Building Revell 1:72 Pirate ship

"I cut the extra off and put a drop of thinned white glue on it for running rigging"

I have been using plastic cement on the knots, but, sometimes this makes a mess due to the cement melting the plastic. You mentioned using thinned white glue, by this you mean Elmer's glue? and if so, what ration of glue and water do you use?

Thanks Don.

Having-fun

Well Don, you are so right!, It seems that the treads has magnetic property becuase they are always stiking to intems they are no supposed to stick to, I also having problems tying knots, if I do not put some glue on the knot, many of then simply would unravell.

 

 

I should have added- it is almost impossible to cut a piece too long.  I always try to leave at least three to four inches extra in length so I have a longer end to work with- that should stop unraveling. I never regret having a piece too long (and having to spend more time working with it) but I sure do regret it when I cut it too short.

I cut the extra off and put a drop of thinned white glue on it for running rigging, a drop of black paint on black thread (standing rigging).  I may go back when it dries and trim it a bit closer with suture scissors.

First off, you model is looking good so far, nice and neat. Keep it up and you’ll turn out one fine looking model.

All the advice so far is spot on. We all have different techniques but the basics really don’t change. Work for the inside out and do your standing rigging before your running rigging. 

I usually wax my lines with Bees Wax to keep it from fraying too much. I also start with the bow sprit but that‘s me. I also tend to work from the bottom up but I’ve seen beautiful models rigged from top to bottom.

I also try and do as much work off the model as possible and add lines I know will be needed to things like belaying pins before it gets really crowded. I add blocks to spars and masts before they’re glued onto the ship. Using a tiny bit of CA on your knots will usually hold them. Just remember' it’s like the old Brylcreem commercials, “a little dab will do ya.”

You’ll find your own style as you go so try not to get frustrated and the instructions are not always correct in terms of steps, so don’t be to rigid following them.

Hopefully some of this will help,

Steve

CapnMac82

 

 

Having-fun

it also show my workbech not as neat.

 

 

Well, you always have to allow for Morrisson's Law--that there's never more than 2 square feet free no matter the size the size of the desk.

 

My present workbeach is basically a 2 x 4 piece of wood, I just need to convince the The Boss ( the wife) to see is I can increase the size to something like 3 x 8. In case you are wondering, my workbench is located in the warehouse that we call a garage.

Well Don, you are so right!, It seems that the treads has magnetic property becuase they are always stiking to intems they are no supposed to stick to, I also having problems tying knots, if I do not put some glue on the knot, many of then simply would unravell.

I am beguining to do as you recomended and only work for 1 to 2 hours then take a long breack, and I also being praticing on how to be patient, and that for me is very dificult because I tend to be hiper. I will keep trying

Bill, I do try to work from the inside out, but, at times I find that the instructuion tells me otherwise, today I was trying to add a front sail and it took me about an hour just to tied and secure the 4 treads that support the sail and the reason was becuase of the location of the tye in ports being in a crowded location.

Having-fun

it also show my workbech not as neat.

Well, you always have to allow for Morrisson's Law--that there's never more than 2 square feet free no matter the size the size of the desk.

Work from the inside out. Reaching through rigging to attach something is to be avoided.

Bill

Yes, rigging is a seperate skill different from all other model building tasks.  It takes practice, and you use the touch quickly if you are not constantly doing it.  If I finish a model and don't do another right away, it seems to take me forever to get the moves right again.  After about 30 minutes to an hour, I start getting the moves again, and the muscle memory kick in again.  However, for a first rigged kit. I recommend you realize that rigging is likely to take longer than the entire rest of the build.

First, take your time and learn patience.  Even today, after building sailing ship models for decades, If it has been awhile after the last rigged ship, I find, even after I recover my muscle memory, I cannot work on rigging for a protracted length of time.  Too much concentration and fine manipulation are required.  I never work more than an hour at a time.  Any longer and my concentration will falter and my hands shake.

Also the right tools are important.  I have two home-made tools I find essential. The first is a hook, about six inches long, made from a large, long needle like a chrochet or needlepoint needle, and cut the eye to make the needle.  A chrochet hook is also okay.  The other tool is a fork.  I use one of those large sowing needles and cut the eye in half making a fork.  Sometimes you need to push a thread between two lines close together, and that is where the fork comes in.  Other times you need to fish out a line from an inner region of the rigging, and the hook is what does this.  Vision aid is also a good idea- I use cheap readers from the dollar stores (now closed). I am glad I am in good shape for those.

Lastly you willl be tying thousands of knots.  A bit of pratice, tying twenty or thirty knots in a piece of thread before even starting on the rigging is a good idea.