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Three strikes, you’re out!

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  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Three strikes, you’re out!
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 3:46 PM

Today, fitting this in after a long list of chores, I sit down to prime some parts. I was looking forward to some good AB time. I open a new bottle of primer and after giving it a really good stir with my Badger mixer, I pour a good amount into the paint jar. Hmm... it looks good. 

I go to the booth, attach the jar and fire off some test sprays. Uh oh. Is that splatter I see? It can't be. No way it can be. I look at the tip and the needle is loaded with paint. I wipe it and hit it again. Alas, more splatter. I look at the tip, the same deal. What on earth? I pull the needle and it was a mess. I remove the jar and the port into the AB was loaded. I remove the head and it was a mess. I look into the body of the AB, it was a mess. And when I say a mess, it was a gelatinous mess. I have never seen such a mess and I spent the next half hour cleaning the brush. 

Returning to my bench I start a new batch. I experiment thinning with different batches using lacquer, IPA, and just water. The primer had a good milky viscosity but I could tell something is wrong. The paint had a fragmented appearance on the inner wall of the jar and the mixing stick was coming out clumpy. I did not attempt to spray that lobotomy. 

And you are wondering what brand right? Answer: Stynylrez. I wanted to believe in this product but the product continues to fail me. 

1. My first experience with this stuff was that the solution separated within the bottle, and this was a brand new purchase. After giving the clumpy goo a massive and extensive mix, I was able to use it. Initial tests were encouraging and I settled back into thinking I had received a bad batch.

2. Tired of fighting the reoccurring sludge, I ordered two more bottles, one gray, one white. Well, the gray settled out too, only not as bad as the first. As I continued to use from that bottle I started to have problems with it. I was not getting the nice finish I once got and clogging was on the increase as well.

3. For this project I wanted to use white primer, so I cracked open the new bottle. You already know the outcome from today's experience.

That is three strikes. Stick a fork in me, Stynylrez... you're out! In my opinion this stuff is trash and that is exactly where it's going. I know some of you have good luck with it, and more power to you. Me, I don't have time for this nonsence. 

My kingdom for a good airbrushable primer. It looks like I have to go back to decanting Tamiya. If anyone has good luck with another product, I'd like to hear about it.

THE END

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
Posted by cbaltrin on Sunday, January 9, 2022 4:19 PM

Sorry you are having so much trouble. I only use Mr surfacer and Tamiya primer...

On the Bench: Too Much

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 4:23 PM

At this point, nobody can say you didn't try.  Decanted Tamiya primer is my go-to method as well.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 4:30 PM

Another Stynylrez failure here.   Several different bottles with only an occasional satisfactory result.  Tossed it in the trash and moved on.

I've pretty much given up on any acrylic primers.  IMO if it needs the adhesion of primer, it needs a solvent base.   Mr Fine Surfacer (gray or black) 1500 thinned with SLT or decanted Tamiya if I need white.

No secret techniques, doesn't turn to bubble gum in the airbrush and feathers out as if it's not there when repairs are needed.   

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 4:52 PM

Ditto

I couldn't stand the Badger stuff.For my needs,I'm able to use either Tamiya or Mr Surfacer 1200,but I don't decant.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:03 PM

Thanks guys. I wish I could find a made for airbrushing lacquer based primer that comes in a bottle or jar. Not a fan of the decanting process but if that is my only option, I'll go with it.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:19 PM

Airbrush issues are the worst...  Right after focusing on assembly, seams, careful fitting of parts etc you ruin a model because of stupid paint/airbrush issues.  And then this happens

 

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:33 PM

So far for me Stynylrez has worked fine ( just about 5 years now I think). I can't answer the mystery as to why other have this trouble but if all those tries happened to me I'd do something else as well. I'd probably go with Mr Surfacer and lacquer thinner. Just thinking out loud here. Ya you gotta mix it but I've mixed paints all my life anyway.

I know Styn can't freeze, gotta wonder how the bad batches have shipped etc.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:33 PM

Blackhawk down,  woof.

   You guys have me alittle reluctant to try my Ammo by Mig primer, I like Ammo by Mig paint and have good service on unprimed surfaces however I noticed even dry it is kinda soft. Thought I might try priming first but after reading this???? I understand this is a different brand but hmmmm.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:34 PM

Bakster

Thanks guys. I wish I could find a made for airbrushing lacquer based primer that comes in a bottle or jar. Not a fan of the decanting process but if that is my only option, I'll go with it.

 
Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 is sold in 40ml jars and thinned with their own leveling thinner.  No decanting needed.
  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:41 PM

oldermodelguy
I know Styn can't freeze, gotta wonder how the bad batches have shipped etc.

From my own experience and various internet reviews, the "bad batch" of Stynylrez seems to have spanned several years.  They either distributed a LOT of that bad batch and never recalled it, or they continue to make bad batches on a regular basis.

 

Here's an example of what came out of a brand new, mixed and shaken bottle when poured through a DeVilbiss strainer. 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:47 PM

keavdog

Airbrush issues are the worst...  Right after focusing on assembly, seams, careful fitting of parts etc you ruin a model because of stupid paint/airbrush issues.  And then this happens

 

 

Omg John, you nailed it in more ways than one. So true. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:55 PM

oldermodelguy

So far for me Stynylrez has worked fine ( just about 5 years now I think). I can't answer the mystery as to why other have this trouble but if all those tries happened to me I'd do something else as well. I'd probably go with Mr Surfacer and lacquer thinner. Just thinking out loud here. Ya you gotta mix it but I've mixed paints all my life anyway.

I know Styn can't freeze, gotta wonder how the bad batches have shipped etc.

 

You are who I was thinking of that have had good luck. I think Patrick, Greg, and I recall Morrison seemed to like it. When it worked for me the few times, I liked it, but man, today, this was the last straw. I never saw that coming. I should post a picture of the new gray primer bottle. The stuff is all settled to the bottom. It's about an inch of goo topped by maybe three inches of murky liquid. It's too bad. I wanted it to work.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 5:58 PM

 That is how it looked in my glass jar.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:04 PM

MJY65

 

 
Bakster

Thanks guys. I wish I could find a made for airbrushing lacquer based primer that comes in a bottle or jar. Not a fan of the decanting process but if that is my only option, I'll go with it.

 

 

 
Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 is sold in 40ml jars and thinned with their own leveling thinner.  No decanting needed.
 

Good to know. How do you like this in comparison to Tamiya Surface Primer? Note any differences? Pros and Cons?

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:08 PM

^^^^^

Maybe not QUITE as smooth as decanted FSP, but finer than Tamiya LSP.  Super easy to use, mixes easily, dries in minutes.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:15 PM

armornut

Blackhawk down,  woof.

   You guys have me alittle reluctant to try my Ammo by Mig primer, I like Ammo by Mig paint and have good service on unprimed surfaces however I noticed even dry it is kinda soft. Thought I might try priming first but after reading this???? I understand this is a different brand but hmmmm.

 

First test it on spoons or something. Thank goodness I followed that protocol today. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:20 PM

MJY65

^^^^^

Maybe not QUITE as smooth as decanted FSP, but finer than Tamiya LSP.  Super easy to use, mixes easily, dries in minutes.

 

Maybe I will try it. I think the local Hobbytown stocks it. I will check with them.

Short of that I will decant.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:41 PM

   Most exellent advice Baxter, I will try that first. ThanksYes

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:44 PM

Hey Eaglecash, I think it's time for me to build this thing... Yes

"Well, there is always my method, which gets all of the paint out of the can in the way the can was designed to be emptied.  Its safer and won't make a mess.  Drilling the hole in the mason jar lid and installing the grommet takes less than a minute, and the lid gets used over and over again.  Attaching the straw to the paint nozzle with epoxy involves less than a minute of work.  Spraying all the paint to transfer it to a jar takes about 3 minutes."

https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/189063.aspx

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:56 PM

Bakster
Maybe I will try it. I think the local Hobbytown stocks it. I will check with them. Short of that I will decant.

I used to use the Mr. Surfacer 1500 also.  I thinned mine with MEK and it was pretty much exactly like decanted Tamiya primer when thinned the same way and shot through a #1 needle and cap on my Paasche H.  I went with decanting Tamiya because I have a really efficient, mess free/fume free decanting process and you get quite a bit more primer for the same cost.  I get several months worth of priming every part out of a single can.  Also had problems with the plastic lids on the Mr. Surfacer bottles getting cracked in shipping, which was my only option for getting my hands on it.  Can't get it locally around here.  The Tamiya rattle cans handle the journey better.  Either one will serve you quite well though.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 6:58 PM

Bakster

Hey Eaglecash, I think it's time for me to build this thing... Yes

"Well, there is always my method, which gets all of the paint out of the can in the way the can was designed to be emptied.  Its safer and won't make a mess.  Drilling the hole in the mason jar lid and installing the grommet takes less than a minute, and the lid gets used over and over again.  Attaching the straw to the paint nozzle with epoxy involves less than a minute of work.  Spraying all the paint to transfer it to a jar takes about 3 minutes."

https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/189063.aspx

 

Definitely go for it, Bakster.  The hardest part is gluing the straw to the nozzle, but even that is something like 10 minutes worth of work.  About 15 minutes total of work and you get months out of that one jar.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 7:07 PM

Eaglecash867
I went with decanting Tamiya because I have a really efficient, mess free/fume free decanting process and you get quite a bit more primer for the same cost.

Decanting works very well and is my backup method.  Not sure about the cost, though.  An $11 180ml aerosol of FSP will yield about 75ml of product which can then be thinned 1:1.

The 40ml of Mr Surfacer is $5.49, so pretty much exactly the same when thinned 1:1.

Both primers are great, but MFS saves the decanting step.

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 7:13 PM

MJY65
Decanting works very well and is my backup method.  Not sure about the cost, though.  An $11 180ml aerosol of FSP will yield about 75ml of product which can then be thinned 1:1.

I buy the 100ml cans for about $7.50, and I get at least 75ml out of them.  They fill a 4 ounce mason jar just short of 3/4 of the way full.  Cool

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 7:18 PM

MJY65

 

 
Eaglecash867
I went with decanting Tamiya because I have a really efficient, mess free/fume free decanting process and you get quite a bit more primer for the same cost.

 

Decanting works very well and is my backup method.  Not sure about the cost, though.  An $11 180ml aerosol of FSP will yield about 75ml of product which can then be thinned 1:1.

The 40ml of Mr Surfacer is $5.49, so pretty much exactly the same when thinned 1:1.

Both primers are great, but MFS saves the decanting step.

 

You guys have me thinking. Where are you buying the MFS at 5.49? Scale Hobbiest maybe? Amazon is selling it at the bend over price of $16 and change, for the white.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 7:20 PM

Eaglecash867

 

 
Bakster

Hey Eaglecash, I think it's time for me to build this thing... Yes

"Well, there is always my method, which gets all of the paint out of the can in the way the can was designed to be emptied.  Its safer and won't make a mess.  Drilling the hole in the mason jar lid and installing the grommet takes less than a minute, and the lid gets used over and over again.  Attaching the straw to the paint nozzle with epoxy involves less than a minute of work.  Spraying all the paint to transfer it to a jar takes about 3 minutes."

https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/189063.aspx

 

 

 

Definitely go for it, Bakster.  The hardest part is gluing the straw to the nozzle, but even that is something like 10 minutes worth of work.  About 15 minutes total of work and you get months out of that one jar.

 

Yeah the biggest time suck in this will be going out to buy the jars and grommet. Big deal.  It will get me out of the house.Wink

  • Member since
    February 2021
Posted by MJY65 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 7:23 PM

Bakster
You guys have me thinking. Where are you buying the MFS at 5.49? Scale Hobbiest maybe? Amazon is selling it at the bend over price of $16 and change, for the white.

 

Yes, $5.49 at Scale Hobbiest.  EagleCash is probably also getting FSP for $7.50 there.  At that price, the decanted FSP is slightly cheaper if you don't mind the process.  

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 7:25 PM

Bakster
You guys have me thinking. Where are you buying the MFS at 5.49? Scale Hobbiest maybe? Amazon is selling it at the bend over price of $16 and change, for the white.

SprueBrothers has it for $5.49.  Its the 1200 grey primer, which is what I had actually used in the past...I thought I had used the 1500, but it was the 1200.

Not a big fan of ScaleHobbyist so far.  They kinda drag their feet on getting stuff out the door.  SprueBrothers ships right away.  As far as shipping goes, I always select the cheaper option with SprueBrothers, because the "faster" method doesn't get it to my area any faster.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 9, 2022 8:40 PM

It looks like neither place has 1500 white in stock. So, that leaves Tamiya and I can find that locally. For the long term, I will work on doing Eaglecashes decanting system and for the short term, I'll spray straight from the can. It's not my preferred method, but it should be fine, and it will expedite the project.

Moving forward I will try MFS too. I will see what Hobbytown has. I know that I have seen it there but I don't know what grit. Pretty sure that what they had was a heavier grit.

Thanks for all the help, Guys. You Rock!!!

 

  • Member since
    August 2021
Posted by goldhammer88 on Sunday, January 9, 2022 8:49 PM

Don't know if they carry what you want/need, but take a look at Spraygunner.  Been using them recently, decent prices and usually ships in 24-36 hours.  They bent over backwards to fix an order that I screwed up on,and got it done.

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