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Applying instant glue/superglue/cyano

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  • Member since
    May 2016
Applying instant glue/superglue/cyano
Posted by Hobbie on Friday, January 4, 2019 2:34 AM

Ok, this is probably the dumbest question ever...

How do you photoetch freaks apply your instant glue?

Most of the time, I make a mess, big glue spots, fingers melted together or so few glue that the photoetch comes off...

Once, I used a supermarket brand of instant glue that came with a applying brush, but the quality seemed pretty questionable. I came back to Loctite but no brush there. I keep it in the fridge to make it last?

What is the best way to do it according to you? Which tools help? 

I'll be in the shame corner if somebody cares to dignify this with an answer Dead

 

Arguing with an engineer is like wrestling with a pig in the mud : after a while, you realize the pig likes it.

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, January 4, 2019 4:03 AM

I use a toothpick with medium ca glue . it give's you a bit of time to position your piece . some guy's here use elmer's white glue , don't like it  myself , too messy . but something a bit slower drying and a small tool .

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, January 4, 2019 4:16 AM

I use a  piece of thin wire, i normally use 5amp fuse wire. I also tend not to take my glue straight from the bottle, but instead put a small amount on a piece of wax paper. If i have a long piece that need glue along an edge, i can simply touch the piece to the blob of glue.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Friday, January 4, 2019 7:03 AM

Darren Scannell of the Resin Shipyard demonstated this technique several years ago at an IPMS Nationals

http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

He uses Teflon radio-control control sheathing tube and stretches it like you would a piece of sprue (Didja  know that when you stretch sprue the shape remains?  Square remains square, but finer.  A tube remains a tube, but finer.)

Put the unstretched end of the tube over the spout of liquid CA.  The hair thick tube   delivers a pin-point sized drop with good control.I use this to run a bead of glue along the gutter rail of PE railing.

Teflon is not affected by the glue.   But if the tip clogs just nip back to a good point, often 1/8 inch or less.

I bought a 24" inch length of RC tubing for less than $5.00 at the local Hobby Town and was able to make a couple dozen tips.

  • Member since
    February 2016
  • From: Ice coated north 40 saskatchewan
Posted by German Armour on Friday, January 4, 2019 9:01 AM
That's a good link! Thanks for the good idea.

 Never give up, never quit, never stop modelling.Idea

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, January 4, 2019 9:44 AM

steve5

I use a toothpick with medium ca glue . it give's you a bit of time to position your piece . some guy's here use elmer's white glue , don't like it  myself , too messy . but something a bit slower drying and a small tool .

 

Ditto on the gel CA, but I also use white glue at times, again applied with a toothpick.  It depends a lot on the piece and its location.  I apply the white glue with a toothpick also, so it isn't that messy.  The light weight of PE means you don't need a lot of strength.

With either glue I sometimes put the spot of glue in the spot it will go, other times on the PE piece.  Really depends strongly on where I am putting the piece, and what the piece looks like.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Friday, January 4, 2019 10:39 AM

I made a few applicators using different sizes of sewing needles. Clip off about 2/3 of the eye and drill the appropiate size hole in the end of a section of 1/4" dowel that is comfortable to hold.  Shove the sharp end of the needle in the hole, can put some CA in the hole first if you want.

Just scrape and pick any hardened CA off the needle with a blade.

Picked up this tip from here on the forum.Bow Down

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Sunday, January 6, 2019 7:30 PM

I use a scrap piece of wire myself. I use this CA glue because it's far more stronger than the other usual brands.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Monday, January 7, 2019 12:56 AM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

I use a scrap piece of wire myself. I use this CA glue because it's far more stronger than the other usual brands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great stuff but so expensive! I just buy the little tubes of super glue regular and gel in the multi pack. I dispense on a plate, use some wire to apply. It costs $3.00 at hobby Lobby for 3 tubes.

  • Member since
    May 2016
Posted by Hobbie on Monday, January 7, 2019 1:23 AM

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

I found a MIG product called slow dry cyano at my local shop this weekend, I'll give it a try! Thank you all :-)

Arguing with an engineer is like wrestling with a pig in the mud : after a while, you realize the pig likes it.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, January 7, 2019 6:26 AM

modelmaker66

 

 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour

I use a scrap piece of wire myself. I use this CA glue because it's far more stronger than the other usual brands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great stuff but so expensive! I just buy the little tubes of super glue regular and gel in the multi pack. I dispense on a plate, use some wire to apply. It costs $3.00 at hobby Lobby for 3 tubes.

 

 

 

I agree they're expensive but I find it laughable to your comment. It's like calling the kettle black. It's no different than buying the best brand in kits, paint, and tools. Just saying...

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Monday, January 7, 2019 8:59 AM

Hi;

 Just as an aside,I use Insta-Cure from Bob Smith Industries .Local Hobby Shop label .I preferthe Insta -Cure + type .

 I apply it with a fruit skewer ( small ) you can get a pack of small ones for about a buck at Dollar General Stores . They are small ( about a third of the diameter of a pencil ( Wood ) and you can cut and re-sharpen the pointed end with sandpaper till it's to short to use !

 I use the butt end to apply Zip-Kicker .

  • Member since
    November 2017
  • From: Alabama
Posted by carsandplanes on Tuesday, January 22, 2019 3:44 PM

EdGrune

Darren Scannell of the Resin Shipyard demonstated this technique several years ago at an IPMS Nationals

http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

He uses Teflon radio-control control sheathing tube and stretches it like you would a piece of sprue (Didja  know that when you stretch sprue the shape remains?  Square remains square, but finer.  A tube remains a tube, but finer.)

Put the unstretched end of the tube over the spout of liquid CA.  The hair thick tube   delivers a pin-point sized drop with good control.I use this to run a bead of glue along the gutter rail of PE railing.

Teflon is not affected by the glue.   But if the tip clogs just nip back to a good point, often 1/8 inch or less.

I bought a 24" inch length of RC tubing for less than $5.00 at the local Hobby Town and was able to make a couple dozen tips.

 

 

This is awesome and something I haven't discovered yet.I already have the tubing so I'm going to get after this soon. Thanks for sharing.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, January 23, 2019 8:49 AM

steve5

I use a toothpick with medium ca glue . it give's you a bit of time to position your piece . some guy's here use elmer's white glue , don't like it  myself , too messy . but something a bit slower drying and a small tool .

 

I use the gel ca also, for spot gluing on things like railings.  Then I go back to white glue thinned 1:1 with water for the whole thing. The white glue takes too long to dry- a few spots of ca gel make it easier.  I also use a toothpick for the gel, and a homemade applicator for the white glue, a large needle with eye ground in half to make a fork, and jammed in a piece of dowel.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2019
Posted by Edwin on Wednesday, January 23, 2019 10:50 AM

Hobbie, hope you don’t mind that I piggyback off your topic. 

On the subject of CA. I often use CA to join parts after painting, especially when adding final details like pitot tubes, landing gear etc. So my question to the folks here: would you remove the paint from the surfaces to be glued? Or just apply CA to the painted surfaces?

I would think removing the paint makes for a better bond. However sometimes scraping off the paint results in the fit becoming not as good, as some plastic will inevitably get shaved. 

Or does it not make much of a difference, and I’m just worrying over nothing?

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, January 24, 2019 8:21 AM

I always remove the paint.  As an alternate to scraping, for small parts I drill a little dimple or two through the paint layer.  I don't trust the strength of the paint bond.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2019
Posted by Edwin on Thursday, January 24, 2019 9:03 AM

Don Stauffer

I always remove the paint.  As an alternate to scraping, for small parts I drill a little dimple or two through the paint layer.  I don't trust the strength of the paint bond.

 

Thanks for the tip, Don! Toast

Will try the drill technique, kind of just nick the painted surface with the drill bit. 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:01 AM

I dislike working CA and avoid it as much as I can. Dries to fast, makes a mess, and my gluing skills aren't the best anyway.

For CA, it is usually Gator's Grip white glue (like Elmers, but lots better), or CA Gel (same as Don)

2 cents

Edit: just realized this doens't really address your question, sorry.

 

-Greg

  • Member since
    January 2019
Posted by Edwin on Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:29 AM

Greg

I dislike working CA and avoid it as much as I can. Dries to fast, makes a mess, and my gluing skills aren't the best anyway.

For CA, it is usually Gator's Grip white glue (like Elmers, but lots better), or CA Gel (same as Don)

2 cents

Edit: just realized this doens't really address your question, sorry.

 

 

No problem even if it doesn’t address the question, Greg. Always good to hear how others tackle the issue. 

I share your opinion of CA, but I do think it offers a better bond compared with white glue. Will give Gator’s grip a try though, if I come across it. 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, January 24, 2019 5:24 PM

Thanks for being understanding, Edwin.

Funny we are talking about CA. I just had a horrible away from home repair experience with CA an hour ago. I hate the stuff, I'm mad, I have fingernails glued to skin, my nose burns like a 15 yr old with severe acne, and if I was home I'd go downstairs and throw every container of the gad-dunged junk away. (except the Bob Smith CA Gel, which I love)

It's dangerous and I can't understand why it has not been criminalized in California yet.

So there. Stick out tongue

Hey, back to your topic, back home I have some neato CA applicators I bought at the Nats in Cincinnati a few years ago. There are a PE set, they clamp into an exacto blade handle, work great and after use you just hold them over a lighter flame, the hardened CA burns right off and you're good to go again. I'm looking for them online, if I find them I'll pass along to you, Edwin.

-Greg

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, January 24, 2019 6:23 PM

goldhammer

I made a few applicators using different sizes of sewing needles. Clip off about 2/3 of the eye and drill the appropiate size hole in the end of a section of 1/4" dowel that is comfortable to hold.  Shove the sharp end of the needle in the hole, can put some CA in the hole first if you want.

Just scrape and pick any hardened CA off the needle with a blade.

Picked up this tip from here on the forum.Bow Down

 

Ditto but I use a lit candle to clean up the needle then wipe clean on a paper towel. I also use a tooth pick to apply Alene’s which is way stronger than Elmers and also use Gorilla Superglue Gel depending on the application.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

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