HMS Victory build

You have a habit of making it all sound so easy,lol
After I posted, I was looking more at the ship references I have and the model, given it's size and the fact that I am looking at possibly over a years build anyway, the added benefit of having correct rigging outways the cost in time(which of course in a hobby is free!)
The reason I need the anchor done sone(ish) is that as you know it runs between decks, so once I've got the hull painted and the second deck goes in, I won't be able to thread this rope.
I did find some reference sites on rope making. and indeed I do understand the difference you are talking of, but I suspect that very...VERY few people in this world could look at a model ship line and say"hang on a minute, that's laying the wrong way!" Just as very few people know which way to coil a rope!
I'm starting to be of the opinion that the plastic parts are just there to hang the rigging from! which is the actual challenge? I think we know the answer to this one. Yes it's some way off before the lines go on, but rather than panic at that time, if I try to get prepared now, it may just not come as such an overwhelming experiance?

Vapochilled - Braiding (if the word is to be taken literally) the anchor hawsers or any other piece of ship model rigging would be utterly ridiculous. With the exceptions of ornamental ropework, I can't think of a single instance of real eighteenth-century line being braided. It was twisted.

Somewhere along the line every builder of a big sailing ship model has to decide how interested he or she is in accuracy when it comes to rigging. In the case of a ship like the Victory, just about the only way to reproduce the rigging line with real accuracy is to make at least some of it yourself. There are two reasons for that. One - the rope on board the real ship is in a huge variety of sizes - considerably more than any manufacturer offers. Two - most of the standing rigging of an eighteenth-century British warship was cable-laid, whereas virtually all commercially available thread is hawser-laid.

The difference is obvious in a picture, but a little tricky to explain verbally. Imagine a drawing of a piece of rope, running vertically. The individual strands of the rope show up as diagonal lines. If those lines run upward to the right, the rope is hawser-laid. If they run upward to the left, it's cable-laid. (There's a third possibility: the lower shrouds generally were shroud-laid. Shroud-laid rope looks like cable-laid rope, but has four strands instead of three. That distinction isn't terribly relevant to model builders.)

Building a "rope-making machine" isn't as hard as it may sound; it can be done in an evening using gears, shafts, and bearings from a Lego set. But the act of making the rope does add a good deal to the time it takes to build the model - especially a model like this one. (The individual strands making up the main topgallant backstays probably would have to be about fifteen feet long, twisted into lengths of four or five feet.)

I don't blame anybody who thinks making his or her own rope is, as you put it, a little extreme - especially on your first attempt at a sailing ship model. If you use commercially-available thread, few people are likely to notice the difference. To those who are in the early stages of their models, I'd suggest putting off the decision till quite a bit later.

In the mean time, if your immediate concern is the anchor hawsers - they really don't pose much of a problem because they're so short. (I imagine six inches would be plenty.) You probably can make good-looking rope for them simply by twisting three strands of thinner thread together and putting a drop of white glue on each end. The strands will try to untwist (that's the inherent complication of rope-making), but if you soak them in water overnight and clamp each end while they dry I suspect they'll hold their shape.

I am looking tusing Jewelry Cord that you can find in the bead making section of HobbyLobby. It is 1.4mm and with two strands, it should make for a nice anchor rope.

<Gleason>

Originally posted by vapochilled Jtilley, thanks so much for the info and links on the rigging, I'll be ordering from there for sure. However I need to make up an anchor line 2mm Dia, the kit suggests braiding 0.03 line into a rope, I looked at the hand winding contraptions, but it seems a little extreme to me,lol Reply Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 22, 2005 5:47 PM Ah hang on, http://www.modelexpo-online.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe I could dye this stuff? Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 22, 2005 5:45 PM Jtilley, thanks so much for the info and links on the rigging, I'll be ordering from there for sure. However I need to make up an anchor line 2mm Dia, the kit suggests braiding 0.03 line into a rope, I looked at the hand winding contraptions, but it seems a little extreme to me,lol I've never done braidin(obviously) and have no idea how to do it, it won't matter if I use cotton as any "sag" won't be seen, I only need about 300mm of the stuff, any ideas on what to use? Being 2mm it will and should look like the braid on braid used in the real thing. Short of actually learning admiralty rope making, I can't for the life of me think what to use? Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 5:18 PM Vapo-have you used 600 grit wet? You couldn't feel it on your eyeball. Just thinking out loud here, son. Give it a try-on scrap of course-always experiment and not just with mind-altering drugs. But, as always, these are suggestions only. Please do as you will, buddy. Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 4:00 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by trowlfazz Naw-we didn't have birds back then. Here's a theory: paint the stern yellow then clear coat it-let dry-paint it black (per the 'Stones) and do a knock off rub with wet 600 grit. That'll take the yellow of as well won't it? Right now I'm leaning towards the do it yellow, then use the rotring with water based paint to do the gaps in the posts, the rest can be brushes with the same paint Just concerned that the brushed on, will look widly different to the AB black on the hull. Right now I'm just getting the filler done on the hull, man! I've repaired holes in cars that did not need this much filler, Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 3:12 PM Naw-we didn't have birds back then. Here's a theory: paint the stern yellow then clear coat it-let dry-paint it black (per the 'Stones) and do a knock off rub with wet 600 grit. Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 3:04 PM Showing your age, you sure you wern't using a feather? lol Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 2:48 PM Vapo-Kohninor (SP?) used to make humidors for their pens-but since they were stored vertically-the heavy carbon in the ink settled to the bottom-so all you got was a watery mess. The good ole days! Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 1:34 PM So I could mix up, some water based paint, and run it through the pen? then just OOO brush where it pooled a little? Sounds like a plan. As for a model for the ages, you damm straight I am, this thing better not need re-doing before my demise!! Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 1:32 PM Trust me, I too know of the "shake,shake, expletive" pens! Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 1:00 PM Vapo-it does darken after dullcoat-the rotring pens are another option; they are water based but expensive and hard to keep flowing. I should know-i spent many years shaking the bastards. But once water based pigments are encased in dullcoat they're safe. You're not building a model for the ages are you? ;-) Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 12:33 PM Jose, sry, my bad, I should search harder, I did try and look but could not see anything. That's not a bad way of doing it, just means using waters based black for the entire hull, which I wanted to avoid as I don't think it's as durable, correct me if I'm wrong please. Also, having never used gloss or flat coat before. As for you Trowlfazz,lol sarcastic swine, I did actually think of the permant makers, but even the black, seems to have a deep blue tinge to it Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 11:28 AM Hello all! Just brought up a thread from the archives regarding painting the Victory stern - I'm still working on my Revell 1/96 Constitution. That stern is a bit easier. Jose Gonzales Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 21, 2005 7:57 AM Yes you can Mr. Steady Hands. Also you can "puddle" in dilute black and build up the colour. Also think about permanent magic markers-a lot of people use those. The colour looks a little funny until you hit it will Dullcoat (make sure they're permanent). Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 10:17 PM all the versions I've seen, inc the real thing(though she's weathered a bit now) call for a sunflower yellow, so it won't be an in your face kinda paint scheme(well I hope not). problem is that cutting in the black between the posts is going to be nigh on impossible, the gap is approx half a mm! steady hand or not, you can't do that without it looking cr@p Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 9:52 PM Yellow doesn't cover black well-you need tons of coats-best to paint yellow first and 'cut in' with black. Besides, use maize or muddy your yellow--you don't want it to look like a NO whorehouse. Reply Edit Anonymous Member since November 2005 HMS Victory build Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 7:52 PM Starting a thread for anyone doing a build of the heller/airfix 1/100 victory. 19 down, 85 to go! why oh why did I not choose to model a hobby cat! lol I'm looking at starting to paint the stern gallery parts, but don't really know where to start! Should I do the yellow first then hand paint in the black or tother way round, as per pic below. Reply Edit « First«012345 JOIN OUR COMMUNITY! Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account. Login Register SEARCH FORUMS FREE NEWSLETTER SIGN UP By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy. FORUMS PRODUCT REVIEWS READER GALLERY HOW TO VIDEOS SHOP ABOUT US FREE MONTHLY NEWSLETTER SIGN UP By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. 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