Exam Gloves

you cant feel anything when you have them on. Holding a model during painting is one thing, gluing small parts would be a problem. I always clean the model with alcohol before painting anyway.

Bill

wjbwjb29,

    For painting prep I generally follow the manufacturer's recommendation of washing the pieces in warm soapy water and allowing them to dry.

I wash in soap and water when I start a kit but there after I use the alcohol because it drys faster than water and then its ready to paint. You can even speed dry it with the airbrush.

Bill

I've been using nitrile gloves lately for spraying and when handling nasty solvents.

I tried them a couple times for gluing, ended up with same conclusion as Bill, couldn't feel anything, didn't work.

I've tried tight-fitting surgical gloves too. Better, but still don't like the lack of 'feel'. Wonder how long it takes surgeons to get used to them? They so some fairly delicate work, too. :)

I wash my hands with Windex before starting.

I was planning to buy a case of disposable gloves for airbrushing. It seems like a cheap way of keeping overspray off my skin.

Bill,

    Thank you for the clairification.  Right now do to cost, space, and pets (one Cockatiel and one Tarantula that would NOT react well) I do not currently own an airbrush.

Greg,

    I'm wondering if a thin pair of cotton gloves, like what people who handle old documents wear would work for gluing or not?

Marcus,

    To what end?  To remove body oils?

Rob,

    That was my first thought.  Wear exam gloves of some sort while either brush painting or airbrushing to keep one's hands clean.  Making personal cleanup that much easier.

I have used them while putting the finishing touches on models painted white to keep off smudges.

I find two types of disposable gloves in my local hardware store.  First are the latex stretchy ones we have been talking about.  The second are referred to as painters gloves, just two sheets of plastic film sealed around the edges.  They fit much more awkwardly than the stretchy latex type, and are terrible for doing any thing but holding a model or part while you are spray painting it.  But- they are cheaper than the first kind, so I occasionally buy a box of them.  I keep both types on my supply shelves.

I have a couple pair of cotton gloves that I do on occasion use for delicate handling situations, yes.

(I also used them for handling my more cherished HO locos :) )

But for me, again, not for anything requiring any 'feel'.

I like Don's idea above re the very cheap painters gloves for spray painting. Might give that a try.

I use the latex exam gloves that are used in doctor's offices.  You can find them from several sources.  The "heavier" grade cleaning type are not worth it IMO as you do lose the feel.  The thinner surgical grade ones are really good.  Of course if you are allergic to latex then you would not want them.

John

Mits Dude,

    Knowing from what I've read about how difficult it is to apparently lay down white paint, that makes a lot of sense.

Don,

    Those almost sound like the type of gloves that food prep workers wear nowadays.  More than once I've had to laugh when I see someone attempting to make a sandwich while wearing a pair of "oversized" gloves.

Pilot John,

    I'd have to agree with you that the heavier grade gloves wouldn't be too useful to us.  And I also agree that the thinner surgical gloves would, because of the delicate work of doctors/surgens would be the better option.  Think of the work a doctor/surgen is doing when they operate.

    Although, I can tell you from experience as a Medic in The U.S. Army that neither exam or surgical gloves can be easy to put on.  And that they do take a little bit of practice to do so.

Painting only.

I think washing parts is an old tale that really doesn't do any good.

I just wipe with alcohol before painting.

Those white cotton gloves are standard equipment for people who work in museums. A competent curator or conservator instinctively puts on a pair before touching an artifact, to avoid fingerprints.

For model work I find them more of a hindrance than a help. In addition to the aforementioned lack of "feel," the rather gauzy texture of the glove fabric snags on details. When I was working in a museum, my boss and I had a discussion about whether the curatorial assistant and I ought to wear gloves when we worked on old models. I talked him out of it. (He was, in most respects, a reasonable man.

Nowadays I keep a package of pre-moistened baby wipes on my bench to keep my hands clean. Be warned: never use a baby wipe to wipe up a CA adhesive spill! I almost sent myself to the emergency room that way once.

My wife is seriously allergic to latex, so I can't even have them in the house, the smell alone bothers her. I swear, she has the same level of olfactory senses as my Lab.

I use the plastic ones for painting though.

jtilley,

    Okay, I can see that.

    As both Pilot John, and I said, I think that the surgical gloves being somewhat thinner based on the sensitivity needed by a surgen who no one can argue is less important then our buidling a model.  Thus requiring them to be able to depend more on their sense of touch then we do.

    Was it because of a chemical reaction between the two, or your almost gluing yourself to your work surface?

MC,

    Yeah, in your situation I can see there being a major problem.

l believe the surgical type gloves are a must when using something like Purple Power to remove old paint. From what I've read that stuff dissolves fatty tissue in your hands and fingers. Its what makes your hands feel kinda slippery/ greasy when you get the liquid on you.

I only use surgical gloves for painting and handling a model after painting. The cost is next to nothing 7p (about 10c) a glove and I probably save that in cleaning costs for my hands.

If you search you can get latex free gloves, I have an ex with the allergy too so I automatically pick them.

Phil

Digital_Cowboy

Don,

    Those almost sound like the type of gloves that food prep workers wear nowadays.  More than once I've had to laugh when I see someone attempting to make a sandwich while wearing a pair of "oversized" gloves.

Yep, same thing.  Hardware store sells them as painter's gloves.

My mom's brother was an old-time paint contractor; he taught me the trade.  He started painting in 1935.  To keep his hands clean, Uncle Elzy always used those cheap brown "jersey" knit gloves.

mitsdude,

    I've never used Purple Power so I don't have a frame of reference for what it does or doesn't feel like on the skin.  But if it's as powerful as people have reported it to be, it wouldn't surprise me if it reacts the way that you descripe.

I removed the chrome plating from a Tamiya MiG-15 kit with Simple Green, a similar product I'd guess.  I used no gloves and scrubbed it with an old toothbrush.  I noticed no issues with my old skin.  Ymmv...

Gary

Gary,

    I'll have to give Simple Green a try.  Fortunately "knock on wood" I usually do not have a problem with contact dermatitis.  So I would think that I shouldn't have a problem with Simple Green either.

    Can it be used to remove just a little bit of the chrome, i.e. from the gluing surface alone, or is it an all or nothing process?