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scratch 1/32 Horatio Phillips Multiplane WIP *Updated 8/22*

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  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: League City, Texas
Posted by sfcmac on Saturday, April 18, 2009 6:01 AM
Very ambitious project!  I cant wait to see how you get it all together! Should make for some gretat ideas!
  • Member since
    April 2009
Posted by multiplane on Friday, April 17, 2009 11:21 PM

Hello

I am a fan of Horatio Phillips' work. Best of luck with your project.

I hate to throw you a curve ball about what you're modelling, but the various drawings made of the 1893 multiplane are not wholly accurate. That includes the one in the Enzo Angelucci book.

Here is a contemporary photo of the multiplane:

Note the large wings positioned top-and-bottom of the multiplane stack. Below is an engraving done of the multiplane, this appeared in the Engineering journal for May 5th, 1893. At first appearance, it looks as though all of the wings are of uniform size, but the two larger wings are actually there, its just that they are hard to make out given the perspective. I suspect people have misinterpreted those two wings as just being part of the wooden framework that supports the multiplanes.

 

Also, at this URL, you'll find a 1/72nd (!) model of another Horatio Phillips' multiplane:
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal6/5201-5300/gal5289_HoratioPhilips_Stern/00.shtm

Cheers,
Paul 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 8:55 PM
Thanks for the interest and comments, New Hampshire!!! Hope to get some major work done tommorrow, since I've been plotting out through my own drawings and mathematics, how and where the main planks are gonna connect(with the support beams.)

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 8:00 PM

Hmmm, this should be rather interesting!  Don't see off the wall stuff like this very often, so should be a nice change of pace!

Brian

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 7:54 PM

tankerbuilder- Thanks for lookin' in on my build!! Not to mention thanks for tip about putting vinegar in with the water(never knew that), I gotta try it out some time.Cool [8D]

jeaton01- Thanks for checkin' out my build! Hmmm.....never knew ammonia has that effect on wood. I might try that out some time, but right now the woods bent perfectly, whew! So at least I don't have to worry about wood curving for now.Wink [;)]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 4:22 PM
Other methods of forming wood are steaming, and soaking in ammonia.  Ammonia works a bit better than water because it softens the cellulose the wood fibers are composed of.  Sometimes it is necessary to make the form with a bit more curve than wanted  for the final shape as a slight spring back happens with some woods.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 12:23 PM
HEY Philo !  the art of bending planks will ensure that it holds it,s shape . Unlike plastic ,wood doesn,t mind getting bent , It doesn,t like being bent when dry though . Yes, it would hold its shape from now on . Stability isn,t a problem as long as there isn,t too much torque . tankerbuilder
  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 12:15 PM
Hey!! I wanna see that when you are finished . I did a model of LEONARDO,S flyer long before the DA - VINCI files toy and working model came out . I think these old , old early flites of fancy will give all who see them in miniature an idea that not all inventions carry a 20th or 19th century label .   Can,t wait for more pics . If you are worried about using wood DON,T . The wood will work just fine . Make the wood is as fine a grain as you can get or use veneers .   You should put a little vinegar in the water and make sure that water is hot !!!!    tankerbuilder
  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, April 10, 2009 11:03 PM
Yep!Thanks for the explanation!
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, April 10, 2009 8:30 PM

 philo426 wrote:
Will the planks retain their shape after the wood dries out?And will it remain stable over the long haul?

Yes, the wood "planks" do retain their shape once their dry. Before I sumberged these two "planks" you see in the pic, I tested a scrap "plank" in water a few weeks ago. I curved that one with my hands just by applying pressure, which gave it a slight curve and it actually still retains it's curve perfectly. It's just as stable as any other wood, and it will retain it's stability. That is unless your not carfull and splash water on it, which can warp the board. However warping won't occur here, since the wood was all equally submerged. I hope this explains it to you clearly, philo426.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, April 10, 2009 6:42 PM
Will the planks retain their shape after the wood dries out?And will it remain stable over the long haul?
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, April 10, 2009 1:12 PM

Thanks for checkin' out my build, Huxy!!

And to answer your question, " how to ensure the jig gives the same angles on both pieces of wood?" The answer, find the the center of the board and hammer in a nail. Then take a second nail and hammer it in on the end of the base at a point where their will be a slight curve. Put the board in. Then figure out how curved the board has to be(by test bending) and hammer in a third nail, that gets the desirable curve. If the curve not to your liking simply remove the nails and re-start. Then for the other board, look at the board you just jiged and mirror the positions of the nails. That should get you curves that mirror each other. Hope this explained it.Smile [:)]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Kristiansund, Norway
Posted by Huxy on Friday, April 10, 2009 9:08 AM

oh sweet

 

That's awsome!

But drying in the same time as it was in the water? Hmm... I threw my jacket into a pit of water once.. I took it up just right away... It took itself 24 hours to dry...  Get your facts straight!! Laugh [(-D]

 

But really.. Awsome project!!  Wish I had you skills...

 

But how did you ensure the jig gives the same angels on both pieces of wood??

"Every War Starts And Ends With An Invasion".

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Thursday, April 9, 2009 2:46 PM

Thanks for droppin' in and for the welcome, Luftwoller and Daywalker!!!

Anyways, I had time on my hands today and the wood was soft enough to bend today. So......I made the jig to get the curvature in the two main "planks" of the frame. I will have to leave  the wood in the jig untill the wood dries, which is about the same time the wood was in the water, so about 24 hours. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Thursday, April 9, 2009 9:45 AM
 Luftwoller wrote:

Welcome to the 'Friendly side' btw LOL.

Sign - Ditto [#ditto] Big Smile [:D]

A very ambitious project, and one I have never heard of.  I look forward to your progress on this one. Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Thursday, April 9, 2009 9:28 AM

This should be interesting. Welcome to the 'Friendly side' btw LOL.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Thursday, April 9, 2009 9:24 AM
Thanks for the lookin' in and for the supportive comments, Borg R3-MC0 and 666Irish!!!Cool [8D]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Woodbine, MD
Posted by 666Irish on Thursday, April 9, 2009 3:56 AM
What a great project! I am really looking forward to seeing this one take shape!

She was only a whiskey maker, but he loved her still.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Thursday, April 9, 2009 1:17 AM
An impressive project. Don't forget to post in on the scratch build forum as wel, folks overthere probably would like to see it.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
scratch 1/32 Horatio Phillips Multiplane WIP *Updated 8/22*
Posted by mg.mikael on Wednesday, April 8, 2009 11:00 PM

I'm usually on the darkside, building armor, but the quirkiness of this aircraft was just callin' out to me. So long story short, I decided to start building it on a whim and now it's also an entry in the Prototype GB All Era's.  The official name of this primitive aircraft or the Venetian blind looking-thing, is the Horatio Phillips Steam-Powered Multiplane. Now you may be thinking who the heck is Horatio or what is a multiplane, so to better explain here's a quick history lesson.

The Horatio Phillips Steam-Powered Multiplane was built in 1893, by who else, Horatio Frederick Phillips. An early English avaiation pioneer, born in 1845 in Streatham, a suburb of London, England.  He designed a craft in 1893 with 50 slats (hence the name "multiplane"). Presumably, he was hoping all those planes would produce lift in abundance. The wing frame measured 22 feet long and only 1.5 inches wide, the machine was powered by a coal-fired steam engine that turned the propeller at 400 revolutions per minute. He constructed this large device for testing the effective lift of what he termed "sustainers" or in other words airfoils. As a test/prototype vehicle, it was not designed to be manned, but was used to test lift capabilities. Phillips has long since been forgotten to history, but his development of curved surfaces helped advanced the early days of applied aerodynamics. Oh and and for those wondering how far this aircraft flew....it was able to lift its own weight plus 72 pounds (a total of 402 pounds) some three feet at a speed of about 40 mph.

Okay, know that I explained that, I can get on with the thread and WIP. The pic above is one of the reference drawings I have and it best shows the aircraft out of all the pics I have. Which isn't many. For my main reference book I'm using The World Encyclopedia of Civil Aircraft by Enzo Angelucci, that's where the color drawing above came from. As for the rest of my info, it's off the web from random sites.

To help with the scratching, since it's my first ever scratch project, I created a little cheat sheet with the various main parts of the aircraft and what I plan to use for each part.

For the main frame I decided to use wood, pretty sure it's cedar. Not 100% sure, since I get alot of the wood from scraps from a nearby architectural wood molding place. How's that for being resourceful. The wood frame "planks" are cut to a size of 0.20 X 0.30 inches at 9.40 inches long(these numbers were scaled down from the original dimensions). However they are too straight and need a curve, so......I just today got around to putting them in the water to soak for a day, they need to be completley wet and soaked through so I can bend them to the correct curvature of the frame.

All comments, questions, and suggestions welcome!

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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