Aussie Modellers

QUOTE: Originally posted by South Aussie QUOTE: Originally posted by tweety1 Finally I get some time off work. Been hell last 2 days!! j.s., so far things are looking ok for the Darwin trip, and there will be 2 memory cards loaded with pics, might try and get tricky and make a panoramic view. Enjoy your break tweety1, Im enjoying mine. If you want to take a photo of the B52 in Darwin I would learn to take that panoramic view.

Panoramic and then some!

From what I have been told by the guy up there, you can actually have a good sticky beak at one of the nacelles.

All the items there are on my list of to do's, providing I get the time off from playing.

QUOTE: Originally posted by tweety1 Finally I get some time off work. Been hell last 2 days!! j.s., so far things are looking ok for the Darwin trip, and there will be 2 memory cards loaded with pics, might try and get tricky and make a panoramic view.

Enjoy your break tweety1, Im enjoying mine. If you want to take a photo of the B52 in Darwin I would learn to take that panoramic view.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount Many thanks for your advice Tweety1. I will see what I can dig up at my local paint store. I know the consistency of the paint should be similar to milk but what ratio of distilled water, prep vinyl and paint do you use for say a Tamiya acrylic? Sorry to bug you all with these questions but I sincerely appreciated everyone's help. Many thanks, Bob

No problem at all Bob.
The water and iso are made at a 70% iso/30% water ratio. This mix is now my thinner.
It costs less than the Tamiya x20A, for the price of iso and water, it makes the equivalent of 8 x20A bottles roughly, and it dries slower.

Then this is mixed at any ratio you like with the paint.

All depends on how your airbrush likes it's drink really.

Mine usually likes a 40/60 paint /thinner ratio, (when the brush works) but yours could be different.

All my measurements are made with a glass pippet, courtesy of my 8 month olds Panadol bottle. (after it's empty of course)

After my paint and thinner is ready for the brush, I usually add 3 drops of the retarder.
At one time during testing I added 6 drops of retarder, and it took the paint 2 1/2 hours to dry. Too long for an acrylic.

After I'm done spraying, I flush with pure Iso, and thats it.

I only strip my brush down after every 6th session, cause the alcohol really cleans it out thouroughly.

Then a little Super Lube on the needle, and off to painting again!!!!

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount G'day Luke, thanks for the additional info. I served on HMAS Perth for nearly three years so I am particularly keen on the CF Adams class though I wouldn't mind building an FFG either. Someone produced what I believe is a 1/700 kit of one of the FFG's that is still available cheap but I am reluctant to give that a go. Hopefully your representations to the Revell AG won't fall on deaf ears!!! I would appreciate it if you keep me posted if you hear anything. By the way Luke, I notice the anchor in your signature are you Navy or ex Navy? Bob

Dragon produces a 700th HMAS Sydney 'Adel. Class' FFG, which is actually very nice. So if you like 700th ships, go for it. Me, personally, I do 350th or very close (eg Monograms Boxscales of 1/310 to 1/400) but 99% of my ships are plastic 350th. I dont do resin; I dont know why, but I dont like the cost . There's a RAN FFG by LEE in 1/300 scale - dont buy this model cos it's crap.

If your a salt-dog, as I know you are, check out www.modelwarships.com & http://steelnavy.com which are the 2 biggest internet naval modelling sites with model gallery's, walk-arounds, reviews, references, and forums (of which you'll find me there as luke - surprise surprise ). Some Ex-RAN-Navy & RAN enthusiasts wander around there. Also, a few guys have done conversions to Perth Class HMAS Hobart using the WE Model.

The anchor is to do with FSM actually. You may have seen guys with Group Build badges, well there are badges which show others which forum's you visit the most. If you visit the Ship Fourm the most you use the anchor; the Aircraft fourm use planes that are blowing up armour; etc. Only Sci-Fi, A/C, Armour & Ship forums have their own badges.

Me, . . . I'm not in the Navy . More of an Army fan myself (kinda ironic). My Uncles were in the Army, and I have done army cadets all throughout skool. I'm 23 and a Physiotherapist by profession. But my favourite modelling subjects are ships - carriers, subs (esp uboats), BB's, and anything that floats. I must admitt the only naval ship I've seen in real life was the Oberon Sub at the Fremantle Martime Museum. This is coming from a guy who lives in & around Perth - home of HMAS Stirling ; and home to many ship building companies (but that's another story for another post). My Uncle bought me a model battleship for my 12th Birthday, and I was totally hooked. He's got a lot of explaining to do . Anyway, that's me!

G'day Luke, thanks for the additional info. I served on HMAS Perth for nearly three years so I am particularly keen on the CF Adams class though I wouldn't mind building an FFG either. Someone produced what I believe is a 1/700 kit of one of the FFG's that is still available cheap but I am reluctant to give that a go. Hopefully your representations to the Revell AG won't fall on deaf ears!!! I would appreciate it if you keep me posted if you hear anything. By the way Luke, I notice the anchor in your signature are you Navy or ex Navy?

Many thanks for your advice Tweety1. I will see what I can dig up at my local paint store. I know the consistency of the paint should be similar to milk but what ratio of distilled water, prep vinyl and paint do you use for say a Tamiya acrylic?

Sorry to bug you all with these questions but I sincerely appreciated everyone's help.

Many thanks,

Bob

Finally I get some time off work.
Been hell last 2 days!!

j.s., so far things are looking ok for the Darwin trip, and there will be 2 memory cards loaded with pics, might try and get tricky and make a panoramic view.

And I noticed some airbrush queries here, from Bob.

May be useless info, but here in Oz we don't have the sort of stuff these Americans can get their mits on.

So after the continual messing around with my Omni 4000, this is what I have found that compares to all their stuff.

For rinsing out my airbrush, I use Isopropyl Alcohol, and the best stuff is called Viponds Prep Vinyl.
Comes in a 1 litre container, and dilutes into distilled water for a really decent thinning agent.
I also use it to rinse out my airbrush, and it works just fine with both Tamiya and Gunze acrylics.

And if the acrylic is drying a little to fast for your liking, Viponds Taut Flex is the acrylic Retarder that works an absolute charm.
This also dilutes into distilled water, and Iso/Prep Vinyl.

Basically, my paint mix consists of,
Distilled water
Prep Vinyl
Retarder
and of course, Paint.

With the retarder, I add 3 or 4 drops, and this gives the paint a drying time of around 20 minutes at room temp.

All up, the Prep Vinyl and retarder will cost about $20, and lasts close to forever, and is available at any paint store.

Just my 2 cents

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount Luke, had a bit more of a squizz around and found a Charles F Adams DDG Class 1/350 (same as HMAS Perth) at White Ensign in resin. Looks pretty impressive but the cost is around AU$300 plus postage. My budget doesn't stretch that far yet but maybe one day!!! We can all dream can't we.

Yeah - only Cold-War era ships like OH.Perry's & CF.Adams are produced in resin, by Blue Water Navy & White Ensign respectively. OzMods are producing HMAS Sydney, Melb & Veg aircraft carriers, and also has a 1/350 Vampire/Veg (i forget which one), but are in resin.

there actually is no plastic-injected cold-war ships that fit our needs yet, but Revell AG recently had a survey, and heaps of us salt-dogs from Modelwarships.com raided the survey and flooded it with cold-war era ships. I know for a fact that a plastic OH.Perry is coming out soon, which means a large-scale, large-produced, plastic-ship, that can be adapted for RAN use will be available.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ChrisJH666 I AM WEAK! I AM WEAK! Came across the computer room in my local library and found myself in here! Sad or what? Still waiting for the flaming blood sucking solicitors to finalise the paperwork for the house sale so not out there yet! %@##@**%""##@!!!!!!!!!!!

Like you chris could'nt keep away, manage to con my son in law to let me use his system, told him that I would be unbearable if I didn't get my FSM Forum fix

Enjoying holiday - Now in Penrith, won second place in the Large Scale Fiqures in the ACTSMS comp last weekend.

Thanks for the link Rob,

Have had a look at Al's site and there is certainly some gear there I will be ordering.

Bob

Thanks for that J.S. Got your e-mail and will post the Pledge on Monday.

Luke, had a bit more of a squizz around and found a Charles F Adams DDG Class 1/350 (same as HMAS Perth) at White Ensign in resin. Looks pretty impressive but the cost is around AU$300 plus postage. My budget doesn't stretch that far yet but maybe one day!!! We can all dream can't we.

Well, I have pretty much finished my Mossie for the group build. A couple of coats of Pledge and then I will post a few pics! That leaves nothing on my bench so I am tossing up what to do next? Think I might make a start on that 1/32 Revell Tornado. Not much available in aftermarket ware for this one apart from a detailed cockpit set that will put me back about as much as I paid for the kit so this one will be OOB as well. Might also look at doing a second kit for the Aussie Group Modeller build - maybe a Huey or a Sea King.

Bob

Bob,

Have a look on this site www.armsmodelit.com.au they have a packet of 10 dropper things, which is what I use for transfering paint, or an eye dropper from the Chemist. I mix my paints in a medecine cup.
Al is in Brissie and he is very helpfull, to modellers.

Rob.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount G'Day J.S. I would give me eye teeth for a 1/350 scale model of the DDG HMAS Perth. Bob

I've heard a plastic-injected 1/350 O.H.Perry is coming out end of this year or early next. I forget who, but it cant be Panda cos they have announced enough future releases in 1/350 for the next 10yrs, so I guess (and I can check this later) it is Dragon.

Bob i use ladies stockings to filter the paint after i've thinned it,i usually make a 60/40 mix but it depends on how thick the paint is in the bottle.

As far as mixing is concerned i use a large syringe to get it out of the bottle and then i slowly push it out into my mixing cup.I use the clear plastic cups that you get with Mizone sports water,then i pour the thinned mix into another cup through the stocking,and then into the airbrush cup.
If your doing multiple colours have them all mixed and filtered before you start airbrushing.the most colours ive done at once is 4 on three different models.
One more thing when i rinse the airbrush between coats i use Tamiya x20a thinners not windex i guess im paranoid about having windex still in the airbrush when i paint the next colour.
After i finish painting for the day i pull the airbrush apart and give it a good clean with the windex and then i reassemble it and run some X20a through it.
I know it sounds complicated but theres nothing worse that having lumpy paint it just spoils your whole day.
[PS] I only exercise to get more Mizone cups, you see modelling is good for the mind and body.

J.S.

Thanks for the advice! What do you use to filter your paint and what method do you use to get it from bottle to colour cup?

Bob

You see Chris didn't Tweety say it you'll be back .

Your not wrong about thosesoliciterswe have just sold our house and the charge $300 just to write a bloody letter.

Bob i'm assuming that this will be your first go at airbrushing so Have fun
OOHHH one more thing don't forget to filter your paint.

G'Day J.S.

I would give me eye teeth for a 1/350 scale model of the DDG HMAS Perth.

No worries with the Pledge - wasn't any trouble - I bought a bottle for you when I was in the supermarket the other day. I'll post it as soon as I get your address.

Bob

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Raymount J.S. I have just updated my profile to include my e-mail address. Shoot me off an e-mail with your postal address on it and I will send you up a bottle of Pledge. Ships!!!.........now that's what I should be modelling. Spent 10 years in the Aussie Navy from 76 to 86. Maybe I'll try one of them as well - see how I like it! Bob

Okay Bob i'll send you an email,how do you want me to pay for it maybe you can send me via email your bank account details and i can deposit it in.
Thanks for going to the trouble on my account muchly appreciated

Yeah Aussie ships, the unavailability of ships like the Canberra in a decent scale 1/350
is FRUSTRATING
One of my favourites would be the AE11 but iv'e only seen it in 1/700 scale that would make it about as long as my middle finger;i personaly find that sacle for a sub ridiculous,1/125 would seem more realistic.sorry for raving but i like my ships big.
J.S.

Many thanks for your help again Rob. I am going to have my first test play with the airbrush this weekend. I'll let you know how I go!

Bob

Bob,

Windex Clear, not the blue one, or a 50/50 mix of metho and water, will clean your airbrush, after using Tamiya Acrylics, how often do you won't to strip it down is entirely up to you, if you do a tricolour tone on a model, general rinse between colour chages, then strip it down and clean.

Hope it helps
Rob.

I AM WEAK! I AM WEAK! Came across the computer room in my local library and found myself in here! Sad or what? Still waiting for the flaming blood sucking solicitors to finalise the paperwork for the house sale so not out there yet! %@##@**%""##@!!!!!!!!!!!

Here I am again folks!

What do you all use to clean your aibrushes after using Tamiya acrylics? Is it windex? Can someone please tell me the cleaning process in a nutshell - both at colour changes and after painting is over for the day. How often should I rip the whole kit and kaboodle apart? (Badger Anthem). I know I could probably get this info from the Airbrush section but I wanted to get the 'good oil' from the locals.

Many thanks,

Bob

J.S. I have just updated my profile to include my e-mail address. Shoot me off an e-mail with your postal address on it and I will send you up a bottle of Pledge.

Ships!!!.........now that's what I should be modelling. Spent 10 years in the Aussie Navy from 76 to 86. Maybe I'll try one of them as well - see how I like it!

Bob

Thanks Lobbie i'll do just that.

Bob no mate i can't find pledge at any store.
My soul must be split 3 ways mate cause i have a few ships up in the shed too,all big ones to like the 1/350 Bismark and Prince Of Wales the 1/350 USS Yorktown is another,plus Revells 1/72 Flower class Corvette and Type V11c U Boat.
Tanks i've got a Tiger,Panzer 4,Panzer 2,Flak panzer ,two allied tanks the Matilda mk11 and the Stuart Honey .
Aircraft are too numerous to name.

Tweety1 i'll put my order in now eh,let's see undercarriage is a must and the wheel wells.what the hell just do a full mosaic for me will ya mate.

C'mon guys, we were getting near the bottom of the first page with posts...can't have that can we!

J.S. Have you found that Pledge yet?

Rob, I am getting the urge to model armor again...am I wrong...or can the soul be split between aircraft and armor? I am so confused! And I guess that half a dozen schooners of VB does not clear the picture at all!

Bob

J.S.
The Russians used the Hind 24 in Afghanistan, it is in 48 scale by Revell

Tweety1
Your welcome

Rob.

j.s., yeah the Russians used the Hind in Afghanistan, and Chechnya, and aywhere else they wandered.

But it wasn't the A version, but a later model.
It's kinda like the A-10 Warthog of helicopters.

Lobbie, thanks for the pics I appreciate them.

Like I said before, it wont be until July that I'll order my Sabre.
Reason is, I go to Darwin for the Aussie Beach Volleyball titles then, and I'm working on squeezing in a visit to the Aviation Museum they have up there, so I can fill 2 memory card on the digital camera with Sabre pics!!!!!!!

I also plan to photograph as many details on all the other craft they have on site, and if it costs me a little extra $ to get inside these craft, then I'll be willing to spend it.

j.s., if all the above comes to fruition, I'll drop you a line and send a cd loaded with Sabre goodness

J.S.

With the alclad paint system, try the Tamiya enamel gloss or flat black as an undercoat on your model subject, then buff it with cotton wool.

I hope this helps a little
Rob.

Lobbie in your opinion what would be the best undercoats for using alclad.
I only want to do this once so i want to get it right.

Tweety1,

These two shots I found are of the CAC Sabre that is at Point Cook, I hope they help a little.

Rob.

G'Day All,

Just got word that Eagle Strike have available an Aeromaster decal set for Aussie Spitfires - Item Number - AMD48_666: Aussie Mk V Spitfires, Pt I . at US$9.50 - get in early or be disappointed!!!

Bob