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Looking good Joe... Putting on a decal like that one is a TON of work.
Doug
When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...
Make Lemonade!
Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...
Wow, looks great!
Well it didn't take me but a short nights rest to get up this morning at 3 a.m. (with a little help from my dog Scooter!!!) and start the process of getting the snake motifs on the bird. After alot of frustration and patience I got the left side on. I aint no professional critic but I don't feel that I need to be to tell you that you'd better have these Tally Ho decals applied in the direct vicinity of where you want em because after they are on, they are hell to move around. The good thing is , and this overshadows the moving around issue, that these cals take to Micro sol like a hand in a glove! They literally become part of the paint! The snakes come in two pieces. One piece goes from the nose to the front of the white band and the other from the rear of the white band to the rear of the fuselage. The only problem I REALLY had was that the decal was too short to make it all the way to the band ( I had painted these bands in anticipation for applying the Cutting Edge decals). I stepped out on a lmb and cut a section out of the Cutting Edge decal and applied it to the tail end of the leading snake decal to make it all the way to the white band. Thankfully the Cutting Edge snake section (which was about a 1/4" in length) didn't come apart and after about 10 coats of Micro-sol, sucked down to the detail. Then it was off to the cross and radio identifier decals. Anyways , I have the left side done as far as the motif is concerned. I'll turn my attention to the right side next.
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Got 'em in the mail about 4 hours ago.....................
Glad to hear you have it sorted Tom, look forward to the ;pics.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
OK, it must have been that gray I lightened it with. I just resprayed it with XF-27 with a little white to lighten it and it looks good.
I'll post a pic or two when I get a little time.
On the XF-27, I had mixed in a little white and a little neutral gray to lighten it. That may have turned it brown (it doesn't seem like it should have). I also sprayed a little without lightening it and it seem to go on brown, but now that it'd dry it seems green, but very dark.
Tom, for the prop blades, yes it should be 70. All wooden props were painted that while metal ones were 71. As for the spinner, I know some colour plates, such as the Osprey books, show it what appears to be black. But they should be 70 as well.
As for the XF 27, not sure on that, I have some new bottles and they are definably still dark green. Sounds to me like a faulty batch.
Hey Tom, yes RLM70 is the darker green and its used alot as a prop color on Luftwaffe stuff. There are a few that are painted a darker color but from what I've seen 70 is the most widely used on prop blades. RLM 71 is almost like an olive color. Hope this helps you out.
OK, I'm a little confused on the splinter pattern colors. I'm sure you guys can set me straight.
RLM70 & 71. I think the 70 is the darker color. Correct? A few pages back someone asked about the prop and spinner color, I think Bish said it should be 70. From the Monogram instructions and other places it seems the prop is the darker color. Bish, was that a typo or do I have the colors backwards?
Also, I mostly use acrylics. What's a good paint for the darker color? In my original build, I used Tamiya XF-27, which looked great to my eye. I bought a new bottle and applied it; it's brown!.. At least it looks brown to me. I still have my old bottle of XF-27 from 30 years ago and it's green. I hesitate to use it since it's so old.
But I hate the look of the brown. Any recommendations?
Should have the snake motif decals here today. Wooo hoooo!! I finished doing all the decals that I could do minus those around where the motif decals are going to be. I'll save all of those for after the motif's are applied. Got some 71 on the elevator tops and have the 76 ( I know it's supposed to be 65 but I've already gone too far to go back. lol ) on the bottoms of the elevators.
Yes, I couldn't quite remember when I wrote that if they were all the same kit.
Ye, I have the RoG one but with some AM decals not the kit ones. Its one of two options I have for a 2nd entry to the GB, the other being a Fujimi D-3.
The Italeri/ROG/Tamiya ones do for sure since they are the same. I'm sure I will locate one in short time whether it is just the part or a whole kit.
Is the one you have the Revell of Germany kit?
On Ed's bench, ???
68, that's a good question. I would say not. Having the sand filter would not be a problem in a less dusty climate, I have see an R-4, that's a purpose built trop Stuka, being used in Finland. To be honest, if a whole unit was moved from one front to a complete different one, rather that retreating, I think it would make sense to leave your aircraft there, either with a replacement unit or handed over to another one there who would probably need replacements anyway, and then get new aircraft on route, that would be a lot easier.
The only 72nd B kit with the Trop filter that I know of is the Revell kit, unfortunately I can't send you mine as I am doing a Trop with that, T6+CD with the snake motif.
I might have to switch units and theaters till I can get my hands on a trop filter but that's okay since I have a bunch of these Fujimi B/Rs in the pile.
One thing I was wondering was, did the Trop filter get swapped out when the aircraft moved to other locations if they did?
Great work guys, nice to all these coming together. 68, look forward to seeing yours under way.
I have now finished the Do 335 and just have the Pz III to do. But I will give it one week and then make a start on the A-2, even if its only bits while I finish the Panzer.
Ahhh yes Joe... hurry up and wait... been there ...done that...
Take care...
These are coming along real nice! I have to get started this weekend on one.
Well folks while I'm waiting on my "snakes" I started putting on other decals. Crosses, swastikas and bottom side stencils.............
Just waiting on the snakes.................
Zvezda I like the looks of that Italeri kit. Good detail for OOB
John that thing is looking good and you're coming along on it nicely.
well I got some more paint on the Stuka, can't wait to get decals in it and start to dirty it up. looking at that clean light blue bottom is kinda like looking at the sun, can't wait to weather it up!
John
On the Bench: 1/72 Ki-67, 1/48 T-38
1/144 AC-130, 1/72 AV-8A Harrier
Awesome link, thanks Bish!
On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk
Bob, the SC 50 would be dark grey or green. I am not sure why as most external bombs were painted light blue.
I find this site a great source for info on German ordinance.
www.warbirdsresourcegroup.org/.../bombs.html
For what it's worth based on the stuff I've seen I'd be leaning toward the grey. They would blend in with undersurface colour better if for no other reason. Hard to be definitive on this as much munitions came from many different sources more so as the war dragged on and uniformity wasn't so important That's how I've addressed this problem in the past, of course I could be totally wrong but it works for me!
"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time".
The two decals I used went on perfectly, which surprised me. I haven't seen any silvering yet either, so I think I lucked out. I've also started putting the ordnance together, and I have a question. I'm using some Hasegawa bombs for the SC50s on the wings because my Revell kit is missing a few parts. The Revell instructions say the bombs should be painted dark grey, while the Hasegawa instructions say to paint them dark green. Which color is right?
Looks pretty good to me Zvezda. I usually have the problem that I'm not able to build when I really want to.
Some nice work there. I think we all go through modelling slumps now and again, and they often come at just the worst time.
I should post something I think.
Modelling spirits are not high lately, so this is the little progress made lately.
Cockpit was built out of the box, I had no real courage to deal with it beyond that and to be honest the result is rather average.
After the first dry test-fit, I realized the cockpit tub walls
1. Left a small gap with the fuselage interiors
2. Stand out a millimeter or two if positioned by the existing rulers. Decision was made (without much further thought) to
A. Cut the front ruler's lower half (see photo, hatched section was cut out)
B. Weld the cockpit sides to the fuselage interior and then adjust the rest of the cockpit components (hoping everything will line-up).
I also lost the gunsight (replaced with clear plastic) and the gunner's P.E back resting strip (he will shoot me for this)
Friendly regards to all
Bob & John, very nice paint-works on your Stukas, you make that splinter camo stand out great!
Tom68 I always put antennas, pitots, guns, landing gear, anything small and spindly on last. One of my best talents is breaking those things off.
I always put antennas, pitots, guns, landing gear, anything small and spindly on last. One of my best talents is breaking those things off.
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