Tamiya Fine Surface Primer

The main point of my post was that there are lots of options out there for thinning when using this method of decanting and airbrushing.  

Eaglecash867

The main point of my post was that there are lots of options out there for thinning when using this method of decanting and airbrushing.  

 

I agree and do it myself. But it seems I got the thread out of sequence anyway, so you can stop banging your head lol !!!.

good point about the remnants in the can, there is always product leftover you can't get out after the aerosol stops 

Once the can is out of pressure you can drill a hole near the top, turn the can so material will drip out, then drill a vent hole in the bottom. 1/8" or less bit size.

You actually can drain the whole can that way. Just let the can sit and rest, drill a pin hole up near the top so it can out gas. No paint will exit because the hole is well above the liquid line, these cans are only 2/3 full or so, the rest gas. Open the hole up a bit once outgassing is done. Turn it upside down on top of your new storage container ( I use cleaned out glass honey jars) Then drill a pin hole in the bottom so as the liquid leaves it can draw in air through that vent hole you made. No fuss no mess, nothing to clean up.

Glass Honey jars work, jam/jelly jars etc. I just cut a gasket for the top from a Cheerios box or similar, that the solvents won't eat.

Never had any issue with the stuff. Are you warning the can up beore spraying? I can't imagine ever getting anything but  a smooth finish with Tamiya fine surface primer...

cbaltrin

Never had any issue with the stuff. Are you warning the can up beore spraying? I can't imagine ever getting anything but  a smooth finish with Tamiya fine surface primer...

 

To me the spray can works great except for the fact it represents a colossal waste of product. I sprayed a chassis to a 34 Ford pickup outside with the can and the slight breeze swept away a huge cloud of product each time I pressed the nozzle. I decanted then shot the same primer ( Mr Surfacer in my case) in my kitchen into a trash can. Virtually no over spray in the room, I shot a seat and another small part taped to the top of a tums container. Used a thimble full of paint in the side cup of my airbrush and returned half of that back to my decanted jar. It's a huge difference in the amount of primer used when you pin point where it's going with the airbrush at low pressure and low liquid flow. Much more control over all factors.

But that's me, half of the hobby to me is diddling around with stuff like this. Not so much to others. So happens when I bought the Mr Surfacer they only had spray cans in stock, which might be fine for a medium scale ship hull but not for what I do. I normally stock jars, I have Mr Primer Surfacer in jars but that's not what I wanted for this kit as it only comes light/medium grey.. So I decanted, no big deal.

oldermodelguy

To me the spray can works great except for the fact it represents a colossal waste of product. I sprayed a chassis to a 34 Ford pickup outside with the can and the slight breeze swept away a huge cloud of product each time I pressed the nozzle. I decanted then shot the same primer ( Mr Surfacer in my case) in my kitchen into a trash can. Virtually no over spray in the room, I shot a seat and another small part taped to the top of a tums container. Used a thimble full of paint in the side cup of my airbrush and returned half of that back to my decanted jar. It's a huge difference in the amount of primer used when you pin point where it's going with the airbrush at low pressure and low liquid flow. Much more control over all factors. But that's me, half of the hobby to me is diddling around with stuff like this. Not so much to others. So happens when I bought the Mr Surfacer they only had spray cans in stock, which might be fine for a medium scale ship hull but not for what I do. I normally stock jars, I have Mr Primer Surfacer in jars but that's not what I wanted for this kit as it only comes light/medium grey.. So I decanted, no big deal.

Never liked the waste of product either, along with being at the mercy of what it was doing outside before I could go out and use a rattle can to apply primer.  I also have no overspray in the room and can put primer exactly where I want it, so if anything needs to be masked off, its just going to be a small area around where I'm shooting the primer.  Granted, the decanting process is more complicated than just shooting directly from the can, but the small can of Tamiya Surface Primer ends up lasting me anywhere from 4 to 6 months...and I prime everything.

Messing with different ways of getting things done has always been half the hobby to me too.  Before I started decanting, I tried watching videos of how to do it, and there were all these guys out there putting masking tape over paper cups, punching holes in the tape, and decanting just what they needed right then.  A bunch more were cutting the cans open, making all of these elaborate setups to keep from making a mess, and that's when I thought "there HAS to be a better way!"...and then the gears in my head start turning.  I just bought a case of mason jars and started decanting everything, a whole can at a time.  5 to 10 minutes of time investment, for months of trouble-free, weather-independent airbrushing.

Eaglecash867

 

Never liked the waste of product either, along with being at the mercy of what it was doing outside before I could go out and use a rattle can to apply primer.  I also have no overspray in the room and can put primer exactly where I want it, so if anything needs to be masked off, its just going to be a small area around where I'm shooting the primer.  Granted, the decanting process is more complicated than just shooting directly from the can, but the small can of Tamiya Surface Primer ends up lasting me anywhere from 4 to 6 months...and I prime everything.

Messing with different ways of getting things done has always been half the hobby to me too.  Before I started decanting, I tried watching videos of how to do it, and there were all these guys out there putting masking tape over paper cups, punching holes in the tape, and decanting just what they needed right then.  A bunch more were cutting the cans open, making all of these elaborate setups to keep from making a mess, and that's when I thought "there HAS to be a better way!"...and then the gears in my head start turning.  I just bought a case of mason jars and started decanting everything, a whole can at a time.  5 to 10 minutes of time investment, for months of trouble-free, weather-independent airbrushing.

 

I'd say 2/3 of a year represents some sort of issue trying to spray model stuff outside here where I live. And no way spray bombs are getting discharged indoors in my house. At one time in my life probably so but my wife is asthmatic, I'm prone to all sorts of head infections etc. Add in small pets,  Not happening, period.

I agree completely on 4-6 times difference in product used at least, between airbrush and the same stuff in spray cans. Especially so on certain types of spray jobs. You cut the flow back on the airbrush and lower pressure to where you barely see a mist at all in some cases, but as you move in to the part you can see it collecting on the piece as you make each pass. 3-4 passes later it's covered, dump the remainder back in your decant jar. Huge difference from blasting the thing with the spray can . With the can 2/3 of what comes out just goes off into the air. They invented airbrushes for a reason.