Ju 87 Stuka GB

I always put antennas, pitots, guns, landing gear, anything small and spindly on last.  One of my best talents is breaking those things off.

Sometimes it requires some "engineering" to make that possible.  With my Monogram Stuka, I put some plastic stock on the inside of the wings so I can guide the guns and pitot in at the end.

John... LOL... I hear ya brother! I usually have to reglue those little %$@&*s atleast two to three times if I can find them! The one I detest though is that  %@&!%& pitot tube! It is absolutely the LAST part I put on! LOL...

Doug

Joe... Had that trouble in the past and nothing is more frustrating then decals that crumble... specially when its all you have to work with or its the exact markings you need! Little hint on the micro sol... it works very well on some types of decal, but if not... try an application of "micro-set" (the blue bottle.) It seems to handle difficult decals a bit better. One thing though... try to wash and dry off excess that gets on paint right away as it has a tendency to leave white marks like water spots on some paints if left to dry.

Looking forward to seeing more progress pics! Take care...

Doug

Well I started putting decals on yesterday starting witht the crosses on the upper wings and boy was I in for a surprise. Not only did the decals start crumbling but no matter how much Micro-sol I put on the decal , it refused to suck down to the detail at all. I installed a Revell cross on the opposing wing and it worked out beautifully. The decals were Cutting Edge decals but they were also about 12 years old. I ordered a replacement set from Tally Ho yesterday so that should be here within the week. Till then I'll be painting the elevators and wheel spats.

falconmod

Bish,

  Thanks for the confirmation.  It's a curse to be OCD sometimes.    drives me nuts when I can't get the right color!  

John

Tel me about it. I spent years trying to get the exact markings and work out the right colours for 4 of Rudels aircraft. Just as I got everything together, I stopped modelling. When I got back into it, I found new info that some of what I thought was wrong. Finally, 15 years or so after I decided to do the project I am now ready to build it. But now I don't have the space.

And I know what you mean about those balances. When I did the 72nd G-1 last year, I had to scratchbuild 2 of them after knocking off the kit parts and losing them.

Another lesson learnt.

Rigidrider

By the by... John, I like the clean sharp splinter... the pattern is well proportioned too. Nice work!

Doug

It was a lot of cutting small strips of masking tape and the painting guide helps a lot.

but I can't wait until I can start dirtying it up and chipping the hand holds and cowel  edges and adding exhaust stains, that's where the fun begins.

For anyone else doing the Revell ju87 don't put on the mass balances on the underside of the ailerons until after you paint, I broke off 3 out of the 4 of them cuz I forgot they were under there.

John

By the by... John, I like the clean sharp splinter... the pattern is well proportioned too. Nice work!

Doug

Bish,

  Thanks for the confirmation.  It's a curse to be OCD sometimes.    drives me nuts when I can't get the right color!  

John

John, yes, the colour of the front of the spinner should match the colour in the letters. However, it should be the A that's coloured not the D. And it should be green not blue lol. Superscale makes the same error with Rudels B-2 from 1943 in regards to the colour. So indeed, both the front of the spinner and the letter A should be green to be accurate.

Tom... (lol) I'll do the best I can... lol... have some progress but dont have pics up loaded yet. I will soon.

Take care my friend,

Doug

Bish,

  Ok so the props and lower portion of the spinner are the dark/black green.  but the box art and the instructions show the tip of the spinner as a green.  there are green letter A's that go on the front of the wheel pants that are sort of green, do I assume I need to match that green  and I think the D in the tail code is also green

I know the picture looks a little blueish but it says green.  Ugh! 

John

Thanks Bish!

John, looking good, nice to see some colour. The spinner should be 71 and same goes for the props.

silentbob33

Last update for the weekend, I have the national insignias painted on.  I'll be saving time with decals since mostly likely all the stencils would have been painted over as well.  I'll just put one of the markings on the fuselage behind the insignia and hope that will work since the decals in the kit are probably older than I am.  I also painted the canopy and started working on the exhaust shrouds.

Really nice there bob, I do like how those markings look.

Hey John. The camo pattern came out great!!!

Do they call out for the spinner to be the same color as anything on the upper fuselage?  The decals I have call out one bird 35+G112 to have a RLM 71 spinner but no mention of the color on the other stukas.

Great paintjob John, nice crisp lines.

Rigidrider,

I know what you're up to.  That's planes on my to do list.  Sometime in the future when I feel up to it.

Don't worry, I won't give your secret away.  But I look forward to seeing pics!

Well I guess my Stuka looks like every other Stuka.  ButI got time to get paint on it this weekend  Woo Hoo!

Decal and weathering here I come,  I do still have the yellow to put on the fuselage and the underside of the wing tips.

An other question in the instructions for theis revell 87d it says to paint the front part of the spinner green, anyone have a idea what green it is?  the props and the back half of the spinner I believe are RLM 70?  or is it Tamiya black green.

Thanks

John

Thanks Joe!

That paint looks great Jim!

Thanks Doug!  I set them in a window for a few days, and it did help with the weathering.  But they still look dirty and I just have a feeling they'll shatter when I try to put them on.  But just in case, I scanned them into my computer so I can print new ones if I need to.

Nice Bob... As to decals... I've found that if they are just old and yellowed, placing them in a sunny window for a few days will bleach them back to usable, but alot of times they grow brittle and are extremely fragile to handle... I like your painted on markings. I try to paint everything I can and use dry transfers as often as possible. Yours is looking good!

Doug

Last update for the weekend, I have the national insignias painted on.  I'll be saving time with decals since mostly likely all the stencils would have been painted over as well.  I'll just put one of the markings on the fuselage behind the insignia and hope that will work since the decals in the kit are probably older than I am.  I also painted the canopy and started working on the exhaust shrouds.

Always handy to check if your not sure bob.

Thanks for the info.  It makes sense to me that they would have been opened up, but I wanted to make sure before I started surgery on the pieces.

Damn, the MPM kit has it right. The SH kit has the same rudder on both its kits, but the A-1 is less rounded off that the later versions, that one looks spot on. Thanks 68.

Bob, looking good there. Gary is spot on, they were open both ends, I assume to allow air flow to stop it getting to hot and possibly glowing in the dark.

Bob,

The exhaust shrouds seem to have been open on both ends, at least by looking at photos on page 52 of Squadron's "JU-87 Stuka In Action".  Someone else may confirm this.

Gary

Lots of great work going on!  I have the painting done for my night Stuka.  I didn't foresee how difficult some of the masking would be, especially with some of the smaller bits in place.  Something for me to keep in mind for the next time.  Anyways, I'm pretty pleased with the paint job, just a little bit to touch up here and there.

Does anyone know if the exhaust shrouds on the night planes were hollowed out on the ends?  I can't seem to find any good pictures, and the kit parts are solid on the ends.

Sure and the Fujimi kit does not include a trop filter so I'll have to work on that.