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1:72 Iowa Class Mark-7, 16"-50cal Turret #1 with Custom Interior Start-to-Finish

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  • Member since
    January 2021
Posted by JoeSMG on Thursday, November 24, 2022 9:44 AM

Ouch! I really, really hate it when this happens. You're in for some pain for sure. This type of issue happens to me a lot when working only from pictures. The brain sees what it wants to see and only when the parts are in hand does reality force a course correction.

On the flip side the detail you've baked into this model is mind bogglingly brilliant!
I really am enjoying the detailed assembly shots you're posting.

But at least for today, hope you can kick back and have a happy Thanksgiving!


- Joe the SMG

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Friday, November 25, 2022 1:22 AM

Have a Happy "fulfilling" Thanksgiving to you.


Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Saturday, November 26, 2022 2:05 PM

I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. We had all our kids and grandkids together and it was great! They're all grown now with the youngest in 9th grade and oldest graduating U of IL and already has a nice job. That's the true and only role parenting (IMHO); To make fully functioning adults that can go out into the world. All the rest of the things we do is just gravy.

I'm reprinting the brackets that support the ring gear, since the spacers I glued to them are no longer needed. They were needed when I was putting them in the wrong place. I also did some fine tuning on the brackets in SketchUp so they'll fit better. In the same job I'm reprinting the pesky extended cradle/spanning tray assembly since another one broke at the junction of the rear and front portions. Printer doesn't care and since the parts are the same height on the printer, it doesn't extend the time. Besides, this is Saturday and I'm not supposed to be in the shop anyway.

I'm pretty sure I will be able to surgically remove the upper barette section without doing undo damage and reinstall it in the correct spot especially with the new brackets. That said, I also non-3D printed out some new patterns to use if I need to remake the upper shells. If I do remake them, I will be able to restore the original cutaway area.

Since I need to take the base to the plexiglass supplier this week, I can stop at the hobby shop and get the large styrene sheet I'll need for the remake. That's plan B. Plan A is removing and repositioning the existing parts and I will not need the additional plastic. To do the cutting of the styrene connecting pieces I'm looking longingly at a little, German-made, sword saw on Micro-Mark. Ths has two reciprocating blades (like an electric knife) that let you cut in places that would be difficult with a hand-held saw. 

The trouble is its voltage. It runs on 12VDC, and you need the power supply to go with it, which basically doubles the price. I have 12VDC sources, but they're not adjustable. I also have DC Buck Converters that can adjust a DC voltage output from a DC voltage input, and could be pressed into duty as a speed control. But the Micro-Mark power supply is elegant and can adjust not only voltage, but current output as well.

On another front, my lovely son and daughter in law gave me an early Hanukkah present: the 2021 full CorelDraw Suite for Mac which is the best present ever. I've been trying to use other vector drawing software to replace my non-working CorelDraw17, but to no avail. Nothing works as well. I was immediately able to print out the barbette patterns on US Letter paper in portrait and tile it over three sheets. None of the other packages I was trying could do this. For my model-making requirements, it was an essential feature.

Up to this version Corel was only available for Windows. When I inquired a few years ago, they were adament that there was no intention of porting a native version for Windows. They claimed the volume was too low. This forced me to run VM Fusion (a Windows emulation program) on my Mac which took up 125 GB of hard drive space. The whole deal was clunky, and required constant key stroke changes as I passed from the Mac to the Windows operating systems. Then something changed. It was either a Windows or VM upgrade and suddenly my CorelDraw 17 would no longer boot up. It would start and then abend and stop. Neither company could help me. When Coreldraw finally offered a fully functional product for Mac, I knew what I had to do, but my kids did it for me.

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Monday, November 28, 2022 1:14 AM

"...2021 full CorelDraw Suite for Mac ..."

Really great kids to realize you had enough ties, handkerchiefs and socks. 


Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Monday, November 28, 2022 9:15 PM

That's true! I have really great kids! They always have been, even when they were little. And amzingly, the grandkids are pretty cool too. Spoiler alert... I may be a bit biased, but my wife says I'm not.

Important things happened today. 

Took the base to the plastics supplier, General Rubber and Plastics, here in Louisville, and ordered the plexiglass. I wanted to measure the case with the salesperson present so I wasn't getting it wrong. Before heading out today I put the stack together with the gun house and elevated gun in place to get an accurate height reading. 

They will cut the plexi with a CNC machine so the edges will be accurate and pretty smooth. They don't glue anything together so I will be doing that. I'm generally good at that, but... the solvent's viscosity is very low and goes into the joint by capilary action. And it also has some static electricity problems and can jump to the surfaces before it gets into the joint area. I'd like to know how the professionals do it. Perhaps I'll do a YouTube search and see what's there.

I then went to a trophy/awards vendor and ordered the metal plaque that will be affixed to the base. 

I got into the shop about 2:00 p.m. First thing I did was fasten the 3D printed flange underneath that will stabilize the central column. The hole my friend drilled is very tight and the flange could be overkill, but I printed it so I might as well use it.

I then set up the wiring harness and circuit board in the hollowed out base bottom. I will be removing the board to tie in the LED wiring from the different circuits, but I wanted this stuff to all be located before doing the final connections.

I installed a plug between the supply and the board so the power supply could be easily discconected if nessecary. There is no off-on switch. You just unplug it to shut it off, but I may change my mind. The problem is the thickness of the base's material and how I would install said switch. I will think more about it.

Then I attacked the elephant in the room and beat it into submission. I used Admiral Nelson's approach, I went "straight at 'em!" I used the carbide router and sliced the glued-in spacers in half to free the top barbette portion. I also knocked off the 3D printed brackets since they were CA'd to styrene and broke off easily. I then used a Dremel drum sander bit and ground down everything flush finally finishing with a sanding steak. Only one joint broke loose at the edge which is fixable. 

The lower bulkhead's upper outer surface got a bit gouged in spots, but it will be buried by the overlapping barbette and won't require any filling. All in all, the surgery was successful... actually exceeding my expectations.

i printed a dozen new brackets with a corrected shape that I started to install. I'm changing my assembly routine by mounting them to the ring gears first and then applying that assemply to the inner bulkhead structure. I will then bring the upper structure into contact until the wider barbette section touches the ring gear. I tested this routine and it brings it all into proper vertical alignement.

Here's the first ring gear with the new brackets. I expanded the number from five to six per shell. The flat segments resulting from SketchUp's way of making curved surfaces by a series of straight lines, worked in my favor as I stepped off the spacing between the brackets.

The last thing I did was to remove the vertical edges of the kit-supplied deck piece. The flanges interfered with the open barbette shells, but I need that piece to tie things together. I'm thinking of laminating actual wood planking to this piece of plastic if I can get thin enough stock to do it. The 1:1 width of the actual teak decking is about 5", which is 0.070" which is awfully small and the thickness would just be 0.014". I would probably double that. I will order some Northeasten Strip Wood and maybe get some stock. There is dark caulking between the planks. One way to simulate this is to use black constuction paper on edge between the planks that are then scape them flush. If I have the time, I'll do this. 

To cut the edges I used a steel straight edge and a diamond-coated cut-off wheel and went to town. Actually the real deck is a sandwich of teak over top of the 1.5" Bomb Deck STS steel. So having real wood over the plastic substrate isn't far off albeit a bit thicker than scale. Wooden decks were used over steel to reduce shrapnel from weapons fire.

So once again, I was handed a batch of lemons and I'm opening a lemonade stand. The tear-down and re-build of the outer armor presented an opportunity to fix some things that bugged me, especially the way the brackets interacted with the ring gear. The re-designed brackets are purported to work well.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Tuesday, November 29, 2022 9:30 PM

I glued in the newly assembled ring gear and attempted to fit the upper and lower shells together, but they weren't fitting as I thought they should.

I needed a bunch of clamps to hold this stuff together and used entirely thin and med CA. 

Here we go again... I then re-checked my detailed drawing of the interface between the brackets, the two shells and the  ring gear, and found that I was wrong again!!! The brackets need to nestle up against the bottom of the barbette shell and then the ring gear butts up against it. If you look closely at the above, you'll see that the ring gear is butting up against the barbette, not the brackets. This put everything out of alignment again.

Because it was all CA'd I was able to break everything loose. I broke two of the brackets, but was able to fix them with, you guessed it, CA. In the act of ripping all this apart, I did detach the entire lower barbette skirt. It was hanging by a thread in one corner.

I again, resorted to using the 1/8" square stock to produce a stronger joint than a 0.040" wide butt joint. I put a slice in each piece enabling them to bend a bit to accommodate the flair that this lower skirt has. I also now know that the brackets don't intermingle with these pieces, which i had just cut off last week since they were interfering with the incorrect installation. This picture was a progress shot as I was moving around the perimeter.

Now, instead of gluing the brackets to the ring gear, I glued the to their correct locations directly on the shell. Again, since this is a styrene/resin joint, CA was used... in this case medium.

The outside of this assembly is pretty ragged and I just went downstairs and added filler which will be sanded tomorrow.

I was again faced with the ring gear not engaging with the brackets. If you remember two failures ago I added spacers to the brackets. This time I wanted to find out what's going on. Somewhere in the design process I changed the ring gear's profile from this...

To this:

I don't know what thought process changed the profile and removed all that stock, but its removal caused the ring gear to not be able to match the bracket's profile. I've redesigned the ring gears and fixed some other errors that I was tolerating and am reprinting them now. They're big and I can only print one at a time. The first will be done sometime in the early morning and the other will be done later in the day. Hopefully, I will finally get this right. It's been a real pain!

I changed the ring gear's position on the build plate to avoid any supports on the exposed ends or rollers.

I also finish painted all three gun slides so they're ready to go, and did the same for the reprinted cradle/spanning tray part. I'll install that tomorrow. Once the shells are correct, things will move ahead. I'm interacting with the curator to nail down a specific delivery day.

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Wednesday, November 30, 2022 6:30 PM
Just a quick aside about a model you may enjoy seeing. Yours is much more  advanced IMHO
I now return you to the build in progress


Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Wednesday, November 30, 2022 8:54 PM

Very short session. Had to go to daughter's house to let the dog out and let the HVAC tech in. Then I had a nice visit from one of the finest model builders I know, Chris Bowling. Every model Chris builds is a potential show winner. I'm doing a commission job scaling up some 1:48 decals to 1:32 for a commission job he's doing for a museum. He and I have a mutual admiration society going.

But I did get something done. Both new ring gear assemblies printed flawlessly and are finally correct. Here's the comparison of the corrected version to the erroneous original.

Notice how nicely it nestles into the bracket's notch, just as it's supposed to. I also change the location of the gear, but I'm not sure why. It works out either way. I was careful with the supports so none were on the sides facing the audience. All support damage is on the unseen reverse side.

I sanded the filler and glued all the brackets in place. I then sprayed the whole deal with flat white. I'll have to redo the red cutaway cross-sections, but that's not difficult. Tomorrow I will reattach the upper barbette to the lower bulkheads and install the ring gears and we'll be back on schedule. Before painting I masked the gluing faces of the brackets to insure that there's a good gluing surface.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Thursday, December 1, 2022 6:52 PM

Long session today. Got a lot of the punchlist items done, including: finish painting all the remaining projectiles, replacing the broken cradle/spanning tray in the center gun compartment, installed the last LEDs under the gun girders, painted the new ring gears and installed them, opened up an enlarged cutaway in the inner shell to match the larger one of the outer, and built the primermna's platforms that will go into the pan deck. Starting with painting and detailing the new ring gears, then installed them.

Again, I overall painted them dark iron and Allclad metal for the gear itself and then highlight the cut off ends with red and put high gloss metal on the exposed rollers on the ends. The ring gears are the "true" diamter that the shells should be, but the shells, after splitting did attempt to staighten out. It's amazing how much spring is in the sytrene sheet. Instead of trying to glue the ring to the entire array of the brackets requiring lots of pressure to hold it all together, I just glued up the four inner brackets with CA and when they were set, just had to haul in the ends and used epoxy. That 1/4" had a lot of tension.

I put the epoxy in the joint area and held it together with Quickie Clamps. One shell came out nice and strong. The other, as you'll see, broke loose and is requirng a stronger intervention.

While the epoxy was curing I did all the rest of the stuff. The primerman's platform required some estimation of its location both X-Y and Z. I estimated that the breach was about 7 feet above the guy's head because they're reaching up pretty high to place the cartridge in the breach lock. I then measured down from this point to detemine the height of the platform. In pictures the platform is on some spindly tubular metal legs, but I chose the easy way out with some Evergreen Styrene angle.

I let them dry for the rest of the session and will paint and install them tomorrow. Because of my lousy spacing of the partitiosn (they are not even), The left gun's platform is interferring with the projectile hoist chase and it will need trimming to fit right. That said, you can't see this platform at all, so it really won't matter. You will see the right gun's platform as it is right in front. The angle's a little out of scale, but it was the smallest I had.

Next up was installing the last two LEDs under the gun girder that will give some more light into the pan deck. As before, I used the copper foil tape method testing the LEDs before installation, after soldering in place and then after wired up. All was good. I combined the black negative leads and just let the red leads be independent.

I painted all the silver tips on the remaining projectiles and then went back and touched up the yellow, O.D. and the spin band brass. I didn't take any pics of this... boring.

I removed the broken cradle/spanning tray from the center gun rear compartment, and attached the new, stronger version. Again, no image.

I enlarged the cutaway in the lower bulkhead shells so it now matched that enlarged one in the barbette shells. The enlargement was a mistake, but I'm living with it. More views into the model are not a bad thing. The mask was to isolate the exterior for the white airbrush touchup. I still have to do the red edge trimming and with the red paint pen is much less stressful.

The last thing was fixing something...again. The tension on the one of the shells was too great and the epoxy let go. I 1/16" drilled through the shell, bracket and into the ring gear and was in the process of epoxying a 1/16" brass bar to reinforce that critical joint. I ran out of time.

Also, the joining of the upper and lower shells is going to be a challenge. The lower shells cone taper is way too shallow. Again, it's partially because splitting the cylinder allowed everything to splay outwards. It was taking way too much force to have all the brackets in good contact all the way around. Instead of forcing the issue and breaking something agian, I'm going to make sure that the brackets on either end match the cone's angles and the one in the middle that are completely obscured, will find their own level. I'm tiring of this challenge and don't want the perfect to be the enemy of the good.

I'm getting really close to starting to stack all this stuff together. If I were to do this again, I would make darn sure that the gun girders were more accurate. The two center platforms are not equal and this is reflected down to the pan deck. The only saving grace is it will be difficult to view the model from directly overhead... I hope. 

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Friday, December 2, 2022 6:22 PM

First of all, the 1/16" pins plus J-B 30 minute epoxy did the trick. Those joints are not solid and will not let go. I ended up filling them again after I ground off the protruding pins and did a little bit of plastic damage. I have some touch up painting to do... again, and that will finish this up FINALLY.

I painted the primerman's platforms with Allclad metalllic and then glued them onto the pan deck partitiions. There was much more surface area on the flanks of the styrene angle, than on their little tiny feet. I first tried to use clear silicone caulk as an adhesive since it might have some give and not be too brittle, but the stuff didn't work at all. I removed all of it and then used my standby gel CA. The one on the right side of the image (left gun), is in the way of the projectile chase and I'll hack at it to get the clearance. This one is out of sight behind the bulkhead so not matter what I do to it, no one will ever know, other than the myriad of people that read this stuff on four fourms.

I drilled a hole in the back compartment of the e-deck to pass the pan deck's wiring down into the bowels of the structure. I

t was now time to join these two critical components. I've shown this months ago, but there are reinforcing ribs under the pan deck base to help minimize warping (it worked...sort of), and I then had relief cuts all over the e-deck to nestle into these ribs. The p-deck base did warp some with the midsection bulging downwards and that made for some very repetitive fitting steps to relieve all the high spots on the e-deck so the two would nest properly.

But lately, the two were not fitting correctly. The back section did, but not the part where the pinion gears lie. Today I spent a lot of concentration and using my iPhone's light to see if I could find what was impinging that was keeping them apart. First i found that the hydraulic lines running up to the p-deck were too tall, so I chopped them down, but the fit did not improve.

Finally, I found the culprit. When I rebuilt the bulkheads that surround the pinion gears, I neglected to cut the relief notches into the new parts. It was a small triangle of the new material that was too high. When I trimmed it, it again fit as it did before.

It needed some concetrated and even pressure to hold the two decks in close contact so I could apply the epoxy. Again, I resorted to using a disposable syringe to apply it precisely.

I arranged to big Quickie clamps with some blocking to get the joint tight. I had to be very careful since the clamps could exert enough force to crush the e-deck's side walls. I tightened until I started hearing some ominous creaking sounds and then backed off. 

Here's the syringe that applied the epoxy. I purchased a set of syringes of different sizes and interchangeable tips just for this purpose from Amazon.

Here's two views of the final joint. There's just a couple of spots that will need cleanup. I will paint the epoxy next session when it's fully cured.

Here's a normal view of the assembly. This was the singularly most challenging of the joints since it wasn't stabilized by the central column. The other decks don't even have to be glued together to be concentric.

 It's mighty dark in there... needs some lights... oh... wait... there are lights. Glad I thought of it ahead of time.

I was now ready to finally finish up the gun house and create the six bulkheads that separate the gun pits. I had drawings of these that were made a long time ago before all this stuff was actually created, but they were pretty close. The did nto reflect the new learning of how people entered and exited the gun pits, especially the center gun alcove and the big opennings in the side guns.

Here's the right side gun's left bulkhead now fitted to the little bit of it that's included in the gun compartment printing. I noted on this picture where I'm going to re-attach the foot rungs and will do it off the model so it won't be so difficult.

And I built the center gun's right bulkhead and attached it to the alcove. Here is it test fit with the rear compartment. The white sytrene is so nice, I may not paint it.

I have four more buikheads to fit and then I'll assemble the pan deck to the gun girder, kit base and kit deck part. Once that's done, I'll install the gun compartments, powder trunks with the one where the powder car is exposed, the hoist machinery, and the side aisle details. Before I do the above I have to decide whether or not to laminate real wood planking to the main deck. 

All in all, it sounds like a lot of work, but in reality, it's not too much since (I think) all the show stoppers are now taken care of. This is pretty much straight model building, not naval architecture. I should make my deadline.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Saturday, December 3, 2022 6:45 PM

A nice long Saturday session. My wife, realizing that I have a real deadline on this project, has relaxed the, no-model-building-on-weekends rule. And I took advantage of it.

This was a particularly important session that had consumed a lot of my creative juices. I couldn't measure the gun house bulkheads until all the stuff below it was done. I needed the pan deck to be stabilized and by gluing it to the e-deck accomplished that. Each bulkhead had to be hand-fitted because of end compartment variations. 

Before doing any of this, I did some airbrush touchup of the now-fully-cured epoxy joint, which is now looking great.

The two outside bulkheads, with the large opening, were actually the easiest to do since they didn't interact with the powder hoist trunks. The hoist trunks also couldn't be finalized until I created the bulkheads... sort of a chicken/egg scenario. As it worked out, the hoist trunks needed some elective surgery. I was never really sure of the interaction of the bulkheads and the trunks and was going to play it by ear once I got to that point.

To cut the square corners in styrene (or wood) I use the right-angle chisel I got from MicroMark years ago. For scratch-building sytrene it's really great. 

I use it in the drill press. I stack up wood packing under the table since the pressure is so high when punching the table lock can slip. The packing provides a solid, immovable base so the chisel works as designed. I pre-scribe the cut lines giving the chisel a positive engaugement position. It's easier for me to leave the chisel in this positiion and rotate the work around to pick up the other corners than to spin the chuck around by hand.

A particularly challenging bulkhead was the one that's going to have the open powder door. This image shows the opening before I made it a little wider so the door frame fully occluded the opening's edges. BTW: that cradle also broke while doing all this manhandling. I had another good one printed, so I painted it and fixed this one. Once the compartments are glued into the gun girder, those delicate spanning trays will be out of harm's way and won't constantly get broken. The critical fit was the butt joint between the styrene bulkhead and 3D resin printed compartment. I made the compartement walls 0.040" to match the styrene's width when assembled.

Here are all six bulkheads taped in place for a beauty shot. Obviously they're all out of alignment, but won't be when installed permanently.

I have some left over Archer Fine Decal rivet decals that I used when building the girder bridges on my model railroad 8 years ago. There are rivets on panels in these buikheads and I decided to add them only on the viewer-facing ones. First I scribed the panels at a scale 3' width. I then added decals that looked apropiate. In one of my images I notice that there is a break in the bulkhead right in the area of of the trunnion caps to permit access to them for maintenance. Not sure if I'm going to add this since I have no really good information on what it actually looks like. It under the gun house roof area so won't be to obvious if I don't add them.

This is all the bulkheads... Note the little relief cuts in area over the trunnions. That's to clear the trunnion bolts. They weren't sitting down correctly without them.

And here are the three that will have rivets. Notice that I cut two strategic cutaways that will expose the gun slide's flanks and the hoist machinery. With this riveting, I will have to paint the panels.

While "adjusting" the double hoist trunk, the thin separation panels that stick up, broke apart (the second time, I might add). I removed all of it down to good material and rebuilt this part with styrene. The reason for the adjustment was the width. I neglected to add relief for the bulkheads. I probably thought at one time that the flank of the trunk would serve as the bulkhead, but decided against it. You can see the surgical scar on the trunk's flank. It's completey covered by the bulkhead.

Getting these bulkheads cut and fit is huge! It, like joining the shells and the e-p deck joint, were very hard to predict the outcome. I did many iterations in my head about how this could go, but until I started cutting and fitting, I was never sure it would work out. It has and the rest of the work is going to go pretty well. I only have a very few parts that need to be installed. I'm predicting that the turret itself will be done by next weekend, leaving a few days to build the remaining kit parts, the crew members, the display case and finally any accompanying graphics. It should all be ready on time. If I had any doubts that this would come out as I envisioned and drew it, those doubts are now dispelled.

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: back country of SO-CAL, at the birth place of Naval Aviation
Posted by DUSTER on Saturday, December 3, 2022 11:32 PM

  Although you may break into the 11/11 category

really soon. 


Building the perfect model---just not quite yet  Confused

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Sunday, December 4, 2022 8:59 AM

I Have a silly Question!

      When you get all this done, How will they stand up to firing a few shots? LOL. This is looking awesome! Makes me think.Transfer at sea.Taking 5"-38 shells from their pallets to the Mags Below on our Gearing Class destroyer to  the different decks and into the magazine storage area. Scary for sure! You sure did them Bullets right!

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Sunday, December 4, 2022 10:59 AM

   Calling this impressive would be an understatement. WOW!

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Monday, December 5, 2022 6:23 PM

Thanks all! Firing...heh, heh. I'll be lucky if I can move it from Lousiville to the Battleship without popping glue joints I'll be very happy.

I epoxied the upper barbette to the lower shells to the upper side of the brackets. Next session I'm going to tie the lower ends of the brackets to the shell. I will again, use some metal pins to secure the joints. 

I then airbrushed the now-cut gun house bulkheads and made those missing ladder rungs. It was so much easier to install them in a piece of styrene than on the angles in the gun girders. 

And then I started loading the stuff in to the gun house. I started with the left gun. First I tested whether I could install the rear compartment piece before the guns went in. I found that I could, but I decided that I couldn't get the guns in AFTER the bulkheads are in since the bulkheads sit on top of the trunnion caps. It's there position over the caps that enabled me to NOT glue the caps down, but just let the bulkheads hold them, thereby preventing any CA geting in to the Trunnions and freezing the guns. I need those guns to be movable so I can adjust them when the bloomers go on.

I used the 3M transfer adhesive tape to hold the compartments and some of the bulkheads in place. It works... sort of. At least it's not brittle. Notice I also installed the side aisle hatch to the L sighting stations. Needs some touch up painting. 

Next was installing the double powder trunk and the center gun and bulkheads. Because of the trunks and the elevation screws going down one deck below the gun house, I originally thought that I would have to install all this stuff with the pan deck connected below, making an awkward assembly upon which to work. I solved the dilemma by attaching the gun house to a box with sufficient depth to protect these down-hanging things. I just used some rubber bands to hold it all.

In this image you can also see the installed powder hoist winches and the small bulkhead separating them. That strategic cutaway helps viewers see these machines.

In the above, I tested the fit of the gun house shell just to make sure it still fit. Whew! It still does.!

At this point I realized I hadn't glazed the view ports from the hoist operator's booth to the gun pit and the portholes in the rear bulkhead. I used a new bottle of MicroScale Kristel Klear that had not kicked. And it works. This image shows the stuff completely webbing over the porthole openings. 

Onto the right gun.

I needed to do some surgery on the powder cart that I want to sit behind the open powder door. It was too wide and too deep. Some agressive sanding on the disk sander beat it into submission.

I didn't trim the powder trunk sufficiently and it was sitting proud of the girder and forced the side bulkhead out of alignment a bit. I may remove the bulkhead tomorrow and trim that trunk and reinstall. Here's two shots of the final state from today's session.

The guns fit in the compartments with same very tight clearances they do on the real thing. There's a lot of little touch up jobs to do before this is finished.

Here's another shot from the side. One more bulkhead to go on and then onto the officer's booth. There's going to be one powder bag sitting in it. The powder do will be installed before the outer bulkhead goes in. There will be another cutaway in that bulkhead to show more of the hidden gun slide flanks.

Like George Peppard of the "A-Team" used to say, "It's great to see a plan come together!" Sure is! Gun house interior will be done tomorrow.

Oh... and one more thing. The plastics supply house called and my Plexiglass display case parts are in. I will pick them up tomorrow. 


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