Color cups on bottom feed airbrushes?

Yup, The 155-7 kit (comes in a triangle box) actually comes with a 1/4 oz color cup. Actually, a few of the kits come with these. But, you can also buy them seperately. They are at the very bottom of this page.

http://www.badgerairbrush.com/access2.htm 

ditto to montana, they share the same cups too.  i am actually using the one that came from my old kit of 155 on my iwata bcs now... 

*if you are interested i am actually probably gonna put on ebay a mint condition 155 with a set of spare needle/nozzle in an effort to go minimalistic on my airbrush collection.

They do my 150 came with a color cup.But if your like me,make sure it has a lid because you will turn it over at some point and make a mess.

http://bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=110449

This should work on any siphon feed airbrush. 

DHM wrote:

http://bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=110449 This should work on any siphon feed airbrush.

Is that confirmed though?  Because I have looked at Paasche siphon bottles at Pearl Art Store and the tube is smaller in size than the Badger ones.

Ben,

Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close. 

Bill 

You'll need the 15-20 psi to get the siphon to work properly, but the brush is capable of very fine lines. Arguably finer than most people can get out of the 100LG. That's how it gets the detail name!

The PPS is the paint measuring system. The 100LG is a dual action, you control the air by pushing down, and the position of the needle by pulling back. Full back means a wide swath of paint, just a little means a thin line, and so on. The difficulty with a dual action is getting the same thickness each time. Most single action airbrushes you physically move the needle and tighten it into position to vary the line thickness, but it's difficult to match what you've done in the past without constant adjustment. The PPS allows you to dial in the needle position by using a graduated scale that moves the needle back and forth in very small increments. You can read the scale and duplicate the same line in the future, something that requires far more talent than I have with a dual action!

Bgrigg wrote:

Ben, Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close.  Bill

Since you already have a 100 then yea by all means the 200-20 is a lot more precise as far as I heard [only used the 100LG/SG and 155 so i can't give a fair comment].  So Bill, the 200-20 definitely uses 100 series parts sans the needle?  I wanted to get a single action ab and didn't get a good answer for the 200-20 since the picture of the head on dixietart made it look a lot like the 155 and the 200NH that shares 155 parts so I was hesitating.  Can I still use the the crown cap from my two spare heads for the 100?  I tend to be really good at dropping them on the table or catching the airhose with the chair arm.

*I heard 3155 is a 155 with finer needle and float head set assumed to go against iwata's BCS, never seen it in person though.

Bgrigg wrote:

The difficulty with a dual action is getting the same thickness each time. Most single action airbrushes you physically move the needle and tighten it into position to vary the line thickness, but it's difficult to match what you've done in the past without constant adjustment.

Did you try adjusting the little screw in front of the 100LG's lever?  I was surprised my older SG didnt have that feature.  I usually tight it all the way back and count the turns as I loosen it to let the needle go back, but since the needle only goes half way of the full range of the lever, it can only provide some consistency with rather fine lines.

ben1227 wrote:

Thanks everyone. I would be getting  Badger, so I don't think a Paasche cup would fit

Yes, the Paasche metal color cup fits the Badger as well.

Bgrigg wrote:

Ben, Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close.  Bill

Bill,

The crown tip does not make you have to get further away from the surface, the reason for it is to keep the tip from building up paint as bad and that is all. 

With those 4 open areas of the crown it helps to keep paint from building up on the head and therefore less spatter from wet paint on the head assembly.

ben1227 wrote:

PPS sounds cool...I have trouble getting consistent lines of the same thickness. I would opt for color cups with the 200-20, for ease of cleaning. I'll be looking into that. Now, off topic. I'm going to try airbrushing some Tamiya Acrylic flat black: what do you thin it with and how much? What can be used as a retarder so I don't have paint clogging it up like what happened with the MM gray?

I find the color cups more convenient than the bottles. I bought a couple of extra so I could do a quick wash of the AB between colors, and just dump the old into a bath of Windex until I'm finished.

I use the Tamiya brand thinner, and buy the large 250ml bottles. It's basically Isopropyl Alcohol with retarder already added, and I don't have much problem with tip dry. Read MusicCity's article on thinning. I shoot for a 2% milk consistancy, typically around 2 to 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner. Higher air pressure requires thicker paint, lower requires thicker paint. As Scott points out there is no "right" answer.

Liquidtex or Createx make acrylic retarder which also helps. Many people just use Isopropyl and retarder, which would save some money in the long run. I've heard that retarder is basically glycerin, but haven't done any testing. 

MikeV wrote:

Bgrigg wrote: Ben, Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close.  Bill  Bill, The crown tip does not make you have to get further away from the surface, the reason for it is to keep the tip from building up paint as bad and that is all.  With those 4 open areas of the crown it helps to keep paint from building up on the head and therefore less spatter from wet paint on the head assembly.

I find with the "cut-off" regulator on the 200-20, I can touch the needle to the model if I'm not careful. That allows me to get close. Too close, actually! Closer than I can with the crown tip. I realize the crown tip is supposed to reduce build up, my first 150 had the old style regulator with the holes and it clogged up all the time.

ben1227 wrote:

PPS sounds cool...I have trouble getting consistent lines of the same thickness. I would opt for color cups with the 200-20, for ease of cleaning. I'll be looking into that. Now, off topic. I'm going to try airbrushing some Tamiya Acrylic flat black: what do you thin it with and how much? What can be used as a retarder so I don't have paint clogging it up like what happened with the MM gray?

Tamiya's own thinner has a retarder mixed in.  Otherwise I've heard people having success with denatured alcohol.  I thin my paints 3 to 1 paint to thinner for the siphon feed BCS with a medium head, and 1 to 1 for a fine head gravity feed.  I have tried to thin Tamiya paints with water before and the color looks a little lighter after it dries than compared to thinner, maybe it was just the end of life of that bottle of olive drab which has some yellow pigments on the bottom of the bottle.  Water thinned Tamiya paints also dries completely lusterless.

archangel571 wrote:

Bgrigg wrote: Ben, Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close.  Bill  Since you already have a 100 then yea by all means the 200-20 is a lot more precise as far as I heard [only used the 100LG/SG and 155 so i can't give a fair comment].  So Bill, the 200-20 definitely uses 100 series parts sans the needle?  I wanted to get a single action ab and didn't get a good answer for the 200-20 since the picture of the head on dixietart made it look a lot like the 155 and the 200NH that shares 155 parts so I was hesitating.  Can I still use the the crown cap from my two spare heads for the 100?  I tend to be really good at dropping them on the table or catching the airhose with the chair arm. *I heard 3155 is a 155 with finer needle and float head set assumed to go against iwata's BCS, never seen it in person though.

Yes the tip, and head of the 100/150 is the same as the 200SG, G & -20, the needle needs to be longer but is the same size. You can put the detail spray regulator on the 100 and vice versa. Matter of fact, you can attach the 200-20 detail handle to the 100/150 but would need an even longer needle. That would change them to single action, so there would be no point.

I've considered buy the 200G body, and putthing the detail handle on that. I'll have to see if that would work. A gravity fed body and PPS system would be an awesome combo! 

archangel571 wrote:

Bgrigg wrote: The difficulty with a dual action is getting the same thickness each time. Most single action airbrushes you physically move the needle and tighten it into position to vary the line thickness, but it's difficult to match what you've done in the past without constant adjustment. Did you try adjusting the little screw in front of the 100LG's lever?  I was surprised my older SG didnt have that feature.  I usually tight it all the way back and count the turns as I loosen it to let the needle go back, but since the needle only goes half way of the full range of the lever, it can only provide some consistency with rather fine lines.

Yes I have, but the length of the bolt is too short to affect much of the movement. It helps but you still need to learn NOT to pull back too far. The 200-20 is air on/air off, and the needle position is dialed in. It's the perfect KISS system for me! 

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote:  Bgrigg wrote: Ben, Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close.  Bill  Bill, The crown tip does not make you have to get further away from the surface, the reason for it is to keep the tip from building up paint as bad and that is all.  With those 4 open areas of the crown it helps to keep paint from building up on the head and therefore less spatter from wet paint on the head assembly. I find with the "cut-off" regulator on the 200-20, I can touch the needle to the model if I'm not careful. That allows me to get close. Too close, actually! Closer than I can with the crown tip. I realize the crown tip is supposed to reduce build up, my first 150 had the old style regulator with the holes and it clogged up all the time.

I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here.

I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try.

MikeV wrote:

[ I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here. I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try.

What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya! 

You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though! 

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote: [ I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here. I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try. What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!

To tell you the truth I have never, ever used a single-action airbrush in my life my friend.

I learned to airbrush with a Paasche VL double action airbrush and have used only double action airbrushed since then. I think it's time I tried a single-action airbrush so I can actually see what you all are talking about.

ben1227 wrote:

Thanks everyone. I would be getting  Badger, so I don't think a Paasche cup would fit

I've used badger cups in a passche, and it worked fine, I would think it work the other way around.  There is a badger cup if you want to play it safe but it's more expensive. 

DHM wrote:

ben1227 wrote: Thanks everyone. I would be getting  Badger, so I don't think a Paasche cup would fit   I've used badger cups in a passche, and it worked fine, I would think it work the other way around.  There is a badger cup if you want to play it safe but it's more expensive.

Alrite, maybe it was just me then.  The paasche siphon bottle I looked at was in this cone shape and had a white paint metal cap and metal tip at Pearl.  Maybe I will bring my airbrush in next time as their airbrush stuff are all non-returnable.

archangel571 wrote:

*I heard 3155 is a 155 with finer needle and float head set assumed to go against iwata's BCS, never seen it in person though.

You're absolutely right. The 3155 is in the Badger catalogue, but not on their website. It's the Anthem with the finer head option. I'm sure that it's a fine airbrush, but I'll stick to my 100/150/200 series tried and true ABs! 

It's on the website.  Look under new products.  HTH.

E

H3nav wrote:

It's on the website.  Look under new products.  HTH.   E

LOL! I've never even bothered to look there! It even took me while to find the link for it! Thanks for pointing that out. I wonder why websites do that? I mean, I can see why you would have a "new products" page, but why not update both pages? 

I think it's time for a 200-20 ...Off to Bear Air!   ...Bill, I don't have any Tamiya X-20A acryl thinner on hand. Would distilled water work? I only have X-20 lacquer thinner in the 250ml jug. Would using Windex to thin Tamiya paints be more likey to cause tip dry than just using distilled water? I don't want another model master gray incident and have to soak it in lacquer thinner again.

Also, on the inside of the 100LG color cup, it's like paint and thinner has eaten away the chrome covering. I can feel a ridge inside the cup. Down in the bottom  part of the cup, the chrome is gone and there's gold/brass color showing.