2-3 seconds indoors, so using the timer delay eliminates shake from pushing the button.  I take all my model pictures with an old Nikon D50x, have a later model Nikon for the rest of my photography.

Don Stauffer

 

 

Having-fun

 

 

 

 

PD It looks like I will have to break out my micro lenses to get photos that are sharp, my present lens only focus to 1 feet, so if I get any closer it looses focus.

 

 

 

 

Do you have any control of exposure?  Is there any mode for closeups, like an icon with a flower?  Selecting a high aperture ratio/small aperture really helps for closeups.  Otherwise, yes a closeup or macro lens will do the job.

 

 

The camera I am using is a semi-profesional Nikon D7000, it has a 18 - 200mm zoom lens attached to it, and that may be the problem, this lens is very powefull, but it only focus to about 12 inches. I also have a 50mm fix lens, I think I will try it to see if I get better results, if not I will try to put some extenders on this lens to increase it magnification.

Yes, the camera has all kinds of special adjustments, I also need to find the correct setting, but, as you know, I will have to keep trying until the correct formula is found.

Having-fun

 

 

 

 

PD It looks like I will have to break out my micro lenses to get photos that are sharp, my present lens only focus to 1 feet, so if I get any closer it looses focus.

 

Do you have any control of exposure?  Is there any mode for closeups, like an icon with a flower?  Selecting a high aperture ratio/small aperture really helps for closeups.  Otherwise, yes a closeup or macro lens will do the job.

retdfeuerwehr

Use spellcheck in your posts.

 

As I was told when I asked, there is no spell checker on this system. I am the first one to agreed that I need a spell checker, one of my worst subjets when I was going throught school was spelling, so, if some one needs a spell checker system is me.

Gmorrison says that he types his posts in Microsoft word, spell check it, then copy and paste, I will investigate such procedure.

That's a nice build, sir. I look forward to the next one.

One ridiculous part of the kit, no reflection on the builder; is how the main mast is coaxial with the capstan... design by Disney I suppose.

For spell checking, one way to do it is to type your post in Word, spell check, and then paste into the forum. I do that with longer posts and WIPs like yours here because this forum has an annoying way of sending partial posts to the ether halfway through.

Here are 2 more photos of the Pirate Ship, it is almost completed, then I will have to fix all the bugs etc.

A side view

Here is a photo of the front of the ship.

I know that the ship may be showing the fact that I am still a beguiner, but I am learning.

PD It looks like I will have to break out my micro lenses to get photos that are sharp, my present lens only focus to 1 feet, so if I get any closer it looses focus.

Thanks Dave, thanks Bob, I will set it up on a couple of empty bottles. Bee wax I do not have any, so I will try to order it from Amazon or other vendor.

Thanks again.

Joe

Having-fun

"I cut the extra off and put a drop of thinned white glue on it for running rigging"

I have been using plastic cement on the knots, but, sometimes this makes a mess due to the cement melting the plastic. You mentioned using thinned white glue, by this you mean Elmer's glue? and if so, what ration of glue and water do you use?

Thanks Don.

 

Yep, good old Elmers, 1:1 with water, applied with toothpick.

Elmer's and water.  Thin enough to soak into thread and lock it in place.  I have two old medicine bottles: one is 50:50, the other is a bit thicker at 70:30.  If you are using cotton thread or Syren rope, you can also get the rope to lie straight by wetting it and then hanging with a clothespin on the end and letting it dry overnight.    Takes the kinks out before you use it for rigging.  I hang about 8 to 10 pieces the day before.  And always pass over the beeswax 2 or 3 times before using.  Cuts down on the fuzz and dust collection.

For standing rigging, you can add a bit of black dye or black tempra (acryl) paint in the Elmer's mixture to darken it up.

Bob