Color cups on bottom feed airbrushes?

If you have any isopropyl alcohol, thin it with that.  Tamiya paints don't like water very much.  I suggest buying some of their thinner, it has always worked well for me. 

Ok, but I've had BAD problems with tip dry. Alcohol evaporates quickly, would that accelerat tip dry? Does windex work ok?

It will probably work but remember that Windew is mostly just isopropyl alcahol with a bit of ammonia and blue color so I don't think it will be any btter, and it may actually be worse.  I haven't tried this and I'm not a chemist so I can't say for sure but you can try it. 

Distilled water won't work, at least not with Tamiya. If you're going to Bear Air get some Createx Retarder (P/N 840043 $4 for 4oz), use Isopropyl Alcohol to thin with and add a DROP to the color cup. 4oz will last a LONG time. If you bought Regdab or Meadea Super Lube, you can smear some on the color cup and the front 1/3 of the needle. This helps with cleanup and also with tip dry.

The 200-20 has a cut off regulator, and so doesn't allow build up of paint that will dry in place. Tip dry will likely be a thing of the past if you follow the instructions above. I know I never have problems with it. 

I don't know what's eaten off the finish on the Badger? It probably won't affect the performance of the brush, but send an email to Badger and confirm (info at badgerairbrush dot com). This is why I use acrylics only, clean up is a cinch with Windex, and no harm to the airbrush.

Windex will eat the finish off of an airbrush if you soak it / expose it for a length of time.

 

E

Really? I knew the ammonia can stain the chrome finish black, which is why my last cleaning is with a distilled water rinse, but I never knew it would attack the finish like that. I dump used color cups in a Windex bath until I'm done for the day. They've been in there overnight before without any problems.

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote: [ I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here. I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try. What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!

I have a new 200-20 coming next week for me to evaluate.

Is that a life long evaluation?

I'm interested in hearing your report, specifically comparing it to the venerable 100LG. I'm finding it easier to get consistant fine lines with the 200-20. I am using medium heads/needles in both. If I had been cleverer I would have ordered a fine needle for the 200-20 when I ordered mine, as I already have the head assembly. 

Bill, you can get consistent fine lines with the 100 or 150 by using the needle adjust knob that is forward of the trigger.  It basically presets the needle for line width and paint weight the same as you would on the 200, only from a different direction.  It is simpler and cheaper to do this vs. the Iwata preset handle method which limits needle travel for line limiting. The 200-20 is basically the old style 200 with an enlarged trigger housing to accomodate the trigger from the Omni/Vega line.  The PPS, although very nice, is just an adaptation of the needle adjuster that was on the back of the 200.  It's metered to take out the guess work of the line width, i.e., no more test shooting to verify the line.  The actual needle is the same time tested one that I started with almost 30 years ago.  It's the same "calibre" of the one from the 100/150 IL series except that it's elongated to accomodate the total length of the 200 ( hence single action ).  The original 200 should not be confused with the 200NH which uses the Anthem needle.  The total breakdown of the Badger family is quite interesting from a marketing point of view.  They cover the total spectrum quite well with brushes that overlap capabilities depending on personal tastes and genres. Iwata, on the other hand, concentrates the majority, although not all, of it's brushes to a specific market looking for that style of brush. Case in point, there's no Iwata external mix brush nor is there an equivalent to the Badger 250 Basic Sprayer.  HTH.

Thanks for the information, it is kind of you to offer, but I am aware of all that. I know full well what the screw forward of the trigger is for, but I DO find it easier to dial in the line thickness and mash down the trigger on the 200-20. The preset helps only in making sure your line gets no thinner, but there isn't a stop on the aft end to prevent me front making the line too wide.

I'm quite the Badger nut, and am familiar with the majority of their products, their differences and especially their similarities. I currently am the proud owner of a 100LG, 150 and the aforementioned 200-20, along with a fine, medium and coarse head assembly and their attendant needles. I ordered spares of the 200 needle in medium, but didn't get fine one. Silly mistake, since I can easily convert the 200 to a fine head using the extra pieces I have. The PPS is very nice, and I find it simpler to remember to set it to 1.5 than it is to remember 1 2/3 turns.

If Badger would make a needle with an additional 3/8" length, I could attach the PPS handle to the 100LG and use is like a large cup single action!

I wasn't aware that they are using the trigger from the Omni/Vega line. In appearance it looks similar to the ones on the 100/150.

Funny, I thought about doing the same thing with the PPS conversion on my old style 200.  However, the price of the handle and the adjustment knob make it just as cost effective to buy the whole brush from Bearair or Dixie.  Go ahead and get the fine needles, as you know, the ergonomics of the 200 make it a joy to use.  I actually prefer the feel of the 200 over the 100lg or 150.  What's even greater about this brush is that you've talked MikeV into getting one!

 

E

Bgrigg wrote:

Is that a life long evaluation?

Why yes it is.

H3nav wrote:

What's even greater about this brush is that you've talked MikeV into getting one!

No, I am just curious to try a well made single-action airbrush.

 

LOL I don't think I talked him into it, but he did realize that he has an odd number of airbrushes (which puts the world off balance) and lacked a single action. I'll be eagerly awaiting his review!

Bgrigg wrote:

LOL I don't think I talked him into it, but he did realize that he has an odd number of airbrushes (which puts the world off balance) and lacked a single action. I'll be eagerly awaiting his review!

IMHO, the Badger 200, all things being condidered, is the best single action brush out there.  My second choice would be the Paasche H.

 

E

H3nav wrote:

IMHO, the Badger 200, all things being condidered, is the best single action brush out there.  My second choice would be the Paasche H.   E

Thanks for the input H3nav, I am looking forward to trying it out.

 

 

Bgrigg wrote:

What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!

I do now, the UPS man just came.

MikeV wrote:

Bgrigg wrote: What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!  I do now, the UPS man just came.

So, squirted anything with it yet?

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote:  Bgrigg wrote: What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!  I do now, the UPS man just came. So, squirted anything with it yet?

Not yet, been busy today with "honey-do's"